Hi All, How are you all doing ?
Can anyone please tell me what is the right wash for the creases in clothing / uniforms ? Ive never tried a wash before but want to give it ago but not sure what wash to use.
any help would be great,
Paul .
Personally I used army painters strong or dark tone shade from the bottle,(not the dipping meyhod) but I also use vallejo sepia tone quite regularly
ok mate thats great, will that be ok for say british AWI uniforms cos they have white trousers ?
Magic Wash :
50% Future Wax
50% Water
dump in a bottle of dark brown ink
you're sorted
Well on white trousers you'd do no worse than getting a grey wash from vallejo, but i often use the dark tone on white as it's essentially a very dark grey colour.. it's personal preference and trial and error I'm afraid! It'd be interesting to hear what others have to say though so don't take my word as gospel!
Didn't Rembrandt van Rijn paint something called The Right Wash?
Quote from: GordonY on 06 May 2014, 10:31:25 AM
Magic Wash :
50% Future Wax
50% Water
dump in a bottle of dark brown ink
you're sorted
Proportions of ink to the rest would seem a fit subject for inquiry?
so do you use a red wash for a redcoat and grey wash for the trousers ? is that how it works ?
Quote from: FierceKitty on 06 May 2014, 10:37:31 AM
Didn't Rembrandt van Rijn paint something called The Right Wash?
Ouch!
Then there's the popular name for the 42nd Highlanders too.
When trying a wash for the first time, just do 1 figure and let it properly dry, as the results can be devastating.
If you paint in acrylic, the acrylic paint leaves a rough surface and ink will happily cling to it rather than running off the high pints and collecting in the low points - the result is that you can end up with a 'dirty' figure.
some people put a gloss varnish on the figure before washing and they mat varnish later. The magic wash that includes floor polish is very popular and the polish helps flow and can be used on its own to 'pre-varnish' prior to washing - though I can't stand the smell, so i have move to Army painter inks, which I am still experimenting with. Some say use them straight from the bottle and others say dilute 50/50 with water.
I am presently using light tone on flesh, dark tone on whites, light blue and greys and then their strong tone on everything else - I am still not convinced that i am getting the best results.
Sometimes after a wash, you may want to go over the highlights with a dry brush to 'rescue' them if the inks have dirtied them too much.
There are polyurethene 'dips' , but they can also be heavy handed, though the shading does happen, i found these dips tended to 'bronze' some of my colours. They also smell, take a while to dry and the brushes need to be cleaned in spirit.
My Russian WWII in their Khaki look good washed in brown ink, my germans are now lined with ink instead of 'washing' because the wash makes their uniform too dark. Basically, there is a bit of trial and error to all of this.
The AP strong tone ink in Klear works well
It is something I still cant make up my mind on though is whether black or brown ink wash works better on 10mm
I used to think that strong tone was better, but for 10mm figures I'm leaning toward the dark tone now as it provides good definition between colours. I use dark tone for uniforms and faces, white, red and blue indiscriminately these days!
I don't dilute it as I find it bubbles up too much, but I'll often use a dry brush or bit of kitchen roll to lift any excessive pooling.
I just recently did these 28mm guys in a scruffy basecoat and a dark tone wash, and with a little touching up they will be fine for gaming with!(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/06/ady2ajab.jpg)
Hell's bells! I took those for 10mm at first sight.
To my mind it's all down to personal preference.
I tried several styles before I finally managed to get hold of some floor polish and I've never looked back since. My ratio's are 3 water to 1 polish and then add ink to suit. An earlier method was to use watered down Vallejo acrylics -Black, Smoke (which is a bit of a wash anyway) and Chocolate Brown. These worked to varying degrees but I have found that the floor polish stuff works better. Also, you need different coloured washes depending on your base colour; reds, browns, yellows and white can all be brown washed. Greys, dark browns and whites can be blacked washed. Blues and whites can also be dark blue washed but only dark green works on greens. I can't really say anything about the AP stuff because to my mind it's too expensive to use as a trial method.
My advice would be to try out a few methods mentioned here and see which one(s) you like.
Quote from: FierceKitty on 06 May 2014, 11:37:38 AM
Then there's the popular name for the 42nd Highlanders too.
Argh! But not as Argh! as my appalling biscuit 'joke' on another thread......
Much must be forgiven a man approaching promotion.
Ric, re your Dark Tone wash on the napoleonics, impressive, was that a 'splash it all on everywhere' technique or did you do selective inking to avoid hitting certain parts?
Quote from: Subedai on 06 May 2014, 01:45:41 PM
To my mind it's all down to personal preference.
I tried several styles before I finally managed to get hold of some floor polish and I've never looked back since. My ratio's are 3 water to 1 polish and then add ink to suit. An earlier method was to use watered down Vallejo acrylics -Black, Smoke (which is a bit of a wash anyway) and Chocolate Brown. These worked to varying degrees but I have found that the floor polish stuff works better. Also, you need different coloured washes depending on your base colour; reds, browns, yellows and white can all be brown washed. Greys, dark browns and whites can be blacked washed. Blues and whites can also be dark blue washed but only dark green works on greens. I can't really say anything about the AP stuff because to my mind it's too expensive to use as a trial method.
My advice would be to try out a few methods mentioned here and see which one(s) you like.
I use the AP Strong tone ink not the dip
Quote from: Norm on 06 May 2014, 03:58:06 PM
Ric, re your Dark Tone wash on the napoleonics, impressive, was that a 'splash it all on everywhere' technique or did you do selective inking to avoid hitting certain parts?
Cheers, I just splashed it all over! My initial basecoat was rougher than a badgers behind and felt that a liberal helping of the dark tone would help cover any little mistakes! I did at one point go through a phase of using soft tone on flesh, strong tone on reds, yellows and greens, and dark tone on blues and other dark shades, but now I don't have the time or patience haha!
I should add that I brush on the ink from the bottles, I don't use the tins and dipping malarkey!
Quote from: FierceKitty on 06 May 2014, 02:40:48 PM
Much must be forgiven a man approaching promotion.
I know! And it was the wrong historical period to introduce Garibaldi!
I'm a firm believer in washes these days. Depending on style and size, either the poor mans Army Painter - wood stain varnish from B&Q (I sh*t you not, didn't get on with Future Floor Wax so tried the above and it worked really well!), or Games Workshops' Reikland Flesh for a more muted, dusty/dirty look. Have a look in my painting thread for some piccies - my recent ottomans are done with the GW wash over block colours over a sand base coat.
I've experimented with different wades as well for different areas of figures but life's a little too short as others else point out!
It took me several versions of the mix and much bad language at the results I was getting before I got it right
Another way is to coat the figure in pure Klear then add the wash to the figure once it was dry
God wash.
Games Workshop's Agrax Earthshade. Works on everything.
Quote from: Fenton on 06 May 2014, 04:12:54 PM
I use the AP Strong tone ink not the dip
Finger on the pulse, me. I'll be honest, I didn't know that AP did inks since I dropped their digital newsletter about two years ago.
:D Its the same colour and consistency as Devlan Mud if that helps at all
Just started using Agrax Earthshade on some 6mm ACW figures as a final all over wash, including the base (initially in sand yellow) before doing the hand painted matt varnish from Windsor and Newton. Works a treat. I also use the Warlord Games ink shades.
Quote from: Fenton on 06 May 2014, 06:42:05 PM
:D Its the same colour and consistency as Devlan Mud if that helps at all
Devlan mud, oh how my life changed when I discovered that. Only a tiny bit left in my tub then I need to find a replacement so that statement is a godsend.
you might find this useful
http://youtu.be/fuwwPGTd1T8
Army painter do three 'non-colour' inks. They are soft tone ( like a sepia) strong tone (apparently very similar to Devlan mud) and dark tone ( a sort of blackish ink).
I have just covered some WWII Russian infantry in strong tone and it really dirtied my figure too much. However a very quick touch up with some highlights did an excellent rescue job, with overall contrast now improved.
Have to admit that, given the previous post, I have found the WG inks do cover rather than just find the folds. WG Agrax, on the other hand, does tend to flow into creases with very little adherence to the high points.
you do have to water the AP one down I have found
Quote from: Dour Puritan on 08 May 2014, 08:31:18 PM
Have to admit that, given the previous post, I have found the WG inks do cover rather than just find the folds. WG Agrax, on the other hand, does tend to flow into creases with very little adherence to the high points.
What are WG inks?
I was presuming a mistype
I use the Vallejo dipping formula as a wash, not a dip. Black or Sepia depending on the colour I am shading. Devlan Mud smells awful but does work well. A bottle of Black Pelikan Ink (for Fountain pens) works very well when thinned down enough....basically trial and error. I found the Army Painter dips to be too dark and thick textured to be suitable for me.
Quote from: Fenton on 10 May 2014, 06:52:47 PM
I was presuming a mistype
Ah right Agrax is the new Devlan I guess. Just too expensive for the quantity I use - I did cry when I finally had to admit my last pot of Devlan Mud was empty :-[
I now use the Cote d'arms washes which with 6mm and 10mm I find slightly better as they are thinner than GW . Nowhere near as good for large scale or multi-colour shade washing on 28mm but seem to work fine as a brush on dip in the smaller scales.
The wash I keep coming back to is a mixture of thinners and burnt umber oil paint. Mix to suit, don't overfill the brush.
Quote from: Zippee on 11 May 2014, 07:34:04 AM
Ah right Agrax is the new Devlan I guess. Just too expensive for the quantity I use - I did cry when I finally had to admit my last pot of Devlan Mud was empty :-[
Make your own with stuff from art shops. Matte Medium, Flow improver, water and artists inks. It's seriously cheap and works just as well. Use Sephia ink to get a Devlan Mud equivalent.
See http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/261541.page (http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/261541.page)
Quote from: Genom on 07 May 2014, 05:52:09 PM
Devlan mud, oh how my life changed when I discovered that. Only a tiny bit left in my tub then I need to find a replacement so that statement is a godsend.
I found that Vallejo Sepia wash was a good replacement for Devlan Mud, though I thin it over white, otherwise it can be a bit dark.