Request for advice.
I have three really useful boxes (a4 page footprint).
Also three A4 sheets of mild steel.
Last summer I fixed the steel into the boxes using silicone sealant (The stickiest substance known to mankind).
What could possibly go wrong?
Opened the "elephant" box today to fins one A4 steel sheet with a load of silicone underneath.
Most definitely NOT stuck to the inside of the really useful box.
This is supposed to be a "storage and transport" solution, so having my heffalumps (some ridden by flimsy parasol beareres) bouncing around in the car boot isn't part of the plan.
Can anybody with practical experience, recomend an adhesive that will stick to a steel sheet and areally useful box.
Thanks.
My suggestion would be to invest in some of the MDF trays From Walt at Commission figurines. and then stick the steel to them. he does a variety of depths but if you are only using one layer ,the base depth is irrelevant.
The "yarkshire gamer" on his blog has used some of the RUB upside down so the figures are based on MDF he has screwed to the lid, as he could not find a way to stick them.
http://yarkshiregamer.blogspot.com/
If you click on the 28mm Italian wars section and scroll down you will find the video.
Just lasered do some Foam trays for A4 RUB, postage is very expensive though
https://justlasered.co.uk/shop/pick-n-pluck/
I have some MDF Really Useful Box trays from Warbases (https://warbases.co.uk/product-category/accessories/rub-inserts/) which I've found to be really useful too! :)
Double sided tape would be my first choice. Silicone sealant and the RUB plastic will stick together, but after a while it is very easy for it to peel away as the silicone dries out. Ditto the mild steel.
I line my 4L really useful box edges with cardboard to keep the light out. I use Copydex glue (bought mine in Rymans) in a small bottle with a brush and just to 'spot' gluing, 2 blobs per side. The latex type glue seems to have held everything in place without issue.
The only qualifier I would make, that may need some research is that in my use, one surface is porous (the card) and obviously the other (the plastic) is not ....... However, I also use copydex to glue figures (metal / plastic) to painting sticks (wood dowel) and they hold good until ready to prise away. I have noticed that the glue gets harder over a number of days.
Don't know if this would work, Steve, but have you tried 'roughing up' the surface of the really useful boxes with glass paper ?...Might give more of a key to 'the glue'
I've got lots of small really useful boxes that I use to pack and send masters to Leon.
The surfaces of those are VERY smooth and shiny, and I wouldn't really expect anything to stick to those surfaces without 'keying' them first.
Cheers - Phil. :)
Gorilla Glue - it sticks anything & everything (including fingers) but once stuck that it is it ... it is well & truly stuck! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: Ithoriel on 17 August 2021, 12:39:24 AM
I have some MDF Really Useful Box trays from Warbases (https://warbases.co.uk/product-category/accessories/rub-inserts/) which I've found to be really useful too! :)
I think Walt has more depth options and is a bit cheaper.
Quote from: Techno II on 17 August 2021, 07:17:20 AM
Don't know if this would work, Steve, but have you tried 'roughing up' the surface of the really useful boxes with glass paper ?...Might give more of a key to 'the glue'
Exactly. I line my Really Useful trays with a non-slip liner. I score the inside of the tray and use an impact adhesive, such as Evo stick. Never had a problem. You definitely need something for the adhesive to key onto.
Quote from: Big Insect on 17 August 2021, 07:36:07 AM
Gorilla Glue - it sticks anything & everything (including fingers) but once stuck that it is it ... it is well & truly stuck! ;D ;D ;D
Inculding Fingers Mark ? :D
Thanks all, I'll make a start with double-sided tape, with a few other solutions up my sleeve in case that fails.
Norm: What's the motivation to keep the light out?
Quote from: Lord Kermit of Birkenhead on 17 August 2021, 10:08:09 AM
Inculding Fingers Mark ? :D
Yup - I had to use a scalpel to separate a couple of fingers that I'd accidently stuck to a figure a while back - not at all pleasant!
Is it called Gorilla Glue because it is made to stick gorillas, or because it is made from gorillas? :-\
I mean, wood glue is not made from wood, and you don't use PVA glue to stick ... PVA.
I would second Walt at Commission Figurines, I have used quite a few of this mdf liners in my RUB collection!
Quote from: fsn on 17 August 2021, 04:40:33 PM
Is it called Gorilla Glue because it is made to stick gorillas, or because it is made from gorillas? I mean, wood glue is not made from wood, and you don't use PVA glue to stick ... PVA.
Well, what do you use duck tape for?
Quote from: Big Insect on 17 August 2021, 07:36:07 AM
Gorilla Glue - it sticks anything & everything (including fingers) but once stuck that it is it ... it is well & truly stuck! ;D ;D ;D
What kind of Gorilla Glue? There are several kinds.
Coming to this thread a bit late - but it would be worth checking that the bottom of the RUB is actually flat. I put an MDF sheet with cut outs for 2p pieces in one, using doubled sided tape to hold down, but discovered that towards the middle there was a bit of a dip and the figures ended up under the MDF sheet. The difference was just a couple of mm, but may be part of the reason why the metal is coming away. Some kind of gap filling glue would be useful (which I suspect the silicon sealant is).
I'm also a fan of the Commission Figurine trays - they enable me to get many layers of figures and tanks into a RUB - often to the degree that 9L become a bit of a weight lifting challenge!
Quote from: Raider4 on 17 August 2021, 05:17:44 PM
Well, what do you use duck tape for?
That's between me and my therapist.
Quote from: steve_holmes_11 on 17 August 2021, 10:12:01 AM
Thanks all, I'll make a start with double-sided tape, with a few other solutions up my sleeve in case that fails.
Norm: What's the motivation to keep the light out?
Steve, it is mainly just to protect those armies that carry paper flags. It may be an unnecessary step, but I do it anyway. The sides are card lined and the lid on the top box has a fablon type covering, again to keep the light down. I know some people have their units behind glass in display cases for years without detriment, so perhaps I am being too cautious, no doubt others will add their experiences of knowledge on the subject of UV.
CT1
Make sure you de-grease and lightly abrade both surfaces
Quote from: chrishanley on 17 August 2021, 07:47:56 PM
CT1
Make sure you de-grease and lightly abrade both surfaces
Is that on the Gorilla's or the Ducks?
Quote from: John Cook on 17 August 2021, 05:20:39 PM
What kind of Gorilla Glue? There are several kinds.
Ugandan Mountain Gorilla?
Quote from: fred. on 17 August 2021, 06:25:30 PM
Coming to this thread a bit late - but it would be worth checking that the bottom of the RUB is actually flat. I put an MDF sheet with cut outs for 2p pieces in one, using doubled sided tape to hold down, but discovered that towards the middle there was a bit of a dip and the figures ended up under the MDF sheet. The difference was just a couple of mm, but may be part of the reason why the metal is coming away. Some kind of gap filling glue would be useful (which I suspect the silicon sealant is).
I'm also a fan of the Commission Figurine trays - they enable me to get many layers of figures and tanks into a RUB - often to the degree that 9L become a bit of a weight lifting challenge!
This is true, the base has a bit of flex to it, and the structure of the box means it isn't flush with any ground surface.
I'll investigate that as a potential cause for the sealant unpeeling.
Update:
I've fixed my steel sheets in by looping duct tape to create double sided pads.
Time will tell whether that holds, or whether they will gradually peel away under duress.
Meanwhile I've found a supplier that ships the 4L boxes lined with a self adhesive ferro sheet.
I hope it's OK posting this here, since I don't see any competition with existing Pendraken / Minibits stuff.
https://magneticdisplays.co.uk/magnetic-displays/ferro%20sheet (https://magneticdisplays.co.uk/magnetic-displays/ferro%20sheet)
The Ferro sheet is that flexible rubber stuff infused with something that sticks to magnets, but isn't magnetized.
I've not tried it yet, but imagine the following pros and cons.
+1: Sheet is flexible, so less likely to part company from the flexible polythene box than a hard bit of steel (like what I use).
+1: Sheet is rubberised, so less likely to rust than a pure pit of mild steel (LWIU).
-1: There's less magnetic "stuff" per area, so probably less grabby than the steel.
-1: If it flexes with the box base (which is good for remaining attached to the box), it will be less grabby for the minis protected within the box.
LWIU, stuff and grabby are all approved scientific terms, comparable to, but not defined within the SI system.
Quote from: John Cook on 17 August 2021, 05:20:39 PM
What kind of Gorilla Glue? There are several kinds.
The instant super-glue type.
I've also used the wood-glue - that also works well for wood-on-wood fixing.
But neither are cheap