Urbancohort has started this painting thread and is keeping it wholly clear of apostrophes although it is all about his painting skills developing.

[urbancohort]

Ready for starting painting

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[Norm]

All I really know is:

2) the figures look better to my eye than the photos show.


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And that is what matters most. Digital photography can be unkind, especially as out kit and software tends to over sharpen pictures, white balance is seldom spot on and we end up looking at enlarged versons on our screens of things that are not intended to beviewed in that way.

I think you should be pretty pleased with your results.

I have been thinkingof late that I actually spend too much time painting all the detail on 10's / 12's and that I should take a more care-free approach to painting, to get the benefits of 'mass' and faster production that the scale brings.

[urbancohort]

I have been thinkingof late that I actually spend too much time painting all the detail on 10's / 12's and that I should take a more care-free approach to painting, to get the benefits of 'mass' and faster production that the scale brings.
[/quote]

I know what you mean! I read somewhere that at 300ms ( I think) all that would truly be distinguishable woukd be the coat. However, it has to be said, one of the things I like about the LofA era and 'lace wars' is the gorgeous uniforms of the period. It is part of the draw.

Of course, another issue accuracy wise is colour. Yes, all the British Army wore red coats but pre-industrial processes, how uniform could that be? Anything from light brown to almost white pink would seem to be arguable?


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[toxicpixie]

What Norm said, in triplicate

As I'm in the middle of some big jobs my "personal" stuff is getting very minimal treatment and is currently an experiment in speed over technique

[urbancohort]

A bad workman blames his tools, but I have noticed my brushes tend to get a bit frayed and that interferes with a crisp, clean paint job. I am using a feldherr paintbrush, anyone recommend a brand or suggest any way of dealing with the fraying please?

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[d_Guy]

urban,

I use Windsor & Newton Series 7 Sable brushes which are pricey but hold up really well. I rinse them out well then "point" them with my lips (I am too old to worry much about toxins :-) ) then store them with their protective point covers (little tubes). I use them just for the color blocking.  Old ratty brushes for everything else (washes, dry brushing, etc)

I clean them occasionally with this stuff which seems to help keep them like new.
Granted, my brushes are probably used only six to ten hours a week.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492297419&sr=8-4&keywords=The+Masters+Brush+Cleaner


Hope this helps.

[urbancohort]

It does, many thanks! Happy Easter! G

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[Ithoriel]

I buy lots of cheap brushes and the occasional expensive ones. Both are trashed in less than a month of a regular, painting every day, painting binge.

The main thing that extends the life of my brushes is my other passion ... MMORPGs.

If I'm not painting I'm not ruining brushes!!

[urbancohort]

Started on the grenadier company for a bit of diversion..

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[urbancohort]

Detailing still to come.

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[Techno]

Looking good.

Cheers - Phil

[Duke Speedy of Leighton]

Like, a lot!

[toxicpixie]

Thirded, looking crisp. How you finding the black undercoat - ok to pick up detail still?

Thirded on cheap brushes as well btw. The Works, Rymans etc are very handy

[Glorfindel]

These are very nice Grenadiers - you really don't have anything to worry about.

For what its worth, my own thoughts on this :

   a.   I have used black undercoat for years and really appreciate the effect it
   gives.   To maximise the impact, I tend to leave more black showing between
   colours than you have in the above examples.

   You can just about make this out in the two pics below below (the officer
   with white sleeves in the first and the closest pikeman in the second).





   b.   I have recently experimented with a different effect for figures which
   mainly have grey coats (War of the Spanish Succession era).   Undercoat in
   white and then wash with Army Painter Quickshade 'Dark Tone'.  This adds
   great definition to the figure, something that can be an issue with black u/c.
   It also ensures the colours are brighter and finally, every separate part of the
   figure is 'black lined' (or dark grey lined).   Not a perfect example below but
   you get the idea :



   c.   Quality of brushes is very important - I normally just use one brush for
   nearly everything until it dies - I then go into a period of brush mourning (!)
   until I manage to find an alternative;

   d.   I mount each figure individually on an old paintpot rather than in groups.   
   This allows better access;

   e.   Painting is a very personal exercise.   If I am going to complete an army,
   I need the completed figures to provide continued inspiration.   I therefore
   take a bit more time so that they are as good as I can make them.   If I didn't
   do this and wasn't happy with the results, I might lose that inspiration to continue.

   f.   Although I am happy with the standard I have reached, I look at some of the
   painted figures on this forum and despair of achieving the same result.   There are
   some really talented people here;

   g.   As mentioned above, close ups can be very unkind.   I am really happy with
   the Pike & Shot Regiment above until I look at the close up pics...


Hope this helps.


Phil

[d_Guy]

I like them also, Urban. The grenadiers of Kirke's. Very recognizable. They will look VERY good on a gametable.

As Glorfindel has said, there are some painters on this board that turn out amazing results. We had a speculation a while back that these folks actually paint 28mm then use a transmogrifier to shrink to 10mm! How they exactly match the Pendraken sculpts is a mystery.

Several have posted about how they do it, however,  and it boils down to great patience, much practice and a high personal standard of excellence. It's like playing a musical instrument in many ways. I personally think that a certain amount of innate talent is probably useful, also.

I generally use a thin burnt umber (brushed on) followed with a very thin black wash to help with detail. (Covenanters get medium grey first).
I have used black but can't see details well enough. White, then black is also good but contrary to all conventional wisdom about bright colors - I like dull! Will never win a painting contest but I like the look and that's what this is all really about. I play solo, however, so that may leave me unmotivated to impress.  I also pay more talented people to paint at least a third of my figures. 

I actually know very little about this hobby (pursuit - lifestyle - etc) but long winded - self-absorbed - rambling responses is what I do!

Be happy in your work!

d_guy