Modding with Fimo?

[19th century octopus]

I was just wondering if anyone has any experience with using Fimo to model extra details on Pendraken figures. I found an old thread that said Pendraken metal melts at ~180°c (absolute min), and Fimo cooks at under 130°c, so I'm not too worried about melting, but has anyone tried this before and had any issues with it? If the figures are likely to deform or something I'd rather know before I put a few hours into it  .

If no-one has any experience, I'll probably post before and after shots, as well as comments for people in the future.
If lots of people have experience, I'll probably post before and after shots, because where else is there a community of needs who will appreciate it 

[fred.]

A couple of suggestions - cook a figure or two first just to confirm melting points. 

Will Fimo hold fine enough detail for this? Green stuff (or other modelling putties) tend to be used for figures. 

I tend to see Fimo used for larger pieces. 

I've not really done any of this, but am interested in the process so have read a fair bit on it when it is available. 

[19th century octopus]

A couple of suggestions - cook a figure or two first just to confirm melting points.

I'm more concerned about how the two will interact. I want to convert some sci-fi infantry to flamethrowers, so I might mould the Fimo for one of the figures I have multiple sculpts of, so worst case scenario I stick the Fimo onto one of the other figures.

Will Fimo hold fine enough detail for this? Green stuff (or other modelling putties) tend to be used for figures.

I tend to see Fimo used for larger pieces.

It should work, but again, experimentation. There was a thread on the forum a while back that talked about using Fimo to model figures, and they said it's main issue was it's heat tolerance (ironically) so it requires a more expensive process or something like that, which would imply that for one-off figures that aren't going to be moulded Fimo works fine.
Fingers crossed all the same though.

I've not really done any of this, but am interested in the process so have read a fair bit on it when it is available.

Same here! Here's to hoping the materials and my dexterity will suffice for some good results 

Hopefully I'll have an update soon enough.

[Techno 3]

I've only experimented with Fimo...and that was MANY years ago.

It was also an experiment in making a complete model, rather than doing any converting.

If memory serves me correctly (HAH!!) once cooked SMALL pieces of Fimo are somewhat brittle and might not take very kindly to being handled on the tabletop.

I'm pretty sure Anthony Barton (?) of AB miniatures makes a lot of, or even all, of his 20mm figures from FIMO.
I also remember Nick Bibby doing all the detail work on his figures with Fimo when I was at GW.
Nick was rather allergic to greenstuff !

He'd do a very simple core of a model with wire and Green stuff while wearing disposable gloves...THEN do the detail work with Fimo.

Like Forbes says...have an experiment !!😀

Cheers - Phil.

[fred.]

If you are doing multiple flamethrowers (for example) have a look at the reusable press moulds - its a kind of clear putty that you heat in water, to soften, press the part into, then allow to cool. Remove the part. Then you have a mould you can use for multiple items. 

The mould can then be re-heated in water for use again. 

[Orcs]

If you are doing multiple flamethrowers (for example) have a look at the reusable press moulds - its a kind of clear putty that you heat in water, to soften, press the part into, then allow to cool. Remove the part. Then you have a mould you can use for multiple items.

The mould can then be re-heated in water for use again.

I have used this quite successfully to make extra bits for 1/72 scale models. Particularly Plastic Soldier Company stuff where you have almost enough spares to make another model.

[19th century octopus]

That's actually really good to know fred.. For the figures I'm doing, I'm only doing 4 or 6 of them, most of which are slightly different molds. Thus I'll probably not use it, but I'll definitely bear it in mind for future projects.

[petedavies]

Hi Orcs,

I am very interested to hear more about your method of casting - I have been looking thoughtfully at all the extra bits on various PSC sprues and thinking I should do something with them. I was considering some fairly crude approximations out of plastic card but your way seems more promising!

Cheers,
Pete

[Big Insect]

Somebody ... can I remember who ... not a chance ... used to make 6mm muzzle-blasts and flames (for a flamethrower) in metal.
They were to upgrade GW Epic 40k models, so you might find them on eBay or Etsy. I bought a load (came in pacts of 20, many years ago) but have used them all up.
Not really much help, I know, but I suspect that you'll find some dude somewhere online selling something like that to the Epic 40k crew.

[John Cook]

FIMO is a clay based putty.  I wouldn't consider it for conversions or additions to 10mm figures.  I used to use ProCreate but that isn't available any more so it has to be Green Stuff now.  It can be easily shaped and dries hard, rather like a hard plastic.   For additions and conversions to 10mm figures you need something that is sticky enough to adhere to small metal castings and FIMO won't do that esasily.  FIMO also needs baking and is brittle when done.  Milliput is similarly hard to get to adhere but at least is cures without baking.  Green Stuff is my advice.  Get some silicon shapers too.   

[19th century octopus]

In response to John Cook, I personally haven't found Fimo to be overly brittle (not that I've subjected it to any massive forces) and the figure I have converted hasn't had any issues with the detatchment of the Fimo parts.

Altogether the process was painless and easy enough. The one main thing is multiple firings can be helpful, which isn't terribly energy efficient unless you're cooking multiple pieces.

I took before and after pics, but they (thankfully) look identical so I won't post them seperately. I can't figure out how to get pictures from Facebook onto the forum from my phone, so I've linked the post about it below;
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1CCNsheWFt/

[John Cook]

In response to John Cook,..................[/url]

I got the impression from your OP that you hadn't used FIMO yet and wanted advice.  All I can say that having used FIMO, Milliput, ProCreate and Green Stuff, I wouldn't bother with FIMO for detailing 10mm figures.  The people who make and convert figures for Pendraken all use ProCreate or Green Stuff, simply because it is much easier to use, which must tell you something.  I see no advantage to FIMO at all.