Thank you John, that's very helpful. I've just started SCW in 10mm hence the questions I've posted elsewhere. For the REI units in Spain were there any practical differences in uniform from that in the WW2 range?
Last post by Big Insect - Yesterday at 08:05:46 PM
I've had a good hard look at it previously and cannot deduce how (or if) a points formula works in Warband. It all looks a bit random - the Spells in particular see to defy all logic ... if you can apply logic to spells
Light boxes are good - give a nice even level of light - you need to pick a size for the amount of things your are photographing.
I'd avoid flash - it will tend to overpower due to proximity to the figures
The skateboard ramp to avoid the join between the background and table, can be easily created with a piece of paper bent at a slight angle. Also with miniatures you can put terrain behind them to hide this.
A white background can confuse the camera's auto settings - it will tend to see too much light and therefore make the figures too dark.
You can print out (or buy) graduated backgrounds which can be the skateboard ramp - then you get the no background join and the less harsh background colour.
As Fred says, lighting it the key thing for any miniature photography. We've got a basic light box from Amazon and I play around with the camera settings depending on what I'm photo'ing.
- For blackwashed figures I find it better to use custom settings, so I alter the white balance and then turn up the exposure to a suitable level. - For painted figures I've found the camera's Auto settings to be pretty good.
For both options you'll want your Macro setting turned on. And I still have to do a bit of work in Photoshop with them afterwards, usually a bit of brightness and sometimes a bit of colour tweaking to make them pop.
Also, don't get too close to the figures either. The image quality on most modern cameras/phones means that you can photo from 30cm-40cm away and your image shouldn't suffer from any depth issues and things being out of focus.