Non-Pendraken Board Info!

Started by Leon, 12 February 2013, 03:23:22 PM

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Norm

I am working on some Kallistra (12mm) Anglo-Saxon General Fyrd (coerls) and  have become really frustrated by by wash. I am going for muted earth tones as a palette.

For my first wash, I used Vallejo Dark Grey wash watered down with water and medium to 1 ink to 3 water / medium. This is a very pigmented was and I feel at this mix, is still too strong for me.

Firstly I primed in brown special metal primer, then heavily applied the wash, once dry I block painted, but the I feel th paint picked up the was and became dirty ...... so re highlight every thing and then wash thinly - figures were just too dark and drab for little fellows.

So re highlight again, but things looked a bit harsh, so calmed down with a wash of GW Sepia wash mixed 50/50 with water/medium, but I still feel the figures are looking a bit drab. They may 'lift' with basing, but I am unhappy at the moment with my final wash mix and need to experiment further. It may be that the sepia was is OK and that I just need to start out with brighter colours on the figure.

paulr

Getting the balance right with washes is tricky, particularly when going for muted colours :-\

You definitely need to go slightly brighter / lighter with your colours and have to make sure the wash and the colours are completely dry
I tend to leave at least 12 hours between painting / washing

I hope you find something you are happy with
Lord Lensman of Wellington
2018 Painting Competition - Runner-Up!
2022 Painting Competition - Runner-Up!

Steve J

I find that after block colours, as wash with GW Devlin Mud works well. Depending upon the colours, I'll either leave it neat, which works well for sandy colours, or dilute it 50% with water for say blues and greens. I leave it to dry overnight and then highlight any areas I think need doing. Hope this helps Norm.
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2017 Paint-Off - 2 x Winner!

Norm

Thanks Paul / Steve, on the next batch, I am not going to lay ink down until the end of the process. I have binned my Vallejo Dark Grey, it is so richly pigmented that I can't see it working with my style.

kipt


Fenton

I use the same method for 10mm as I do for 6. Prime grey and thin black wash to bring out detail. Block in colours then wash with W&N nut brown (again quite thin) and sometimes I add a highlight especially on anything that's meant to be white

I find a very diluted future wash works well on 10mm also

I agree with Paul in allowing the original base colours to dry properly
If I were creating Pendraken I wouldn't mess about with Romans and  Mongols  I would have started with Centurions , eight o'clock, Day One!

Norm

Kipt - thanks, a couple of years ago, those mini dioramas were highlighted in a military modelling magazine. Beautiful work.

Fenton are you adding your W&N ink to the Future wash? or are you putting the pure Future on first to seal it before washing with ink?

At the moment I have a mix of a third of each ...... Future, Water and W&N Peat Brown.

Fenton

I do both. For the future wash I only use W&N black ink. For some reason I cant  get the Nut brown to work properly in the future clear, its just too transparent so I normally just put the nut brown ink on diluted with water straight on to  the figure after painting . Its been a while since I tried the nut brown with the future wash so maybe worth another go

Like you in a coffee jar I mix equal parts water and future and about 3/4 of a bottle of black ink. Maybe I just need more brown to make that colour  work properly
If I were creating Pendraken I wouldn't mess about with Romans and  Mongols  I would have started with Centurions , eight o'clock, Day One!

Norm

Thanks, I find the brown alone a problem and reinforce it with a tad of darker ink. There must be a balance at some point, but I find with brown and future that the effect is either too weak, or I go too far the other way and get a muddy figure. The search goes on!

Leman

I read a couple of years back that a coat of satin varnish before applying magic wash helps to keep the wash in the creases. I also use peat brown in most of my magic wash mixes and using this method produces a nice subtle effect.
The artist formerly known as Dour Puritan!

Not Drowning, Waving

To avoid tedium couple of dry brush highlights. Come to think of it just do that. All good.

Not Drowning, Waving

So perhaps the post was intended for another thread.
Could be a 'don't give the remote to grandpa' moment. And here was I thinking the premature aging thing only happened to others...

kipt

Anyone know how the Blaze Away 10mm ACW from Lancashire Games fits scale wise with the Pendraken range?

Westmarcher

Quote from: kipt on 17 April 2021, 06:14:34 PM
Anyone know how the Blaze Away 10mm ACW from Lancashire Games fits scale wise with the Pendraken range?

http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=377274
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

Techno II

I'd love to know what the 'flopped' grid, behind the wee men is supposed to show.

It's a very good comparison, between ranges, though.

Cheers - Phil. :)