Hi
Just wondering about these rules; does anybody know if any 1/4800 scale WWII model ships are available in the UK?
After doing a very quick search online the only company that seems to come up is 'Shapeways Miniatures' who seem to be in the US.
Cheers Paul
You can get lots 1/3000, but not aware of any 1/4800th Leciester did a comprehensive range but that disapperaed many years ago.
Not aware of any 1/4800 scale WW2 stuff. Tumbling Dice are the only ones doing that scale that I'm aware of and they are Anglo-Dutch Wars and Napoleonics.
Magister Militum do/did 1/6000 WW2 but they seemed pricey to me when I looked at them.
Just got the rules yesterday and am planning to use my Navwar 1/3000 stuff. I might even be pushed into painting some more! There are plenty somewhere in the foothills of the lead mountains awaiting a coat of paint.
I've got some sample 1/3000 (3 x cruisers and 4 x destroyers) for the IJN and USN that I ought to finish painting and do labels for the bases.
I can't conceive of being able to go smaller than 1/3000 and, with my eyesight, have a clue what the ships are. Even in 1/3000 I need the labels to differentiate between classes.
Edward
Hi
Many thanks to all for the swift replys.
Could someone please tell be roughly the actual size of say a 'battleship' in 1/3000 scale and are Navwar still in business? And Ithoriel, did you buy the PDF version of the rules or get a hard copy from somewhere?
Many thanks as always.
Cheers Paul
Paul,
I got a hard copy of the rules from Amazon. Print on demand and not cheap at £40 but at least I have an Amazon Prime account so no postage and delivered Saturday having been ordered Thursday evening.
I have the pdf's for the ship and aircraft data, the QRF and the "Freya" introductory scenario downloaded free from Sam Mustafa's site.
Navwar are still going or were a couple of weeks ago.
I have the Tirpitz in front of me - she's 8cm long in 1/3000.
Hi Ithoriel
Fantastic, thanks for all the information. I would be very interested to hear what you think of the rules in due course, particularly if you can use them solo. I am left wondering how they will play on a table 6ft x 4ft when a 'capital' ship is 8cm long, I tend to like a lot of manoeuvering room in my games. :-\
Cheers Paul
Mick Yarrow has a 1/4800 naval range covering WW1 and WW2.
Shapeways do 3d prints.
Magister Militum produce the old Figurehead / Hallmark ranges (1/6000 for the world wars).
I have some of these, the detail is crisp and recognition hasn't been a problem.
Size wise, google the dimensions of the ship and divide by 4800, 3000 or whatever scale applies.
Easy enough unless you don't have a computer.
Has anybody seen the rules yet?
If anyone is using 1/3000 https://navymodelsandbooks.co.uk/news/ has the Davco range.
Quote from: steve_holmes_11 on 13 March 2023, 11:25:30 AMSize wise, google the dimensions of the ship and divide by 4800, 3000 or whatever scale applies.
Easy enough unless you don't have a computer.
I am just wondering who and how someone would be reading this forum without a computer, or equivalent device? ;D
QuoteI am just wondering who and how someone would be reading this forum without a computer, or equivalent device? ;D
Doesn't one have your man print off a copy to peruse over you early morning cup of tea?
Hi
Couldn't resist, Amazon currently have a discount on the rules, down from £40.00 to £31.53 and free postage using my son's Prime account. Should be here Wednesday. Now to decide on scale of ships...... and British v Italian in the Med. or maybe the Pacific, decisions, decisions.... :-\
Cheers Paul
Quote from: T13A on 13 March 2023, 11:23:23 AMI am left wondering how they will play on a table 6ft x 4ft when a 'capital' ship is 8cm long, I tend to like a lot of manoeuvering room in my games. :-\
The table is assumed to scroll. If a ship that is not disengaging leaves the table everything moves so as to create space. As the rules say, if you need to make space in two dimensions at once you need a bigger table or smaller ship models :-)
I made the mistake of looking at Magister Militum's 1/6000th scale stuff.
I do fancy Iron Bottom Sound in 1/6000 :)
Now, where do I find a professional painter with the patience and eyesight to do scores of 1/6000 ships and the time to paint them before I go haring off to the next project?
Quote from: kustenjaeger on 13 March 2023, 11:49:05 AMIf anyone is using 1/3000 https://navymodelsandbooks.co.uk/news/ has the Davco range.
Beat me to it
QuoteI made the mistake of looking at Magister Militum's 1/6000th scale stuff.
I do fancy Iron Bottom Sound in 1/6000 :)
Now, where do I find a professional painter with the patience and eyesight to do scores of 1/6000 ships and the time to paint them before I go haring off to the next project?
Some while back, but I painted the bulk of WW2's capital ships in under a week.
The 1/6000 are a great example of smaller minis requiring far less work.
My suggested order of painting used to be posted on the Hallmark website.
From memory.
Main colour all over the ships.
Pick out wooden decks where appropriate (Many navies had adopted a linoleum substitute
or stripped the wood as a fire risk by WW2).
Apply a wash that picks out turrets and other upper works detail.
Ocean colour on the textured sea bases.
Wash slightly darker.
Drybrush slightly lighter.
Glue the ships onto the bases.
Very light white drybrush of bow and stern waves.
Paint tab at back of base a national colour, and ink on a three letter/digit identifier.
Quote from: T13A on 13 March 2023, 08:34:20 PMHi
Couldn't resist, Amazon currently have a discount on the rules, down from £40.00 to £31.53 and free postage using my son's Prime account. Should be here Wednesday. Now to decide on scale of ships...... and British v Italian in the Med. or maybe the Pacific, decisions, decisions.... :-\
Cheers Paul
Thanks Paul - I hadn't noticed the Amazon sale price so I have just snapped up a copy.
Edward
Quote from: T13A on 13 March 2023, 11:23:23 AMHi Ithoriel
Fantastic, thanks for all the information. I would be very interested to hear what you think of the rules in due course, particularly if you can use them solo. I am left wondering how they will play on a table 6ft x 4ft when a 'capital' ship is 8cm long, I tend to like a lot of manoeuvering room in my games. :-\
Cheers Paul
Solo depends on your view of
Solo. Each side rolls a die with the higher choosing whether to move first and then fire first or to move second and fire second having suffered from the opponents firing: do you want to have the advantage of manoeuvre or the advantage of first fire? Other than that it makes no difference. Essentially all ships move at the same general speeds, which is divided into fast, normal or slow, with the last being compulsory when badly damaged. There are short and long ranges for guns with calibre having no difference but there is a division between big guns (capital ships and heavy cruisers) and small guns (light cruisers and below, secondary armament). Torpedoes are treated as guns that do a different sort of damage but are only used at short range, unless you are Japanese. Game play is reduced to a few core principles so will not attract the 'rivet-counter' player but for those who are happy with non-complex rules it should give a good game. The first trial play at the club has given it the thumbs up.
Thanks for the summary hammurabi70
While definitely not a 'rivet-counter' I want a bit more differentiation ;)
I'll be sticking GQ I//II :)
We use Navwar 1:3,000 ships and are very happy with the balance between detail and table space
The ordering process is a little old school but the service is prompt
My Iron Bottom Sound terrain is 1:18,000 which matches the revised ground scale we use for GQ I/II :D
Additionally there is HALSEY, which covers operational aspects. That runs on three turns to the day: AM, PM, Night. This covers air operations, submarines and so forth. I know nothing of it other than flipping the pages but it is impressive that the rules aim to give you an integrated experience.
Nanwar are still in business, I faxed an order on Thursday night and my credit card has been charged by "Navwar".
You can't email, phone or place an order on the website - you have to physically post or fax it.
Regards
Lee
Quote from: fulcrum on 18 March 2023, 09:21:55 AMNanwar are still in business, I faxed an order on Thursday night and my credit card has been charged by "Navwar".
You can't email, phone or place an order on the website - you have to physically post or fax it.
Regards
Lee
Somewhere there is a joke about Brexit.
QuoteNanwar are still in business,
If only it were Nanwar. :D
(https://media3.giphy.com/media/ABgNxvbk95V3W/giphy.gif)
Just played out a game inspired by the Battle of the River Plate.
Photos were taken :)
I'll upload them later and post an AAR.
It proved to be a fun little game though the dice definitely favoured one side. Was tempted to fudge die rolls a couple of times but resisted and I'm glad I did.
Quote from: fsn on 18 March 2023, 10:02:59 AMIf only it were Nanwar. :D
(https://media3.giphy.com/media/ABgNxvbk95V3W/giphy.gif)
That is how I see the House of Commons
My 'decisive' attacks usually culminate in this, but at 20paces!
Hi Lee
QuoteNanwar are still in business, I faxed an order on Thursday night and my credit card has been charged by "Navwar"
Apologies if I am being really dumb but did you put all of your credit card details order in your fax? It just that I wiil be putting an order in myself soon.
Cheers Paul
Quote from: Ithoriel on 18 March 2023, 02:51:50 PMJust played out a game inspired by the Battle of the River Plate.
Photos were taken :)
I'll upload them later and post an AAR.
Please do!
QuoteHi Lee
Apologies if I am being really dumb but did you put all of your credit card details order in your fax? It just that I wiil be putting an order in myself soon.
Cheers Paul
In my experience the short answer yes, the only other way is to phone him during shop hours (Saturday afternoon IIRC), a bit tricky & costly from the Antipodes
The good news is that fax is so rare that the odds of the info going astray is pretty remote ;)
Quote from: steve_holmes_11 on 13 March 2023, 10:53:11 PMSome while back, but I painted the bulk of WW2's capital ships in under a week.
The 1/6000 are a great example of smaller minis requiring far less work.
My suggested order of painting used to be posted on the Hallmark website.
From memory.
Main colour all over the ships.
Pick out wooden decks where appropriate (Many navies had adopted a linoleum substitute
or stripped the wood as a fire risk by WW2).
Apply a wash that picks out turrets and other upper works detail.
Ocean colour on the textured sea bases.
Wash slightly darker.
Drybrush slightly lighter.
Glue the ships onto the bases.
Very light white drybrush of bow and stern waves.
Paint tab at back of base a national colour, and ink on a three letter/digit identifier.
Thanks for that, very useful tips for painting. However, I have been fighting off the lure of 1/6000 with my IBS game for years. I already have so many painting jobs in hand I think I can avoid the temptation ... for now. Any photos to go with your fleets and AARs for 1/6000 ships? Are they very visible at any distance other than close?
QuoteThanks for that, very useful tips for painting. However, I have been fighting off the lure of 1/6000 with my IBS game for years. I already have so many painting jobs in hand I think I can avoid the temptation ... for now. Any photos to go with your fleets and AARs for 1/6000 ships? Are they very visible at any distance other than close?
I'm afraid I don't have photographs.
I was really impressed by the sharp detail.
This allows a wash to really pick up the details.
I tend to do ship recognition by silhouette, and have no problem distinguishing battleships and cruisers at that scale.
I would most certainly struggle if a battle involved a mix of destroyer classes.
Quote from: paulr on 19 March 2023, 06:11:21 AMHi Lee
Apologies if I am being really dumb but did you put all of your credit card details order in your fax? It just that I wiil be putting an order in myself soon.
Cheers Paul
Yes, They have an order form that is designed to be printed off, but I just kncoked up a letter giving code, description, price total etc saved it as a pdf and used "PDF24 Fax" to send it (allows 5 free fax's a month for free and doesn't rquire you to have a fax machine).
Glad that Nanwar sparked a bit of debate :D
Lee
QuoteYes, They have an order form that is designed to be printed off, but I just knocked up a letter giving code, description, price total etc saved it as a pdf and used "PDF24 Fax" to send it (allows 5 free fax's a month for free and doesn't rquire you to have a fax machine).
That could be a dangerous piece of information in itself now the local place were I used to fax from has finally got rid of their dedicated fax machine! ;)
Quote from: pierre the shy on 20 March 2023, 05:32:14 PMThat could be a dangerous piece of information in itself now the local place were I used to fax from has finally got rid of their dedicated fax machine! ;)
Sorry :d
My work here is done!
Lee
Navwar (sometimes spelt Nanwar) parcel arrived today (ordered Thurs evening last week).
If anyone wants to know the current contents of the WW2 starter fleets, let me know.
Regards
Lee
QuoteNavwar (sometimes spelt Nanwar) parcel arrived today (ordered Thurs evening last week).
If anyone wants to know the current contents of the WW2 starter fleets, let me know.
Regards
Lee
is it a long list?
Quote from: hammurabi70 on 21 March 2023, 02:38:29 PMis it a long list?
There are 12 starter packs, each with 10ish items
Great Britain early
German early
France Early
Italy
USA early
Japan early
Soviet Union
Breat Britain late
Germany late
France late
USA late
Japan late
I'll just start typing....
Each starter pack has a minimum 6 Capital ships, 4 Cruisers and 8 Destroyers
Projected ships are marked *
x4 DD means you get 4 ships (destroyers are usuall 2 to a pack)
The contents cab vary, but this is the list that came with my order today
FPWW1 Great Britain - early
Capital Ships
N1105 Rodney BB
N1107 Royal Oak BB
N1108d Malaya BB
N1153a Repulse BB
N1205 Ark Royal CV
N1206 Furious CV
Cruisers
N1303 Norfolk CA
N1322 Ajax CL
N1325a Cairo x2 CLAA
Destroyers
N1511 Tribal Class x4 DD
N1514a A/H Class x4 DD
FPWW2 Germany - early
Capital Ships
N3102 Bismark BB
N3102a Tirpitz BB
N3152 Gneisenau BC
N3153a Adm Graf Spee BC
N3153b Adm Scheer BC
Cruisers
N3302 Hipper CA
N3110 Koln x3 CL
Destroyers
N3502b "Narvik" Class x4 DD
N3503 Von Roeder Class x4 DD
FPWW3 France - early
Capital Ships
N2103 Dunkerque BB
N2103a Strasburg BB
N2106a Lorraine BB
N2106b Bretagne BB
N2107a Courbet BB
N2203 Bearn CV
Cruisers
N2301 Algerie CA
N2315 La Galissoniere x3 CL
Destroyers
N2505 Chevalier Paul Class x4 DD
N2509 Le Hardi Class x6 DD
FPWW4 Italy
Capital Ships
N4101 Littorio x2 BB
N4104a Andrea Doria x2 BB
N4105a Guilio Cesare BB
N4201 Aquila CV
Cruisers
N4304 Trento Class x2 CA
N4316 Bande Nere x2 CL
Destroyers
N4502 Oriani Class x4 DD
N4506 Navigatori Class X4 DD
FPWW5 USA - Early
Capital Ships
N6107 California BB
N6108a New Mexico BB
N6109a Arizona BB
N6119a Nevada BB
N6209 Lexington CV
N6203 Wasp CV
Cruisers
N6304 New Orleans CA
N6306 Northampton CA
N6316 Brooklyn x2 CL
Destroyers
N6505 Livermore Class x4 DD
N6507a Benham Class x4 DD
FPWW6 Japan - early
Capital Ships
N5106a Nagato BB
N5108a Hyuga BB
N5153a Kongo BB
N5153b Hiei BB
N5205 Hiryu CV
N5206 Chyoda CV
Cruisers
N5304 Nachi CA
N5316 Jintsu x3 CL
Destroyers
N5506 Shiratsuyu x4 DD
N5508 Fubuki x4 DD
FPWW7 Soviet Union
Capital Ships
N7101 Kronstadt x2 BC*
N7102 Sovyetsky Soyuz x2 BB*
N7105a Marat x2 BB
Cruisers
N7304 Kirov x2 CA
N7306 Krasni Krim x2 CL
Destroyers
N7500 Ognevoi x4 DD
N7502 Gordyii x4 DD
FPWW8 Great Britain - late
Capital Ships
N1101 Vanguard BB
N1103a King George V x2 BB
N1202 Colossus x2 CVL
N1203a Indefatigable CV
Cruisers
N1304a London CA
N1315a Uganda CL
N1316 Dido x2 CLAA
Destroyers
N1505 Early Battle Class x4 DD
N1506 S-Z Class x4 DD
FPWW9 Germany - late
Capital Ships
N3101 H Class x2 BB*
N3151 O,P,Q Class BC*
N3152b Gneisenau BC*
N3202 Seydlitz CV*
N3203 Jade CV*
Cruisers
N3307 Spahkuzer 1-3 3x Scout Cruisers*
N3307a M Class x2 CL*
Destroyers
N3500 1945groups x4 DD*
N3501 Z-35 Class x4 DD*
FPWW10 France - late
Capital Ships
N2100 Alsace x2 BB*
N2101 Gascogne BB*
N2102 Richelieu BB
N2102b Clemenceau BB*
N2202 Joffre CV*
Cruisers
N2300 St Louis CA*
N2315a De Grasse x3 CL*
Destroyers
N2502 Bayard x4 DD*
N2504 Fantasque x4 DD*
FPWW11 USA - late
Capital Ships
N6102 Iowa x2 BB
N6103 Alabama x2 BB
N6204 Essex CV
N6205 Independence CVL
Cruisers
N6302 Baltimore CA
N6313 Cleveland CL
N6315a Flint x2 CLAA
Destroyers
N6502 Gearing class x4 DD
N6504 Fletcher class x4 DD
FPWW12 Japan - late
Capital Ships
N5101a Yamato BB
N5105b Nagato BB
N5016b Ise CV/BB
N5201 Unryu CV
N5214 Ryuho CVL
N5215 Ibuki CVL
Cruisers
N5303 Takao x2 CA
N5315 Oyodo x2 CL
Destroyers
N5502 Akitsuki x4 DDAA
N5504 Yukikaze x4 DD
Many thanks; most kind. You seem to have BIG plans with so many fleets!
NavWar does have a website here, http://www.navwar.co.uk/nav/ (http://www.navwar.co.uk/nav/)
You just can't buy anything directly from it
Quote from: hammurabi70 on 21 March 2023, 09:34:42 PMMany thanks; most kind. You seem to have BIG plans with so many fleets!
Scary thing is that between Paul (US and Japanese) and myself (British, Germans, Italians and French) we probably have 95% of all those ships, apart from the "what-if" capital ships :-X
Quote from: paulr on 22 March 2023, 06:12:35 AMNavWar does have a website here, http://www.navwar.co.uk/nav/ (http://www.navwar.co.uk/nav/)
You just can't buy anything directly from it
Not directly ;)
QuoteNavWar does have a website here, http://www.navwar.co.uk/nav/ (http://www.navwar.co.uk/nav/)
You just can't buy anything directly from it
You can't order through the website (you call add things to your order, but this then needs to be printed and send off. No email option exists.
You either 1, Send on order in on paper, using the mail
2, Send a fax
Both options work and Mr Navwar does have a quick turn around.
Regards
Lee
Quote from: hammurabi70 on 21 March 2023, 09:34:42 PMMany thanks; most kind. You seem to have BIG plans with so many fleets!
I don't have all those fleets, they are the "Starter Fleets" for £13.50, the contents of which aren't on the website.
Regards
Lee
Duplicate (removed)
Quote from: fred. on 13 March 2023, 08:16:47 PMDoesn't one have your man print off a copy to peruse over you early morning cup of tea?
My early morning cup of tea is delivered to me in bed by Mrs Orcs. I think getting her to print off documents and bring them to me with my tea might jeopardize both the tea and my good health.
QuoteI'm afraid I don't have photographs.
I was really impressed by the sharp detail.
This allows a wash to really pick up the details.
I tend to do ship recognition by silhouette, and have no problem distinguishing battleships and cruisers at that scale.
I would most certainly struggle if a battle involved a mix of destroyer classes.
A follow up, since I obtained the Nimitz rules last week and dug out my 1/6000s for a couple fo solo plays.
First up, like many smaller scales (eg 6mm figures) I had forgotten how truly tiny they were.
A battleship is about 4cm long, dome destroyers about 16mm.
My eyesight has faded since I obtained and painted these models.
This means I cannot easily make out all their detail, and I cannot read the tiny recognition codes I once inscribed on their base tabs.
I solved this potential problem by snipping up Post it notes and sticking a piece under each base with a visible recognition code protruding.
The other problem is locating the actual aim point as specified by the Nimitz rules (The centre funnel).
I switched to using the front of the base.
This worked, but created some odd geometries where ships apparently at broadsides were actually shooting from their rear arc.
I'll review this in future.
Having played a couple of small games solo, I thought I'd share impressions.
The rules are well written and generally elegant.
I found myself suffering the dreaded WRG "brain fog" into relatively small games.
Several factors could be at play here:
* Playing new rules and playing solo.
* Handling rosters, shooting factors and the sole look up table (I've lost the habit of going form roster to QRS to table).
* The grey cells decelerating with age.
I hope this will improve with practice and when playing with live opponents.
Moving on to gameplay.
The game is extremely streamlined, and much detail is abstracted.
It manages to maintain a ship's character. You will use its actual guns and torpedoes. Speed and Armour are abstracted into a number of bands.
Guns operate in two range bands.
This surprisingly works given the generous movement allowances.
There is no massive pile of hitpoints to write down, instead each ship has two damage tracks: structure and buoyancy.
Gunfire reduces structure while torpedoes reduce buoyancy.
When either falls "into the red" the ship becomes crippled and various subsystems degrade.
Gunnery hits can also cause the misleadingly named "criticals".
I regard a critical as something that does exceptional amounts of damage.
In Nimitz, criticals are systems hits, losing items like turrets (primary or secondary), torpedoes, gun directors or the infamous magazine hit (Subject to armour penetration).
Missing is any way for a lucky gun hit to cause engine damage and reduce the enemy speed.
Only torpedoes can do this, through ships do slow down when crippled.
I considered this an omission.
Movement is generous.
A clever turn sequence (slower ships moving earlier) and restrictive turning (One turn in a move, up to 90 degrees) still present challenges in lining up the perfect shot.
Even playing solo, I found it difficult to position my destroyers for a torpedo launch.
And every turn they spent within range of enemy secondaries, they are in real danger.
The movement looks nothing like the elegant tracks you'll find in books describing naval battles.
I sense an element of chess, where opponents will gradually adapt tactics to protect their ships when moving first, but leaving aggressive moves open when playing second.
Rather like a snooker game, thinking several moves ahead will likely pay dividends.
A final minor gripe is the length of time required to finish off damaged an unsupported enemies.
The dice can conspire to miss against even a stationary hulk a close range.
The "criticals" can see your mortal blow fail to punch through armour, and the shells sail through the gap where the gun director once stood.
Other dud shots are possible like criticals against secondaries or torpedo types on ships that have none.
Nimitz gives a quick game that requires thinking.
Ships feel and behave like their historic counterparts.
Abstraction has been used to simplify and streamline the game, with the occasional odd result occurring.
And occasionally your dice will treat you abominably.
The abstraction is such that most battleships feel quite distinctive:
The Queen Elizabeths and R-class are similar but have differences.
Japanse Fuso and Ise classes are similar enough to share a template, as do the American North Carolinas and South Dakotas.
Down at cruiser level, the abstraction begins to flatten differences.
While 8" guns are rated large (and can potentially hurt battleshile) while 6" guns are small, speed and damage tracks are pretty similar for ships that obeyed the 10,000 ton treaty limit.
When it comes to destroyers, there are relatively few distinctions.
All have similar buoyancy and speed, but differ in armament.
My very limited experience is that battles work best up to one step of difference.
Battleships and Cruisers, or cruisers and destroyers.
Destroyers in a battleship fight will whizz about looking for Torpedo shots, but will each consume as much game time as teh capital ships.
Consider how some Horse and musket wargame rules have very fussy skirmish rules, and you spend 80% of yoru time evaluating largely indecisive skirmish actions.
There's certainly a danger of destroyers doing this here: Taking long odds shots in the home of hitting a battleship's radar, or limping about the table in a crippled state.
Destroyers certainly have their place, but I didn't use them well in my playtests.
Rather than an aggressive opener, hold them back to finish off enemy cripples, or save them for night actions.
I sense there's a good game in Nimitz if I can persuade my landlubber opponents to weight anchor and damn the torpedoes.
It doesn't do everything I hoped, but is the best set of naval rules for my needs.
Steve - I have GQ1/2 - would you say Nimitz is a better option? I've been looking at getting back into WW2 Naval.
For aiming point, would it be with considering some sort of markers on each side of the midpoint of the base?
QuoteSteve - I have GQ1/2 - would you say Nimitz is a better option? I've been looking at getting back into WW2 Naval.
For aiming point, would it be with considering some sort of markers on each side of the midpoint of the base?
I prefer Nimitz to GQ 1/2.
I've played both and GQ felt like more of a grind and required a much larger table (even at centimetre scale).
Both work on abstractions, though Nimitz typically uses fewer, broader categories (I consider them well chosen).
Nimitz, for example, avoids the need for elaborate calculations.
It uses two range bands for two weights of gun.
* Fear not, your 16" guns will do more damage than competing 14" or 8" "Heavy" guns.It uses three armour ratings for battleships and three for cruisers.
Its torpedo method is similar enough to gunfire to not grind the game to a halt.
Something I neglected to mention is that Nimitz comes with a campaign system Halsey.
I've not read the Halsey part of the book yet, so son't comment on how it plays.
I have established that its map moves take place on a squared grid.
It introduces airstrikes, submarines, repairs (and frogmen if you're Italian).
All the stuff that actually happened, but isn't easily accommodated on a tabletop.
I've considered adding dots to the side of my ship's bases to mark their location.
I think I have about 250 little boats, so that's a lot of work.
I'm also considering adding an offset mark to the templates, which isn't as precise.
But it involves updating just four items instead of 250.
QuoteI found myself suffering the dreaded WRG "brain fog" into relatively small games.
Several factors could be at play here:
* Playing new rules and playing solo.
* Handling rosters, shooting factors and the sole look up table (I've lost the habit of going form roster to QRS to table).
* The grey cells decelerating with age.
I hope this will improve with practice and when playing with live opponents.
I think it will be a lot to do with new rules and playing solo. I find that a second player helps with remembering key bits of the rules - or at least challenging when they think something is wrong / not in their favour!
The same with playing both sides, it takes more mental effort.
Will be interested to see how the games develop as you get more familiar - I suspect there is a role for destroyers, otherwise they would have been abstracted away. Sam's Rommel only has Tanks, Infantry and Artillery. All other unit types are abstracted away - so he's not afraid to take some pretty radical design choices to get a game of the right scale.
QuoteI think it will be a lot to do with new rules and playing solo. I find that a second player helps with remembering key bits of the rules - or at least challenging when they think something is wrong / not in their favour!
The same with playing both sides, it takes more mental effort.
Will be interested to see how the games develop as you get more familiar - I suspect there is a role for destroyers, otherwise they would have been abstracted away. Sam's Rommel only has Tanks, Infantry and Artillery. All other unit types are abstracted away - so he's not afraid to take some pretty radical design choices to get a game of the right scale.
Yes, I expect growing familiarity and a second player will help.
I'm working on the assumption that Destroyer's role will be similar to that in the 1930s - 40s.
* Blowing up bigger ships with torpedoes.
* Chasing off enemy destroyers.
* Blowing up submarines (in campaign games).
I think their lack of impact in my early game reflected my lack of sailing ability.
I presently have all the skills of a submarine deckhand in the Zimbabwean navy.
This ought to improve with practice.
Not played Nimitz but heard some pretty good comments about them.
I'm a long term GQ 1/2 player myself. They tick all my WW1/2 naval boxes and are very good at handling night actions and torpedoes etc while also reflecting historical differences between various navies.
Seconded, looking forward to using GQ 1/2 in the Med next weekend :)
I still think the Strategic 'set' should have been Nimitz and the tactical 'set' Halsey (assuming they favour rash aggression ;) )