Sculpting Crusaders

[TinyTerrain]

Hi,

Having recently recieved Techno's 10mm Warrior Bishop sculpt, and knowing he is currently sculpting 2 Crusaders attacking with Axes for me, my mind has wandered back towards having another crack at sculpting in 10mm. As my first attempt at a 10mm sculpt was passable (my Medieval Brigand pushing my battering ram) I thought I would try something a little more dynamic and have a go at a Crusader attacking with a sword.

I knocked this up in a couple of hours this morning.



Its really difficult to get a decent photo but essentailly he has a ragged flowing surcoat over chainmail and is steppign forward and lunging with a sword in his right hand. He has a shield on his back and closed helmet.  As you can see I still have the sword to make (thats why Ive put a white line in so you can see the position in relation to his lunge), and the detail is not within a country mile of what Techno or Clib can produce in 10mm, but I am still pretty happy given this is only my second attempt at a 10mm green.  More Crusdaders to come over the ent few weeks.

All comments very welcome, but be kind.........

By the way Techno/Clib, how the hell do I make a sword please?

Cheers,

Craig
Tiny Terrain Models

[Hertsblue]

Not quite happy about the shield. If he were using a sword wouldn't he be also using the shield? On the other hand, if he were using a pole-weapon he might well sling the shield on his back so he could use both hands.

Otherwise, I like it a lot. 

[fred.]

That looks good to me - and doubly so if its only your second go.

I would suggest that the head should be looking forwards at a slightly upwards angle (basically looking where he is stabbing).

[Techno]

Hi Craig.

If I'd been making a wee chap with a sword in the pose you've done.......

I'd have made one of the 'arms' much too long and then used the 'extra' 'fuse' wire as a former for the sword......NOT do the sword as an add on later, as it would be a bit too fragile when it went into a mould.
So...

1)....Ultra fine skin of putty over the wire that's to become the sword.
2)....Once that's set nicely...My own personal preference is a mix of green stuff and Magic Sculp over the green stuff 'former'......I wouldn't worry too much at this stage about making it look like a 'blobby club'........Let it set FULLY !
3) Now with a new scalpel and some very fine glass/sand paper, I'd scape the 'club' away slowly until I'd formed a decent sword shape.
(To be honest...This wouldn't take me long, as I've used this method umpteen times....A few minutes, as I've had the practice doing it. )


BUT.... The way you've done it....I'd suggest something along these lines.
0.5 mm brass wire.....Flatten it with a pin hammer and something like a desk vise/vice....Make it a good few mm too long though.
Shape the sword with a Dremmel's grinder and glass paper.
Drill into the the body of the model in the appropriate place, around the hands, and push the back end (Handle) of the sword into the hole and fix in place with putty.
Be prepared to 'eff' about with the length of the sword by cutting 'the handle' marginally shorter, again and again, until it looks 'right'

Hope that helps.....and makes some sort of sense !!
If you lived next door, I could show you what I mean SO much more easily !!

Cheers - Phil.

PS.....Good job that man !!

[TinyTerrain]

Hertsblue, great feedback, shield has been moved on to his left arm.

Fred, I can see what you mean about the head but I am not going to easily shift it, I ll just ha've to have a crusader who is a bit on the shy side ;-)

Techno, I thought you might say something like the former, I'll remember next time! As this one won't be moulded its fine I'll do a make do and mend job and bolt it on!

Thanks for all the input?

Craig

[Steve J]

Very good Craig. I've never been able to sculpt, just doing conversions really. Maybe I should give it a go to see if things have changed... .

[get2grips]

Hi Craig,

Is that ordinary green stuff you're using?

If so, how do you model without it going off?  Is it just down to speed?

Any suggestions Phil?

Nice job though,

Gareth

[Techno]

Hi Craig,
If so, how do you model without it going off?  Is it just down to speed?
Any suggestions Phil?
Gareth

Hi Gareth.

To a certain extent it's down to speed.....But if you have to leave a model for a short while, you can slow the curing time by either putting in the fridge....Or if it needs to be left longer......overnight, for example.....The freezer ! (Honestly... Though I haven't done this for a long time now.)
If it's been in the freezer though, you'll need to let it 'thaw'....and wait for any condensation to go.
Hope that helps !
Cheers - Phil.

[get2grips]

Hi Gareth.

To a certain extent it's down to speed.....But if you have to leave a model for a short while, you can slow the curing time by either putting in the fridge....Or if it needs to be left longer......overnight, for example.....The freezer ! (Honestly... Though I haven't done this for a long time now.)
If it's been in the freezer though, you'll need to let it 'thaw'....and wait for any condensation to go.
Hope that helps !
Cheers - Phil.

Thanks Phil

[Techno]

 

[Ithoriel]

I like it!

As to the pose, if I were using him in a diorama I'd have him ducking under an enemies swing while jabbing at that enemy in an effort to either incapacitate him or, at least, drive him back. A decade or so of fencing in my teens and twenties suggests that not blocking an incoming blow with your head beats seeing where you're aiming

[jchaos79]

It's seems his in a melee combat, fencing and attacking, I like it too much!

[Duke Speedy of Leighton]