Tis is my first ever10mm paint job. Be gentle...lol
Pics are a bit naff for sime reason.
Very good so far
Iam not sure , these are a few I had spare, I've dry brushed the waistcoat and cross belts to get the black shading effect but still not to sure.
the paint looks quite thick by looking at the photos
Hi Chalkie,
Coming on well, i havn't used washes before but it might be worth putting one on now, black or light brownish, but the guys who use them are the ones to ask.
I black under coat and leave a very thin black line between jacket, trousers , straps etc when putting the base coats on, it picks out the detail more, but it depends on how quick you want them on the table though as to the way you go about painting them. Look forward to seeing more,
kev
Coming along nicely Chalkie.
Cheers - Phil.
Good start: agree with the wash suggestion, it helps calm a figure down and "tie" it together.
Don't know how long it is since you picked up a brush but you clearly have good control.
Nice job :-bd
I agree Fenton the paint does look a bit thick, it's the white cross belts and waist coat that is getting to me, just looks messy but if the dry brush way is meant to look like that then I will go for that. I will keep on at it.
Haven't painted in yrs.
When dry brushing you want very little paint on the brush (this is the dry bit) but the paint probably wants to be quite thin.
Get some paint on the brush, then wipe most of it off on a tissue. To check if you have the right amount of paint on the brush, I often do a practice swipe on something, a painting stick, or the wooden base of the figures can be useful for this. If this gives a light coat of paint then you are probably OK. Then do a light swipe over the figure.
Aim to do two or three light swipes rather than 1 heavy one.
Personally, and especially on 10mm minis, I hate drybrushing except at the very start of the process. I never use it to finish.
Quote from: chalkie on 22 August 2013, 04:52:51 PM
Haven't painted in yrs.
Amazing how it comes back eh? :)
Quote from: get2grips on 22 August 2013, 05:24:09 PM
Personally, and especially on 10mm minis, I hate drybrushing except at the very start of the process. I never use it to finish.
I would agree with this...better a good quality 000 brush and just paint the cross belts in
The only thing I drybrush now iis chain or plate armour
So would you say that these figures arent that good then ?
With 10mm its all about how they look as units...its very hard to judge 10mm stuff when the photographs are taken so close
As others in here might agree you paint the unit not the figure
Greater contrast is the way to go with smaller figures I think
Quote from: chalkie on 22 August 2013, 06:03:45 PM
So would you say that these figures arent that good then ?
Not at all, this is a really good start. You have skill but it takes practise to adjust to 10mm. Try applying a really gentle wash, it will calm everything down ;)
Honestly, 10mm is a whole new skill set, but keep it up, en masse these will look superb. If you look at mine they are all slightly out as I paint 120 at a time...
And I base, ink, then highlight then detail. You just need to find what suits you. Keep at it. :D
Aye, and remember that for a 10mm mini, this an EXTREME close up. :)
Yeh I understand that the unit effect is going to be more important than the individual base or figure, it's just that some of these techniques I've never done before, I don't have washes but will have to get some. Thanks forthe comments , I will put another pic up of the whole unit see what you all think then :)
Personally I prefer the Windsor and Newton ones Peat and Nut Brown are the ones I use most of...
As Lemmey says you really have to find your own way: take a mish-mash of all the advice and make it yours. Maybe washes aren't for you but those faces are crying out for one IMHO.
Given the brush skill you clearly have, you can easily paint in the white webbing lines rather than dry-brushing them. This will give a much cleaner effect.
Look forward to the next installment :-bd
Windsor & Newton sepia for me, or B&q acrylic wood stain, watered down 50%...
Waterweed optional...
Quote from: mad lemmey on 22 August 2013, 08:30:36 PM
Windsor & Newton sepia for me, or B&q acrylic wood stain, waterweed down 50%...
Where can I buy waterweed??? ;D
Quote from: get2grips on 22 August 2013, 08:33:30 PM
Where can I buy waterweed??? ;D
Any good ornamental fish supplier should stock it
Quote from: Fenton on 22 August 2013, 08:36:40 PM
Any good ornamental fish supplier should stock it
=O =O =O =O =O
Edited, bloody machines
Quote from: mad lemmey on 22 August 2013, 08:55:34 PM
Edited, bloody machines
No, I'm quite looking forward to painting my new centurions in it thanks to Fenton... :D
Makes great foliage camouflage
Touche =O
But why did it predict that !!
As Will says...."Bloody machines.". ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Cheers - Phil.
Hets my first finished unit , hope its to your liking. Cant for love nor money do the faces.
Cracking: excellent basing too. Welcome to 10mm anonymous :)
Love the drummer :-bd
Thanks very much, Iam hooked on 10mm, Iam gonna stick to this scale I think. These pendracken figures are really good .
Quote from: chalkie on 23 August 2013, 04:08:17 PM
Thanks very much, Iam hooked on 10mm, Iam gonna stick to this scale I think. These pendracken figures are really good .
The new one's are brilliant. Techno is a genius. =D>
As for faces: wash wash wash. You could do worse than the Evil Empire's flesh-shade. I really like their shades.
I will have to buy one like.
They are nicely gloopy: you could even retro wash without ruining a figure.
Who does them ?
Evil Empire: Games Workshop :-$
Haha, comedian.. ;)
:) Don't like them on principle but their shades are really good and, looking at the way you paint, I think they'd really suit you. I learner on a diet of 25mm and then changed to 10mm. I couldn't make them "clean" enough until I discovered these.
Enjoy :)
Coat d'arms flesh, flesh wash, then highlight.
Unit works really well btw, nicely done sir. 8)
Quote from: mad lemmey on 23 August 2013, 05:18:29 PM
Coat d'arms flesh, flesh wash, then highlight.
Unit works really well btw, nicely done sir. 8)
Never used it: is it inky?
Flesh is paint, wash is inky (dip, dip in water, apply) highlight as you wish! :D
Quote from: get2grips on 23 August 2013, 04:27:28 PM
Techno is a genius. =D>
I wouldn't say that Gareth....Though it's very kind. ;) :-[
Check out some of Clibby's stunning work....
and the other designers.
I'm not the only one.....Just probably the one with the biggest gob. ;)
Cheers - Phil.
Quote from: mad lemmey on 23 August 2013, 06:32:26 PM
Flesh is paint, wash is inky (dip, dip in water, apply) highlight as you wish! :D
Hmm...will try :-bd
Quote from: Techno on 23 August 2013, 08:03:36 PM
I wouldn't say that Gareth....Though it's very kind. ;) :-[
Okay...you are a BLOODY GOOD sculptor: any dissenters... :-w ...no! There you go :D
I don't mean to swear in church or anything like that but personally I like the use of Armypainters quickshade... so sorry if this subject has already been discussed here in depth!
I've been painting figures in all sorts of scales and in all sorts of techniques for the last 30 years or so but the Armypainter quickshade really got me back on track with painting wargaming units. I'm now using the 'strong tone' (which is the medium, brownish, one) for my 10mm Boer War Brits and I really like the overall effect plus the extra bonus of it really protecting your paintwork when playing with the figures. Drawbacks certainly are the ridiculous prce of the stuff and the fact that you absolutely need a matt coat to get a decent finish but it realy speeded up painting units for me. Also; make sure to start with a lighter colour then what you intend to get cause the quickshade does make all colors darker. I know inks and washes can bring you the same effect but usually ask for a lot more time and layers.
If you want you can always paint in some highlights afterwards and with some 20 or 28mm units I do but these figures seem to come out great without the extra effort.
As soon as I find out how to post pictures here I will certainly show you how they worked out... unfortunately computers and related stuff are not my strongest point...
Best regards,
Rob