Hi,
Ive been trying to get drybrushing to work on 10mm and it seems hit and miss, i either have too much paint on the brush of have wiped of too much and then none comes onto the details.
I was just wondering if any of you have any tips, such as a type of brush you use, is it stiff or soft. Do you thin the paint at all or use it neat. And anything else you can think off.
Thanks
Brian.
I know that feeling so well Brian :'(
Getting the right amount of paint on the brush is a case of trial and error until you get it how you like. Better too little than too much. I sometimes thin the paint if it goes off quickly in hot weather for instance
I prefer a brush that has slightly soft bristles but still stiff enough to "flick" over the model without going into all the detail.
Don't use your favourite sable as nothing knackers brushes quicker than dry brushing :(
One thing I do to try to ensure the right amount of paint is on the brush is to do a test dry brush "swipe" across the underside of the base, before trying on the mini.
Definitely brush paint off on a tissue first. Thinning the paint a little can help. Its much easier to do two coats than try to remove a too heavy coat of paint!
having a test figure to hand is pretty useful to test how heavily loaded the paint is. Always start with a light stroke to see the effect you are getting from that particular brush load. Using thinner paint means that the colour effect is less striking, but the wetness means that paint will 'spread' a bit more. A thicker paint will give a more precise effect - it will also look more dusty which can be good or bad depending on the effect you want. On the whole i find less is more - load the brush lightly and if it isnt enough then keep going - the colour will gradually build up to how you want it. I use a flat ended brush for drybrushing - for me it is much easier to use than a normal pointed brush - just a normal acrylic brush though, not particularly soft
I will suggest to not dry-brush.
With 10 mm, you can also use another way to achieve great miniatures:
You do all your colors, then use a wash of brownish-color.
i drybrush much less now than i did in the past preferring layer methods. But.... it does still have its uses - on things like fur and hair and metallics. Also on scenery and bases its a must i think.
Quote from: goat major on 18 March 2011, 04:25:46 PM
i drybrush much less now than i did in the past preferring layer methods. But.... it does still have its uses - on things like fur and hair and metallics. Also on scenery and bases its a must i think.
I'm pretty much with goat major here to be honest: I don't tend to do much drybrushing [at all actually, regardless of scale] - in 10mm I'll [fast]paint highlights on: a judicious touch is better than a drybrush sweep I think...
My excpetion (to prove the rule) would be that a final featherlite drybrush onto vehicles etc (after the paint-highlight-wash-rehighlight stages) will work nicely to 'lift' everything: and this is the lightest drybrush imaginable!
One thing that's possibly worth saying is that there is a general tendency for most people to approach drybrushing as something that needs to be done with pace, vigour and all-over: almost the exact opposite is the case: take your time - go slow, do it very lightly - and select your spots 8)
I leave the paint to dry out for a bit to make it more sticky before I load the brush.
Also the best thing I have found to test if you have got it right is one's very own finger.
Just watch where you put it next !!! ;D ;D ;D
Dave
http://weemenunderthebed.blogspot.com/
Quote from: goat major on 18 March 2011, 04:25:46 PM
i drybrush much less now than i did in the past preferring layer methods. But.... it does still have its uses - on things like fur and hair and metallics. Also on scenery and bases its a must i think.
Also for me. In my opinion 10 mm is a too small scale for massive drybrush works... at least for me.
Quote from: Mexican Dave on 19 March 2011, 11:56:01 AM
Also the best thing I have found to test if you have got it right is one's very own finger.
Just watch where you put it next !!! ;D ;D ;D
Oops ;)
I think drybrushing is absolutely necessary to bring out details in 10mm as well as give the model a matt look which suits my taste better than the glossy look that often results from washes. I can't imagine painting rolls of cloth, sacks, chests and other parafernalia on my tanks without thoroughly drybrushing them. However like the man said, when drybrushing it's better to use too little paint than too much.
I have also found that Nikharwood's trick of applying a very light off-white drybrush as a finishing touch really helps to improve the overall look. Works very well with buildings and even with soldier models.
Cheers,
Aart
Best tip I came across, dry brush the top of a finger ( other side of finger nail ). If you can pick out your finger print, you have got the amount of paint spot on ! :)
I'm afraid you can lump me in with the "Dry Brushing is a good thing" crowd.
A few tips that have worked for me: Use a brush that has a tapered tip,(i.e. cats tongue or filbert). Semi stiff helps to. Try adding a drop of Vallejo Drying Retarder #70.597. This seems to help the paint stay workable,(i.e. last longer). Lastly, if your willing to put up with the fumes and slow drying time, I've not found anything superior to oil based enamels for dry brushing. Just be aware that you will require about half the amount of paint.
Hope this helps,
Grunt