In an ideal world, the whole wargaming community would be sat chucking dice at tables full of 10mm goodness, but of course we all like a bit of variety in our lives! So if you're working on something different, feel free to pop it in this board for everyone to look at.
A note though, whilst we all like looking at pics and WIP's, this isn't an advertising site, so anything which is deemed to be a bit 'spammy' will be deleted by the Admin team.
8)
you should get a job with the UN ;)
A sensible and level headed approach Leon. Thank you.
Now EVERYONE can see all the other C**P I'm painting...
Lemmey if your painting is anything like mine its not something that you want ANYONE else to see. 10mm I can just about get looking respectable if you squint at it from 3 feet away, "yeah its big and green, must be a Russian tank" kinda detail.
At the moment it would be the seventeen buildings I did for a mate and the repaint after the paint cracked and lifted! :'(
OUCH!!!
I can lend you a scraper.
Think these might get put through the dishwasher before I start again...
Quote from: GordonY on 12 February 2013, 08:51:45 PM
Lemmey if your painting is anything like mine its not something that you want ANYONE else to see. 10mm I can just about get looking respectable if you squint at it from 3 feet away, "yeah its big and green, must be a Russian tank" kinda detail.
You can still identify your stuff as tanks :o :o :o
You are my new hero!
:D ;D =O
Thats alright Will, i'll distract them with my 15mm 1690 FOGR League of Ausburg French... :) Inking heaven here I come...
Nice one Nigel! ;D
Quote from: mad lemmey on 12 February 2013, 09:21:15 PM
Think these might get put through the dishwasher before I start again...
Does resin survive the dishwasher then? The Dystopian wars stuff has some very stromh release agant on it and its a complete B*gger to get it off so the paint sticks
My wife has a painting project for me - 1:1 scale Dining Room and Hallway (It turns out unlike acrylics, emulsion has a low constitution and gets 'tired' after 3 years or so. Our stuff must feel like it's finished a triathlon...)
AH well, commiserations Hussar. :(
My wife only works one day a week so she does all the house painting which, to be quite frank, I bloody hate! >:(
Quote from: Last Hussar on 31 March 2015, 02:20:49 AM
My wife has a painting project for me - 1:1 scale Dining Room and Hallway (It turns out unlike acrylics, emulsion has a low constitution and gets 'tired' after 3 years or so. Our stuff must feel like it's finished a triathlon...)
You should try a brush larger than '000' size to speed up the process.
I'd talk her into throwing up sand and PVA texture, then it would be pretty fun dry brushing the house!
I am working on some Kallistra (12mm) Anglo-Saxon General Fyrd (coerls) and have become really frustrated by by wash. I am going for muted earth tones as a palette.
For my first wash, I used Vallejo Dark Grey wash watered down with water and medium to 1 ink to 3 water / medium. This is a very pigmented was and I feel at this mix, is still too strong for me.
Firstly I primed in brown special metal primer, then heavily applied the wash, once dry I block painted, but the I feel th paint picked up the was and became dirty ...... so re highlight every thing and then wash thinly - figures were just too dark and drab for little fellows.
So re highlight again, but things looked a bit harsh, so calmed down with a wash of GW Sepia wash mixed 50/50 with water/medium, but I still feel the figures are looking a bit drab. They may 'lift' with basing, but I am unhappy at the moment with my final wash mix and need to experiment further. It may be that the sepia was is OK and that I just need to start out with brighter colours on the figure.
Getting the balance right with washes is tricky, particularly when going for muted colours :-\
You definitely need to go slightly brighter / lighter with your colours and have to make sure the wash and the colours are completely dry
I tend to leave at least 12 hours between painting / washing
I hope you find something you are happy with
I find that after block colours, as wash with GW Devlin Mud works well. Depending upon the colours, I'll either leave it neat, which works well for sandy colours, or dilute it 50% with water for say blues and greens. I leave it to dry overnight and then highlight any areas I think need doing. Hope this helps Norm.
Thanks Paul / Steve, on the next batch, I am not going to lay ink down until the end of the process. I have binned my Vallejo Dark Grey, it is so richly pigmented that I can't see it working with my style.
Here is a site that is interesting.
https://andybelseymodels.wixsite.com/mysite/1-285-ww1-models
I use the same method for 10mm as I do for 6. Prime grey and thin black wash to bring out detail. Block in colours then wash with W&N nut brown (again quite thin) and sometimes I add a highlight especially on anything that's meant to be white
I find a very diluted future wash works well on 10mm also
I agree with Paul in allowing the original base colours to dry properly
Kipt - thanks, a couple of years ago, those mini dioramas were highlighted in a military modelling magazine. Beautiful work.
Fenton are you adding your W&N ink to the Future wash? or are you putting the pure Future on first to seal it before washing with ink?
At the moment I have a mix of a third of each ...... Future, Water and W&N Peat Brown.
I do both. For the future wash I only use W&N black ink. For some reason I cant get the Nut brown to work properly in the future clear, its just too transparent so I normally just put the nut brown ink on diluted with water straight on to the figure after painting . Its been a while since I tried the nut brown with the future wash so maybe worth another go
Like you in a coffee jar I mix equal parts water and future and about 3/4 of a bottle of black ink. Maybe I just need more brown to make that colour work properly
Thanks, I find the brown alone a problem and reinforce it with a tad of darker ink. There must be a balance at some point, but I find with brown and future that the effect is either too weak, or I go too far the other way and get a muddy figure. The search goes on!
I read a couple of years back that a coat of satin varnish before applying magic wash helps to keep the wash in the creases. I also use peat brown in most of my magic wash mixes and using this method produces a nice subtle effect.
To avoid tedium couple of dry brush highlights. Come to think of it just do that. All good.
So perhaps the post was intended for another thread.
Could be a 'don't give the remote to grandpa' moment. And here was I thinking the premature aging thing only happened to others...
Anyone know how the Blaze Away 10mm ACW from Lancashire Games fits scale wise with the Pendraken range?
Quote from: kipt on 17 April 2021, 06:14:34 PM
Anyone know how the Blaze Away 10mm ACW from Lancashire Games fits scale wise with the Pendraken range?
http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=377274 (http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=377274)
I'd love to know what the 'flopped' grid, behind the wee men is supposed to show.
It's a very good comparison, between ranges, though.
Cheers - Phil. :)
Thanks, I have seen that but forgot they had the Blaze Away. Bit large.
Quote from: Techno II on 17 April 2021, 06:43:24 PM
I'd love to know what the 'flopped' grid, behind the wee men is supposed to show.
I think it's an imperial grid so the red line just above the figure's heads is a half-inch line? That'd be 12.7mm so would work out about right looking at the various ranges there.