My first ever 10mm figures!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8uUmmDnkCpU/T_BSxP3wxSI/AAAAAAAAAh0/LDHVP9VSrSs/s1600/P1040392.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZCgggHFgtpc/T_BTXcRZM7I/AAAAAAAAAiQ/rTA_v2_SN9g/s1600/P1040395.JPG)
More on my blog http://pijlieblog.blogspot.nl/
Very nice mate...I love the colour of the gun barrel
After reading your blog, it was a shame Figz was on the same day, I know the organisers and their forum and I would love to get across to either shows one day
Absolutely gorgeous! Your talent and experience show in every detail.
And do I spot Swedish ensigns? I'll see your brigade and raise you a tercio! Can't wait to give our lads a proper outing.
Cheers,
Aart
Very nice indeed 8)
Those are really brilliant! Wow! :D
Looks like you have found your perfect scale, really good. What I particularly admire (because I cannot do it myself!) is your ability to paint realistic dull colours, such as browns, and still make the figures stand out and look interesting. Great work.
Mollinary
Damn fine sir !
Cheers - Phil.
Excellent!
8)
Impressive brushwork, Pijlie. =D>
Thank you all for all the praise!
The muted colours require no special skill, but you will need at least five or six different browns ranging from broken white to very dark brown. Dark greens fit in very well too. Reserve the lighter colours for the upper extremities like arms and heads (hats), the lower you come the darker you paint everything and finally bring it all together with a thin dark brown wash. Especially at this small scale details like faces, arms, hands and sword blades need very light colours to bring them out sufficiently.
I used to make all my washes myself with watered down paint and dishwaser detergent, but since GW began marketing their superb new inks I never bother any more. Devlan Mud is my favorite at the moment, but Army Painter dark shade is fine as well as long as you matt varnish to counter the gloss and don't mind the drying time.
Very nice work. (and impressive pictures from Impact2012 on your blog as well) I'm also doing 10mm P&S so I'm very curious about the details of your army of course.
What sets did you use for the Musketeers? Or is it just the regular YW1?
What type of ordnance are we looking at here?
thanks in advance. ;)
Hi
Slap devlan mud ( or whatever the evil empire call it now) on your figures it works wonders.
Jim
I am aiming for a rather generic but slightly Swedish flavoured early 17th century army so I mixed a few periods. For the musketeers I used YW1, EC3,and EC14. When luck has it EC 28 will arrive this week. The gun is a medium gun from EC7.
The final OOB will be something like
6 pike blocks (24 men per block on 6-man bases) so 144 pike
Some 240 shotte in 6-man bases so I can arrange them in all kinds of formations
6 medium guns
2 light guns
1 unit cuirassiers
2 units medium cavalry
2 units light cavalry (Finns)
2 units of Dragoons (mounted and dismounted)
I have finished the first cuirassiers and the medium cavalry and am currently working on the pike. Properly prepped, this 10mm stuff paintgs amazingly fast! :)
Thanks for the info, Pijlie! The mixed musketmen look indeed very nice. I like your order of battle too. I'm aiming for a similar setup (just Imperial) and hope to be able to withstand the constant temptation of just getting tons of cavalry instead of a nice core of pike and shot. ;)
More guns, pikes and cavalry!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4KsrGx_DM7I/UAAmk0Zt0DI/AAAAAAAAAjM/klB9EPjmvF4/s320/P1040428.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O9YIB7OndsM/UAAnG7AX0II/AAAAAAAAAjw/R7cfNuqjPCE/s320/P1040433.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ezEhQY6bHz0/UAAnf2Qg1_I/AAAAAAAAAkI/KfqBgx5LLt0/s320/P1040437.JPG)
Some more pics can be seen on my blog.
Excellent, Pijlie. Did you mention what rules you were going to use?
Ehmm, actually I didn't. So that's a good question. :-[
They are based for Warlord's Pike & Shotte. Square inch bases for the foot and ordnance (6 foot or 1 gun with crew) and 30mm square for 3 horse (1 inch was just a little too small).
But I guess the basing would work for other rulesets as well, as long as casualty removal is not required.