Hello all
So i glued my carthaginians down and to my horror my miniatures had 'frosted' from the glue! Its gorilla glue. Is pva glue adequate to glue miniatures to the mdf bases?
I use superglue, just a spot.
I also pva the base, superglue on the figure base, then flock while pva still wet.
I only use PVA now all the way from 6mm, 10mm (of course) through to 28mm
Have not had a problem.
Richard
Dot of supergule or UHU hold mine, UHU is more comon, but it does depend on the material, both base and figure,
UHU or anything of that ilk works for me. Currently using "Hyper Tough" which I think I got in Home Bargain.
I get all my glues in Pound Land
I've started using epoxy resin.
No problems with the little fellows dropping off.
It's also a handy blocker against falling into the insanity of rebasing.
Quote from: steve_holmes_11 on 28 June 2020, 09:32:28 AM
I've started using epoxy resin.
No problems with the little fellows dropping off.
It's also a handy blocker against falling into the insanity of rebasing.
Messy and pricy, but it works.
Quote from: steve_holmes_11 on 28 June 2020, 09:32:28 AM
I've started using epoxy resin.
No problems with the little fellows dropping off.
It's also a handy blocker against falling into the insanity of rebasing.
You say that but having dug a number of figures out of milliput recently I'm not so sure...
You do have to be careful with superglue as it can frost but a small dab under the model is usually all it needs and any frosting out the sides can be covered in flock easily enough.
I have been moving to more PVA based basing after advice from others in the forum (fred in particular) mixing paint and PVA and smothering the bases and adding the figures to that then sprinkling on sand. It does result in better coverage, a firm hold and less PVA stuck to the figures than super glue then trying to PVA around them. It does however take much much longer to dry and can be a little fiddly to position without knocking over so tweezers are recommended!
Superglue, in all its forms is the WRONG type of adhesive to use on figures. It does not like close contact with paint, both acrylic and enamel.
Use a contact adhesive as it is much friendlier and will cause less problems.
PVA is OK if it is of good quality and your bases are neatly filed flat.
I've pretty much always used PVA as it is strong enough, cheap and if I do need to rebase is possible to release without damaging figures.
I also have started to use PVA and sand to build up the bases round the figure bases.
For what it's worth, mainly UHU especially with figures with larger bases. Unlike Superglue, UHU doesn't set immediately so it gives you more time to slide the figure around until you get it into the right position and facing. I also use Superglue but only for figures with tiny bases and for the likes of artillery or wagon wheels where the contact point between the wheel and mdf base is minimal and so a stronger grip is required. I also texture the remainder of mdf base with Milliput primarily because I don't like to see the figure's own base standing proud of the mdf base but also to give some extra support and build up the 'ground level' so that the bottom of the artillery or wagon wheel is raised to the same level as the soles of your figures' feet. Thereafter, I more or less follow the method set down in the Baccus 6mm basing system with sand/grit and static grass.
I use, mainly, plastic bases and superglue. Make sure the underside of the figure is flat and use just a drop of glue. I squeeze out a small amount onto a ceramic mixing palette (a white tile left over from when we refurbished the bathroom!) and dispense it with a toothpick. PVA works fine on MDF bases. Same procedure. Not sure if PVA works as well on plastic.
mmcv appears to do what I do, except I use flock.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 28 June 2020, 12:48:57 PM
mmcv appears to do what I do, except I use flock.
I do use flock too. Depends what I'm basing. E.g. my Chinese I've mostly used sand with static grass tufts, but the Aztecs use a mix of flocks and scatter. Just depends how "lush" looking I want it. Vary the colour of paint used as well, from sandy brown to a darker richer brown.
I use the "Resin woodworking PVA" to stick 28mm metal figures to metal washers. No problems at all.
I used to use PVA for 10mm but the figures kept falling over in the PVA even if the base was flat. Now I stick them in position with superglue then PVA the base and sand it
Thanks for replying all
Think im going to try not putting as much superglue on them, i use to get my glue from a model train shop and i never had this problem. That stuff was lethal too, it would stick my fingers together just looking at the bottle!
If you must use superglue then try the gel variety. It won't run everywhere.
Quote from: mmcv on 28 June 2020, 01:06:15 PM
I do use flock too. Depends what I'm basing. E.g. my Chinese I've mostly used sand with static grass tufts, but the Aztecs use a mix of flocks and scatter. Just depends how "lush" looking I want it. Vary the colour of paint used as well, from sandy brown to a darker richer brown.
I use scatter but I am not sure about this flock. Are they strips you glue down or what?
Neat Unibond PVA for sticking figures onto the base. Same for the base texture, I use ground olive stones which has the same texture as fine sand, but not so abrasive. When dry I apply thinly diluted PVA to seal the base texture, add a drop of brown or sand coloured ink and then puff some fine green flock to produce clumps of foliage.
Never had an issue with any figure falling off the base, even works for wheeled vehicles and artillery pieces with skinny wheels.
PVA is dead cheap, apply with any rough old brush, dilutes and washes with water and if you ever have to do the dreaded re-basing, just soak the bases in a saucer of boiling water for a few minutes.
I also use PVA to stick figures to a painting stick. For 10mm figures I use a length of wood about half an inch wide and 16-17 inches long. Onto this I can put twenty small blobs of PVA and then stick on twenty figures, all the same pose and all facing the same direction. When painted and varnished the careful application of a Stanley knife under the corner of each stand pops of the figure ready for basing. Please apply normal precautions for fingers and eyes...
Quote from: hammurabi70 on 28 June 2020, 11:03:09 PM
I use scatter but I am not sure about this flock. Are they strips you glue down or what?
Coloured grains of powder, simulating grass, earth, shingles, or what would you.
Quote from: hammurabi70 on 28 June 2020, 11:03:09 PM
I use scatter but I am not sure about this flock. Are they strips you glue down or what?
Quote from: FierceKitty on 28 June 2020, 11:08:41 PM
Coloured grains of powder, simulating grass, earth, shingles, or what would you.
As FK said. It's often just coloured sawdust. Suspect it's the same thing you mean by scatter. Then foliage power and clumps are the coloured sponge and I tend to call general other bits "scatter" - coloured plastic strands, grit, leaves, etc.
Quote from: FierceKitty on 28 June 2020, 11:08:41 PM
Coloured grains of powder, simulating grass, earth, shingles, or what would you.
I use scatter but have never tried flock; this suggests flock as finer grains than scatter.
Quote from: hammurabi70 on 29 June 2020, 01:00:51 PM
I use scatter but have never tried flock; this suggests flock as finer grains than scatter.
Thats right, I mix 2-3 different greens to get a decent colour, some are far to bright.
Quote from: hammurabi70 on 29 June 2020, 01:00:51 PM
I use scatter but have never tried flock; this suggests flock as finer grains than scatter.
This is the sort of thing, https://www.serious-play.co.uk/collections/modelling-flock
As Ian said, often you can mix them to pleasing effects. My ECW mix for instance is mostly moss green and brown with a smaller proportion of dark brown, dark green and light green. Then some grass and scatter over the top.
E.g.
(https://i.imgur.com/nKhH2XY.jpg)
Or for some recent bases I've been just adding to the base in patches for textual and visual difference:
(https://i.imgur.com/kVvwDW4.jpg)
Crusader basing uses a mix of browns and yellows with a very small proportion of green:
(https://i.imgur.com/NmgD94n.jpg)
Looks a bit odd close up like that but at a distance has a pleasing effect.
I use 2mm Javis static grass (available from your friendly neighbourhood Pendraken). 2 parts Summer, 2 parts spring, 1 part autumn.
Plenty of food for thought, mmcv i like your crusader bases very autumny!
I find that PVA works just fine on the thin plywood bases I use. Once the glue has set I texture the bases using BASETEX (Colour Party Paints) and dry-brush. On the few occasions I've had to re-base (usually because I've made a mistake), I've generally found the figures to be infuriatingly well attached.
I wouldn't generally use Superglue, but I make one exception. I also collect ADLER 6mm and the figures are quite widely spaced on their strips. This means they have to be snipped into individual figures and then based. In this situation, Gel Superglue is the "Holy Grail" of adhesives as it is viscous (I think that's the right word) enough to support the weight of the figure being glued - place your blobs of Superglue on the base, position a figure, count to ten and move on to the next figure. Occasionally a figure or two may start to lean but these can easily be straightened, count to ten again and then let go.