Anyone have suggestions on how to do the 10 inch terrain squares and make it look nice? I'm struggling with how to approach this. Thanks
Personally D, I'm afraid I can't help.....But there'll be someone along fairly shortly to give you a hand, I'm sure.
But......As that was your first post.....
A very warm welcome to our happy forum.
Cheers - Phil.
Have considered using vinyl flooring with tile effect. This can be sprayed and/or flocked and the squares will still show. All terrain will have to be free-standing.
Thanks Techno...didn't realize I had never posted lol.
Vinyl tiles is an interesting idea. Plenty of earthy toned options out there. May take a look into that. I was also considering Hotz Matz and getting the square grid printed on the mat. But he only goes up to 6 inch squares.
Peter Pig do corner markers for their square bashing ranges.
A fiend got a load of tester pots in 'rural' colours and painted up a board in squares, it looked pretty cool.
Try TSS
http://totalsystemscenic.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1028_1284_1267
Terrain tiles. I have loads of these in the loft. Must dig them out but cant seem to get to grips with TTLGB :(
Hi
Try single trees, broken limbers, dead horse etc to make your squares.
Have seen it done with different coloured felt squares from fabric shops
Cheers
Bernie
Quote from: Bernie on 27 August 2013, 04:30:00 PM
Hi
Try single trees, broken limbers, dead horse etc to make your squares.
Have seen it done with different coloured felt squares from fabric shops
Cheers
Bernie
What a great simple way to do it....thanks...i'll give this a go
I painted subtle dots for my PBI board at the required grid spacing, and then I was able to place trees on junctions, fields at the edges etc to help define the area, but not make it too geometric.
DON'T use the top side of the tiles. I stick green paper to the self adhesive side - I use for bases. I use a mixture of cheap green paint (from the cheapie bookstoor) and pva glue. Spread cover deep in flock, leave 24 hours. Shake off excess and spray varnish
I struggled with the same problem for a while until i hit upon an idea that worked for me. I bought a 6'x4' terrain mat from The Terrain Guy, who happens to be the owner of my FLGS. I made a subtle mark every 10" on each edge. To be honest, since a 6x4 terrain mat is actually 72"x48" I fudged a bit to get 7 squares by 5 squares. I then cut a bunch of string into 5' and 7' strips. I taped a piece of string from one edge mark across the mat to the corresponding other mark until I had a grid. Where the strings intersected I made a subtle mark with a black permanent marker, so that the corners of each square were identified. A simple process which probably took no more than an hour to complete. The marks are subtle enough that I can use the mat for other games.
As an alternative to vinyl try using carpet tiles. They come in all sorts of colours and they're easy to cut with a sharp knife. The dark yellow, light green or dark brown ones also look more like fields.
All great ideas...thanks folks! I can't wait to try these rules out. They seem so different that they are actually very refreshing.
Has anyone played with the Republican rules that they released? I may pick them up as well.
Quote from: dedonta on 28 August 2013, 05:35:54 PM
Has anyone played with the Republican rules that they released? I may pick them up as well.
. Bernie is the guy to tell you, he wrote them, and did the demo game at SALUTE! I really love the TTLGB rules for big battles, and have written on here before about their advantages and subtleties. I wouldn't get too hung up about the exact size of your squares, though. Remember, the key intent of the author is that the area represented is one square kilometer, and that the most units it can contain effectively amounts to about a brigade. As all measuring is by the square, you can adjust its size according to your whim, and the size of your troop bases. For my games, I have reduced the infantry base sizes to 25mm wide, not because of size restrictions, but because I think it looks better. I think you could easily get away with squares from 9"-12" if you wanted, and even smaller if you were using 6mm figures (which, of course, you will not be! ;) ;)).
Mollinary
Quote from: mollinary on 28 August 2013, 05:54:40 PM
. Bernie is the guy to tell you, he wrote them, and did the demo game at SALUTE! I really love the TTLGB rules for big battles, and have written on here before about their advantages and subtleties. I wouldn't get too hung up about the exact size of your squares, though. Remember, the key intent of the author is that the area represented is one square kilometer, and that the most units it can contain effectively amounts to about a brigade. As all measuring is by the square, you can adjust its size according to your whim, and the size of your troop bases. For my games, I have reduced the infantry base sizes to 25mm wide, not because of size restrictions, but because I think it looks better. I think you could easily get away with squares from 9"-12" if you wanted, and even smaller if you were using 6mm figures (which, of course, you will not be! ;) ;)).
Mollinary
Lol...actually I'm using 6mm Polemos bases (60x60). Think I'm going to actually go with one base is equivelent to a regiment. Probably using hit markers to mark wear on the unit instead of removing smaller bases as prescribed in the rules. I love the grand scope of Franco Prussian battles, and this set seems to erally hit that note. Haven't played it yet, but it sounds like it might be one of the better ideas for the large scale engagements.
Anyone else toy around with single bases to represent regiments? How did it work out?
I use single bases for Black Powder or Volley and Bayonet. They work fine as long as you can differentiate units which is why mine all have labels. You may need something like a tick chart to record strength losses on for TTLGB?
Quote from: mad lemmey on 29 August 2013, 12:18:01 PM
I use single bases for Black Powder or Volley and Bayonet. They work fine as long as you can differentiate units which is why mine all have labels. You may need something like a tick chart to record strength losses on for TTLGB?
I was planning on marking each regiment as well. I already have to mark stands for Fire & Fury, so nothing too out of the ordinary for me lol. I have painted up casualty markers that I'll use to mark each regiment's casualties. We'll see how confusing it gets once we get multiple regiments engaged.
Single bases (I use 60mm) work extremely well with the Pendraken casualty figures (which also paint up very quickly). I have also found that Square Bashing gives a very good FPW game using 6" squares.
Quote from: Dour Puritan on 30 August 2013, 07:19:01 AM
Single bases (I use 60mm) work extremely well with the Pendraken casualty figures (which also paint up very quickly). I have also found that Square Bashing gives a very good FPW game using 6" squares.
Really...do you have a link for those rules?
Square Bashing are a set of rules by Peter Pig for the period 1898-1928. One of my regular opponents made a few period specific modifications to use them for FPW, eg heavy batteries only do off-board bombardment, which is an army asset in the rules and varies from army to army. It was very easy to come up with the variations for Krupp 6pdrs vis-a-vis French 12lb guns. Another modification gave French 4lb guns an extra factor at close range to simulate the attachment of mitrailleuse batteries. Prussian infantry have no ranged fire, they only combat square to square and so on. The rules are on Peter Pig's website, easy to reach via Google. I will be away for the next week, but post if you would like a full breakdown of the rules mods we have used. They gave us very enjoyable games with historical outcomes, and it's gratifying to refight Froeschwiller on a 4'x3' table which gives 48 squares to play with.
QuoteLol...actually I'm using 6mm Polemos bases (60x60). Think I'm going to actually go with one base is equivelent to a regiment. Probably using hit markers to mark wear on the unit instead of removing smaller bases as prescribed in the rules. I love the grand scope of Franco Prussian battles, and this set seems to erally hit that note. Haven't played it yet, but it sounds like it might be one of the better ideas for the large scale engagements.
Anyone else toy around with single bases to represent regiments? How did it work out?
The rules we used in the other Nachod game are basically this scale. The figures are based for Polemos (60x30) but these are cut into smaller bases (typically one of 40 x30 and one of 20x30). In our rules we in effect count 1 Polemos base as 3 Fire and Fury style bases. You can see this in the photos. If you look at say the first few you can see the bases. In the first photo (and in more detail in the ones after) for example you can see Hertwegh's Austrian brigade in Attack Column facing up to the Prussians. This is 3 Polemos style bases one behind each other or in our game 9 Fire and Fury style bases (3x3 bases). Notice as well that the arriving brigade (Rosenweig's) is the same (except for the Jagers - more on this later) but in march column. Each of these units is a brigade (i.e. 2 regiments) and the scale of the rules is 1 Fire and Fury base = about 600 men. Original Fire and Fury is 1 base = 100/150 men. This makes French brigades about 6 Fire and Fury bases (2 Polemos) and Austrian/Prussian around 9 Fire and Fury bases.
So not exactly 1 base = 1 regiment but close. Having 1 base = 600 men means we get to keep jagers and other units which are normally only a battalion. In the rules you can use these in various ways. In the first photos you can see Rosenweig's brigade has their jager battalion (a single base) fighting as just another infantry unit in the brigade - it is the dark base on the left in the 2nd rank, effectively making this unit a 10 base unit. Hertwegh's brigade has instead deployed it's jagers as a separate unit (to the right of it) operating in skirmish mode.
This idea works well and does mean that games like Nachod (a Corps a side) are very easy to play 1 vs 1 game. While larger battles are a lot more practical.
Dour Puritan
I'm certainly interested in an FPW variant of Square Bashing - I'd be even more interested in a variant for 1866 APW though! Lol! I'll be looking to buy the Real Time Wargames rules sets now too!
Cheers
Jules
Quote from: julesav on 12 September 2013, 10:02:02 AM
Dour Puritan
I'm certainly interested in an FPW variant of Square Bashing - I'd be even more interested in a variant for 1866 APW though! Lol! I'll be looking to buy the Real Time Wargames rules sets now too!
Cheers
Jules
Good Decision Jules, you get a lot of bang for your buck with RTW!
Mollinary
APW 1866 might be pushing things back a little too far owing to the muzzle loaders of the Austrians.