I am getting back into painting wargaming figures after a long absence and I notice that putting flock onto bases now seems to be ubiquitous, at least if you look at modelling and painting videos. When I was a lad this was practically unheard of, and the standard was to pretty much to just put a coat of grass green paint on a base and leave it at that. Admittedly in those days it was also more common to just use single figures and not stick multiple figures to the base. Now when getting into 10mm figures having multiple figures on a base makes a lot of sense, but I am inclined to add a bit of texture filler to conceal the individual figures bases then to just paint the filler and earth and or grass colour. I am a bit reluctant though to flock the bases, this is partly to save a bit of work and money but mostly to avoid mess from flock shedding over time. This is not to say that there is anything wrong with flocking, it does give a nice realistic effect and is ideal for high quality representation particularly at larger scales, but for me wargaming figures are primarily a means to an end of playing the game, although I do like a certain level of aesthetic appeal which is why I prefer painted figures to counters or blocks. Anyway I was wondering if there are are others like me out there who prefer just to paint their bases.
I prefer mine textured and flocked these days , although I used oo only texture to loose the base and paint it green.
I am not sure what i am going to do when I revisit my old 15mm Mikes models as most of those are based in Milliput omd just painted green. so rebasing may be a nightmare if I do anything but texture and paint.
I fully understand about the flock shedding, although the flocking is fairly quick when get into a flow.
I did it that way for decades, but bought a printed games mat last year and realised I had to upgrade. If you are serious about it when you apply your second coat of sealant, the flock doesn't shed (which was a relief; I too feared it would).
Reposting from last year, in the hope it may be of use to you.
Since I have recently flocked the bases on about 40 armies, let me share my experience. What I'm writing here is stuff I'd have profited from knowing a few months ago. There are doubtless many to whom this will be of no interest, so take advance warning not to waste your time; this isn't a masterclass.
1) Making the flock Visit a sawmill or carpenter's workshop. Have a big bag and get much more sawdust than you think you'll want. My original shopping list would have got me about 20% of what I've used if my wife hadn't persuaded me to get a lot extra.
Once you're home, sift it until only powder remains. Mix this with cheap acryllic paint. Make several colours; I've found a sandy yellow and a mid olive green the most useful types. Dry it well on a sheet of wax paper or similar. Grind it in a cheap blender, since it will be far too coarse, and then sieve it once more. A mix of about three or four parts green to one sandy yellow makes a good meadow grass effect.
I've also found that raw, undyed sawdust can be similarly treated to yield a useful earth effect. Mixed with some dried grounds from our espresso for dark flecks, it gives a useful flock; a little sandy yellow can be added.
2) Basing I cut out standard-sized pieces of postcard and run a coloured felt tip around the rims to match the playing surface. With longer bases than usual, I sometimes stiffen them by glueing on a section of paper clip to resist warping (plastic covered is best - rust is seldom your friend). I now cover them in small numbers at a time with quick set epoxy glue, doing four or five in a batch. A drop of base colour mixed in the glue is helpful - burnt umber or yellow ochre (even burnt Sienna for Zululand, perhaps?). I've used a dull green too; it's a matter of how much detail you want. Something matching the paint on the metal figures' bases is desireable. Figures, filed flat under the bases, are set into the glue and left to dry thoroughly. It might be feasible to sprinkle flock on at this stage, but my instincts warn me not to complicate things; epoxy is messy to work with and time is tight.
3) First covering For decades I used unflocked bases to match the plain cloths I played on; having now bought a pretty mousepad games mat with printed surfaces, I have had to upgrade (whence this tutorial), but I think I was right to wait. In the old days, I just painted the epoxy to match the cloth, and it's this finish that I've been flocking over. If you've gone straight to flocking and have coloured your epoxy with a spot of pigment, you probably don't need to paint the surface with colours. I've found the most cost-effective approach is to begin with boulders, aka bits of kitty litter (you don't need a lot, so don't be stingy and unhygenic - use clean stuff). Glue them directly to the bases; I find Elmer's all-purpose is excellent here, though Europeans may use something else. Think a bit about where the army is operating; an English meadow has few rocks in it, since they've all long been turned into building material, camels will avoid rocky going since it hurts their feet (I haven't used any boulders on my Midianite army), and so on. You may also prefer to add boulders later, but I think this way they're a bit more firmly attached.
If you're fronding (see below), this is definitely the time to do it.
Get two brushes that you don't intend to paint with any more, and keep them in water. Mix up 30% wood glue (Elmer's again here, but there are plenty of others), a dash of washing-up liquid (for flow quality), and 70% alcohol. Avoid methyl alcohol, which is more poisonous than most and has fumes, and Cointreau, which is expensive. The mixture stores well in a sealed container. Put what you're using in a narrow vessel to reduce evaporation while you work. Paint it onto the bases, then dip them in a tray with your flock. It's best to use a shallow scooping motion, then angle them and shake the powder over the rest; excess is a real nuisance later. I have been pleased with the effect of using a brown and sandy mix here, then applying more glue in a few spots and sprinkling on my green mix. You needn't cover the whole base if you've painted an earth brown undercoat; grass doesn't always grow everywhere in a uniform carpet.
After applying this layer I often put a dab of Elmer's all purpose glue onto a small tuft of green pot scourer, and apply this to a base for a bit of vegetation. Again, this doesn't belong everywhere. For my 1943 Western Desert forces I put it on about 25% of the bases; I haven't used it at all for my Incas, though they have green bases.
Don't be alarmed if the glue mixture is a bit milky and opaque; it dries very clear, and won't even show if you splash a bit on your figures (honestly!). If you glue flock on them, however, you want to clear it off, which is why you've got that second brush in a water pot. Clean up your boulders too.
4) Finishing After all this has dried - and I mean dried! Be patient - paint on a second layer. This is important; the first won't hold the stuff securely, but the second will. Use a brush with soft, supple bristles, and paint in smooth, gentle strokes. It is imperative to remember that while the second coat is a liquid, it's a solvent, so it will try to undo the adhesive work of the first coat. Get it applied before it disolves the first layer, or you will find your brush is lifting off much of the flock.
Dry this on a sheet of plastic or foil. If you're like me, you'll have sloshed glue all over everything, and the base will end up glued to the surface it's resting on; if this is waterproof, however, removing it isn't hard.
5) And if you prefer, you could attach your boulders, scourer tufts, and other bits at this stage. That Elmer's all purpose is strong stuff, but I like the extra security of the glue washes. You can expect a little flock shedding, particularly if you put it on with a heavy hand initially, but the main layer, soaked with a sort of laquer, is tough. I haven't gone for hairspray; I've read too many warnings that it doesn't last beyond few years.
6) Other cover I have used a lot of little plastic fronds from florists, cut into sections of about 6mm and attached before flocking, using blobs of wall putty coloured to match the bases. When this has dried, it can be glued over and flocked like the rest. This is a bit more laborious than the scourer vegetation, however, and I haven't used it everywhere.
A few army-specific bits are sometimes possible. My berserkir have bases littered with discarded shields, as do my Viking archers, though I'm troubled by the thought that these would be face-down for easy grabbing...maybe you want to make sure you don't accidentally steal the shield of Thorvald, son of Gutrune the Strong, that killed Bjorn...shut up!...and my 21st Lancers, whom I have in mounted and dismounted states, have their lances lying at their feet. It's tempting to put on casualties, but think about practicalities - a mutilated Greek in full hoplite gear in the wake of a scythed chariot will look very atmospheric, until you want to use your Persians against Scythians or Indians. Better to have a mangled corpse in a nondescript tunic, and Peckinpah gore effects.
Thank you for your patience, if you've read this far!
I use sand with flock (if appropriate) - the spray varnish seems to hold it well. If you are doing terrain no need to varnish - chaep hair spary works to hold it in place.
I've been a "paint only" baser.
It doesn't look good compared to a bit of flock.
The best bases I've seen are painted an earthshade, and then partially flocked leaving bare patches visible.
Quote from: steve_holmes_11 on 28 February 2021, 08:43:34 PM
I've been a "paint only" baser.
It doesn't look good compared to a bit of flock.
The best bases I've seen are painted an earthshade, and then partially flocked leaving bare patches visible.
I came to this technique myself after much experimentation Steve. I went through a 'sand period' - where I stuck the figures to the base, then used a course sand, that I washed with a dark ink and then dry-brushed with a slightly brown-white and then added flock - it looked fab but was very laborious.
I now use a cheap household DIY filler - which can be sculpted whilst wet/tacky to create some great effects. I let this dry thoroughly and then wash with Games Workshop Steel Legion Drab - more dilute washes for dryer ground and darker washes for damp ground or around rocks etc. I paint around the base edge (I base on 2mm MDF) a dark brown.
When that is dry I use a 1mm or 2mm static grass (appropriately coloured) stuck on with washes of PVA. I invested in a static grass applicator and it has been a god-send.
If the PVA is thick enough - not too thick or it goes shiny - you can get a good fix for the static grass.
At this stage I use a household vacuum cleaner - and I hold the base about 6 inches away from the turned-on nozzle - it tends to remove any loose static grass for good.
I will then add assorted clumps and tufts - although for close order infantry I usually don't bother with this.
I use a similar technique on 6mm, 10mm, 15mm and 28mm. It works well, for me. It also means I can mix & match units across armies - so a unit of 28mm Mercenary Hellenistic Peltasts can be used in pretty much any of my Hellenistic armies, even some of my Punic Wars armies as well.
The advantage of the filler is also that it is pretty easy to rebase figures as I just stand the bases in water overnight (up to the figures feet/ankles) and the filler will loosen very easily after that.
Cheers
Mark
PS: I particularly like the basing of the Falklands Wars Argentinian Infantry force in this years painting competition - you really get the impression of damp and boggy ground with a covering of scrub and bog plants/bushes.
If you douse a flocked base in watered down PVA and let it dry it'll usually become very solid and not shed, especially after a varnish. The flock absorbs the watery PVA then solidifies as it evaluates.
For 2mm I'd usually just texture and paint, but a little flock or grass on 10mm looks good. It depends on the base density and terrain type too. Bigger bases or lower figure density works well flocked but a dense base of figures may just need texture, paint and a little flock or grass.
But I can completely see why you'd be happy with painted bases, once in the flow of the game you'll not overly notice. Looks nice though and isn't too time consuming to do if you add while the base is drying so all one step.
i stick to vallejo dark earth texture pastefor my bases, drybrushed and then patches of static grass.
The first thing to say is you can do whatever you like. Nowhere 'is it written' that stands have to be decorated, and the fact of the matter is that figures are no more than counters and you can use pieces of coloured card to represent units just as effectively but, as you suggest, they don't look so good.
The reason, I think, why decorating stands has become more common is the fact that wargames terrain has also become more sophisticated, particularly with the advent of games mats, so plain stands just don't cut it anymore.
I've been mounting figures on stands since the early 1970s when Minifigs bought out the first 15mm figures but the green paint finish was as far as it went, decorating stands was, as you say, unheard of in those days. I've been decorating bases since I switched to 10mm in the mid-1980s, when 10 High ACW figures appeared and this is my method.
I have a number of plastic containers for the various materials that I use but the first thing I do is paint the base in dark earth. Then I apply the unit label, on the top trailing edge of the stand and a more comprehensive description underneath. This is produced using adhesive label software.
The top and sides of the stand are then sealed with PVA glue solution, about a 50/50 water/glue mix.
When dry I apply PVA glue and dip the base in the first container which has a mortar mix, the kind used for brickwork, left over from when I had an extension built. This dries to a hard light earth colour with a rough finish. Cost nil.
It would make rebasing hard work but I haven't rebased any stands of figures in 35 years so it isn't an issue for me and, as and aside, I have never understood the need to rebase figures. I find adapting rules much simpler.
Next, I apply a couple of touches of PVA and dip the stand into the next container which contains some grit, the kind that model railway buffs use for ballast. Go for grit advertised for N-Gauge. If the figures are set in a North African setting the process stops here, except for the addition of a self adhesive tuft or two to represent a bit of scrub.
When that has dried I apply a random coat of PVA to the stand and dip it into a container of 2mm static grass. This leaves some of the 'earth' showing through. I have used static grass applicators in the past, the kind powered by a couple of AA batteries but, to be frank, I found them a waste of time and effort. That is not to say they don't work but they offer no advantage over dipping a stand into a container of static grass and take much longer to achieve the same effect. I have not found that static grass shedding is a particular issue.
Finally, some self adhesive tufts finish off. Cost overall can be counted in pence.
It does take time but the effort is worth it.
I much prefer painting to flocking. My method is simple. I use the model railway 'grass' sheets. I stick the bases to the backing, prime the base edges and then paint them the same colour as the figures bases. I tend to practical not pretty. 😉
Quote from: KeithS on 28 February 2021, 01:29:39 PM
Anyway I was wondering if there are are others like me out there who prefer just to paint their bases.
Not being doing that for around 20 years now. Like you, I add a bit of texture filler to conceal the individual figures bases. I started with flock after some encouragement from a fellow gamer. I simply painted Humbrol Grass Green enamel on the base and sprinkled green flock over it before it dried. Through time there was some shedding but this was remedied by painting a coat of matt varnish over it to seal it (I used an old half empty tin - the flock sticks to the brush and ends up in the tin).
I then progressed to static grass. If you are worried about how to do it, buy the
Baccus6mm basing system and you won't look back. This provides the material and instructions. After that, you'll buy your own stuff from elsewhere and develop your own technique(s). I've even applied static grass to my previously flocked bases (see my pre-20th century foot painting comp entry). There is a shedding issue with static grass but this is very slight. Oh, and one other point, I use the vacuum cleaner after the PVA has dried (obviously using the nozzle tool attachment) to vacuum up any loose grass - I like to think this also helps to straighten the grass.
@Orcs: I've used Milliput from Day-1 and re-based countless times so you should have absolutely no problem.
Quote from: Westmarcher on 01 March 2021, 10:16:44 AM
@Orcs: I've used Milliput from Day-1 and re-based countless times so you should have absolutely no problem.
Oof, what's your secret? I used Milliput and paint on some of my early bases and was a pain to rebase. Some of them are still stuck...
Quote from: mmcv on 01 March 2021, 10:39:23 AM
Oof, what's your secret? I used Milliput and paint on some of my early bases and was a pain to rebase. Some of them are still stuck...
Yes I would love to know too
Quote from: mmcv on 01 March 2021, 10:39:23 AM
Oof, what's your secret? I used Milliput and paint on some of my early bases and was a pain to rebase. Some of them are still stuck...
Quote from: Orcs on 01 March 2021, 11:30:01 AM
Yes I would love to know too
Yikes! Getting me worried, now. I wonder, do you both use mdf bases? Any re-basing I've done is for miniatures on bases cut from mounting board/card (whatever you call it - you know, the card you use in picture framing). I carefully* use a sharp craft knife to slice the base off, often successfully getting the miniatures and existing landscaping off in one piece. That stuff also bends with a little bit of pressure plus the Milliput around the base of the figures is quite brittle and easy to chop off with your knife if you can't remove it with your thumb. I've only been using mdf in recent years and, to be fair, I've not tried re-basing mdf bases .... yet. :-\
* otherwise you may do a Techno. X_X
Thanks Westie, I will give that a try.
Most of my Mijes models are based on card from beermats. A few are on steel. so not sure what will happen thier. Hopfully they wil need a larger base and I can just put the whol thing on a larger mdf base.
When doing this you can if careful, split the MDF base to reduce its thickness. If really lucky you can use both halves.
Yeah mine are MDF. I basically resorted to trying to dig the figures out of it using a knife and clippers to work away around the bases then try and pry the knife under to pop up figures. Some proved too difficult to do so without breaking though, but thankfully I salvaged enough for my needs. I've avoided rebasing others so far that were in milliput, though does mean the aesthetic doesn't match the rest. Thankfully it was only my really early figures I did in milliput, since then it's mostly just glue and flock. I would use modelling paste for some individual figures and 2mm stuff but don't need to worry about rebasing them the same way. Planning to take on a rebase of some stuck with glue and flock soon, hoping I can save the bases though as they'd work well for other armies, pre flocked and magnetised!
I think it is worth raising the point about the difference between 'flocking' and 'static grass' ... I know that sounds obvious but the idea that you wash your static grass in dilute PVA is (in my experience) not a great idea (understatement).
A dilute PVA wash works fine for flock, but I rarely use flock now - other than for running up walls, trees and buildings to represent climbers or ivy etc.
Thanks to all who have replied, and by all means keep them coming. It seems that almost everyone is flocking nowadays, although using almost as many different techniques as there are people. ;) Personally I'm not totally convinced to go down the route, but that might be because I have evolved a semi-abstract battlefield system (see attached picture) so realism is less of an issue for me. Having said that, although my abstract battlefields work well (I think) for WW2, maybe in moving into Napoleonics I should think about a more realistic look so maybe I will give flocking a try. Plus if I ever move away from solo play I wouldn't want my troops to be given the cold shoulder in relation to other peoples bases. :D
Answers are flocking in...
Maybe I missed something in this thread but I know of very few people who use flock as opposed to static grass. The vast majority of active wargamers that I come across use a combination of textured bases with patches of static grass and a few tufts. That's what I do. Although I am contemplating a 'retro' look for one of my collections and I might use some flock if I can find it.
QuoteMaybe I missed something in this thread but I know of very few people who use flock as opposed to static grass. The vast majority of active wargamers that I come across use a combination of textured bases with patches of static grass and a few tufts. That's what I do.
Probably my fault, in my ignorance I thought that they were pretty much the same thing. Obviously not.
I like your "abstract" battlefield look, has a real military map feel to it.
I think the term flocking can be pretty loose. I tend to use it as a means that includes actual flock (i.e. bits of coloured sawdust), grit/sand, scatter/foliage (strands of plastic, lichen and sponge) and static grass in the sense of making a "decorated" base. A bigger mix gives a more "lush" and varied feel (which I like for more verdant regions), whereas keeping it simple with just texture, paint and static grass gives a cleaner look (which I like for drier regions).
Quote from: KeithS on 01 March 2021, 04:49:32 PM
Probably my fault, in my ignorance I thought that they were pretty much the same thing. Obviously not.
Not at all - flock always seems to me to be flakey or almost granular - whilst static grass is thin & (well) grass like.
I have never tried to use flock with my static grass applicator - it might produce an interesting effect but I suspect you'd need a pretty strong magnetic currant to get flock to 'stand up'.
Quote from: Big Insect on 01 March 2021, 06:57:11 PM
Not at all - flock always seems to me to be flakey or almost granular - whilst static grass is thin & (well) grass like.
I have never tried to use flock with my static grass applicator - it might produce an interesting effect but I suspect you'd need a pretty strong magnetic currant to get flock to 'stand up'.
I'm not sure you'd want flock to stand up? Flock is more for a mixed texture look rather than stand up like static grass? Bit chunky, more for ground cover. That's how I see it anyway.
Sand and grass:
(https://i.imgur.com/q6TBHXk.jpg)
Vs flock and scatter:
(https://i.imgur.com/mdPOz5m.jpg)
I like that table, there's something Wellsian (as in H.G.) about it.
Also some reassuring hints of Carcassonne.
Flock is a kind of powder, used on some wallpapers and wargames terrain tiles for example. The Kalistra hex terrain system is typical. It is, as said, not the same as static grass. I have only seen it used with bases comprising 6mm figures where even the shortest static grass might be a bit too tall. The point of decorating bases is really to make them conform, as nearly as possible, to the wargames terrain. The nature of your abstract terrain is such that I would have thought that decorated bases would be somewhat incongruous and your solution of simply painting the bases to conform to your terrain seems to be perfectly sensible. I wouldn't worry what other people think.
I flock metal figure bases at the same time as basing.
If MDF bases, paint green - the cheap stuff from the Works
Squeeze out the pva into a 'palette' (usually a jar lid)
Add a tiny bit of the green paint.
Cheap brush (Works again), get it wet, and paint the PVA onto base, makes it a bit thin.
Superglue on figure bottoms, and put into base.
Give a few seconds for superglue to work, put base in a small tray/box/etc that has flock in, push through the flock, flock onto base, so it covers feet.
Put base to one side for a day. This allows all the glues to soak in/dry etc.
Shake the excess off.
Leave a bit longer to make sure properly dry.
Varnish.
Superglue is set by water, which is why it glues fingers better than figures.
With the Little Wooden Men I'm going with painted bases only, as they are flat you cant disguise the nature, so making a feature of it, hence leaving the movement trays unpainted, but glued with the burn side up, as the colour looks like real wood.
Quote from: jimduncanuk on 01 March 2021, 04:44:48 PM
Maybe I missed something in this thread but I know of very few people who use flock as opposed to static grass. The vast majority of active wargamers that I come across use a combination of textured bases with patches of static grass and a few tufts. That's what I do. Although I am contemplating a 'retro' look for one of my collections and I might use some flock if I can find it.
Jim, you might try this. http://totalsystemscenic.com/product-category/uncategorised/flock/
It is the stuff TSS use for their tile system and similar to that used by Kalistra for their hex tile system and Geo-Hex for their contoured tile system. I use it for home made terrain pieces and to repair damaged tiles. It comes as a coarse powder and once applied gives some texture, though not to the same degree as static grass. I think it is what you are looking for.
Quote from: steve_holmes_11 on 01 March 2021, 09:11:36 PM
I like that table, there's something Wellsian (as in H.G.) about it.
Also some reassuring hints of Carcassonne.
Thanks I guess it is the grid look of the squares for the HG Wells thing, although it was intended for Sam Mustapha's Rommel rules, which are a bit more sophisticated ;) than Little Wars. I guess the Carcassonne thing comes from the twisty rivers, which was a bit inevitable due to having to match entry and exit points on successive small tiles. There are a couple of other influences, the stepped contour hills remind me a bit of the Ancients section in Donald Featherstones's War Games book, but the biggest influence for the overall look was Table Top Teasers by CS Grant in Henry Hyde's Battlegames magazine, which I think in turn are similar to layouts used in his father's books.
Quote from: John Cook on 02 March 2021, 10:45:53 AM
Jim, you might try this. http://totalsystemscenic.com/product-category/uncategorised/flock/
Thanks for that John.
Jim
I'm not a great fan of flocking bases, I much prefer to use products like Colour Party's "Basetex" or Coat d'Armes "Brushscape". They are basically suitably coloured acrylic paints with some type of grit in them; I use Basetex for 28mm, 15mm and 10mm, but I find it too coarse for 6mm where the Brushscape gives a much better finish. The BT19 Green Basetex matches Colour Party's own MA19 Scenic Green paint and is also a very good match with GW's Elysian Green. Brushscape's 406 Muddy Green gives a very similar match-up.
Push the Basetex between the based figures using a cheapish Size 1 or 2 brush, I find that the flex in the bristles allows you to manoeuvre the Basetex more easily than with a cocktail stick and it's easier to clean any excess off as you go along. Set aside to dry, I usually leave them overnight but they are usually ready for the next stage much sooner than that.
Once dry, run a modelling knife around the edges to tidy them up, paint the edges to match and then dry brush with a thinned deep yellow. Once they are dry you can add "grass tufts" if you feel so inclined. I wasn't a fan of tufts initially, but I have come to appreciate that 2 or 3 tufts on a base gives a very nice effect; you just need to avoid the impulse to keep adding just one more little tuft.
While I have tried various methods, I'm not happy with any of them but tend to the speedy mud paint/PVA/flock and scatter/spray varnish approach. Its bad enough the time needed for painting figures without needing a many stage basing process. I think the world still awaits the perfect solution which is quick, cheap, realistic looking and improves the look of the units. Although even "realistic" needs multiple solutions for different geographies, soils and time of year. And would an entire army be marching through identical terrain anyway? So you could get away with anything that looks nice really - just invent a story to match afterwards - "I have based my army to reflect the soil conditions on 3rd June in the area near Midsomer Mallow following a light shower with the left flank units near the destroyed drainage ditches".
Anyway, the most realistic base I have ever seen (I think on a thread here somewhere) was some wagons going along a muddy (and part textured) track with some black/silvery puddles and the grass at the sides of the base. This looked very real world to me. Whereas many gamers (me included) seem to end up with the figures standing on the grassy (or flocked) bits and avoiding the mud - presumably to avoid getting their shoes dirty? And then there is a choice to show grass upright or "trampled".
My head hurts. I shall now return to contemplating how to paint fingernails on 10mm figures.
I know I'm late to the party, but I have never been a fan of flocking. For me, it just doesn't go with a painted figure, looking artificial, and is like putting a real twig on the base and then not painting the twig. The twig looks real to life and the figure doesn't, but if you paint them both then they go together.
For my bases I use a wood putty by Elmer's and mix it to a pudding consistency and apply with a brush. When it's dry I use different grades of model railroad ballast for grass and rocks. When all is dry I paint it resulting in the entire base looking consistent. Here are a few examples and Sasquatch will show real twigs that has been painted.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/hh235/terry37photos/Painting/IMG_4711.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/terry37photos/a/99021c71-5594-4693-9395-617e045e8d3d/p/61927c7b-a0f7-496f-92a4-a46f7165b3dc)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/hh235/terry37photos/Painting/IMG_4710.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/terry37photos/a/99021c71-5594-4693-9395-617e045e8d3d/p/c8379a4b-afce-4bfb-b424-f3f58eb0394c)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/hh235/terry37photos/Painting/.highres/DSCF1829_zpswz7a6ieo.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/terry37photos/a/99021c71-5594-4693-9395-617e045e8d3d/p/63954acf-fc55-4500-b07a-42931bf5d5ad)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/hh235/terry37photos/IMG_5955.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/terry37photos/a/99021c71-5594-4693-9395-617e045e8d3d/p/cac813de-e060-46b4-9901-efe0921aa7cd)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/hh235/terry37photos/DSCF2608(1).JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/terry37photos/a/99021c71-5594-4693-9395-617e045e8d3d/p/a1fa5d4b-7308-42e9-ab13-d5cf6384452f)
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Thi is my way of doing it and I have always been pleased.
Terry
Going to be honest here. Everybody has their own way of doing things so in presentation of your figures there is no right or wrong way. If you want to just use paint, then texturing the base and using a base paint followed by dry brushing the dried surface with one or more greens, yellows and buffs can look just as effective as flock. Another way to go is to finish off the base by attaching small grass tufts, I suggest 2mm with 10mm figures. The chap on Miniature Realms has produced a You Tube video which is a painting tutorial of Warlord Epic Confederate infantry. His completion of the base using texture, paint and small sections of grass tuft shows how this can be done. A nice effect without having to resort to individual strands of flock.
Quote from: Terry37 on 01 June 2021, 03:01:26 AM
I know I'm late to the party, but I have never been a fan of flocking. For me, it just doesn't go with a painted figure, looking artificial, and is like putting a real twig on the base and then not painting the twig. The twig looks real to life and the figure doesn't, but if you paint them both then they go together.
<SNIP>
Thi is my way of doing it and I have always been pleased.
Terry
I thought I was the one and only who felt like that!!
I think your bases look fantastic Terry so you are quite right to be pleased with them!
Is it just me ? I keep reading the title to this thread as "Painting or Flogging", make of that what you will :)
P.S I did not attend a boarding school or one run my members of a religious order.
????
Who "runs your members"?
Just you Mark, I'd see a doctor :d
Quote from: Orcs on 28 February 2021, 01:38:15 PM
I am not sure what i am going to do when I revisit my old 15mm Mikes models as most of those are based in Milliput omd just painted green. so rebasing may be a nightmare if I do anything but texture and paint.
You might be aware of this anyway but soaking the bases in about 2mm of boiling water should get them off the base without damaging the figure
Mike's Models are the coolest 15mm wargaem figures ever!
Quote from: Orcs on 01 June 2021, 01:00:40 PM
Is it just me ? I keep reading the title to this thread as "Painting or Flogging", make of that what you will :)
P.S I did not attend a boarding school or one run by members of a religious order.
Corrected
Quote from: flamingpig0 on 01 June 2021, 03:06:43 PM
You might be aware of this anyway but soaking the bases in about 2mm of boiling water should get them off the base without damaging the figure
Mike's Models are the coolest 15mm wargaem figures ever!
The ones I've got are 13mm, and poor casatings :'(
Quote from: Ithoriel on 01 June 2021, 12:40:42 PM
I thought I was the one and only who felt like that!!
I think your bases look fantastic Terry so you are quite right to be pleased with them!
I'm there too, I must admit that when I first posted this thread I got the impression that pretty much everyone was into flocking. Following an earlier suggestion I have used the Cote d'Arms Brushscape texture paints, which gives (IMHO) quite a nice effect. There are a few things to watch out for though; you need to be quite careful when applying it as the troops need to be based first and there is risk of covering your troops if they are close together; it also pretty much trashes brushes so don't use your best ones to apply it.
Flocking is quick but I tend to prefer Fine Sand on white glue, painted. If you have painted to match a 'game mat'... then find that you like a different mat more... you can simply retouch paint. 'Textured Media' look 'a bit too smooth' for me... unless 'Sand' / 'Snow'.
Not a fan of Static Grass, unless for a specific theatre...eg Vietnam.
In general, I am not keen on heavily vegetated 'diorama' bases. They may make lovely 'pieces'... but can look rater 'odd' on roads, in towns, etc.
Grass 'tufts' may be costly... but, used sparingly, do the biz for me.
When / If... I get round to doing the 25mm ACW / Naps that I have amassed for the future... I may well just go for the 'Old School' look... without 'texturing' just some smoothing with white glue.... and a reasonably appropriate colour of paint. I like that 'look'... and a stand of FOUR figures is just going to be a representational 'piece', anyway!
I am not a big fan of the basing process. I remember Westie telling me of his regime and I felt quite exhausted.
I'm also infamously not a huge fan of bases that have sculpted pieces - logs, trees, fences, statues of the Virgin Mary - for the simple, and oft stated, reason that I feel for the poor troopers who have to lug the aforesaid statue of the Virgin Mary around with them.
I have experimented with texturing bases for some SF figures with absolutely no success.
For me, a nice mixture of 2mm Jarvis static grass - 2 parts summer, 2 parts spring, 1 part autumn - gives a satisfactory effect without being distracting. Marching through long(ish) grass.
If you care to spend time and energy on basing, go for it. If everyone did the same we'd be a very boring hobby.