Painting 10mm

Started by Pruneau, 12 March 2010, 02:49:43 PM

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Pruneau

12 March 2010, 02:49:43 PM Last Edit: 12 March 2010, 02:55:12 PM by Pruneau
Just to get this subforum going, here's a few pics of the units I painted recently.  I am new to this, and hoping that others with more experience can suggest some workflow improvement.  
Here's the units glued on a woody with pritt reusable glue dots.
http://picasaweb.google.com/113516912199612928109/10MmHOTT#5447760890896622466

I then paint quickly, using light colours and always working in series.  After that, I just liberally brush on dark brown wash.  I used to use GW, but I like the new Vallejo a lot, and the dark brown suits me fine.

Here are some results:
http://picasaweb.google.com/113516912199612928109/10MmHOTT#5447760905015662354

One question I have: will army painter dip coating working on a tiny scale like 10mm?  Will it save a lot of time?
Boardgames: MMP ACW, ASL ᴥ BKC & SSOM - WW2 (In development) ᴥ Flying Lead - Sci-Fi: Shocktroops, Pulp, Spugs ᴥ WH - Greenskins, Dwarfs

http://hiording.blogspot.com - http://runequestfun.blogspot.com - http://secondsquadonme.blogspot.com

ʎɐqə ɯoɹɟ pɹɐoqʎəʞ ɐ ʎnq ı əɯıʇ ʇsɐl əɥʇ sı sıɥʇ

nikharwood

12 March 2010, 07:09:05 PM #1 Last Edit: 12 March 2010, 08:17:33 PM by Megamatman
Thanks for kicking us off Prudeau!

I've got a couple of 'standard' approaches to 10mm that I've developed over the years - they're on my wiki site & are downloadable as PDFs:

http://nikharwood.pbworks.com/10mm+Painting+

In relation to The Army Painter dip - I've not used it at all but my understanding is that it works better if you paint it on [ie not actually] dip - let it dry for a while & then use a brush to alleviate over-pooling; I've seen some great results from others [Piers Brand, Phil Hendry] in 28mm...I have a sneaky suspicion that it might be a bit thick for 10s - although of course you could thin it...

My painting guide will give you a 'recipe' for "Magic Wash" that works well in 10mm. The new GW ink washes are OK too - but I thin them down a bit: Devlan Mud is the pick of these for me.

nikharwood

Hmm - it's not liking my link...you'll need to manually add-in the + sign at the end...or go to my home page here: http://nikharwood.pbworks.com/ & look in the sidebar to the right for the "10mm painting" section...

Actually, it's probably about time I wrote some more guides...

Megamatman

Quote from: nikharwood on 12 March 2010, 07:11:11 PM
Hmm - it's not liking my link...you'll need to manually add-in the + sign at the end...or go to my home page here: http://nikharwood.pbworks.com/ & look in the sidebar to the right for the "10mm painting" section...

Actually, it's probably about time I wrote some more guides...

Link should be fixed now.

I used:
[url=http://nikharwood.pbworks.com/10mm+Painting+]http://nikharwood.pbworks.com/10mm+Painting+[/url]
Megamatman

Pruneau

12 March 2010, 08:23:41 PM #4 Last Edit: 12 March 2010, 08:37:01 PM by Pruneau
Excellent, thanks for the tips, just read that.  I'm just gonna go and prep a few units the way you explain and see what suits me best.  I like painting up from dark colors, but I figured with such a small scale you need light colors foremost.  Still, gonna give it a try.

When thinning washes, what do you use for thinning?  Flow improver + water?
Boardgames: MMP ACW, ASL ᴥ BKC & SSOM - WW2 (In development) ᴥ Flying Lead - Sci-Fi: Shocktroops, Pulp, Spugs ᴥ WH - Greenskins, Dwarfs

http://hiording.blogspot.com - http://runequestfun.blogspot.com - http://secondsquadonme.blogspot.com

ʎɐqə ɯoɹɟ pɹɐoqʎəʞ ɐ ʎnq ı əɯıʇ ʇsɐl əɥʇ sı sıɥʇ

Luddite

I use water with GW Devlan Mud (the new super-paint!  I use it on everything).

One thing i do find though is that the brush used for washing has to be TOTALLY clean or i get an annoying 'grey' deposit in the recesses...
http://www.durhamwargames.co.uk/
http://luddite1811.blogspot.co.uk/

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nikharwood

QuoteI use water with GW Devlan Mud (the new super-paint!  I use it on everything).

Yep - it's not called godwash for nothing  ;) water is fine to thin GW & Vallejo inks

If I want a "flow improver" I'll either add a drop of Klear [floor polish] or washing-up liquid...it's *much* cheaper than commercial stuff...

If I want a "flow prohibitor(?)" - ie to make sure stuff sinks & stays - I'll add a drop of PVA

Mad fecking scientist, me  8)

nikharwood

Oh - and thanks for fixing the link Mat  :)

goat major

Quote from: Pruneau on 12 March 2010, 08:23:41 PM
Excellent, thanks for the tips, just read that.  I'm just gonna go and prep a few units the way you explain and see what suits me best.  I like painting up from dark colors, but I figured with such a small scale you need light colors foremost.  Still, gonna give it a try.

When thinning washes, what do you use for thinning?  Flow improver + water?

I generally tend to use variations on the foundy/3 colour system on my larger figures. On 10mm I use similar but usually just two colours - the darkest and the lightest (i think you need a strong contrast at this scale). I use washes in specific areas - usually on the flesh basecoat or on 'fur' or similar. I find the GW washes to be quite lovely and very subtle. While i'm half way through i'm never happy with the look - but once completed it all seems to work out ok
My blog: https://goatmajor.org.uk/
My twitting: http://twitter.com/goatmajor

2014 Painting Competition - Winner!

NolaChris6

Your figs look great Pruneau!
I use black ink wash rather than brown and get a good result.

the dip method on 10mm always looks to "thick" to me

I try to paint for overall unit effect rather than for individual fig...
here are some of my Medieval German City States pics:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NorthAmericanFoG/photos/album/1041911943/pic/2135128365/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

in the NorthAmerican FOG yahoo group pics file
there are also some (other manufacturer's) Gauls in that file
I'll try to find the original pics and post them.

Chris the Tall / NOLA Chris 6


Captain Verbeek

I wrote a tutorial on introductory painting of 10mm figs on my blog that was picked up by Dadi&Piambo magazine.  It is a quick method to get table-top results.  Only thing is the figs are OG not pendraken sorry.  I have converted to Pendraken now. 

http://cavenderia.blogspot.com/2008/12/how-i-paint-10mm.html

check it out.
Non Cadmus

Aart Brouwer

Nice tutorial, Capt'n. But the Bourbonnais elsewhere on your site really take the biscuit; they are extremely well done, with panache and a great sense of colour and wear and movement. To me they are another tutorial all by themselves.

Cheers,
Aart
Sadly no longer with us - RIP (1958-2013)

"No, I do not have Orcs, Riders of Rohan, Dark Elves, Skaven, Kroot Mercenaries Battle Tech, HeroClix, Gangs of Mega-City One or many-horned f****** genetic-mechanoid arse-faced pigmen from the Purple Pustule of Tharg T bloody M." (Harry Pearson, Achtung Schweinehund!)

Fenton

I have tried using AP on 10mm figures just to see what happens and to be honest it is just to thick to get into the finer detail ..I tried thining it and it worked a little better but not the results I was hoping for...Personally I find an enamel black wash works the best for 10 and if I may mention it 6 and 3mm as well


Nice pics by the way
If I were creating Pendraken I wouldn't mess about with Romans and  Mongols  I would have started with Centurions , eight o'clock, Day One!

Pruneau

Good Stuff, following.
Boardgames: MMP ACW, ASL ᴥ BKC & SSOM - WW2 (In development) ᴥ Flying Lead - Sci-Fi: Shocktroops, Pulp, Spugs ᴥ WH - Greenskins, Dwarfs

http://hiording.blogspot.com - http://runequestfun.blogspot.com - http://secondsquadonme.blogspot.com

ʎɐqə ɯoɹɟ pɹɐoqʎəʞ ɐ ʎnq ı əɯıʇ ʇsɐl əɥʇ sı sıɥʇ