Hi everyone. I have been lurking this site for months untill I finally decided to start collecting at 10mm scale and join this forum.
I started in wargaming with Warhammer about twenty years ago. I have a dark elves warhammer army and some historical armies (Greek, Persian, Romans) based for Field of Glory. All of them in 28mm. I also have some 1/72 WW2 models that I used some years ago to play Rapid Fire.
I already ordered some fantasy models. I hope to evangelize some friends into 10mm too once I get my figures and start playing. The low volume consumption in addition to the mass-effect of 10mm figures sounds great. I also never painted 10mm so this place will be of great help for tips. Hope to contribute.
Regards,
Daldnoa
Welcome to the Forum daldnoa. You will find many great 10mm painters here and all very helpful.
Welcome.
I am not a great 10mm painter. There are some real talents on here, but not me. I'm less a "it's well painted" and more a "well, it's painted" type of chap.
Photos please, and I hope you will enter the painting competition.
Welcome to the forum!
If you've been lurking for months I can forgo my usual "the forumites here have many fine qualities but are mad as a box of frogs" intro. You'll have discovered that for yourself :)
On the painting of 10mm I would say that slightly lighter shades of colour than you would use on a 28mm figures often work better on 10mm figures.
Other than that, there are far better painters on the forum than I so I will leave it to them to advise you further!
Hello and welcome
Welcome on board :) !
Welcome aboard from me too.....if you have questions on anything 10mm you're in the right place :)
Welcome to the Forum!
There is rejoicing in Heaven at a new convert! Welcome aboard, and remember it's good luck to buy a round for anyone who posts in reply to one of your posts.
Welcome Daldnoa :-h
Quote.....if you have questions on anything 10mm you're in the right place :)
I joined in 2013 with questions. Still waiting for answers. :P
Welcome on board Daldona, painting wise my main tip would be to remember you are painting armies, not individuals. Focus on the main colours of the figure, there are lots of details on many of the figures, but these can be approached in a simple single colour fashion.
Unless of course you want to paint each figure like its a 28mm one - which can be done and there are some wonderful examples to see.
Welcome to bedlam.
Probably spot on considering that one of the iterations of Bedlam is now the Imperial War Museum - this place is equal parts madness and military history.*
(https://media.iwm.org.uk/ciim5/27/174/large_000000.jpg) (https://historyhouse.co.uk/gfx/imperial_war_museum.jpg)
*No, I'm not equating madness** and fantasy.
** Apologies if anyone is offended by the word "madness". I use it for alliterative purposes.
Hello and welcome!
I find painting 10mm quite a joy, as the figures have plenty of detail but it's not fiddly in way that's hard to describe. Pendraken figures have been imbibed with some kind of magic metal that makes painting them easy. I can do 2x 10mm figures in the time it takes to do a 15mm figure.
I have negated that advantage by using 1:10 figure ratio for 10mm Napoleonics rather than 1:20 in 15mm :-\ , but the mass effect is worth it.
A simple tip is to paint by units. So if you had an army of elves and orcs, paint a "battalion" of orc spears then a battalion of elf swords then a battalion of orc archers etc etc, or whatever your equivalent units are.
Another idea is to base them before you paint them, works for 6mm and 10mm but not 15mm and above.
If your figures are to be based in two ranks, which my Napoleonics are, and it's difficult to get into the front of the back rank to paint them if both are pre-based - I glue the front rank onto the base and paint them, then paint the second rank as loose figures, glue them on later.
Mark
QuoteI find painting 10mm quite a joy,
Amen!
QuoteI have negated that advantage by using 1:10 figure ratio for 10mm Napoleonics rather than 1:20 in 15mm :-\ , but the mass effect is worth it.
Agreed. I prefer a unit of 60, 70, 80, 90 figures to one of 24.
QuoteA simple tip is to paint by units. So if you had an army of elves and orcs, paint a "battalion" of orc spears then a battalion of elf swords then a battalion of orc archers etc etc, or whatever your equivalent units are.
Agreed. I find mixing it keeps my interest.
QuoteAnother idea is to base them before you paint them, works for 6mm and 10mm but not 15mm and above.
If your figures are to be based in two ranks, which my Napoleonics are, and it's difficult to get into the front of the back rank to paint them if both are pre-based - I glue the front rank onto the base and paint them, then paint the second rank as loose figures, glue them on later.
That's an interesting idea. :-\ Don't think it would work for me, as most of my Napoleonics are in 3 ranks, but I shall bear that in mind as a possibility.
Welcome to the forum
Quote from: fsn on 14 January 2023, 09:13:36 PMWelcome.
I am not a great 10mm painter. There are some real talents on here, but not me. I'm less a "it's well painted" and more a "well, it's painted" type of chap.
He is telling fibs, all the photos i have seen are of rather nice figures.
Quote from: fsn on 15 January 2023, 07:54:58 AMI joined in 2013 with questions. Still waiting for answers. :P
Yes but those questions were for another more "adult site" . You posted them here by mistake. :)
Thank you for the warm welcome!
Quote from: fsn on 14 January 2023, 09:13:36 PMI am not a great 10mm painter. There are some real talents on here, but not me. I'm less a "it's well painted" and more a "well, it's painted" type of chap.
I'm certainly in the same group. Specially when having to paint several identical figures.
Quote from: Ithoriel on 14 January 2023, 09:32:50 PMOn the painting of 10mm I would say that slightly lighter shades of colour than you would use on a 28mm figures often work better on 10mm figures.
Thanks for the advice. Is it because lighter colours help to differentiate units and equipment in small warriors?
Quote from: sultanbev on 15 January 2023, 10:24:55 AMA simple tip is to paint by units. So if you had an army of elves and orcs, paint a "battalion" of orc spears then a battalion of elf swords then a battalion of orc archers etc etc, or whatever your equivalent units are.
Quote from: fred. on 15 January 2023, 08:45:39 AMWelcome on board Daldona, painting wise my main tip would be to remember you are painting armies, not individuals. Focus on the main colours of the figure, there are lots of details on many of the figures, but these can be approached in a simple single colour fashion.
Great advice from both! I guess nobody will notice a weird face paint job from a single soldier in the battlefield. I'm still not sure what basing will use, but I'll try to make it compatible with many systems and try to put as many figures I can. I like the mass-effect.
QuoteHe is telling fibs, all the photos i have seen are of rather nice figures.
Too kind. :-[
QuoteYes but those questions were for another more "adult site" . You posted them here by mistake. :)
Indeed, but on that other site the young lady with the aversion to clothes was very knowledgeable about the Punic Wars. :-\
The use lighter colours advice is to do with the physics of light - basically because the figures are smaller there is less area so a slightly lighter tone ends up looking more like you would expect.
And in general lighter / brighter colours seems to pop more on minis.
I'm not very good at doing either of the above!
Quote from: daldnoa on 15 January 2023, 06:18:24 PMThanks for the advice. Is it because lighter colours help to differentiate units and equipment in small warriors?
Because of the way the brain process the images from the eye small blobs of colour can look darker than they are, apparently. A slightly lighter shade often looks right, even though it's not.
or "Wot fred said" :)
Welcome, from me, too !
Quote from: Ithoriel on 15 January 2023, 11:35:16 PMBecause of the way the brain process the images from the eye small blobs of colour can look darker than they are, apparently. A slightly lighter shade often looks right, even though it's not.
Can't say I've ever bothered or even noticed in 45 years of painting models and wargames figures. I have painting guides I use for Humbrol, Colour Party Paints & Miniature Paints, and I use the same for all scales.
Mark
Quote from: sultanbev on 17 January 2023, 09:25:07 AMCan't say I've ever bothered or even noticed in 45 years of painting models and wargames figures. I have painting guides I use for Humbrol, Colour Party Paints & Miniature Paints, and I use the same for all scales.
Mark
Same here.
Interesting.
I went through a phase of priming in white, but I have to changed black. IMHO it brings the overall look together better than white, but it does give a darker figure.
I agree though, if I'm painting a British redcoat it's scarlet - whatever the size of the figure.
Welcome! Since we are now in a bit of a discussion of painting techniques I thought I would offer my two-pennorth. I am very much a journeyman painter, and the bigger the figure, the more it exposes my inability to manage shades and highlights. 10mm and 6mm however play to my strengths. They both repay sharp contrasts, and on a black undercoat this is easy to achieve, as you can leave a little black between one colour and another, and it automatically delineates and shades at the same time. The main skill required, I find, is precision. If you can keep your paint within the beautifully cast details on the figures (not as hard as it sounds, as it is often just a dot of paint, then the technique does the rest. Devote a bit of time to your basing and flags, and Bob's your Uncle! I am sure you will enjoy experimenting and, as others have said, the Painting Competition is really inspiring. Enter, and join the fun!
Thanks for the tip! I'm not sure if I'm going to get my order and paint something decent enough on time for the Painting Competition, though. But I will enjoy watching other people works, for sure.
QuoteWelcome! Since we are now in a bit of a discussion of painting techniques I thought I would offer my two-pennorth. I am very much a journeyman painter, and the bigger the figure, the more it exposes my inability to manage shades and highlights. 10mm and 6mm however play to my strengths. They both repay sharp contrasts, and on a black undercoat this is easy to achieve, as you can leave a little black between one colour and another, and it automatically delineates and shades at the same time. The main skill required, I find, is precision. If you can keep your paint within the beautifully cast details on the figures (not as hard as it sounds, as it is often just a dot of paint, then the technique does the rest. Devote a bit of time to your basing and flags, and Bob's your Uncle! I am sure you will enjoy experimenting and, as others have said, the Painting Competition is really inspiring. Enter, and join the fun!
This is a very good point - I couldn't possible paint what I do (which isn't great) without following the lines the sculptor has created.
Regarding the 'paint lighter' advice it is interesting how few people follow this perceived wisdom. Perhaps it isn't really a thing?
Quote from: fsn on 15 January 2023, 06:19:25 PMIndeed, but on that other site the young lady with the aversion to clothes was very knowledgeable about the Punic Wars. :-\
I think there is at least one spelling mistake in that sentence.
QuoteI think there is at least one spelling mistake in that sentence.
;)
QuoteThis is a very good point - I couldn't possible paint what I do (which isn't great) without following the lines the sculptor has created.
Regarding the 'paint lighter' advice it is interesting how few people follow this perceived wisdom. Perhaps it isn't really a thing?
I agree with the first comment, sometimes it feels as if the paint just flows onto that detail you've been wondering how the &^%*&^ am I going to paint that
I definitely paint lighter on 6mm & 10mm
I use a light grey undercoat and use a wash to give the separation and shading (which is another reason I painter even lighter)
Painting is very much about finding approaches that work for you, and remembering you are painting armies not individuals