Gulp.....
Having had a crack at a few conversions I thought I would get brave and try my first complete sculpt in 10mm, using some of Leon's dollies he provided........a brigand to push the Hundred Years War battering ram that I made last week.
I had a good look around the net at a few tutorials, made a couple of sketches, and looked in the mirror a lot at how I stand when I push something heavy and after the third attempt this is what I ve got so far:
(http://data8.blog.de/media/746/7071746_b084990e0a_m.jpeg)
The legs look a little stumpy in the photo, but actually in the flesh they look right and I am pretty pleased with the proportions. Helmet was a pig to do as was the coif, but I got there in the end ;)
Still to make the hands, add a shield to his back and a belt and scabbard and then I am pretty much there I think.......and then on to a second one with a slightly different pose to lend a hand moving the wagon :D
All comments and crits welcome, but please be kind this is my first attempt at 10mm.
Cheers,
Craig
Tiny Terrain Models
Looking good for a first go! Certainly a lot better than I can do.
Just a comment on the moulding side, on sculpts with the arms out away from the body like that, they will come under a lot of pressure when the sculpt is moulded. You'll need to make sure there's a wire armature inside the arms, or there's a strong possibility they'd bend or snap.
Hi Leon,
This one has wire in the arms, but its pretty light weight stuff to be honest. The first two minis I am making are kind of test pieces for the two I want to make for Pendraken to go the Battering Ram in kit form (by the way are the wheels on the way?). I appreciate you have a long waiting list for molding new stuff so I will make a simple 2 part mould at home and then cast a few of each of the test pieces to man my machines until the production ones are up and running.
I'll make sure the ones I do for you guys have a decent solid core to the outstetched limbs.
Cheers,
Craig
Tiny Terrain Models
Looks good - and for a first attempt it's really good.
For the second one I would try for a slightly leaning forward pose, as if he is putting his whole body weight in to the shove.
I think that looks terrific Craig !
Only thing that looks a tiny bit out to my old eyes are the lengths of the arms....(But it may be the angle of the photo ?)
His elbows look as though they'd go a fair bit below his belt, if he put them down at his side.
But absolutely belting first attempt. :-bd :-bd Brilliant !
Cheers - Phil.
PS...Yup headgear can be a pain in the bottom to get right, can't it ?...
PPS....If you can do this....Why are you getting me to make that figure you've asked for ? ;) ;D
Great first effort Craig.
Thanks guys for the feedback, all v useful. Good point Fred regarding the slightly more animated pose, I 'll give it a try on model 2.
Techno, in a blind panic I rushed upstairs and checked, the arms are fine ( it must be the photo angle). More by luck than judgement though :-[
As for why your making my Warrior Bishop, 2 reasons, your bloody good, secondly until last night I didn't know I could do this, so I still have lots and lots and lots of practice to do ;D
Cheers
Craig
Great first attempt, Craig. If I had to make a small criticism I would say the upper body is a little short, which is why he looks stumpy. However, he's a sight better than anything I've ever done.... :-bd
I like it!
Hertsblue,
I think you might be right, he has the same problem as me; short body and he's too tubby!
Thanks, really useful observation,
Regards
Craig
Tiny Terrain Models
For a first go that's a belter.
In terms of tips; the use of dolls is tricky in 10mm, the original doll is usually quite thick to begin with to get it to cast in such a small scale. This doesn't leave a lot of surface room for actual sculpting, so that the figures can end up looking thick-bodied which in turn makes the figure look "short" (the ratio of girth to height being too low). It can be useful to shave down the body and legs of the metal doll to give more room, though not too much or it will make the doll too weak.
For wire, I usually go with 15amp fuse wire for 10mm arms, if I think it needs to be stronger I'll use 0.2mm brass wire (good for weapons too). The advantage of fuse wire is its easy to obtain.
You're definitely on the right track, it takes time and practice to learn these things.
Thanks Clib, means a lit coming from you :)
Comparing it to my "proper" Pendraken he is definitely a bit chunky.....but that's fine as it is a practicepieceafter all.
I'll keep trying and thanks for the tips,
Cheers,
Craig
Tiny Terrain Models
Hi Craig.
As Clib says....
It's definitely 'better' to shave down the legs and body down a tiny bit, to give yourself more room to work with the putty....
But also...as he says...you have to be careful you don't end up making it too weak and snapping the dolly...especially around the ankles.
I'll still do that from time to time, but fortunately pretty rarely.
I use the dear old Dremmel with a 'diamond coated' burr to do this, as it's easier to take tiny amounts away...and the d/c burrs don't 'grab' as 'normal' burrs are a little prone to do
This IS rather fiddly, but practice and patience are, as usual,the watchwords here.
I'm still WELL impressed....Especially as a first go !!
Cheers - Phil.
:'( Your first one? Im burning in envy!
Nice done, Craig 8)
It is great! The face is really really grate and the proportion and clothes are top noch.
good work