So I bought a couple of test packs of Walt's mdf napoleonics.
He says they are 6mm, but with the caveat they are a bit bigger- I measure at 8-9mm with the base strip. (the bases are 40x20s)
I bought artists pens from Hobby Craft (Windsor and Newton Promarker - 12 for £20, chisel tip at one end, pointy one at the other), and after a white undercoat coloured in, staying between the lines! I can do this quicker, and (a bit) more neatly than painting (I hate painting). Hobby craft also do a 2.5l RUB, with a tray in. 1 compartment takes the pens (and painting glasses) while the other 4 have the figures.
Did a test strip one night, then Monday did the other 11 (2 were half started). Basically did 88 figures in an evening!
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7864/31738717087_563c98d64f_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4825/31738716727_4aba94b590_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4815/45955801904_e82b59c8b8_z.jpg)
I think I could well buy the rest of the Army now! Not only are they ideal for FoG:N (for the '15mm measurements - why do rules writers not understand the rational for small figures is often more in the same foot print!), but that battalion is the width of a BP unit when playing at the Inch measurement scale, not the sub in cms that SJ, I and Tring club do.
The strips are 42mm - I assume that is to do with laying out efficiently, so I clip the end men off, and put them behind as file closers.
Next up - Dragoon test paint.
Thanks to Sunjester for the loan of bases - There will be a order coming your way, Leon!
bRILL
They look really good
I've decided not to flock or paint base edges - I'm going for the 'gentleman's billiard table game' look, so a bit more styalised.
At table top distance they look quite nice.
As my painting gets slower and slower, these look like quite an interesting alternative for getting mass armies on the table (how much, by the way?). Coincidentally, another new alternative was recently posted on the Peter Pig forum. As someone on that forum said, "Are flats making a come back?" Here is a link and YouTube video:-
https://wofun-games.com/landing.html (https://wofun-games.com/landing.html)
Quote from: Last Hussar on 09 January 2019, 08:57:05 PM
... why do rules writers not understand the rational for small figures is often more in the same foot print!, but that battalion is the width of a BP unit when playing at the Inch measurement scale, not the sub in cms that SJ, I and Tring club do.
I know. Could it be that despite any new innovations they may introduce in their rules, many 28mm rules writers still appear to be wedded to the old fashioned 'one figure equals so many men' concept and so think that's what happens when you move down the scales?
Quotemany 28mm rules writers still appear to be wedded to the old fashioned 'one figure equals so many men' concept
It annoys me something rotten. The BASE=men, unless you are doing figure removal
Each pack contains 12 strips of 8 infantry or 3 cavalry. Infantry packs include a command strip of 2 x 4 figure commands @ £2
Cavalry are side on - they look a little narrow head on to me. I looked at gluing 2 together, but found the heads are carved narrower, so it looked rather odd - like cojoined twins.
Guns are 4 for £1.50, with 2 limbers and 6 horses. Skirmishers are also side on, because they are firing - 4 on a strip - 25p
Some figures sub for other countries as they are so similar.
Of course the German Austrians will be even quicker!
They are lovely figures and I really like the billiard table look you've gone for :).
They look really good
Take care
Andy
I'm assuming these are from Commission.
Yes.
I've bought the thinnest artist pen I could find, and done between the legs, and waistband.
Ordered an army (French III Corps 1809 Grande Armee for FoG:N Another 15 6-base units, plus 3 Cavalry and guns and officers etc)
Walt replied to my order with
Quotewow. That is jumping in with both feet.
I pointed out 'part an army' is no use!
Fair Warning - Leon is in danger of losing his 'Most Helpful Retailer' title!
They've come up a treat! I really rate the Commission mdf stuff - it "paints" up very nicely and the price is awesome :D
Any pics of the shading drawn on yet?
I'm ambivalent about these, wont be buying any as I already have large french, russian and British armies from Irregular/Heroics, so no need for more 6mm stuff. The infantry look good, but I find the cavalry a bit odd.
IanS
The cavalry are my only reservation too, 6 on 40mm base does remind me of a kitchen slicer. However they are unpainted.
When the test horse and guns are painted up, I'll post more pics. I also found the drums for the infantry. I thought they were just bits from the cutting at first.
Oops! Nice to know for anyone else who ventures down that particular MDF path. I looked at them and thought they might be rather nice to use with the Perry's Travel Battle, to give a real old school toy soldier feel.
Come across my first problem.
They are so light that I've just scattered the Empress Dragoons with a can of spray undercoat :o :o
Need to get cheap floor tiles as spraying table, coz they are sticky!
If that doesn't work its going to be brush, which rather ruins my plans for the worlds biggest Austrian Army (an army even Orcs could paint in less than 5 years)
Spot of blue tac on the bottom of the strip should hold them!
I've used them to fill in periods I wouldn't otherwise have gone for - and in numbers that just aren't doable in lead!
My housemate suggested the same, and have already done it. Will be painting Empress Dragoons tomorrow.
Will also be ordering bases from Pendraken in next week or so.
Another lesson.
Don't undercoat the horses. The MDF is a nice chestnut colour, and now I've got to paint the coats again. Will just use white paint pen to undercoat just rider and tack.
Only one side is smooth, the edge is ridged. Not too bad on infantry, but there is a lot of horse to paint/colour in.
A wider nibbed pen might help - splot for each side of the horse (sort of rump-left- rump right), think stripe down theoutaide legs, same at front? "Gaps" left for a suggestion of tack and reins etc. Although if you've undercoated white that doesn't really work, I guess and you're stuck with actually painting the beasts? But at least you can colour in the saddle cloths etc!
Anywhere that has been cut is rough, this includes the "front" f the head and tail on the smooth side where the wood has burned off to make it thinner.
For the next lot of horses I'm literally going to colour rider and tack in white, then go over only them with colours.
Yeah, I know, I've a load of them :D
I guess the cut MDF is probably close enough, and it should work well with the paint pens for colouring in the detail.
Just thinking about what's going to be quicker but "undercoating" with a pen for just the tack & rider is probably as quick as spraying anyway, I bet :D
By the time you've repainted its not worth spraying.
Glad I bought test strips before spraying a hundred more horses!
Walt's flats are fab. I painted up some Austrians for him when they first came out and we were playing a rather large Volley and Bayonet Napoleonic campaign. 😁. Not that he needed much help btw as his own painting is utterly superb, the man has the eyes of hawk.
I have just received my copy of the 100th WSS mag and they have a nice little review of the figures in that 😁 so fingers crossed he'll pick up loads of orders from that
Andy
I do t do them justice.
Mind you, I say that about a lot of figures...
So, I'm turning this into my 'project thread'.
French army 'recruiting' courtesy of Walt.
Have ordered (surprisingly cheap) movement trays from a certain 'Dark Lord' as Nobby insists on calling him. Most helpful with my desire for some non standard ones for Commanders, along with a big pack of 40 x 20 bases, plus 20 and 40 x 10 for the markers. I've over sized the move trays to allow the markers with unit info (name, division, traits etc) to be placed along the back. Commanders will be on 40mm disks with up to 3 AdCs to act as Command Point markers
(actually worried that what I asked for isn't what I meant! What if my diagram of the Command bases was duff?)
Have been fiddling with using acetone/alcohol pen combo to transfer laser prints onto painted mdf. Its not really suitable. Its hard not to rub the paint off or leave bits of the paper behind.
(Laser print/photocopy something mirror image, Place on surface to take the print, use acetone to soak the paper, and blender pen to activate the process - acetone on its own doesn't work.)
So have bitten the bullet and bought laser printer water slide decal paper to make up the markers. Also experimented with a white gel pen, but not sure I can write neat enough on a couple of hundred bases.
Just waiting for lots of MDF to drop through the door now, bases, trays, soldiers and storage trays! Landlady says its my job to sort out food for a couple of thousand Frenchmen and stabling for a couple of hundred horses!
Of the test strips - Finished the Empress Dragoons, but as of yet, no bases! They don't look quite as thin painted! The two I didn't spray undercoat definitely look better. Photos when the bases arrive.
Started on the cannons. Think I might try my pin vice drill on the hub to put a pin in to mount the wheels rather than glue alone.
The OOB im working too has the hussars - 5th and 6th in sky blue. I think I will do an AdC as the 8th, so it looks like the little chap on the left. Luckily AdCs cant be shot - they are just point markers, or Orcs would insist on playing me just so he could shoot the Little Hussar!
;D
I found glue alone fine with the cannon, limbers etc - once glued to a base as well they're small enough but with enough area to join they won't break. Well they might but only if you stamped on them or something.
Good luck with the bases etc :)
Did you sketch it out in the pub? Blame the beer if it goes wrong!
No- working out stuff for Wargames is why the Civil Service has computers. :d
Likewise photocopies and printers. How do you think I know about all the extra facilities - mirroring images, making booklets etc - our photocopier has? ;D
Mmmmm perks....
My taxes, my taxes!!! - Oh, hang on though, schools are great places for photocopying and laminating. :-[
Useful skill transfer into the work environment ;)
Almost finished the three test packs. The edges of the gunners will need properly doing once clipped apart; the line will have to take their chances, but because the crew be around their pieces their edges will be seen. Not clipping until ready to base, and I'm in Leon and the Royal mail's hands on that.
Had trouble getting wheels to stick. After I've done all four I wondered about gluing a thin wire Axel on the underside, and going with my idea of drilling the hubs.
The re are 2 lengths of barrel, the shorter barely clears the carriage. Any oine know what it is meant to represent?
I'd say the shorter barrel is meant to represent a howitzer
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/44/Obusier_de_6_pouces_Gribeauval.jpg/1024px-Obusier_de_6_pouces_Gribeauval.jpg)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Obusier_de_6_pouces_Gribeauval (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Obusier_de_6_pouces_Gribeauval)
I agree. Issued by the British at one per battery, though Bull's Battery at Waterloo were all howitzers.
Indeed, howitzers IIRC Walt's comment before correctly.
Odd on the gluing - I just superglued the wheels on and was done?!
My glue must be a bit dodgy. Took time to set
To be fair smooth to smooth no lugs is always tricky and I've various stuff that probably would fall apart before it set unless I clamped it :D Assuming the glue came out the tube at all ;)
A light sprinkle of Bicarb of Soda or Baking Powder will almost insta-set superglue. Very useful for fiddly joins ... and for gluing bits to your fingers if not used carefully :)
The water-slide decal paper has arrived for making the label tiles. Waiting for the tiles (bases) to arrive to do a test run with plain paper prints before I commit ink to that.
So a box full of bases and movement trays has arrived. When Leon emailed me to say it was on its way I told him off as it was quarter to midnight, and he should be having some time to himself/family.
All packaged so well it looked like a standard kit, rather than a mix, some bespoke!
1 tile painted to check the decal will show up against that shade of green.
What's best to glue frames to bases, PVA or super glue?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 04 February 2019, 11:45:37 PM
What's best to glue frames to bases, PVA or super glue?
Good to hear that it arrived safely, PVA will be fine and strong enough!
Lots of little wooden froggies have arrived today. Luckily the package with two MDF storage trays was undamaged by the Hermes person ramming it through the letter box.
Have glued a few more Movement trays, but not doing much tonight, as the kids wanted to go bowling this afternoon - found out why afternoon not evening; unlimited games for a tenner per person. Played 7 games. Legs are knackered.
Good job you can sit down whilst gluing MDF ;)
Hermes at least tried to force the package through the "right way round" then!
I'd like to thank all the taxpayers here for printing off waterslide decals. Have black, yellow and light green text to see what shows up best on the green paint.
Here's a conundrum. I was going to paint the top of the movement trays but not the sides, because of the 'billiard table' look. Now wondering whether to even paint the top (basically the frame) to acknowledge the artificial nature of a movement tray.
I do like the Command Trays Leon has done (from my design!) 40mm circle for the command stand, 3 x 10mm for the AdCs (1 per command point) plus a 40x10 cartouche for the name plate. My favourite bit of non figure kit ever.
Can we have pics, Last Hussar? They're sounding handy!
Of which in particular?
The command trays, in particular. But any and all, good wargaming piccies are always welcome :D
The decals are a bit shiny- shinier in the photos. Anyone know a way to matte them without obscuring the writing.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7842/46342310174_9b1c32a011_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dB7sgQ)DSC_0437 (https://flic.kr/p/2dB7sgQ) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7820/46342310824_26f7895765_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dB7st3)DSC_0436 (https://flic.kr/p/2dB7st3) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7824/33191000568_9baa6e1f6c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SyYy7u)DSC_0435 (https://flic.kr/p/SyYy7u) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7890/33191001138_6e293b259e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SyYyhj)DSC_0434 (https://flic.kr/p/SyYyhj) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
The command stand has 3 on the big disk to who it is a Corps commander. Division commanders will have 2.
The three individual officers are the Command Point markers.
Spray matt varnish over it, you might using a very soft brush with the matt varnish. See link
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/decal-softener-medium-decal-fix/
The secret to using decals is to first spray a gloss coat and when dry apply the decals. After they have dried hit it with a flat spray and the film portion doesn't show. But I recommend maybe two light coats of fhe flat spray so it doesn't dissolve the decal.
Terry
Those look rather good! I wasn't sure how they were going to turn out but seeing them based up they have a grand old look :-bd
:-bd =D> :-bd
I wonder how much effort would be involved with 'painting' the strips between the figures & beneath the boots to match the green bases :-\
I'd undercoat (black of course), then paint the strip green.
Very cool
Superb!
Having just done decals on some Blood Red Skies stuff (well, left over Zvesda 1/200th bombers left over from an uncompleted and now mostly sold on project) I feel the annoyance. i'm told there's a brush on decal remover that just evaporates the clear portions away?
Quote from: Terry37 on 12 February 2019, 03:41:27 AM
The secret to using decals is to first spray a gloss coat and when dry apply the decals. After they have dried hit it with a flat spray and the film portion doesn't show. But I recommend maybe two light coats of fhe flat spray so it doesn't dissolve the decal.
Terry
This.
The problem is tiny air bubbles under the decal that gives the silvery look. I've found that brush on varnish works just as well. A small bit of gloss varnish where the decal needs to go, let it dry then mat varnish over the whole figure / vehicle at the end.
I've used future floor varnish as often as not, as this dries quickly. But the formula seems to have changed.
Very nice indeed
Take care
Andy
The green between the figures is a different green, which is why it looks like I haven't done them. Will go back with the base green.
If I use a brush on matt varnish will that work?
The mdf figures are not for me, but I do so like the look. Very old school, and simple - I would use them in a landscape of children's wooden building bricks, lollipop trees and rectangular hills, all the time thinking of H G Wells and Little Wars
Painted a couple of regiments of horses 1 hussars, 1 chasseur a cheval. Because of the colour of the wood I'm not undercoating with spray; I'm using a white paint pen to do just the rider and shabraque. Its quick to bring them into colour once that is done. Monday I did 36 horse unit of chasseur in an evening. Final regiment of chasseur to be done, then undercoat infantry at the weekend. The foot feel quicker to do, but as a unit is 96 probably the same time spent per unit.
Cavalry finished, but weather stopped undercoat spray. Will do generals instead, as I will paint pen them.
A handy backup plan included :D
I don't think I've ever painted 72 horse in a week, let alone in 1 and a bit nights x 2
All horse painted, all generals and ADC (to show command points) done, along with most 'attached officer' bases. Need to get some photos.
Saturday was calm enough to undercoat 60 strips of infantry. Almost finished first 12=1battalion.
Nice, you're GALLOPING ALONG with those, ahahaha!
Is there a way to remove strips of MDF soldiers from MDF bases?:-) asking for an idiot who realised there's a better way to layout the figures.
Soak in a warm pva and water mix
Dampen them up as suggested then run a craft knife carefully under the figure "base". Done carefully you should get them off...
Saw the little chaps on the commission Figures stand at Phalanx and they really looked good. The Romans were very impressive.
Unfortunately these ones have been painted by me.
Battalion 10 almost finished. Turns out I can paint 96 in an innings if I didn't take breaks.
Two problems.
I took breaks
England collapse means the radio is off and therefore painting has stopped.
In hoping for more Ancients from Commission, as I've kind of enough Nappies and ACW figures. So I need more stuff to add to the pile :D
Last Hussar, you need something else to relax with. The England Women's Football Team are apparently very good and don't seem afflicted by our sportsmen's ability to stumble over imaginary deceased invisible turtles at the moment of glory ;)
I usually listen to BBC comedy, but I'm running out of stuff I want to listen to. However someone has put complete episodes of Yes Minister on YouTube, and apart from Paul Eddington's reaction shots (scripts often said Nothing more than "Paul reacts" because of how good these were) its non visual friendly.
The first series pops up on 4Extra from time to time, rest dont seem to have been adapted for radio....
And it's good enough you can probably run through the series multiple times with out going crazy :)
Quote from: Last Hussar on 27 June 2019, 07:45:16 AM
I usually listen to BBC comedy . . .
Ahh, me too. I have seven seasons of
Old Harry's Game, the first two of
Hitchhiker's, the original
Knowing Me, Knowing You and the complete
Revolting People. Oh, and
Good Omens and a couple of Pratchett's Discworld stories that they've adapted (
Guards, Guards and, umm, another who's name I can't recall at the mo).
Trouble is I've heard them all so often. Still good though.
Pyramids they did a while back.
All hail Om
Quote from: mad lemmey on 27 June 2019, 02:30:09 PM
Pyramids they did a while back.
No, it's not that one . . .
Quote from: mad lemmey on 27 June 2019, 02:30:09 PM
All hail Om
And this reminds it is
Small Gods! I think there's one of the witch stories around as well, but I don't have that.
Small God's, I crouch corrected. Sorry. :-[
Terry Pratchet - I really cannot connect with that man's humour at all.
Early books were the best.
The Colour of Magic.
Later ones ... not so much.
Audible is pretty good for it, I have most of them on audiobook (and physical book and Kindle...) Always find something new in them every time I indulge.
Audible seem to be working on a lot of free radio drama style content lately too.
Though mostly on audible I go for long books to get the money's worth, some good historical ones as well as a lot of the Great Courses series. Can get ones upwards of 20 hours.
For lighter listening though podcasts seem to be the way to go these days, a lot out there.
Quote from: fsn on 27 June 2019, 07:18:24 PM
Early books were the best.
The Colour of Magic.
Later ones ... not so much.
Each to their own. I preferred the later ones which were stories with jokes in not a series of jokes strung together to make a narrative.
I liked "The Wee Free Men" and the rest of the Tiffany Aching series too, even though it's aimed at kids.
Quote from: Ithoriel on 27 June 2019, 11:02:13 PM
Each to their own. I preferred the later ones which were stories with jokes in not a series of jokes strung together to make a narrative.
I liked "The Wee Free Men" and the rest of the Tiffany Aching series too, even though it's aimed at kids.
The Tiffany series is good, fresh spin in the witches. I do enjoy the development of the world in the later books and how things tie together more as the world develops and moves on. I find in the first few books he's still finding good feet a bit, as you say more a series of comic moments tired together, but once he hits his stride...
I usually recommend people start with the likes of Wyrd Sisters or Small Gods as they are a lot more accessible than the early ones (unless you have a good grounding in the fantasy tropes).
Agreed.
Quote from: mmcv on 27 June 2019, 10:37:36 PM
Audible is pretty good for it, I have most of them on audiobook (and physical book and Kindle...) Always find something new in them every time I indulge.
If you search YouTube there are a lot of aufiobooks on there too - including some from Audible.
Quote from: mmcv on 27 June 2019, 11:23:21 PM
I usually recommend people start with the likes of Wyrd Sisters or Small Gods as they are a lot more accessible than the early ones (unless you have a good grounding in the fantasy tropes).
Yes, the first two are distinctly different from what follows.
Mort is the first one where he really gets it right, I think. And I wouldn't bother (again) with anything written from
The Last Continent onwards.
The Last Continent was a bit naff, lots of parody but not much story, but he was still in full stride in the early 00's after that with books like Night Watch, The Truth and Going Postal.
My problem is fantasy doesn't float my boat and I just don't get black humour - life's too short and I have other coping mechanisms for dealing with misery.
Yeah that's fair enough. I would say the "fantasy" elements drop off quite a bit in the latter books, especially with the industrial revolution. It's still there given the backdrop of the world and the inhabitants being not altogether human (while still being very much so in character) but isn't a focus or large plot driver. I wouldn't necessarily class it black humour. It's certainly a bit wry at times, but he's a master at layering comedy, irony, self reflection, parody and reference to real world events and people. And many punes*.
*Or play on words.
I'd also heartily recommend Good Omens, both the book and the recent TV series.
Met him once, a very strange person. The books do tail off a bit toward the end, but that I suspect was a symptom of his condition.
ianS
I have 11 battalions of line completed, and 1 light. Each is 96 figures on 6 bases. 1 regt cuirassier, 2 chasseur, 1 hussar. 3 guns and crew. 16 4 man bases of skirmish, 6 command stands, plus ADCs to act as command points, and 4 bases of infantry officer attachment, 3 for cavalry. Still got 4 bns to paint, plus some skirmish and about 8 guns (I think). That's a gameable force done.
Hopefully pics soon.
Stop mucking about on the computer then and get on with the Austrians to oppose them!
I need to buy them first. I'm looking at my bank account. Also don't want them arriving before I've comleted the French.
Will some please send me "a life"
The muskets are resting on the floor as a score up one leg. So I've bought a yard brush, and am cutting the bristles into 8mm lengths to glue to the shoulders.
The gluing is simple, its cutting the lengths.
As the actress said to the bishop...
Multipurpose follow up to that
Turns out its trickier that I thought and won't be quick. I can see it keeping me up at night.
Once I've got the individual bristles cut, I could arm a battalion in about an hour. It would be quicker if I'd thought of this before basing - I couldn't find anything thin enough.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48192984232_d8ed167b88_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gqDDcf)Bristle muskets (https://flic.kr/p/2gqDDcf) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48192984692_cd999cdd85_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gqDDkb)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2gqDDkb) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
The flag, by the way, is 4mm high.
Hard to see is the fact that the two figures at the back, one is carrying a pike, and the other has a sword.
Very nice
Wowzers, that's a good idea, pops them up nicely.
I just did similar on some 1/72nd pikemen, not sure I'd want to do hundreds, mind, so you have kudos for that!
:-bd =D> :-bd
And Pierre the Shy thought it was a lot of work gluing on 10mm Pike ;)
They really do look rather spiffy !
I'm 'well' impressed !
Cheers - Phil
If reckon I can do half a battalion an evening minimum, so I can do my 12 bns in a couple of weeks. Future strips I'll do before basing.
More piccies, I laid every thing so far on dining table.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48224180892_b513e8901b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gtpwSG)Empress Dragoons (https://flic.kr/p/2gtpwSG) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48224180212_757550c790_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gtpwEY)Right flank (https://flic.kr/p/2gtpwEY) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48224179642_72a3aedc53_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gtpwv9)Skirmish line (https://flic.kr/p/2gtpwv9) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48224179367_3ef44befef_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gtpwqp)From the Left flank (https://flic.kr/p/2gtpwqp) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
:o just a few then
:-bd =D> :-bd
About 1300.
Another 450ish to go
Then onto buying Austrians. Just waiting for Walt to get back to me about a query.
Looking very spiffy
Very tasty! That'll spread some glorious revolutionary thought nicely :)
Very impressed
They look great ! :)
Cheers - Phil
Impressive. Most impressive.
Last of the Close Order Infantry done. That's 14 units of 6 bases of 16 figures, 12 Ligne, 2 Legere.
Need to paint the remaining 40 skirmishers to make 10 bases.
Then onto the remaining guns.
144 cavalry already done (4x6x6)
I've been asking around trying to get the muskets printed. No one has come back to me.
Those look great en mass, plus the 'old school' look is really rather nice.
Got the Austrians through about a month ago, but only got round to them last week.
This also included more French gunners, as mine appeared to have deserted. Finished the last of 9 French guns this afternoon, while watching "Fantastic Voyage". The tray has space remaining for 4 stands so that will be skirmishers, 16 figures.
However have first 7 packs of Austrians undercoated. White :D . these should be a lot quicker than the French because of that.
Also got all the Brunswickers from 1809. I finally have an army I can't be tempted to add to!
Walt's done a fantastic job working out which figures I need, matching ,my demand for grenzers and uhlans up with his catalogue. I even have lots of tiny eagles to complete the French flagpoles with.
As hoped for the German Austrians are really quick to knock out, as I don't have to do the jackets, but there was some minor touching up for figures and places the spray had missed, mostly my nemesis on strips, the sleeves. I did the basics on 5 units (each 12 strips of 8 men).
Faces, blankets, back of head, pack done. The black bits- boots and helmet taking longer because of having to do the sides. Did one unit between Christmas and new year in fits and starts, but if I sit down tomorrow should have a total of 6 units ready for basing.
Sounds ace
Not quite as far as hoped. Need to put the pen line between legs, also Austrians need arms delineating because all white.
Also the helmet plaque and brush need doing.
Still damn quick.
On the table
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49334602362_61e32f8042_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iawJus)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49334383171_a3190fa1d9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iavBki)
I say, those do look good
Does anyone know what I've done with my gold pen, so I can do the officers sashes?
Put it in a (very) safe place?
Down the back of the sofa ?
(I'll probably be asking where I've left a 30mm 'scale' head tomorrow.....If I DO ask, remind me it's in the chest freezer.)
Cheers - Phil
Phil, it's in the chest freezer!
I think I left it at my parents.
Bought another.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 06 January 2020, 06:33:59 PM
I think I left it at my parents.
Me mum's got a heart of gold; I drew it on her forehead meself.
Quote from: mad lemmey on 06 January 2020, 06:32:41 PM
Phil, it's in the chest freezer!
Ta, Will. :)
I'll have to go and fetch it in a few minutes, so it can start thawing out (a bit).
Cheers - Phil ;)
Phil - where is the chest freezer ?
Quote from: FierceKitty on 07 January 2020, 03:24:54 AM
Me mum's got a heart of gold; I drew it on her forehead meself.
I have the heart of a lion .... and a lifetime ban from the zoo ;)
Quote from: ianrs54 on 07 January 2020, 08:48:15 AM
Phil - where is the chest freezer ?
In the feed room, in the big barn....At least
I think that's where it is. ;)
Cheers - Phil
Just painted the legs of 72 Hungarian Infantry.
Then remembered they have shakos, not helmets, and what I have actually done is put 72 Austrians in the wrong uniform.
Bugger.
#-o
Quote from: Last Hussar on 17 March 2020, 01:39:31 AM
Just painted the legs of 72 Hungarian Infantry.
Then remembered they have shakos, not helmets, and what I have actually done is put 72 Austrians in the wrong uniform.
Bugger.
Das war aber schreckliche Schlamperei!
Uniform shortages and scratch raised troops! I hear tell one Guard unit had only a metre of gold braid on their hats! The shame!
You could do some headswaps. ;)
Martin
On MDF 8mm?
Are you trying to drive me insane?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 17 March 2020, 10:13:31 PM
Are you trying to drive me insane?
Are you quite sure it's not too late for that? ;)
(http://slffvii.com/wiki/images/e/ef/I_will_find_you_and_I_will_kill_you.jpeg)
(https://static.tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pub/images/31_a6_haberzettl_jagd_web.jpg)
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Bambo - at a cinema near you.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 17 March 2020, 11:34:44 PM
(http://slffvii.com/wiki/images/e/ef/I_will_find_you_and_I_will_kill_you.jpeg)
"........ Good Luck......."
Liam Neeson in Taken
Quote from: FierceKitty on 18 March 2020, 01:00:58 AM
Bambo - at a cinema near you.
Your coat, Sir. ;)
Cheers - Phil
Anyway, back on topic...
1 regiment of hussars and 5 of German line now based.
Waiting on the bases from Leon. (Who am I kidding - I only have one unbased unit, the order will arrive before any more units get done... )
10th Hussars
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49695903561_08b9e9173c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHsuKt)IMG-20200321-WA0003 (https://flic.kr/p/2iHsuKt) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Line
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49695380508_64a0309419_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHpPgj)IMG-20200324-WA0000 (https://flic.kr/p/2iHpPgj) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49695903456_4e8ba3a924_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHsuHE)20200324_212317 (https://flic.kr/p/2iHsuHE) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Yes, I know Austrian units only carried 1 Standard per battalion in 1809, but there are a number of important caveats that allow me to put 2 per unit.
1) I like flags
2) These are primarily for Field of Glory, so the unit represents a Regiment or Brigade, thus multiple battalions. (I suppose given this I could add a 2nd Ordinarfahne)
3) Austrian-German units are White with white, white and white. Flags give some colour.
4) Flags are likable.
5) 96 man units in 1:200 - I'm not doing some 12 man 'so called battalion' - see #3
6) These can/will also be used for Black Powder. If we do the cm scale, then the units will be just 3 stands, this way I get a 1st (with Liebfahne) and 2nd (with Ordinarfahne) battalion
7) Did I mention I like a unit with a flag?
Tomorrow/shortly I will undercoat some Hungarians.
Post Script.
Technically the Leibfahne are the 1804 pattern, not the 1806. But the back is prettier - see the flags at the bottom of this:
http://www.warflag.com/napflags/flaghtml/austria.htm
:-bd =D> :-bd
Points 1, 4 & 7 supported by 6 carry the argument ;)
Quote from: paulr on 25 March 2020, 02:27:12 AM
:-bd =D> :-bd
Points 1, 4 & 7 supported by 6 carry the argument ;)
Yes he is just a bloody vexillophile
No, I just like wargames armies with flags.
1st unit of Hungarians completed Sunday afternoon. Was trying to see if I could do a unit in a day (Saturday to be precise) but couldn't be bothered to concentrate that long. Its perfectly possible, only takes a few hours, but I couldn't be bothered.
Also did the CinC and 3 sub commands Sunday night.
Pics to follow tomorrow (well, later today to be precise)
Quote from: grahambeyrout on 27 February 2019, 08:20:50 PM
The mdf figures are not for me, but I do so like the look. Very old school, and simple - I would use them in a landscape of children's wooden building bricks, lollipop trees and rectangular hills, all the time thinking of H G Wells and Little Wars
Yes; I was very impressed in seeing them at CAVALIER a couple of years ago and nearly bought some but then I thought they were a bit 'wooden' and that I would prefer 'proper' 6mm from Baccus or H&R. I will be interested to see how matters proceed when the battlefield is reached.
I've a load for Nappies and ACW - tbh at arms length/game's table you can't tell the difference for most!
Skirmisher types are a bit more awkward, so I've salted a fair number of Adler across the bases ;)
Generals
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49725809047_1d9e214c74_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6LBi)IMG-20200330-WA0001 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL6LBi) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Hungarians
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49725492921_eb1243748a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iL59CR)1585780592315747111558480509273 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL59CR) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(With previously posted Hussars)
Another unit, with "attached officer" stand.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49724951033_7cc97da318_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iL2nxX)IMG-20200401-WA0003 (https://flic.kr/p/2iL2nxX) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
In Fields of Glory you can replace a stand with an attached officer. It represents a particularly good commander at regimental level, or if there are more senior officers than normal leading. I'm converting an historical list. Where a brigade equals 1 unit I'm not adding, but where the regiments that make up the bde are each big enough to be a unit, I'm putting the Bde commander in, as FoG has commanders at Corps and Divisional level.
Unlike the French, where all the uniforms are the same, I have to do some Hungarian and some German for the surrounding infantry.
Looking good ! :)
Cheers - Phil
Very nice
Spiffy!
I approve :)
Are you going to paint the edges of the bases green?
Need to see what I did with the French
Now for something completely a little different
The Carneville Legion. There were 200 infantry and 100 Hussars in Reinhard's brigade just before Aspern-Essling. I am putting them into the IR#33 Regiment ( the Hungarians on the right) for FoG - this turns it from 1 'Large' (6 bases) unit into 2 'small' (each 4 bases) units - the one with the hussars will count as having a cavalry attachment, which reduces the effectiveness of enemy skirmish fire.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49735509966_7922ed8b5c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLXumw)15860234857255688216439529366645 (https://flic.kr/p/2iLXumw) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
However, many of them never made it to the actual battle, having been ambushed the night before by a French raid.
:-bd =D> :-bd
It's these small odd-ball units that add so much interest to armies :)
Like the idea there. 8)
Quote from: paulr on 04 April 2020, 06:56:53 PM
:-bd =D> :-bd
It's these small odd-ball units that add so much interest to armies :)
Its not even a full unit! Even with BP its only 1/6th!
I'm cutting the barrels off the guns and adding a bit of toothpick instead
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49758775821_013911da81_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iP1JtX)Austrian artillery with 3d barrel (https://flic.kr/p/2iP1JtX) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
8)
Cheers - Phil
Something to go boom
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49765861257_1695ae6f34_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iPD3JD)Austrian Artillery (https://flic.kr/p/2iPD3JD) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Nice :)
I do like the toy soldier look you have with those bases, makes me think of Britain's and HG Wells etc!
:-bd =D> :-bd
Brilliant
Cheers. I don't think the general flatness can be counteracted by trying to hide it, so make it a feature, not a bug.
Once you get past that I think they figures (not my painting) look really good in a Billard table way.
I think I have massively over ordered though! However at the prices it isn't end of the world.
A bit of an experiment. A Pendraken. 2x1 base, spare gun wheels and limber. Sides are punch out slot waste from TT Combat scenery
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49766751552_ffa460f48a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iPHBoy)15867251942123043462906986439384 (https://flic.kr/p/2iPHBoy) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
8)
Looking good !
Cheers - Phil :)
Last of the core line regiments done.
All that is left for base army is light/Hager in bnoth closed and skirmish, and grenz skirmish bases, and 3 or 4 "office attachment" bases, and 6-8 AdCs
Done so far
Corp commander
4 x Division Commander
6 German infantry (+1 from different corps) (all line 6 bases each of 16 figures)
2 Hungarian
2 Grenades
8 bases artillery
Quote from: Last Hussar on 13 April 2020, 09:02:14 PM
Last of the core line regiments done.
All that is left for base army is light/jager in both closed and skirmish, and grenz skirmish bases, and 3 or 4 "office attachment" bases, and 6-8 AdCs
And a conversion into Uhlans
Done so far
Corp commander
4 x Division Commander
6 German infantry (+1 from different corps) (all line 6 bases each of 16 figures)
2 Hungarian
2 Grenades
8 bases artillery
No idea how I quoted myself!
Brigadier attachments.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49773908522_e016821ddd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iQmhUA)1586877955314429682536 (https://flic.kr/p/2iQmhUA) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
You're getting rather attached to these.
Great work
Found out my grey spray paint (citadel "standard') is dark grey. Jaegers on hold u too I get a lighter grey.
Have to be the Uhlans then.
Walt, if you're reading, which did you say to sub in by clipping of the plume and gluing a black paper diamond to make the czapka? Trouble finding the email.
Oo, do tell, I might need a few Uhlans!
Good stuff btw :)
So, not having the light enough spray grey I went back to the decals on tiles. There is a knack, but once you've got it its relatively easy to do, and the annoying fold-over is rescueable if it happens. I've done about 47 on 2x1cm tiles, plus about 12 unit names on 4x1s.
Part of the trick is once I've put a couple in the low dish I use (which is also used as a spoon rest when cooking) rub the 2 painted tiles together to sand each with the rough paint on the other.
Lockdown is helping here. Its not just the extra time I have. To allow us to spread about in the office I'm on 3 days one week, the 2 next - its the being rested and bored. I put on a film or comedy, and can take little breaks. Usually I'm busy or tired in the week, and out hiking on a Saturday.
Just a reminder for me, as I'm having trouble remembering, and my tablet doesn't like this email she. I try and find it.
QuoteThe lancers and hussars are best matched with Light dragoons in shako with cloth shebraque (then off with the pom pom and a small square of paper on top of the shako gives the Czapka and a pin for a lance - for the Uhlans)
Nice one. I might be ordering yet more Austrian line infantry from Walt in the near future so I may throw in for some lancers!
I've also got Brunswickers, and they have Uhlans. Also going to get Imperial Guard, so will need Polish Lancers.
I'm thinking of doing a mixed unit of Light and Grenadiers.
They'd be Jaeger Bombers.
....
I'll get my pelisse
;D
X_X ;D
Gimme strength ! X_X
Cheers - Phil :)
Have managed to get a can of grey spray paint, so Jaeger's now ready to finish.
Currently painting the tiles for unit status markers.
Well, that's annoying. After painting scores of strips and basing them I've accidentally found out too late a way to pick out the cross straps.
Because the laser etching is so fine, and I'm not a dexterous painter, I couldn't get a subtle enough way to show them.
Up to now I've been undercoating white and just using that as the main colour. Now I've moved onto skirmishers.
The other day I undercoated the Austrian skirmishers with what turned out to be too dark grey. Have bought another can of light-mid grey and resprayed. Painted half the open order ones, then turned to the dozen closed order, and found 7 or 8 strips have the detail picked out perfectly where the light grey hasn't covered the dark in the laser grooves.
Bugger.
Dang!
Would a very light wash pick out detail in the white ones? Just a swipe down the cross belts?
I tried that. I can't work out how to wash MDF flats. The scores are very fine, and I'm not very good.
This only showed up on a few of those I sprayed.
Drat and double drat...
IIRC I did my Austrians in white > black ink wash > drybrush white > pick out flesh/hat/trimmings/weapon and they turned out decently enough en masse and very very quick... it's very easy to over do the wash or dry brush though.
Spent the evening making pennants for lances, and cutting green paper for the top of czapkas. You can imagine how time consuming g that is in 1:200.
Well it's worse than that.
@-)
You need to get out more! ;)
And so do I! ;D
1. Yes, and have the pubs open.
But 2
Have you a better method? Because I have still got another 12 lances and 24 czapkas to do, and the thought of it is keeping me in bed.
You can't see the top of the hat very well here, but it is a piece of paper about 1.5 mm square. For reference on the pennant, that is a Pendraken 20*40 base so 2mm thick.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49808678986_a0c88142dd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iTquXm)Uhlans (https://flic.kr/p/2iTquXm) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Getting the paper cut to the right size is tricky in 1:200,as tolerances for the visual is so fine.
Can you get a hole punch? I know there's crafting punches that do many shapes and sizes, I have coveted them in Hobbycraft before...
Look grwat, but its also a great suggestion too.
Mini nail clippers are proving the best way to do the v shape. You know exactly where the blade is before cutting.
I have put triangular flags on 1/300th scale tanks, I sympathise ;)
Quote from: ianrs54 on 23 April 2020, 02:56:36 PM
I have put triangular flags on 1/300th scale tanks
Madness! This is madness!
How do you manipulate them for gluing?
A black line across the top of those pennants to hide the white paper would really lift them ;) :)
Bugger, missed it. Took a photo then realised under light from the angle you could see it; I did check as I glued.
Have gone back after this one was taken, shows up more in photos. You'll also notice glue not fully dry.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49811310331_433818f2eb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iTDZan)3rd Uhlans (https://flic.kr/p/2iTDZan) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
They look great though
Thanks. I think having a blob of PVA for the hat top fix is better than a smear- you can't see it here, but it gives it shape.
:-bd =D> :-bd
They look damned good to me.
Quote from: paulr on 23 April 2020, 07:33:14 PM
A black line across the top of those pennants to hide the white paper would really lift them ;) :)
I'm always astonished that so many people ignore that step with paper flags.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 23 April 2020, 03:59:58 PM
How do you manipulate them for gluing?
Very carefully. Last lot I did were 15mm Crusaders (II's and III's). The major problem is sizing things right, I have a load of 15mm 432's with huge Union flags on them. One thing you might try is the punchings from a comb binder...
What I worked out is put the squares on the table, then put PVA onto a 'pallet' (a old pre laser base in my case) and put the upsidedown horse man onto the glue, then pick the square up with the now glued head. Because I lined it up litre readjustment was needed pushing with tweezers.
I cut the paper until I got a strip the right width, then I used the nail clippers to cut squares, which are easy to judge by eye. Occasionally I had to clip it a little shorter.
I usually do remember to edge flags, but with these ones I was concentrating of colouring the paper on the ones that hadn't lined up properly, because they are so small, making folding difficult. They will be the ones without an edge. The ones that I folded accurately didn't need the exposed bit colouring in, so I forget the edge.
All I need to do now is the skirmishers for the Grenze/Freewilliger Bns. 48 (2x24) to be done
Problem is the coat is brown, the backpack is brown, the musket is brown, also the pack on the skirmish ones is a bit odd- the skirmishers are firing, which means for these flatish figures the pack is at an angle to the plane, so on the figure it tends to wrap round back and left side, giving a boxy appearance to the blokes shoulders/back. It really is the only downside of these figures.
I'm going to use a acrylic paint for the musket stock, not sure what to do about the pack, as I'm not sure I have enough different browns.
Can you paint the brown for one piece and leave the other in the bare MDF? At game table length would that work... ?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 24 April 2020, 10:19:18 AM
I'm going to use a acrylic paint for the musket stock, not sure what to do about the pack, as I'm not sure I have enough different browns.
I've only got 19 different brown model paints, plus 6 different brown test pots for basing/terrain
Quote from: toxicpixie on 24 April 2020, 11:06:14 AM
Can you paint the brown for one piece and leave the other in the bare MDF? At game table length would that work... ?
No, they're undercoated.
Durn.
Two colours of brown pen, then?!
;D
I've found a different brown pen... But its the same shade :'(
I have found I have 3 pots of brown paint - going to give them a go.
Life conspires to thwart you!
Paint?! On miniatures?! The horror!
Orcs will tell you that paint is corrosive, so he leaves his figures unsullied.
IV ArmeeKorps, Aspen Essling May 1809
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49817273457_1ae3ca3fe4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iUbxMT)IV Armeekorps May 1809 (https://flic.kr/p/2iUbxMT) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
5th Column
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49816964221_a1b9024724_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iU9XSe)20200425_022751 (https://flic.kr/p/2iU9XSe) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
4th Column
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49816431953_cc7fc59090_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iU7eDc)20200425_022745 (https://flic.kr/p/2iU7eDc) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Avant Garde
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49816964626_da5ee4db35_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iU9XZd)20200425_022740 (https://flic.kr/p/2iU9XZd) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Quote from: Last Hussar on 25 April 2020, 12:06:29 PM
Orcs will tell you that paint is corrosive, so he leaves his figures unsullied.
No that is my painting mountain range. I have several thousands of painted figures.
Brilliant
Trial Battle of Fields of Glory. 64 and 96 figure units looking good.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49817629441_f138381257_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iUdnBx)15878285373371904756138430855916 (https://flic.kr/p/2iUdnBx) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Superb
Impressive!
"Quantity has a quality all it's own" As Stalin probably never said :)
Its difficult to frame for a photo - get the whole sweep in, and you just have blobs - show the units and you can't get the scale of the table.
(Unrelated question - the dice are the GW ones - are they 12mm?)
Really impressive.
Many years ago a fellow gamer said about some unpainted figures in a game "You might as well just use wooden blocks"
Here you are superb painted wooden markers.
Are you going to continue?
By the way. Who won?
Bonza.
Looks better than any game of FoG-R I've seen before, but Then i do like the big battalions :)
:-bd =D> :-bd =D>
Not finished it yet, the only other time I've played was about a year ago with Sunjester - just a small game and that was 1st edition.
Its quite table heavy and the only QRs are on a closed Fb group. I need to amend the ones I typed up for that. After a couple of turns I was in the swing of it, but having only the tables in the book is a pain. Once typed up it will be simple - 1 page per phase.
2 turn the Austrians cavalry moved up, the French made a defensive charge, and the Austrians counter charged. The dice between them were average, except the low ones were with the French. Uhlans followed up, and a regiment of hussars ran away. In FoG if cavalry take any hit in close combat they are "spent" for the rest of the game, so 5 of the 6 cavalry in the game are below full effectiveness early on.
The Austrians, being unreformed usually need to get within 2 move units, while the French skirmishers project decent power out to 6. The Austrians are going to need their large units to absorb damage (-1 hit for being large) and hope they can overcome the smaller French units.
Looks very impressive
Are you going to paint the edges of the movement trays to match the green of the figure bases?
I'm not planning to. As I've mentioned before you can't hide the flat nature of the figures, especially skirmishers, so I'm making a feature of it for that "Brandy and cigars - Billiard table" look. Also everything is one pose per type. If I was a better painter I might.
The laser also gives the MDF a colour and sheen of real wood. This is why I haven't flocked the bases either.
Any ideas how I can clean the base edges to remove the paint? (The big tubes of acrylic from "The Works")
I know some people don't like markers on the table, and the trays have the info in them, but again I am making a feature of the table top appearance, rather than making a diorama. Also the rules give the bases as 30mm deep not the 20 I use, so a unit in "tactical" is the right depth with those added.
I'm calling the game an Austrian victory. French Right flank almost turned, and the Corps is beginning to get fragile - especially that right most division.
Decisive moment was when a French Square (the unit on the hill on the right) came under threat by both infantry and cavalry. The infantry (in the photo its the large unit on the right by the red dice) charged it, and caused it to retire left wards - away from the charge. Firing from the woods Broke it, causing another unit to Break. A charge against the Freiwilliger Bn (in the photo its on the central hill, next to the Divisional commander) that was on the left end of the wood (triangle of 3 trees) failed, not only did the French Regiment run away, but the conscripts made their roll, to pursue. Their original tormenters being beyong pursuit range they smashed into the unit to their right, forcing them back into friends who then became disordered because of it.
Although the Austrian Right (left in the photo) has had a bit of a slap, its strong enough to pin the French left. Davout has decided maybe a withdrawl would be better than a rolling up!
As mdf is absorbent I dont think you will be able to remove paint from the bases.
If it's dried quick a flick over with your nail/edge of a knife might flake it off.
If it's dried *in* then one of the very dark browns from the Works (great minds) is almost exactly the match of the laser cut edges on the mdf...
Quote from: toxicpixie on 26 April 2020, 12:06:59 PM
If it's dried quick a flick over with your nail/edge of a knife might flake it off.
If it's dried *in* then one of the very dark browns from the Works (great minds) is almost exactly the match of the laser cut edges on the mdf...
The only risk with using a blade on the edge of the MDF is scraping off the burnt layer and needing to paint it anyway :(
Swings and roundabouts I guess :)
Yers, it's an awkward balance!
The Works tube craft paint that I think matches the mdf edges nicely is "PNTA-149 Raw Umber" - it's very dark brown in the tube and retains that colour when painted :)
Using Google Lens to OCR the FoG tables in to a word processor to edit into a precis/play sheet (beyond QR - will be a run through of the turn) realised where I was going wrong. This is why my QR goes through step by step.
Really impressive, and a lot of painting involved!!!
Terry
Lockdown helped, and being Austrians.
Did you know the inside of the box of Aldi own brand Wheat (not Weeta) biscuits (not bix) is the same colour as MDF?
How do I know? I've made 'lids' for the movement trays - I can leave the marker tiles in the trays, stack them up and rubber band the lid on the top, meaning I don't have to spend time at the start of a game putting them in. I might make card 'unit templates' to put in so when unpacked its easy to see what figures go where - especially for the Austrians who have a wide array of units and uniforms.
Nice!
Good idea :)
Gentlemen of the Officer's Mess,
and Nobby,
Advice please.
Thinking of getting a French Ally - which one do you suggest. Nice flags are an advantage. One that I could use as just a Division within a corps would be nice.
and secondly
Painting Brunswickers. Would you go black, or could/should I use the very dark grey - Citadel 'Standard'?
Bavarians
Brunswickers - if they're 3D figures I'm sold on Citadels black Contrast paint - works really well!
If it's the MDF... I'd go dark grey-black, give a little bit of light to catch the eye?
Its the MDF
Definitely dark grey-black, I hardly ever use black now, certainly not for significant areas
https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=NgzwRlpd&id=3B10C9850CC417A563B957210F33E2B5D99D7503&thid=OIP.NgzwRlpd6pifhQrTA9ragQHaHa&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.wargamestore.com%2fimages%2fP%2fMechanicusGrey-01.jpg&exph=600&expw=600&q=citadel+standard+grey&simid=608001501454599307&selectedIndex=0 (https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=NgzwRlpd&id=3B10C9850CC417A563B957210F33E2B5D99D7503&thid=OIP.NgzwRlpd6pifhQrTA9ragQHaHa&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.wargamestore.com%2fimages%2fP%2fMechanicusGrey-01.jpg&exph=600&expw=600&q=citadel+standard+grey&simid=608001501454599307&selectedIndex=0)
Might be a bit darker in real life
Brunswickers - in theory quick to paint. You could ask Walt to go over the uiniform are lightly with the laser - then they would only need a dry brush of grey.
"
BUT he might charge you extra as "pre painted " pre- burnt?
And I already have them...
I'm thinking Hesse-Darmstatd. I like the flag (similar to Prussian and Russian). 5 Battalions, so just 1 unit in FoG.
Also thinking might do base edges green, but not movement trays.
A good project is a French army with no frenchmen in it other than the Marshals..
VII Corps is 8 Small units of Bavarian infantry with 1 large and 1 small unit of cavalry
VIII Corps for Wurttemberg is 5 small infantry and 3 small cavalry
Each are in 2 Divisions
That is basically a perfectly good FoGN army - 18 units in 4 commands, and one that can be played by two people. They would play exactly the same as French - the troops are as good in the army book, but more colourful. AND with 2 larger flags per unit, which differ between units
Tempting... :-
I've got 16 French infantry units, need a couple more Light, and more Cavalry. I'd also like the Imperial Guard- that's just 6 Infantry plus 4 Cavalry (and for FoG only 2 Cavalry). A unit is only £2. £60 gives me 3 'different' Corps.
Very tempting. :d
You know in 1812, you can have Prussians too? ;)
I did WSS Prussians (real Pendraken). I said I would never paint that much dark blue again, because I'd undercoated black, and couldn't see where I'd painted. Also the French are blue, so boring.
1812 the French have different flags, so
1) I'd need a load of command stands with Tricolours and
2) I like the lozenge.
If I was going to 1812 I'd do Russia, at some point I might do them for Fourth Coalition.
Remembered why I have so many Austrians - its due to the number of different types of uniform - Grenadier, Grenzer, Landwehr. Bought a little bit more of each than needed for my model list.
Two units of Grenadiers painted ((2nd not based). One Hungarian, one not.
No pics unless you ask - imagine like all the other Line I've painted, just in pointier hats, and a dab of colour on the back
Quote from: Last Hussar on 06 May 2020, 06:28:45 PM
Two units of Grenadiers painted ((2nd not based). One Hungarian, one not.
No pics unless you ask - imagine like all the other Line I've painted, just in pointier hats, and a dab of colour on the back
Pics or it didn't happen
Quote from: Noktu on 06 May 2020, 07:39:02 PM
Pics or it didn't happen
Oh, OK. later, possibly in a day or so. I'll finish off the current bunch and upload some to Flikr.
You do know I have beer that needs drinking?
Hmmm, camera too close
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49865053877_8331623870_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iYprfe)Grenadiers (https://flic.kr/p/2iYprfe) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Hats definitely pointer ;)
By way of light relief (ie I am procrastinating painting the boots of the other 3 regiments of grenadiers)
Pendraken mdf 20x40 base - 1.5 grams. A unit worth of 6 bases therefore weigh 9 grams
Bag of 12 strips (1 unit at 2 to the base) 4 grams. The bag they come in is 2g! A unit is therefore 13g.
5 units = 60 bases
Infantry 20g
Bases 90g!
---------------
Total 110g
a shade under 2g a base
RUB tray holds 80 bases - which means if mdf weighs the same per cubic mm a weight of 120g
The walls are approx. 23mm high, call it a base depth for the cut outs and to make maths easy, and a total of just over 1240mm (31 40mm bases) long (inc central divider) = Approx 40g
Tray total 160g
80 bases x 2g = 160g
80 bases = 160 strips. =13.3 packs = 53g approx
of the 320g in a full tray of infantry troops, less than 1/6 is the figures!
7 trays in a 9L RUB
Max weight 2.24kg - will probably be less because infantry in close order was weighed - based artillery comes out at approx. 2g a base, skirmish will be less.
Company lists box weight as 900g
I can carry two armies for about 3kg
Movement trays are 20g (6 bases) and 14g (4) with marker tiles.
33g a unit.
Where's Ian when you need him
Work faster :!! ;)
Since about 8pm Thursday I've painted 288 figures.
Fair enough
Quote from: paulr on 08 May 2020, 11:15:13 PM
Where's Ian when you need him
Work faster :!! ;)
Right 'ere, I suing you for breach of copyright !!!!! :d :d
The last photo looks like a typical manoeuvre for Austrians under your command! ;D
The Germans have a Hungarian commander, the Hungarians have a German commander, they are ordered to advance forward, one veers right, the other veers left!
No, they are moving from column into line, this is part way through the Hungarians coming up level.
Back to weights, and rather than just become obsessed by the arithmetic (if somebody wants to check that - I did it in my head), a few thoughts
10 Pendraken (ECW command) come to 10g - and 10-12 is what people put on a 40x20
This means that when you pick up a base of Commission mdf they feel very fragile. I don't think they are, its just the association with lightness (fun fact - Kenwood mixers are designed 'heavy' to help with the impression of quality).
Although I use superglue on metal (actually what I do is pva on the base, glue the superglued figures into that, then immediately flock) my suspicion is with the mdf->pva->mdf the bond will be stronger; the glue soaks in (unlike any metal bond) and the lightness means less strain on the glue - 1/3g on a 40x1mm bead. It also means that if they do fly around due to a pothole the actual weight hitting the other stand will be a lot less. Also the mdf is soft, so more give, and I am not so much as painting as staining, as the mdf must be absorbing the undercoat, and paint/ink to paint adhesion must be better than paint to metal, so I think less likely to chip, though I'm guessing the flagpoles and lances may be lost!
I'm not quite sure where you are going with all the maths...
But a base of MDF figures is going to feel very light - with some of the plastic WM figures, I glued them on to steel bases, just to give them a similar heft to metal figures on plastic bases. Not entirely sure why I found this necessary, but it did make them feel right.
For transport, I think you are right the 'painting' will be robust, whether the sticky out bits of the figures will be, I don't know. But perhaps a bit of bubble wrap in the top of each tray will do enough to hold them in place.
I hate painting- I took a break and got engrossed. (Why yes, I do have a diagnosis for high functioning autism, how did you know?)
I'm thinking of gluing felt on the underside of the box trays. Bubble wrap might be too deep, but I'll have a look at that suggestion.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 09 May 2020, 01:36:21 PM
This means that when you pick up a base of Commission mdf they feel very fragile. I don't think they are, its just the association with lightness (fun fact - Kenwood mixers are designed 'heavy' to help with the impression of quality).
This is a known phenomenon - probably mentioned in an episode of No Such Thing as a Fish (a podcast from the QI Elves) - eg the weight of cutlery you eat with in a restaurant can strongly influence perception of its quality :-B
Having moved a number of rocks in the garden this afternoon, there is a point where it tips from weight indicating quality to just being bloomin heavy...
The very expensive Beats headphones are just bog standard headphones with weights in. Never mind the quality, feel the weight!
Quote from: fred. on 09 May 2020, 05:46:22 PM
Having moved a number of rocks in the garden this afternoon, there is a point where it tips from weight indicating quality to just being bloomin heavy...
=O
FINALLY finished the basing.
Painting on pause for a few days, going to tidy up the house tomorrow.
Then a bit of an audit to decide what next.
A serious side to my joke about 19th Century needing to pick a uniform - ESPECIALLY Austrians - is in the bit about buying too much.
Metal is far nicer, but that comes at a cost. I would have had to stuck to an OrBat rigidly, then maybe added units on later. I would have had little chance for variation outside of that. With these I can knock out a 6 base unit in an evening or two, and adding that extra Grenz or Landwehr to the box costs £2, but gives me flexibility.
If I win the lottery I'd happily replace in metal, because someone else would be doing the painting! Until then, with my limited time, limited money and limited patience with a brush, I'm happy with these.
They look great to me L.H.
Happy house tidying.
I hope be taking them to Tring one day! So you can see them there.
Finally gave them a run out, as part of a Sunjester "Bubble".
For Sj and I, the game is more about the social aspect than winning (also 'winning' can you explain what that means please) so the game is more fun than solo. I took 6 pints of carry out draught from my local (who is doing off sales for the duration); you forget how good it tastes!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49999099548_402e6e7118_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jbfsmu)Facing Armies (https://flic.kr/p/2jbfsmu) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49999872882_6f13466661_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jbjqeQ)The French Advance (https://flic.kr/p/2jbjqeQ) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
More on Flickr - pics are the link.
Those look awesome fella! 8)
Only 6? 🍻
[duplicate]
Sj has bottles. Also afternoon drinking, and because its from a pub more expensive than Aldi. And I had to carry it a mile.
You've been to Sj's house - I'm only a mile away, and always up for a game.
Zippy looking table ! :-bd
Cheers - Phil
Excellent, when this stupidity is over, I'm in.
Looking well, must feel good to get them on the table!
2 games with them (plus 2 solo games, but I never feel like that counts)
2nd game was Blucher (today). because I have been painting towards a FoG:N OOB, I didn't have enough Austrian artillery or French cavalry. So, when I can be arsed to paint more, that's what will be up next.
Sounds good - how's your find Blucher as a game?
Its ok. Different to most rules because its so high level, so it lacks a lot of things because they aren't needed, such as formations - that sort of thing is the problem of the brigadiers. Its more about where do you concentrate your efforts, because you have a limited number of activation points, and you don't know how many.
I really like them. You feel like Napoleon or Kuznetsov etc, to me!
But they're very "chalk or cheese"
And a lot of people don't get on with them.
I really enjoyed the game (not just because I won ;D ). Early 19th century isn't usually my favourite period, but I'll certainly play Blucher again.
Sunjester was looking at one end of the field thinking if I attacked there he didn't have enough units to hold me, I was looking at the same situation thinking how much of a slocg it would be and I could easily get routed; I wanted to move there but the 'I don't know how much momentum I have' problem meant that I dare not split my attack in two places.
Its always funny finding out your opponent's view on the game afterwards; ive found sitting on the other side of the table gives you a whole new perspective.
Excellent, glad you both approved :D
"Why didnt you just..." is a great post mortem.
Quote from: toxicpixie on 27 June 2020, 10:43:42 AM
Excellent, glad you both approved :D
"Why didnt you just..." is a great post mortem.
Better than "What you did wrong was..." from someone who won by absurdly good luck.
"What you did wrong was..." not bring my lucky Dice rolls ;)
The people that 'amuse' me are the ones who complain about their poor rolls and your good ones when their poor tactics leave them needing 6s when you only need to roll 4s ;)
Ahhh, that's playing the rules not the game! Terrible folk, that. Even worse when you wrote the rules ;)
Three things lead to my defeat at 19th Century (Any of it, not just the early bit)
1) Sunjester's Lucky Dice (Orcs will confirm; three 6s on 4 dice is taking the piss)
2) My Dice (again, ask Orcs)
3) I always choose the Austrians...
At least with Blucher the French Skirmishers are a lot less effective than in FoG.
Need to paint more artillery, and then more Cavalry for Blucher - What I have is for FoG OOBs. Going to get the Imperial Guard as well. Next game we'll use the campaign system.
1) Sunjester's Lucky Dice (Orcs will confirm; three 6s on 4 dice is taking the piss) - But absolutely normal for Sunjesters dice
2) My Dice (again, ask Orcs) _- Buy some more. Take them outside where they can see your old dice. THen infromnt of them either smash the old dice with a hammer or burn them with a blow torch. then explain to the new dice that is what happens to dice that do not throw the correct numbers.
3) I always choose the Austrians...Why - choose British,
As much as I'd like to do the British, in not sure it is possible to get rules that work for them because they were so different to the rest of Europe. Also the British didn't take part in the Austro-Prussian and -Franco wars of the 1850s and 60s.
But they did take part in the Crimea, and India, look how well they did there, upsetting allies and insulting those supposed to be on our side. The Army is too far spread to help really....
The navy was rather useful, at looking good. Its tactics werent kerping uo with technology, just coz it was bigger, did it make it better?
We were still paraniod the French would invade in the 1850s. Palmerston's Follies anyone...
And they had a tendency to start supporting one side, then switch to back for the underdog ( FPW), or just pull out without getting involved due to business (ACW, Maximillian in Mexico).
What statues to pull down from this period, we didn't deserve it...
Look, I'm trying to get Sunjester to do little wooden Russians for 1805, don't confuse the matter!
Quote from: mad lemmey on 28 June 2020, 06:56:47 PM
The navy was rather useful, at looking good. Its tactics werent kerping uo with technology, just coz it was bigger, did it make it better?
Would you care to elaborate on that, given that it converted sail ships to steam and introduced the screw frigate?
But its tactics were still those of Nelson.
Fair point.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 28 June 2020, 08:05:25 PM
Look, I'm trying to get Sunjester to do little wooden Russians for 1805, don't confuse the matter!
Two problems their,
1 SJ is not really interested in Napoleonics- Yes he will happilly play the game as he is a wargames slapper - Any Period, Any rules , Any side.
2 He has lots to paint that interests him.
Quote from: mad lemmey on 29 June 2020, 07:59:38 AM
But its tactics were still those of Nelson.
Fair point.
I think the problems arise in the late Victorian period as demonstrated by the loss of the VICTORIA and the signals debacle of WWI. Of course you might argue that such failures make a period MORE interesting.
The signals problem in WWI were due to a lack of voice radio, and coal smoke. Overall in the only major battle only one signal would have appered to have gone astray, BCF to 5th Battle Squadron. Yes there were problems at Dogger Bank, but that was due to an unclear signal not not seeing it.
Signals problem is WWI was as much down to radio being new and no-one having worked through the practical application of it, so you had the Admiralty giving orders directly to the ships.
Plus lots of reliance on short-range comms by flags, which had the problem of smoke and damage - which I suspect was hardly a new problem for WWI, but ranges were probably longer, so harder to see.
Plus RN focusing on volume of fire over accuracy - which was the reverse of the German approach. Coupled with manual range spotting trying to work amongst the scatter of lots of shooting from lots of different guns.
One of the major issues in WWI was that nobody realised the visibility issues so units at the periphery failed to inform the centre of what was happening. In Nelson's day, subject to smoke, the fleets were visible to the admirals. At Jutland, Jellicoe was deploying his fleet of dreadnoughts without proper scouting intelligence. There was too much of doing as one was told and not enough about ensuring effective communication.
Update.
The problem with Walt's little wooden men is the price, just £2 for 12 strips of 8 men. I'm looking at doing the entire Bavarian corps. At battalion level (3 bases to a unit,)! It going to come to about £30.
Plus they are easy to paint being flatish.
I can now field ALL of the Brunswick MiB, again at 3 bases to a BP unit. For Blucher I need less than I have.
The bigger problem is Uhlans, because I have to cut squares to glue on top for the czapka, and the pennants on the lances.
So, Bavarians next, then maybe Wurttemberg and or Westphalia. Possibly the Poles.
Wondering about getting a Russian army for Christmas.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 28 April 2021, 12:05:13 AM
Wondering about getting a Russian army for Christmas.
Learn from Napoleon and Hitler, Don't go anywhere near Russia or Russians in the winter. - Buy them now!
Quote from: fred. on 29 June 2020, 03:59:14 PM
Signals problem is WWI was as much down to radio being new and no-one having worked through the practical application of it, so you had the Admiralty giving orders directly to the ships.
Plus lots of reliance on short-range comms by flags, which had the problem of smoke and damage - which I suspect was hardly a new problem for WWI, but ranges were probably longer, so harder to see.
Plus RN focusing on volume of fire over accuracy - which was the reverse of the German approach. Coupled with manual range spotting trying to work amongst the scatter of lots of shooting from lots of different guns.
Volume of fire might have seemed sensible at the time.
You can see a lot of design features which play to the "You'll never see, let along hit anything at 8 miles range" school.
The recent example of Tsushima had a lot of Navies reevaluating their fire policies, and often drawing incorrect conclusions.
It's a bit like early WW2 tanks.
There's a little prior experience, but armour's now three times as thick (More if you're in a Matilda), speeds are up to 10 times faster and gunnery is completely different.
Sure, you've had plenty of time to practice, but most of that was spent driving a 15cwt truck with a plywood tank chassis on top (unless you're Russian, in which case you've likely been purged).
So everybody goes into 1939/40 with their vision of the modern tank force...
Some worked better than others.
Since the arceologists have been at work -
Royal Navy Gunnery was actually better that German in WWI, the Germans lacked director fire control til 1916, but found the range eariler than the RN, but RN ships held it better. The loss of the battlecrusiers was mainly due to ignoreing the saftey precautions.
Tank design in 1940 was fitted to doctrine, and yes on average the Germans were rather better at it. However compare an A13 MkII with a Panzer IIIE. Armour is of the same order, the 13 is rather faster and has a better gun. THe major difference was in how they were used, and numbers.
Quote from: Orcs on 28 April 2021, 10:04:44 AM
Learn from Napoleon and Hitler, Don't go anywhere near Russia or Russians in the winter. - Buy them now!
But then they will be ready to fight in Spring!
Quote from: ianrs54 on 28 April 2021, 11:00:36 AM
Since the arceologists have been at work -
*snip naval examples*
Tank design in 1940 was fitted to doctrine, and yes on average the Germans were rather better at it. However compare an A13 MkII with a Panzer IIIE. Armour is of the same order, the 13 is rather faster and has a better gun. THe major difference was in how they were used, and numbers.
Ahhh but soft factors & non-obvious hard factors come into play - which is mostly what wins battles (see your comment on losing Battlecruisers to people ignoring safety procedures!).
Reliability, ease of use, crew comfort and vision - all far better on early to mid war German tanks. All baaaaaad on UK/French designs - compare say bailing out of an A13 (or crewing it up in the first place). The Pzr III crew can be in the tank and fighting in five mins, it took 10-15 mins to get the driver into or out of a Cruiser, and considerable time for the turret crew as well! It's not often mentioned but UK crews bailed early and often - they knew if they waiting till it it was needed they'd be dead. Reliability is another - when you see from the maintenance returns how few actual runners UK & Commonwealth units had even with *fresh* vehicles, it's no surprising that allegedly smaller German formations performed far better - they often had more fighting tanks at point of contact!
Fuelling is a great example - French tanks in 1940 used a terrible system - fill a small bladder from the fuel truck, carry to the tank, attach to fuel tank, squeeze/pump in, back and forth. Took 30-60mins *per tank* to fill up - all of which required special connectors and a lot of manual faff. German tanks - stick the nozzle of the hose connected directly to the fuel truck into the tanks fuel cap, and done - at worst just pour a jerry can into it. Time to refuel? Five mins... whole damn Abteilung refuelled in the time it takes one French tank to be done...
When German design "caught up" with guns and armour the soft factors that had made them so successful just got lost. Meanwhile Allied soft factors exceeded the early war gap and still retained good enough hard factors.
If I could find the link I read a great write up from the Army's comparative testing of Sherman, Cromwell, Pzr IV and T-34 from '43 - PzrIV was really badly made, pretty unreliable and poor on crew fatigue/usability but was clearly worse than earlier examples made pre/early war, Sherman was utterly boss, as was Cromwell ("assuming current problems with reliability are ironed out") - both could do a battalion sized 60km route march across unfamiliar territory and then go straight into combat *as a full battalion* with crews who were still able to fight, and T-34 was... unreliable, virtually impossible to drive and fight, and whilst great for hard stats they felt it was a bad combat tank unless you expected to use it once, briefly and right up from on the front lines as the crew would be too shagged and too many runners have dropped out due to mechanical failure to be useful!
Those are some really good points, and things that are rarely represented in rules. There are occasional rules for '2 man turrets' or similar, but rarely rules for the fatigue the tank causes on the crew (fatigue is often missing from many wargame rules). Perhaps this is where the abstraction of BKC and its command values comes in, and you could limit certain countries / years to maximum CV for their armour.
The fatigue causing and reliability of different tanks was huge - the Allies drove their Shermans and Cromwells 100s of miles from Normandy to Holland in a space of days, with the loss of very few tanks through mechanical faults. I always contrast this to one of the German reinforcements units sent to Arnhem, a unit of 13 Tiger Is, that drove about 12 miles and had 11 tanks break down during that road march!
So back on topic...
Ordered the entire Bavarian Corps for 1809, something you can do at 32p a base. This will be enough for 3 bases/battalion for BP. Blucher and FoGN don't need this many.
Last night started 4 units of Landwehr- now painted grey. Need to do backpacks, boots, faces etc. 48 strips- 384 figures.
Lesson learned was probably best to still do an undercoat with spray paint. I was using a 1 inch brush, and the MDF went a little hairy, plus needed two coats. However method tested on Landwehr means can be explained as substandard clothing. I can use the 1 inch brush for jacket colour, having sealed with spray- I'll find a shop with plastic loyalty cards to have as a paint guard to protect trousers of the undercoat colour
Wondering about doing Württemberg, Westphalia and Poland next, but only enough for Blucher, 12-18 bases each
Quote from: Last Hussar on 30 April 2021, 08:51:47 AM
Wondering about doing Württemberg, Westphalia and Poland next, but only enough for Blucher, 12-18 bases each
Yes!
Going to need more trays.
And that means another box.
Just ordered some mdf bases to go with a load of mdf ACW figures that I got for a good deal off a fellow Blogger.
Quote from: fred. on 29 April 2021, 08:47:26 PM
Those are some really good points, and things that are rarely represented in rules. There are occasional rules for '2 man turrets' or similar, but rarely rules for the fatigue the tank causes on the crew (fatigue is often missing from many wargame rules). Perhaps this is where the abstraction of BKC and its command values comes in, and you could limit certain countries / years to maximum CV for their armour.
The fatigue causing and reliability of different tanks was huge - the Allies drove their Shermans and Cromwells 100s of miles from Normandy to Holland in a space of days, with the loss of very few tanks through mechanical faults. I always contrast this to one of the German reinforcements units sent to Arnhem, a unit of 13 Tiger Is, that drove about 12 miles and had 11 tanks break down during that road march!
Absolutely!
There's many many ways you can model the fatigue and reliability - Commander style with CV rolls (though that's an awkward interface between reliability/fatigue/command - eg those Germans at Arnhem would have had more than two Tiger appear ;)), random breakdown tables, arbitrarily changing points values not just for ability but also availability and usability, strict adherence to not just TOEs but also unit level maintenance details and actual strengths as modified by how long the unit was in the field for, increased friction in order changes/casualty recovery/armour saves etc etc.
None of the above will suit many gamers, and are especially awkward for competitions where things must be "equal", just like they were in real life :D
Now back to MDF, I quite fancy some of Walts Romans - anyone got some?
Also, Last Hussar, any excuse for more wood :D
I have a load of his MDF ACW and they're nice - I really should finish up more than the one BBB brigade I did per side, but even sprayed the grey or blue base coat they actually look OK! Very board game pieces but decent.
Quote from: toxicpixie on 29 April 2021, 10:20:28 AM
T-34 was... unreliable, virtually impossible to drive and fight, and whilst great for hard stats they felt it was a bad combat tank unless you expected to use it once, briefly and right up from on the front lines as the crew would be too shagged and too many runners have dropped out due to mechanical failure to be useful!
But as Stalin said "Quantity has a quality all of its own"
Doesn't do you any good if all the quantity breaks down before it has a chance to become quality ;)
When a portion of your production rolls straight from production line to front line in a couple of hundred yards perhaps expecting to use it once, briefly and right up from on the front lines was a reasonable expectation!
That's more common for late war Germans, as is the factory primer approach to camo ;)
Didn't do them much good then, either :D
384 faces painted and trousers redone on sides where 1st coat missed.
Hats next.
384 figures on 24 bases of Landwehr finished.
Started Thursday, didn't do any Friday, completed 15 minutes ago
Nice - you've got that mdf painting down pat!
"Scenic" Basing included?
Bases are left a flat green - I can't disguise the flat nature. Also I leave the movement trays unpainted with the darker side up, so it has an oak-style finish. You've heard of Beer and Pretzls? this is 'Brandy and Cigar' style (Actually beer and tortilla with hummus.)
And with the delicate smell of burnt MDF wafting through your nostrils ;)
I've been toying with just painted bases and I'm actually coming round to that idea...
Might be better with the MDF stuff, as they are slightly abstract.
Here is a typical photo showing the flat bases
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/50774948128/in/dateposted-public/
Very old-school. I like.
Cracking, love the in game shots!
Did they all recover from the earthquake...
So, been painting again, and I am resurrecting this thread after more than a year;
Painted the Imperial Guard, so Sunjester might be a happy bunny (because what he needs to go with his dice rolling is obviously elite troops)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52253632719_8df67f90d0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nBtww4)Le Garde Imperial (https://flic.kr/p/2nBtww4) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52253367808_5c2a71bc81_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nBsaLC)IMG_20220731_124502 (https://flic.kr/p/2nBsaLC) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Up to now we've been using counters to represent units in square, this weekend I 'painted' actual markers.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52253845310_a2b0cc6451_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nBuBHq)IMG_20220731_123231 (https://flic.kr/p/2nBuBHq) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
12 strips in a pack mean 12 markers (can't remember where I got the Guard square strips from - might have ordered 2 extra strips)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52253367773_5b6dc816d7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nBsaL2)Squares (https://flic.kr/p/2nBsaL2) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Sorry that one is a bit blurry.
While the plan was always to make markers up, these were meant to Wuttemburg, but after undercoating I noticed the hat was different, so made squares. Now wondering - Austrian squares next, or French Allies units?
Looking back at this thread I note that I was talking about Uhlans, and the czapka.
Here is the effort I did about 2-3 years ago
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49811310331_433818f2eb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iTDZan)3rd Uhlans (https://flic.kr/p/2iTDZan) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
I can't remember what I used as the base unit, but I put some effort in these. First I cut the pom-pom off the shako, and glued on the czapka top - these were green paper cut into 1-1.5mm squares - and yes that was difficult.
Next I printed the pennants - this was basically a long strip of black and yellow. I cut and folded them round the lances (more in a mo on these), then cut to length/added swallow tail.
Each lance is a bristle from a yard broom, cut to length. These I just glued to the side of the figure. There was no art in the gluing - I couldn't make a bead thin enough, so each lance was just dipped in the nozzle, and then glued on to the prone figure.
(update - It turns out I have posted pics of these, but without the method explaination)
Nice to have an update on these, which still look really nice to me 8) .
I am still waiting to play with them.
Name a date!
So, I've tested positive with Covid (I'm fine, feels like a mild cold), so Austrian squares are being painted. Having problem with the gold bit on the plume- my gold pens won't 'ink'.
Quote. . . so Austrian squares are being painted. Having problem with the gold bit on the plume- my gold pens won't 'ink'.
La plume de ma tante . . .
These plums are tainted.
5 Austrian squares done.
Realised as I started the 4th I hadn't put the facing colours on.
My reasoning is now don't have to worry which regiment they are for...
(Inner aspie is now sulking)
Quote from: Last Hussar on 31 July 2022, 09:36:24 PMName a date!
After you have got over the lurgy, get well soon
What do you want to play?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 01 August 2022, 11:40:56 PMWhat do you want to play?
Napoleonic's with your wooden men.
Talking of which...
Austrian squares;
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52258273511_4e4d0f31da_z.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/gp/lasthussar/ARfY2Y87AF)Same squares, different angle. (https://www.flickr.com/gp/lasthussar/ARfY2Y87AF) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52258288643_0b98c84490_z.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/gp/lasthussar/tzZ0520awB)Austrian squares (https://www.flickr.com/gp/lasthussar/tzZ0520awB) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Very nice, I'm not sure why but put me in mind of Morris dancers :-X
Is your intention to use those as a switch out between line and square formations?
No, in Blucher you mark units in "prepared" status. A base represents 1000s of men; in 'grand scale' it is 3000-5000 men. Up to now we've been using counters.
If I use the figures for Black Powder we can just rearrange the stands.
Very good, I do like using figures for markers wherever possible
Me too, I can afford to do it with MDF. Also much easier and quicker to colour in.
New subproject. Now doing the French Cavalry Corps.
Initial aim is 9 bases of Cuirassier, and 3 of Carabiniers. This will make 4 units for "Blucher".
Bugger. It appears I only ordered enough for 6 bases of Cuirasses. Need to find out how much he'll charge to send 1 or 2 packs.
Bugger.
So, Walt contacted re extra Cuirassiers.
In the meantime, what I have painted this week (well, yesterday)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52265126385_f0eedfdb7d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nCurbH)Cuirassiers (https://flic.kr/p/2nCurbH) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
I now have 6 bases of cuirass, 6 of hussar, and 12 of cheval-leger, plus the 12 bases of Guard Cavalry.
Should I make guidons/standards for my 1809 French cavalry? If they are 80cm square that makes them 4mm for the figures.
Make em overscale
Quote from: Last Hussar on 05 August 2022, 11:00:46 AMShould I make guidons/standards for my 1809 French cavalry? If they are 80cm square that makes them 4mm for the figures.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 05 August 2022, 11:00:46 AMShould I make guidons/standards for my 1809 French cavalry? If they are 80cm square that makes them 4mm for the figures.
And you ask us because.....?
Wargamers. And by asking this, no doubt I will find out incredibly important information about a cup of tea Nobby had in a motorway services in 1997.
Can't help with Nobby's tea drinking habits but on the matter of guidons/ standards:
If you don't add them will it irk you every time you use them?
If you don't add them will you notice after the first couple of times they are on a table?
If you don't add them will other people notice?
If you don't add them will the people who notice care?
If the answer to all these questions is no, don't bother.
If the answer to the first question is yes, add them.
If the answer to question two is yes, add them.
If the answer to questions three and/ or four are yes, get less observant and/ or less picky opponents and don't add them. :)
YMMV
I won't miss them, but I will be wistful for them.
I'm adding. All cavalry have them?
Not always ;)
Quote from: Last Hussar on 05 August 2022, 02:47:35 PMI won't miss them, but I will be wistful for them.
And I'd make a point of honour to remind you everytime the appeared on the table!
See! Better friends, that's the answer! :)
QuoteCan't help with Nobby's tea drinking habits but on the matter of guidons/ standards:
If you don't add them will it irk you every time you use them?
If you don't add them will you notice after the first couple of times they are on a table?
If you don't add them will other people notice?
If you don't add them will the people who notice care?
If the answer to all these questions is no, don't bother.
If the answer to the first question is yes, add them.
If the answer to question two is yes, add them.
If the answer to questions three and/ or four are yes, get less observant and/ or less picky opponents and don't add them. :)
YMMV
As someone who has known Last Hussar for some time, I can answer for him
Q1: If you don't add them will it irk you every time you use them?A: Yes it will.
Q2 If you don't add them will you notice after the first couple of times they are on a table? A: Yes he will.
Q3 If you don't add them will other people notice?A: We will now he has mentioned it.
Q4 If you don't add them will the people who notice care?A: No not at all, but we are now obliged to mention it at every possible opportunity. :)
If the answer to questions three and/ or four are yes, get less observant and/ or less picky opponents. - I am afraid thats not one of the options he has available. ;D
Guidons will look pretty.
THERE WILL BE BLOOD
THERE WILL BE FLAGS.
Get on with it then! :!! ;D
Painting Wurttembergers atm
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52277881340_3abafb2890_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nDBNMJ)Cavalry forward (https://flic.kr/p/2nDBNMJ) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52277419533_0097ae6682_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nDzrvx)Wurttemberg (https://flic.kr/p/2nDzrvx) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52277667359_4e607ced25_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nDAHbp)Württemberg (https://flic.kr/p/2nDAHbp) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
As these are for Blucher I only need to represent them at approx 4000 men per unit, or 2500 for cavalry, so only 3 units.
Next will be Westphalia, Saxony or Bavaria; need to look at what figures I have left on hand. Then a decision about what to buy from Walt, over and above another pack of Cuirassier.
:-bd =D> :-bd
Really nice.
Good stuff
Love the purple there! Very nice :)
Purple?
I accidentally used a darker blue on stands 7 and 8, which I did later, though this was the colour I actually wanted! I think "purple is the phone camera trying to do different blues.
The lighter blues faded quite quickly, literally a day. I am now wondering if the paint pens are on their last legs.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 14 August 2022, 07:46:21 PMPurple?
I accidentally used a darker blue on stands 7 and 8, which I did later, though this was the colour I actually wanted! I think "purple is the phone camera trying to do different blues.
The lighter blues faded quite quickly, literally a day. I am now wondering if the paint pens are on their last legs.
It might be a camera artifact but yeah - those infantry look very purple!
I assumed it was some funky uniform choice to show how spiffy and steadfast they were (not) :)
Very impressive 8) .
Bavarians started.
Due to the unusual way (for the French army) the Bavarians were constituted, I think 6 Blucher bases, each with 2 stands Infantry, 1 cannon (attached artillery) and 1 Cavalry (to show 'Mixed') is needed, with 1 base of Artillery.
I threw the question open on TMP, because the Nafziger seems to indicate 3 infantry, 3 artillery, which felt wrong/silly.
So done helpfully quoted a different source.
Bavarian infantry finished. Need 6 cavalry stands, 1 per base, and 9 (YES 9!); 1 per base, then 3 for the artillery base.
The Bavarians had a LOT of artillery!
Looking at Saxony next. 3 Infantry, 1 Cavalry, 1 Artillery. Will need to buy men in bicorns, as just found out didn't have Shako until 1810. That's 2 packs infantry, 1 cavalry (enough for 2 bases in Blucher, and 1 canon. With the cuirassier I need to complete the Imperial Guard, that's a tenner, plus I want some stands.
Might ask my brother to order them for Christmas.
Bavarian Cavalry started tonight, then labelling bottom of bases of Württemberg and Bavaria to remind me who is who!
I need to start putting flags on French.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 25 August 2022, 12:04:00 AMI need to start putting flags on French.
Have you put the Guidons on the cavalry yet?
Cavalry will be flagged appropriately. I also need to do the Austrian cavalry.
My Polish Lancers in the Guard have pennants.
3 bases - 18 figures - of Bavarian cheval legeres painted and based tonight. Orcs, I've done the flag, will be mounted tomorrow.
Doing just 3 stands of Legere, and 3 of dragoons. Technically it should be 4 and 2, to keep ratio. However this way I can have 2 units of cavalry if I want. I am planning to attach them to the 6 infantry units,so the infantry will be represented as "mixed" in the rules, to represent the Bavarian Orbat as I have it. This will also mean the Bavarians aren't just French with no skirmish bonus but nice hats, they fight differently.
Bavarian dragoons done.
Advice please. It looks like the artillery men should also have raupenhelm. Walt doesn't list these on his site. Which would be better of the gunners I have, shako or bicorn?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 27 August 2022, 02:25:28 PMBavarian dragoons done.
Advice please. It looks like the artillery men should also have raupenhelm. Walt doesn't list these on his site. Which would be better of the gunners I have, shako or bicorn?
I cannot see any pictures on Walts site but Looking at the hat styles available:-
Use the Horse Artillery and nick off the front half of the plume. I think that will give you a reasonable approximation of a raupenhelm at 6mm
I've finished (sort of)* the Bavarians, but Flicker won't let me upload any pictures. Pics to follow once sorted.
*I've used British Horse Artillery crews, but I only have enough for 2 per gun. Need to order more crew.
Bavarians!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52320798273_64cb587d58_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHpLuR)Bavarians 3 (https://flic.kr/p/2nHpLuR) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52320797948_8168313663_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHpLpf)Bavarians 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2nHpLpf) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52320487876_5991c262f8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHobeb)Barvarians (1) (https://flic.kr/p/2nHobeb) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
The base with the limber is to show this is 'Horse guns'. I was wondering what to do, as I needed 9 stands (6 for integral with infantry plus 3 for the artillery unit), but the packs come in 4 guns a pack. Then realised the artillery with each Division is 3/4 foot, 1/4 Horse - this means that it is the Horse artillery that can mass into one complete unit, so I add a limber instead of the 3rd gun. (and have it as just another foot unit with the 'wurst'* in among the infantry.
I have a feeling these are the only Horse Artillery base I have for either side.
*Yes - that is right, and yes, it does mean 'sausage' - apparently that's what the Austrians called their horse artillery (I assume as a nickname)
Bravo the Bavarians. Look great en masse.
They look really good
Well Sunjester will be getting them in 3 weeks, as I'm not painting stuff that won't be used.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 30 August 2022, 04:46:29 PMWell Sunjester will be getting them in 3 weeks, as I'm not painting stuff that won't be used.
But if it's not painted it can't be used..... :d
Quote from: sunjester on 31 August 2022, 06:05:10 AMBut if it's not painted it can't be used..... :d
Wish our club members would follow that
If I'm just going to get sarky comments, Westphalia and Saxony are an option...
They look great 8) . What rules will you be using with them out of interest?
The Confederation of the Rhine are being painted for Blucher levels. These particular photos are on move trays for that. Technically I have two units too many in these photos for the scale I am doing, however the proportions make sense as it is 12 stands infantry, 6 cavalry, so good numbers to split down in multiple ways.
I also have Fields of glory Napoleonic, but I'm going to use just a French army list for that.
Down another level I can do Black Powder, again usually French, though Rhine with attached French is historically feasible.
Westphalia/Dutch (X corps) started. Infantry and artillery undercoated, so while I waited for them to dry I did the Wesphalian Garde du Corps. Little slivers of paper glued on for the plume.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52331592161_d31d0b5c7f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nJn69n)Westphalia GdC (https://flic.kr/p/2nJn69n) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Again I've decided all infantry will be attached to infantry as 'Mixed' so limited amounts of cavalry. However Nafziger lists silly amounts of artillery.
:-bd
X corps is 3 bases of infantry 'mixed' - 1 stand per base is cavalry, which gives some advantage to the base.
The Corps will be 1 Westphalian guard, 1 Westphalian line, and 1 Dutch, with 2 (yes 2!) Bases of artillery, 1 Westphalian, 1 Dutch.
The Line base I completed tonight.
The Westphalian/Dutch division was completed a few days ago, but Flickr is being a silly bugger - pics when I can upload them.
Rooting through the unpainted I have left, and found I have quite a bit of cavalry. Decision now is what units they will be.
Think I will ask my brother for the Saxons for Christmas, then that is it, the forces for War of 5th coalition effectively finished. I may buy/paint a bit more so the storage trays are full, but I'm not going too go over 2 9 litre RUBs for all the stuff. (At least while I don't own my own place! Have been wondering about British for Peninsula)
Thanks for organizing the game. The figures are great, the Blutcher rules will take a little getting used to.
Update.
Just ordered Russians.
Like, a LOT of Russians.
Plus following a tidy up last weekend, I am reminded I have 6mm metal Peninsula, and so will spend some time looking at whether they can be rebased for Blucher.
So, had a count of 6mm French. I think if I rebase right, and fixed to a Blucher base, 6cm square card, I can get 16 infantry bases, maybe a couple more once I work out what Allies I have, and how much I use in skirmishers.I also appear to have some Confederation troops, so can get one, probably bases out of this
With fixed basing I'd have to accept fixed OrBat; with the Wooden Men they are far more flexible, as I base them on 40x20 bases, then assemble them into units in the movement frame. However I don't like a 2mm mdf base on 6mm figures, so will probably go with card. Given these are actual metal figures, not the MDF semi-flats, I think I'll flock and go for a more realistic look.
I suppose I could try for a write on corner section for dry wipe pens for the Corps
Looks like I've got loads of Brits, so shouldn't be so much of a problem. It appears most of those have regimental standards, turnbacks, etc, so they may have been painted for a specific orbit before I bought them; if I can work out which one I will probably stick with that. Additionally I appear to have some Portuguese.
Aside. Going back through the thread I found I said I wasn't buying,more until I'd got my own place. Well, as I am now in a part buy/part rent Housing Association I do have my own place; I no longer have to worry about ridiculous rent rises, as it is pegged to inflation plus 1/2%. This means next April it will be £30 ish more. My previous private place went on the market for £200 a month more, so I guess I would have been stuffed.
Hence RUSSIANS!
Look forwards to seeing them
Quote from: Last Hussar on 28 September 2023, 11:30:40 PMAside. Going back through the thread I found I said I wasn't buying,more until I'd got my own place. Well, as I am now in a part buy/part rent Housing Association I do have my own place; I no longer have to worry about ridiculous rent rises, as it is pegged to inflation plus 1/2%. This means next April it will be £30 ish more. My previous private place went on the market for £200 a month more, so I guess I would have been stuffed.
Hence RUSSIANS!
Ack. That's a ridiculous jump. Good job you're out!
It could be as much as £1200 pcm in the current local market.
Russians have arrived!
Thanks to Sunjester for being the letterbox.
Lots of Russians.
And a question.
The new place is on the second floor, with windows that can't easily be leaned out of. This makes spray undercoat difficult.
Rereading this thread reminded me trying to undercoat by brush caused the mdf to go hairy.
Any ideas?
IKEA moving box,
Patch of grass downwind
Quote from: Last Hussar on 18 November 2023, 11:51:42 AMAnd a question.
The new place is on the second floor, with windows that can't easily be leaned out of. This makes spray undercoat difficult.
Rereading this thread reminded me trying to undercoat by brush caused the mdf to go hairy.
Any ideas?
Suggestions
Spray on the landing when neibours are out
Go round Sunjesters. He has a garden. Take newspaper to cover things and a beer for Sunjester. That should sort it.
Buy an airbrush and spray in acrylic
Use a paint pen
1) just... no. Can't get away with that.
2) if Sj is open to that.
3) don't think it will will work, because water based might be the problem.
4) Take too long. Really, trust me. Having used paint pens on them, I know what I am looking at.
1) just... no. Can't get away with that.
2) if Sj is open to that.
3) don't think it will will work, because water based might be the problem. Cf the "goes hairy".
4) Take too long. Really, trust me. Having used paint pens on them, I know what I am looking at.
I tend to brush on all my base coats these days - the faffing around with spaying just wasn't worth it in the end (especially in winter).
I've not seen problems with MDF when painting in - perhaps try a different under coat, and try light coats?
QuoteRereading this thread reminded me trying to undercoat by brush caused the mdf to go hairy.
I painted all my mdf buildings by brush and have not had any problems with them going "hairy".
I think the difference is the back is cut, so not smooth. I think, from memory, the smooth front was fine.
You will just have to wait for a dry day then do it outside
So, while I mull over the hairy MDF problem, I have started to paint the base plates.
Then Cavalry. I don't spray those, so am thinking I might do lots of those. Lots of green though.
My question is- airbrushes; are the suitable for indoor use?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 28 January 2024, 07:14:36 PMMy question is- airbrushes; are the suitable for indoor use?
Absolutely. I have used my airbrush in the kitchen and in my study with no problems.
I have a cheap A2 sketchpad on my painting table. I then place a vertical shield across the back and sides using cardboard about 9 inches high. At the moment I an using three really useful trays wrapped in newspaper stood on the long edge. If I am careful I do not even get paint on this. You could use a cardboard box with one side cut out.
I spray at around 10-15 PSI and you can spray the tracks on a 10mm vehicle. For general undercoating it is brilliant. I use Vallajo primer for airbrushes. You should have no problems if you use thin coats of primer as it is not as wet as a brush.
If only doing prming, you could get away with a cheaper airbrush .
Try and get a gravity feed two stage brush for control. If it has different size cups that you can change so much the better. Mine has a small fixed cup, but I do not find this too much of a problem with acrylic paints, as the dry quickly and you need to wipe the needle fairly regularly as it can get bunged up, and this is easier with an empty cup.
You will need a compressor though as the cans of arir are very expensive.
You are looking at about £120 from the site below, for a basic set up
https://www.everythingairbrush.com/product-category/airbrushing-kits-brand/value-kit-range/finespray-kits/
If you want to try an airbrush out on the wooden men come round and try with mine
Cheers. It's more do I have to be outside, due to being in a 2nd floor flat. I'll only use it for undercoat, so just a cheap one will be fine.
Going to try to remember to look tomorrow.
So, what green for the Russians? Compared to blue, would it be a mid, like French blue, or are we talking more Prussian Blue as a shade (but obviously green!)
If anybody has a Pantone number as a suggestion, that would be grand.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 04 February 2024, 04:36:08 PMSo, what green for the Russians? Compared to blue, would it be a mid, like French blue, or are we talking more Prussian Blue as a shade (but obviously green!)
If anybody has a Pantone number as a suggestion, that would be grand.
French uniform jackets are Imperial/National Blue which is a dark blue. I use Vallejo Dark Prussian Blue. I haven't painted a Russians myself but the green of Russian uniforms was also very dark.
I thought so. Going to need a dark green. A little worried; I'm thinking historically accurate may be too dark on 8mm figures.
You will need to go a shade or two lighter to make the green look right, based upon experience. On smaller figures, including 10mm, bright colours work especially when viewed at gaming distances, as otherwise they look very dark and at times almost black.
I base coated the 6mm Russians I did with 'Russian Green', black wash, highlighted with 'Army Green'.
What's Russian Green and army Green, as in which ranges?
I won't be washing, there's no real folds, just score marks to outline belts and divisions, eg the waist, and to define the legs and arms. Don't know if this can be seen on the photos. I use the thinnest fibre tip art pen, staedtler fineliner I think, in these grooves. The cross straps will just be a white paint pen, I won't outline these.
Anybody know roughly what the "Pantone code" would be?
Plan is to undercoat white, then put a cover (such as masking tape) at waist level to do the jackets. Then faces/hair, then shako/boots/pack. Finish with red for cuffs and collar/shoulders. I might give non red shoulders a go.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 05 February 2024, 12:03:41 AMWhat's Russian Green and army Green, as in which ranges?
Anybody know roughly what the "Pantone code" would be?
Those would be Vallejo shades
I've looked at a Pantone chart on-line and I would think you'd need something like Pantone 350, or darker. All I can really tell you is that the green of Russian jackets was a pure green, more so than British rifles, dark and definitely not an olive shade.
I would think that the techniques with your figures are quite different from full three dimensional figures, perhaps more like painting flats, though those require a lot of shading to pull it off, so I'm not sure.
The plan is to visit HobbyCraft to see if they have any green dark enough.
In the meantime I've painted 200 40x20 bases, and started labelling the Corps label bases.
To be honest, this is probably displacement activity to find reasons not to start painting...
Delayed update.
The bases were finished a few weeks ago. While I wait for the weather to improve so I can go to the nearby open space to spray I have been labelling the Corps bases - 1 corps in a session when I remember.
Must get down Hobbycraft to see if they have a dark enough green for the uniforms. Currently under consideration is spraying all green, then painting white trousers on top. With the French and Austrians it made sense to undercoat white and paint the French blue jackets on, given the white lapels.
Has anyone tried ANTONINE MINIATURES? Got an opinion on them?
Quote from: hammurabi70 on 06 March 2024, 07:45:35 PMHas anyone tried ANTONINE MINIATURES? Got an opinion on them?
I saw a demo game at SELWG put on by Two fat Lardies using his figure blocks. I was less than impressed.
They looked like blocks with raised braille type dots on them. Personally I think you might as well use counters or kriegspiel blocks. The board games by GMT are visually more impressive, they look better than these figure blocks.
If you want small figures to game very large actions I would use Irregular Miniatures 2mm figures - they at least look like figures when painted. Nik on this forum painted the ones on the Irregular miniatures site, and they are impressive.
There is a good site on how to paint them:-
https://sidneyroundwood.blogspot.com/2016/07/painting-tips-for-2mm-figures-and-armies.html
I am sure some one will come along saying they are the best thing since sliced bread, each to his own.
I have quite a few Antonine Miniatures though as with most of my collections the bulk are as yet unpainted,
I use a mix of Irregular Miniatures 2mm, 3D printed 2mm and Antonine Miniatures for Strength and Honour.
My Rorarii and Numidian cavalry are Antonine.
I quite like them. Each to their own though.
Images of my Strength and Honour stuff is here - https://imageshack.com/a/icUW7/1
An image below of the army of Pompous Magnus on the march. Numidians by Antonine at front and rear. First legion is Irregular Miniatures, second to fourth and the elephants are 3D printed. The Ballistarii are 6mm Baccus engines with Irregular figures as crew.
Pompous Magnus is, of course, well known for his intervention in the Werarvii civil war occasioned by the tribal chieftain and noble Friend of Rome, Ouitabix, being ousted by his dastardly younger brother Eautibix.
(https://imageshack.com/i/poCnzVhpj)
Wow nice!
QuoteI saw a demo game at SELWG put on by Two fat Lardies using his figure blocks. I was less than impressed.
They looked like blocks with raised braille type dots on them. Personally I think you might as well use counters or kriegspiel blocks. The board games by GMT are visually more impressive, they look better than these figure blocks.
If you want small figures to game very large actions I would use Irregular Miniatures 2mm figures - they at least look like figures when painted. Nik on this forum painted the ones on the Irregular miniatures site, and they are impressive.
I have toyed with the idea of Counters or Kriegsspiel blocks! I have heard others use similar descriptions.
QuoteI have quite a few Antonine Miniatures though as with most of my collections the bulk are as yet unpainted,
I use a mix of Irregular Miniatures 2mm, 3D printed 2mm and Antonine Miniatures for Strength and Honour.
My Rorarii and Numidian cavalry are Antonine.
I quite like them. Each to their own though.
Images of my Strength and Honour stuff is here - https://imageshack.com/a/icUW7/1
An image below of the army of Pompous Magnus on the march. Numidians by Antonine at front and rear. First legion is Irregular Miniatures, second to fourth and the elephants are 3D printed. The Ballistarii are 6mm Baccus engines with Irregular figures as crew.
It was for
Strength & Honour that I was considering their use. I have used
2mm Irregular for Napoleonics, which was my first experience of 2mm. I used them for C&C over Zoom, replacing large size counters I had made up. Antonine gives the advantage of putting all the troops on a single base but it would seem people have mixed views about using them and I admit to being sceptical about the troop layout; the flexibility of
Irregular seems advantageous.
Very helpful to have the input.
Strength & Honour is designed for 120mm x 60mm bases on a 75mm grid. Being a cheapskate I opted for 80mm x 40mm on a 50mm grid. It means I can use fewer of the Antonine castings per base. For example my Numidian horse are a single pack spread over two bases.
The reduced base size means that I will be using rather fewer of the, even to me, rather blobby formations for warbands. But a fairly straight front edge but a trail of the less enthusiastic behind doesn't seem out of keeping with how a warband might look so that's what mine will look like.
The design of the Antonine blocks are as suggested by the rule's author and are also used by Korhyl Minatures for their S&H bases. The advantage of Antonine over Korhyl for me were that the latter were complete 120mm x 80mm bases. The Antonine stuff gave me more scope.
S&H is very much about creating the effect of masses of men as seen from hundreds of feet up not of creating beautifully painted minis.
For me, Antonine do that.
As for the adventures of Pompous Magnus, they'll have to wait until I paint some Gauls as the dastardly Eautibix retired just before Christmas and decided to move to Australia to be near his brother and sister-in-law, taking his Gallic Tribe with him! :)
Here's a thought (he said, dragging the thread back to topic, and away from Ancients... :-\ )
Would a car spray paint work on MDF? Halfords are more likely to have the correct shade than Hobbycraft. Could I use acrylics over car spray?
I use car spray to undercoat lead figures and paint with acrylics on top so that bit should be OK.
I have used Halfords car primers under acrylics but not a normal colour which I assume will be gloss.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 08 March 2024, 11:40:37 AMHere's a thought (he said, dragging the thread back to topic, and away from Ancients... :-\ )
Would a car spray paint work on MDF? Halfords are more likely to have the correct shade than Hobbycraft. Could I use acrylics over car spray?
Are you new to posting on this forum??? :d
~X(
Was down the trading estate that has the Halfords on the other week, looked at Halfords, and wondered why I thought I should go in, as I need nothing for the car...
Anyway, have bought the darkest green I could find in HobbyCraft, and have painted about 8 strips (smallest 2 blobs I could get out of the tube, one for the fronts, one for test on backs).
Going to see how these dry.
Dried green on Russians. The camera has made it look less green than it actually is.
It's not a Russian Green (pantone 420 seems to be the closest), but it is darker than a mid green.
I think we can just assume in a period of non-fast dyes this is OK.
Note how the cut back is darker than the treated front of the MDF.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53623904607_7ee8fd7855_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pGywBr)First Russians - testing paint colour (https://flic.kr/p/2pGywBr) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Ignore previous...
Wrong paint. :'(
I'll post a pic of the correct ones in the next few minutes.
Correct green,
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53625246804_feed6080dd_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pGFpAL)Darker green (https://flic.kr/p/2pGFpAL) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
I've done one side of 72 strips; that is 36 stands worth, about 9 bases for Blucher. Going to need about 25 to 30 infantry bases, so about 120 bases/240 strips.
Further thoughts on numbers. If I paint half an army, about 200 points worth, first, I can ally them with the Austrians for a 1813/14 battle. Thus I will aim for that, as it is more achievable, then add on as I go.
For every 24 strips=12 stands, I need 6 artillery stands =2 artillery bases!
I might need to make a curry!
To explain; I use the Aldi curry sauces. This isn't just a jar of sauce. Over the lid is a cap with spices in.
Cook the chicken pieces, sprinkle the spices over, cook a bit longer, then add sauce.
These caps are ideal paint holders when using the larger artists tubes, and for the Russians this is what I am using for the main two colours, green and (intending to use) white.
Except I can't find a spare.
I do however have a jar of sauce in the cupboard...
In the meantime I will have to mass paint more infantry strips green. Might do face's as well, as obviously on the other end to trousers, and I can't do the shakos until I have done faces on the Little Wooden Men. (On 3d figures I usually do face's last, but have found on LWM it is easier to work from waist to top/bottom. Thus I won't do boots until I have done the legs)
Also curry sauces are good!
QuoteYou will need to go a shade or two lighter to make the green look right, based upon experience. On smaller figures, including 10mm, bright colours work especially when viewed at gaming distances, as otherwise they look very dark and at times almost black.
Very true. I have about 70 battalions of Adler 6mm Napoleonic Russians and I used GW Snot Green (as it was at the time) for the jackets. A bit too bright I know, but factor in the black shakos, backpacks and the dark wood muskets and the whole thing tones down.
I painted over a black undercoat so the actual amount of green is limited to the sleeves, a bit on either side of the crossbelts and a bit on the coat tails. Had I done them a darker shade then
en masse they would have looked so dark as to seem black as well.
I believe that Snot Green is now Warboss Green (whatever a Warboss might be).
QuoteI believe that Snot Green is now Warboss Green (whatever a Warboss might be).
My mistake. The charmingly named Snot Green has become Warpstone Glow, not Warboss Green.
It's trickier with these. I was wondering about the "go a bit lighter" that is normally said with 10mm (as I found out when painting Prussians Prussian blue for WSS - hard to tell between the black undercoat and the dark blue jackets), but with these MDF flats it seems to be OK.
However it is possible the green is still actually lighter than real life; as far as I can tell a Russian Green is a green Prussian Blue!
So, I have painted 120 strips, including 10 command, in dark green.
That's 60 bases worth, or 15 units for Blucher. Unfortunately Russian line is cheap, so only about 165 points.
Now have a milk lid for the white paint, so trousers up next. Then faces, boots/Shakespeare, and finally packs
Probably do Grenadiers next.
Trousers on 24 strips done. Done as a batch of 24 because that is 12 stands = a 3 infantry unit Corps. Wondering whether to finish off these, base them etc, and do the 6 stands I need to do the batteries for that Corps.
The Russians do have stupid amounts of artillery on the historic orbat for Borodino, I keep checking it, thinking "that can't be right."
Having faced the Russians across a Borodino table that sounds about the right amount of artillery :d
Quote from: Last Hussar on 06 April 2024, 07:10:42 PMTrousers on 24 strips done. Done as a batch of 24 because that is 12 stands = a 3 infantry unit Corps. Wondering whether to finish off these, base them etc, and do the 6 stands I need to do the batteries for that Corps.
The Russians do have stupid amounts of artillery on the historic orbat for Borodino, I keep checking it, thinking "that can't be right."
The Russians had over 620 guns at Borodino iirc.
You can see why I'm paranoid at the amount of artillery I am doing!
Although I'm not planning on doing Borodino, I am using it as the model for my Russian Order of Battle. In "Grand Scale " Blucher a unit of infantry represents 3000-5000 men, and a unit of artillery 24-36 guns. You can break an artillery base down into 3, and attach the guns onto 3 infantry units, losing the bombardment at long range, but improving the infantry unit.
The Russians don't have enough infantry units to make this worthwhile. For instance, 2nd Corps (4th and 17th infantry I think) is 2 bases of the 4th (8-9000 men), a base of guns for the 4th, a single base of infantry for the 17th, and a base of guns for the 17th - 48 plus guns according to the Orbats I have found! In contrast a Wagram Austrian Corps is something like 5 infantry, 1 artillery.
Just checked my calculations sheet. For the 1st Western Army, the larger of the 2 Russian armies at Borodino, it has 9 units of artillery, so about 270ish guns (this includes the artillery reserve).
Plan of Action. :o
I'm going to paint, base etc the 2nd, 4th, and 6th Infantry, and 2nd and 3rd Reserve Cavalry. This will give me 201 points, so enough for a small game, but I'll also be able to combine with 200 points of Austrians to get a 6th Coalition army. I fancy a battle where Sunjester Napoleon has 300 points.
This isn't as uneven as it sounds, because of the way command dice work in Blucher. Each of the Allied armies will get only 2, where as the French will get 3. Yes, that is still 4 dice, but they will only be able to use their own dice, so it is perfectly possible that the allied commander(s) can only move one wing of the army, and not the one they want. The French will be able to choose which areas of the field to concentrate on.
Additional idea, at the start of every allied turn, roll 1 green and 1 white die, whichever is the higher must go first. (Ties, then Allied commander chooses.)
I'll look forward to that!
So, since Friday;
48 strips of 8 figures (42 line, 6 command)
Jackets, trousers and faces done.
Next up: Shakos and boots.
Also found some more 40x20 bases I didn't know I had, so started painting them - even managed to use the same green. Looks like some are saw- rather than laser cut, I will use them for unit labels. Going to print off extra unit labels, so I can have extra stand in a corpss, rather than stick with strict OrBat.
Aside. Just realised I missed autocorrect changing "shakos" to "Shakespeare" a few posts back!
Shakos, or possibly other famous author, and boots done.
Crossbelts next, then backpacks, but not today.
Realised this evening that I need to do red cuffs, possibly collar and turnbacks too.
Arse.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 07 April 2024, 07:17:51 AMPlan of Action. :o
I'm going to paint, base etc the 2nd, 4th, and 6th Infantry, and 2nd and 3rd Reserve Cavalry. This will give me 201 points, so enough for a small game, but I'll also be able to combine with 200 points of Austrians to get a 6th Coalition army. I fancy a battle where Sunjester Napoleon has 300 points.
This isn't as uneven as it sounds,
You have forgotten to allow for Sunjesters lucky dice
Baked in - That's why he gets 300 points opposed to 2 x 200 with restrictions.
But, yeah. SLD.
Important painting development.
Bought a new chair.
It's a folding desk chair, as I was using a dining chair.
https://www.argos.co.uk/product/5548794?clickSR=slp:term:folding%20chair:3:83:1 (https://www.argos.co.uk/product/5548794?clickSR=slp:term:folding%20chair:3:83:1)
Painted cuffs and collars on 8 strips. Going to do the white crossbelts on those now, then the base strip green.
Hope to have 4 bases based in next hour or two (sans flags, which will follow in next few days).
That's impressive progress! 8)
Gentlemen,
And Nobby...
First unit of Russians
(https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/53642603749/in/dateposted-public)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53642603749_cbc70cd76e_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pJdndr)First Russians (https://flic.kr/p/2pJdndr) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Realy nice! 8)
Are you SURE that is the correct shade of green ?? :)
Joking aside, They look good
Thanks for the compliments, but I don't think they are that good. Given three things; size, table distance, my skill, what I am aiming for is "Are they OK for a wargame?"
Since the photo I have 20 strips/10 bases almost ready, just need to do the strip at the bottom, then glue them on the 20x40
:-bd =D> :-bd
Mine have lots of faults when seen close up but once on the table, they look fine. Yours more than pass muster IMHO!
Since photo I have painted the bayonets at the end of the muskets that haven't broken with silver. Hopefully in the next couple of days I will get the standards on them, the Colonel's on the right hand (left as we look at them) front, regimental on the left - I am working on the basis that this is the correct way round.
I'm also going to put a small label on the base that will protrude past the back of the command base with regiment name, Division and Corps on. These will be hidden by the 'Blucher' layout, but will be there if I ever use them for another set of rules without the trays. I may well not label those with the standard 'all white' Colonels colour, just those with a specific colour. I am using the rather excellent 'Obscure Battles' blogpost.
https://obscurebattles.blogspot.com/search?q=Borodino (https://obscurebattles.blogspot.com/search?q=Borodino)
Standards on two command stands (the 2 in the photo).
1 more base completed. The grass strips on the on the other 18 strips painted, but not yet based - need to find a place with good light for that. Might be put something on the dining/wargame table to protect it, as the painting table is not in a good place when the sun sets - by the time I finished the painting, it was too dark to base - turns out I need decent light, not so much to see, but more my eyes don't really like the dimness, and my reading light didn't really seem to work. Odd, because that's what I have used to paint by (though some years ago, so maybe it's an age thing).
Damn and Blast!
Started basing - 7 bases in I noticed that the bits between figures either wasn't painted, or the paint hadn't taken properly. Saturday I am going to try and get them done without removing from the base - the pva seems to take better mdf to mdf than wood to metal (obviously)
>:(
Now have 24 bases done, enough for 6 units in Blucher, which is the infantry for 2 Corps.
Pause to consider next move.
Options
1) Keep painting infantry until I get bored, then do artillery.
2) Paint one more corps, then paint the artillery for those 3 Corps.
3) Move straight onto the artillery for the 2 Corps already painted.
Any thoughts, gentlemen?
3 go for something playable
Seconded :)
"Something playable" is less than a third of an army (90 points). They would be part of an 1813/14 alliance with the Austrians. However it seems a good call for weekday evenings when I get in from work, as my lights are not good enough for painting it turns out, and I'm not really in the mood for mass painting in the evening.
Can I do 12 artillery stands in 5 days?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 14 April 2024, 08:11:44 AMCan I do 12 artillery stands in 5 days?
Only if you WORK FASTER :d
While I have light today have painted the cuffs on 12 strips of infantry when I got home from my parents. Need to paint on another 12 strips to get a complete Corps worth.
Sorted out 3 packs of artillery, each with 4 guns in. Tomorrow I will open the packs, clip off barrels and paint the guns green. Will also paint some cocktail sticks for barrels.
Does anyone happen to know the barrel colour?
I got one of these lights recently, and then got a second one for my wife's crafting - £19 on Amazon, has the ability to vary the light colour and intensity, and a fairly small footprint too.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08613S3TD/
I got something similar. Fewer modes, but has two arms.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BWXP85LM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BWXP85LM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51JoDTF8sDL._AC_SX679_.jpg)
I have a light, but I think it needs charging.
Today after work.
Painted trousers and finished the cuffs on the rest of VI Corps. If I've counted/arithmetical right I have enough for the whole Corps.
Painted the carriages and wheels for 16 guns green, plus the crews. Need to look at to see if I need to do the rims; am wondering if the laser cut edge will look alright.
Need to do 2 more guns. As there are 4 in a pack, I'll do all 4, plus a carriage. I use the carriage in place of the 3rd gun on a base to show horse artillery, so this way I'll have a Horse battery ready.
The "fun" bit will be glueing the wheels on; these don't have the peg and hole system of metal. I'm going to see how good I am with my pin vice to make something for the lug to fit into. Doesn't have to be square like the lug, just something for it to sit in while the glue hardens.
I will base all the carriages first, and leave for a day. Then I will add the barrels which will be cut down toothpicks, as per the French and Austrian guns. I cut the barrels off the figure so I can do this- I feel it looks better. The pick I support with a tiny bit of scrap, so it sits more horizontal.
Does anyone know the colour of Russian barrels, I can't find anything either in my books, or on line.
QuoteDoes anyone know the colour of Russian barrels, I can't find anything either in my books, or on line.
They are bronze - the bright shiny kind not the brownish "antique bronze" type.
Cheers. Wonder if my paint is OK for that.
Use gold, might be a tad bright but should be ok
8mm, won't really make a lot of difference - at this scale bright is ok. They are cocktail sticks cut down.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 16 April 2024, 08:13:01 AM8mm, won't really make a lot of difference - at this scale bright is ok. They are cocktail sticks cut down.
From experience, anything that fires black powder will get very dirty very quickly., so it will depend if you want a parade ground or battlefield look.
On the Little Wooden Men? Parade Ground, they don't do realistic!
16 carriages assembled and based. Need to see how the gold paint on cocktail stick came out. If that's OK, will paint more cocktail sticks, then cut to size and glue on tomorrow afternoon when I get home/Saturday, and hopefully .
Also need to paint the wheel rims on the bits the green has gone over. The burnt edge from the laser cut looks good.
Research shows the cocktail sticks need to be cut to approx 8mm each. Happy days...
I have 16 cannon based. Crews mostly done; cuffs, faces, shakos and boots to do.
Slight problem. I don't know what I used for faces.
[Thinking while typing]
Yes I do, I don't know where it is! >:(
Quote from: Last Hussar on 22 April 2024, 09:50:33 PMSlight problem. I don't know what I used for faces.
Paint?
Quote from: Duke Speedy of Leighton on 23 April 2024, 10:12:09 AMPaint?
See someone is in a helpful mood today. Slightly more helpful - Flesh coloured paint
[sigh] I don't know where the flesh coloured paint I used is.
Is that clearer for the terminally hard of thinking? :'(
To give you an idea of the match up between French and Russians at Borodino for 'Blucher'
Russians II Corps- 3 Infantry stands Elan 5, 2 Artillery stands.
Total 45 points
French I Corps - 5 Infantry elan 6, all with skirmish ability and attached cannon, 1 Cavalry stand, 1 artillery stand
Total 86 points
And that is possibly with not enough French artillery.
A standard game is 300 points. The 1st Western Army for the Russians is 336. Both 1st and 2nd is less than 600.
ONE CORPS of French is 86 points.
No person is exactly the same complexion as another, so if the Russians differ slightly it does not matter
Flesh paint was found, and 16 gun crews correctly faced before I went to pub Quiz.
Tomorrow the same gun crews will be correctly faced, as it were.
Hats, boots and grass left.
Hopefully it will be this weekend where I finish, and have 16 cannon - enough for 2, 4 and 6 corps.
That is a total of 131 points... Out of 300... >:(
Next - probably some officers, then decide what cavalry to do.
So, 16 cannons done.
VI Corps partially done. These are the 2 Corps I have ready.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53684644739_b318bdd498_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pMVQx6)First Russian cannons (https://flic.kr/p/2pMVQx6) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53684297576_156b752f67_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pMU4kw)2 and 4 Corps (https://flic.kr/p/2pMU4kw) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53684758430_b542ed2150_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pMWqkh)Another view (https://flic.kr/p/2pMWqkh) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
Good stuff, looks like you used gold on the cannon.
Very nice
12 strips of line finished today. I need to cut and base. Then I need to finish the command bases for them: I've painted jackets and trousers, but need to do packs, faces etc.
Bugger, just remembered NOT finished- need to do cross belts. Dawn and blast. 12 strips of 8.
We need to get a game in with these. Work Faster!!!!! :d
You paint some then.
Cross-belts and boots done on 96 men (12 strips of 8 ).
As is usual, end man of each strip cut off, the cuts painted green, and all based, 2 strips to a stand; the end men go behind to be officers etc.
Give it time for the PVA to go off, then silver on the bayonets.
That will be another 6 stands of line. Now need to crack on with the command strips, another 12 strips to finish :'( . Once they are based I'll have VI Corps finished, a total of 131 Blucher points.
Decision made.
Next up after VI Corps will be the cavalry. I will paint 3 Cavalry Corps first, then 1 and 2. The reason being that 3CC have 3 units, so a total of 54 horses, 1 and 2 two units=36 each, and it will be easier if I get the 'big' one out the way. For an actual game 1 and 2 might be one unit – need to check about Russian use of horse. 1 unit will be easier to command in 'Blucher'
Once the Horse are out the way, back to the PBI. This will be V Corps, which has the Grenadiers and Guard- same uniform, sillier plumes. 12 bases = 3 units – of Infantry, 1 of Artillery, 1 unit Cuirassiers.
All 6 Corps are STILL only 251 points out of 300, so I'll have to move onto IV Infantry (41 points)(12 Infantry, 3 artillery bases)
Maths update.
I am wondering about 'Borodino' as a long term aim.
This is what I my arithmetic gets at 16 Infantry, 4 skirmish, 6 Cavalry, or gun and 4 crew, to a base;
French
43 bases Infantry (688 figures)
18 bases Skirmish (72 figures)
34 bases Cavalry (204 figures)
57 bases Artillery (228 figures)
1st Western Army
47 bases Infantry
24 bases Cavalry
33 Bases Artillery
2nd Western Army
43 bases Infantry
21 bases Cavalry
22 bases Artillery
Total Russian
90 bases Infantry (1440 figures)
45 bases Cavalry (270 figures)
55 bases Artillery (220 figures)
:o
In case you are thinking "Hold on, the Russians didn't have twice the amount of infantry!" then you are right. It comes from how I lay out the units.
Rather than have dedicated based units as per most depictions of "Blucher", I have separate bases - each is 40x20mm, and has 16 Infantry/6 Cavalry/4 Skirmish/1 gun and crew. This means I can use them for other games.
A unit in Blucher would be 4 infantry bases. However the French and most allies have 'Skirmish' advantage, so I replace 1 base with a skirmish base. Most of the French units have attached artillery (representing 12 or so guns) as well as the dedicated artillery units, so another base is replaced with an artillery stand. This means most of the French units at Borodino are 2 Infantry, 1 Skirmish, 1 Artillery. The Russians are mostly 4 Infantry - they represent the same amount of men (approx. 4,000) but the French have more capabilities, so some stands are subbed.
The Russians have SO MUCH artillery that you can't actually attach it all out in Blucher. An artillery base can be attached to an infantry unit, to enhance their shooting, or you can collect 3 together to make a unit; Russian Corps are 3 infantry units, 2 artillery, so you can attach 1 unit out and still have a unit.
The French are just as bad; their corps are along the lines of 6 Infantry - ALL with attached artillery - and a unit of artillery; 'only' 9 guns per 6 infantry, rather than 12 per 6 infantry for the Russians.
I'm going to have to order more artillery if I am to host Borodino...
That Sir, is over-thought, over-engineered and over-resourced.
I approve.
Congratulations.
£2 for 96 infantry, £1.50 for 4 cannons - I can afford to over engineer! ;D
Quote from: Last Hussar on 30 April 2024, 01:07:12 PM£2 for 96 infantry, £1.50 for 4 cannons - I can afford to over engineer! ;D
Its not the paying for it , its the painting it.
Well, yes...
:'(
I refer the honourable gentleman to my earlier comment.....
Finished the "command" stands for VI corps. They are no different in the rules, it's just that they have colours on.
That's 2, 4 and 6 Corps done. Next, Cavalry.
Question; what colour trousers?
I was going to go with all green uniforms, but then found on Obscure Battles that's only the dragoons; hussars and uhlans are red or blue. Did they keep the green trousers?
Also, does anyone have a site with the horse blankets on?
This might give some info if you can be bothered to plough through it!
https://marksrussianmilitaryhistory.info/V11/V11.htm#c
Cheers, that is... detailed!
"Dmitry, we haven't changed the uniform in 4 months, change all the braiding..."
Using that as a start I found there was a Wikipedia page (I'd never heard of chakchirs)
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_hussars
Hoping uhlans, cuirassiers and dragoons have something similar.
The problem I have is the fact Russian Cavalry is 4 or 8 squadrons of each regiment, 400 or 800 men.
A single Cavalry base in Blucher is about 800. If I was painting just for Blucher I would be having stands of 6 horse, 3 in one uniform, 3 in another!
Done that for FOW, it's personal choice.
If you've seen my post about cavalry in the 'Rules' board, you'll know I have modified how I am going to do the Russian cavalry, and my 'sod about with the rules for points'.
A standard game of Blucher is 300 points.
The ENTIRE First Western Army at Borodino is 301...
Left to do;
Cavalry
3 Cavalry divisions each of 2 units; 18 bases, 108 figures (and every base has a different uniform).
3 guns, 12 figures.
Guard Division
Guards; 8 bases, 128 figures (2 units).
Guard artillery; 3 bases - 3 guns, 12 figures.
Grenadiers, 4 bases, 54 figures
Cuirassiers, 3 bases, 18 figures, 1 gun + 4 figures
Artillery Reserve
10 bases/guns, 40 figures
2 limbers (to denote 'Horse' on 2 units).
Then it's the 2nd Western Army...
Megalomaniac's anonymous called...
But have you got the Royal Italian guard done for the French?
Not yet. Just 1 unit needed, so two bases, skirmishers and a cannon. Will probably do 3, so I can use them for other rules.
Quote from: Duke Speedy of Leighton on 07 May 2024, 03:38:31 PMMegalomaniac's anonymous called...
Megalomaniac's anonymous? That seems a tautology!
Quote from: Last Hussar on 08 May 2024, 08:36:00 AMMegalomaniac's anonymous? That seems a tautology!
Megalomaniacs Unanimous, perhaps?
Quote from: Duke Speedy of Leighton on 07 May 2024, 03:38:31 PMMegalomaniac's anonymous called...
Not sure why - like I say 1st Western is
just enough to do a standard game.
2nd Western is only 240 points, and with Little Wooden Men is perfectly affordable - I probably have almost all of the French (need to do the Italians, as mentioned above).
I have a 'justifiable' uniform scheme for Reserve Cavalry divisions 1-3.
18 bases of men. 16 different uniforms...
Could be one base and 18 uniforms...
It feels like it!
Talking of Italians...
I am finding conflicting sources - I think it may be because they changed uniform in 1808 - In 1812 are they green with white turn backs, (like the French, but green, not blue) or White with green turn backs?
Update on Painting
Done the counting, I reckon this is the number of 40x20 bases I have to do for all of the Russians at Borodino (a base is 16 infantry, 6 cavalry, or one gun with crew).
Infantry 56
Grenadier 23
Guard 8
Cuirassier 6
Cavalry 24
Cossack 12
Artillery 52
TOTAL 181
Questions about the painting;
Repeat of above - what was the Italian uniform in 1812 - like I say, conflicting sources.
And also, Cossacks - how were they used, should I have them as formal bases in the army.
I base Cavalry 6 to a base (see previous pics from Flickr). Would the Cossacks be this regimented? Or should I do them more like I do skirmish bases? - With these instead of 2 lines of 7 infantry I have 4 skirmishers placed in a loose formation on the base.
Blucher does have cossack units (they are a bit rubbish), but were they formed like a normal cavalry unit, taking part like a regular unit?
AS to Italian uniforms in 1812 - Italy wasn't a nation at the time, each state would be using a different uniform. You would need to search on Naples, Papal State etc....
QuoteAnd also, Cossacks - how were they used, should I have them as formal bases in the army.
I base Cavalry 6 to a base (see previous pics from Flickr). Would the Cossacks be this regimented? Or should I do them more like I do skirmish bases? - With these instead of 2 lines of 7 infantry I have 4 skirmishers placed in a loose formation on the base.
Blucher does have cossack units (they are a bit rubbish), but were they formed like a normal cavalry unit, taking part like a regular unit?
There were 20 Cossack regiments at Borodino. Not sure how many per regiment but together with Uvarov's 1st Cavalry Division they amounted to around 8,000 men.
Although the feint by Uvarov and Platov achieved nothing obvious they pulled French troops out of position who would otherwise have been attacking the Russian main line. We will never know for sure but they may actually have saved the day for the Russians!
Cossacks were scouts, skirmishers and pickets. They weren't likely to be making full scale cavalry charges against anything but the most disordered and disorganised of enemies.
Cheers, Ithoriel - that's what I thought. They have a strength 4 in the rules, as a opposed to 6 which is standard - as this is the number of dice they throw in combat, that is quite a disadvantage.
I will do these last, if I have enough figures left over, and only 3 or 4 on a base. Additionally I will make the 3 or 4 units all independent, rather than part of a corps, which means they will be more difficult to move and co-ordinate in Blucher.
As to the Italians...
It appears Velites in White faced green, all other infantry Green faced white.
Looking at it my 4 stand base will have 1 Line, 1 Skirmish, 1 Gun, 1 Attached cavalry... (Base is Infantry, should have 4 infantry stands. Replace 1 infantry stand with Skirmishers to show 'Skirmish' advantage, 1 stand with gun to show attached artillery, 1 stand with cavalry to show 'Mixed')
Plan is Line Green, Skirmish White - I am working on the basis the Velites are the Skirmishers in my layout. Is this uniform schedule reasonable?
QuoteAS to Italian uniforms in 1812 - Italy wasn't a nation at the time, each state would be using a different uniform. You would need to search on Naples, Papal State etc....
Well, there was the Kingdom of Italy.
(https://www.helion.co.uk/images/books/i2/helion1001494.jpg)
QuoteAs to the Italians...
It appears Velites in White faced green, all other infantry Green faced white.
In 1806 the Kingdom of Italy moved to white coats. Light infantry was in green coats.
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/2e/8d/33/2e8d33c16f3d4e6fb4bdc61d0563e38d.jpg) (https://i.pinimg.com/564x/c8/79/e8/c879e88400e89796d5c6ae9d4a6d1d0e.jpg)https://blundersonthedanube.blogspot.com/2013/03/kingdom-of-italy-pt-1-line-and-light.html (https://blundersonthedanube.blogspot.com/2013/03/kingdom-of-italy-pt-1-line-and-light.html)
http://napoleonistyka.atspace.com/infantry_Napoleon_3.htm#_Italian_troops
Have I missed a point?
When you say "velites" what do you mean? There were city velites and guard velites who were differently dressed.
>:( bloody Italians!
I'm using this
https://obscurebattles.blogspot.com/2021/10/borodino-1812.html
As a basis. See IV corps.
Ah! The Italian Guard. Sorry. I thought you were talking line. In that case I withdraw my previous comments, with deepest apologies for any confusion.
(https://i.pinimg.com/564x/ad/26/f2/ad26f2751cc2ea6c7423554ab923ab61.jpg) (https://i.pinimg.com/564x/df/d7/0d/dfd70db9298daa877b453b2da0d76e01.jpg)
The Conscript Guard were slightly different
(https://i.pinimg.com/564x/a7/72/f3/a772f316cdfd77d817923e63e77b1376.jpg)
Artillery
(https://www.planetfigure.com/attachments/italie02-1-jpg.251646/)
Dear Italy.
Pick a uniform.
Stick to it.
Regards,
Wargamers
I'm going with the plan, line in green, skirmish in white, unless someone can say why wrong.
Bottom line:
- Guard Grenadier Bttns: Bearskin, Green coats red facings, white trousers (French Gd Gren in a green coat)
- Guard Velite Bttns: Bearskin, white coats faced green,white trousers
- Conscript guard: Shako, green coat faced red, white trousers
- Line Infantry Rgts: Shakos, white coats faced green and/or red, white trousers
- Light Infantry Rgts: Shakos, green coats faced yellow, red ... depends on sources, green trousers
New Plan! (And thanks to FSN for his help here)
LINE - White faced Green - Hopefully I have enough bearskin (Only need 2 strips, might do one in Green faced red)
Skirmish Green faced Red
Sounds like a plan. Good luck.
Have fun,,,
Got a certificate to prove I'm sane
Quote from: Lord Kermit of Birkenhead on 17 May 2024, 10:50:15 AMGot a certificate to prove I'm sane
I've got one as well, but please note that they have expiration dates in the fine print at the bottom.
Quote from: d_Guy on 17 May 2024, 02:17:24 PMI've got one as well, but please note that they have expiration dates in the fine print at the bottom.
I ignored it. :d
Yeah, and you still owe me £20 for it.
Used my special crayons on it and all.
Nobby is of his pills....getting deliusional
Today painted enough cavalry for 4 bases. Which sounds better than 24 figures...
It's not as if I have to paint the horses!
Not sure why it takes so long. I think part of it was 12 of them were hussars, 2 different uniforms so it was do one, then the other, rather than what I did with the dragoons, where all 12 had the same uniform. They are currently finished but unbased due to two discoveries.
1) I've been forgetting to use my rotring pen. I have based the infantry without running it in the grooves on the figures, such as between the legs, arms and body, etc.
This is less an issue on Russians, as opposed to the Austrians, who are white, white, with white... the thin black lines showed where the detail was - cut into the figures, but too shallow to be seen. However the hussars do need it, especially where the dolman and pelisse are the same colour.
2) I don't know where my rotring pen is... I'm wondering did I throw it because it gave up the ghost.
So, new pen to be bought tomorrow.
Also have discovered that auto correct thinks pelisse is badly spelled police.
A quick look at Funck showed the dragoons wore the raupenhelm; luckily I have some unpainted ones in the unpainted Austrians.
Tomorrow I will do a base of uhlans, which means sodding about with yard broom bristles to do the lances, as well as the bloody czapka tops - gluing 1.5mm squares on the hat. I was hoping they wore normal stuff, but oh no, the Poles do it, so the Russians have to do it... >:(
That will be 1st Cavalry Corps, out of 3; just 2 units in each corps, though I've a feeling I need to do attached cannon for each base.
Realised just before I went out this morning the Guard dragoons have red turnbacks. The was avery quick dab of paint on those.
Went into the Works (the stationery shop, not the ice cream one) and found they have Crawford and Black fine liners, 8 in various nib sizes for £4. Result.
Will outline and base, then see if I can get the Uhlans done. Bloody stupid hats, bloody lances...
(Met friends for breakfast. The answer to "what you doing today" was "putting socks on horses " confused them until they worked out I meant modelling!)
Quote from: Last Hussar on 19 May 2024, 10:45:32 AMWill outline and base, then see if I can get the Uhlans done. Bloody stupid hats, bloody lances...
I feel the same about hussars - it's the bloody stupid extra jacket - though I'll confess myself quite fond of a lancer.
Lancers done!
It's the czapka and lance with pennant that is the pain. Because these aren't cast on, as I have to convert other cavalry, they are a bit fiddly.
I clip off the pom pom of a suitable proxy. The tricky bit is cutting little squares of paper to glue on.
The problem with the lances is the pennant, cutting a strip of paper small enough, wrapping round the lances, then clipping the swallow tail.
However I do now have 1st Reserve Cavalry Corps.
Except for the cannon...
However I have found Doctor Who audio dramas on BBC sounds app.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53731582476_f70d5ddf83_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pS5puq)1st Russian Cavalry (https://flic.kr/p/2pS5puq) by Last Hussar (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/), on Flickr
The uniforms on the lancers are a bit lighter than shown in Funcken, and other sources I looked at. I didn't bother darkening the paint because the pictures look almost black, and on 8mm I wanted the blue to come across. Let's face it, 19th century dyed wool would lighten anyway- the British in the Peninsula had their coats fade to pink!
Well done. Good progress.
2nd Cavalry almost finished. Painted 36 figures this weekend at a leisurely pace. 24 based.
"What's stopping you base the last twelve?" I hear you ask.
They're flipping Uhlans. Gathering my strength to do czapkas and pennants and lances. >:(
Covers were all black.
But it's true!
1 base of uhlans hatted and lanced. Not based- Watched Spiderman instead.
Oh Bum.
Remembered on the walk to work that the Uhlan pennants for the Polish are red over blue, not red over white. Hoping I can paint on the now attached lances.
Update - Have printed strips of colour to act as pennants instead.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 28 May 2024, 10:02:27 AMUpdate - Have printed strips of colour to act as pennants instead.
Printing paid for by the poor British tax payer
QuotePrinting paid for by the poor British tax payer
Better spending of my tax money than usual!
Quote from: fred. on 28 May 2024, 06:23:05 PMBetter spending of my tax money than usual!
Thats not wrong
Fair enough - can save you £50k a year - which one do you want let out? The robber, the rapist or the murderer?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 29 May 2024, 08:38:13 AMFair enough - can save you £50k a year - which one do you want let out? The robber, the rapist or the murderer?
"Give us Barabbas!" (John 18:40)
Quote from: Last Hussar on 29 May 2024, 08:38:13 AMFair enough - can save you £50k a year - which one do you want let out? The robber, the rapist or the murderer?
Save 100K a year, give the rapist and the murderer a long drop with a short rope. Leave the robber where he is
So, 6 new lances with correct pennants done. Need to edge and glue them.
Then I'll do 6 more, and finish off the final base of 2nd Cavalry.
2nd Cavalry finished, I've moved on to 3rd, which hopefully will be a bit quicker - 4 bases of dragoons AND NO BLOODY UHLANS.
Finished off the third* whilst waiting for the boiler engineer (why I'm off painting).
Next up; 5th Infantry Division. This is Guards, Grenadiers and Cuirassier. 24 strips Infantry, @8 men a strip, and 6 strips of horse, at 3 to a strip, plus an artillery unit of 3 guns.
Then I will have a Blucher ready army. The 1st Western is 302 points, so fits the 300 point standard army.
*4 units dragoon, 2 Uhlans.
At the Bourne End show 9 days ago I was chatting to one of the exhibitors, who knows Walter's stuff.
Apparently he is very proud of the little wooden men, and somewhat disappointed that all people seem to be interested in is the storage trays. This guy said he tried to explain.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 04 June 2024, 02:08:36 PMAt the Bourne End show 9 days ago I was chatting to one of the exhibitors, who knows Walter's stuff.
Apparently he is very proud of the little wooden men, and somewhat disappointed that all people seem to be interested in is the storage trays. This guy said he tried to explain.
And rightly so, they are incredibly good and very clever, I just do not want to get into another scale - And someone I know has loads that I get to play with.
Really? Who?
They are great figures and if you can paint them as well as Walt, they really do look superb!
Unfortunately, Steve, I can't! :'(
Scattered through this thread are photos of my efforts.
The problem I am currently having is the hussars I am painting at the moment are grey dolman, grey pelisse, grey trousers, grey shabrack... Cuffs and shabrack trim is red though.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 05 June 2024, 07:59:41 AMThe problem I am currently having is the hussars I am painting at the moment are grey dolman, grey pelisse, grey trousers, grey shabrack... Cuffs and shabrack trim is red though.
What a grey day then ?
So I did the OTHER hussars, who are blue, blue, blue and blue...
Dark blue. :'(
Quote from: Last Hussar on 05 June 2024, 11:27:19 AMSo I did the OTHER hussars, who are blue, blue, blue and blue...
Dark blue. :'(
Even the orses ?
They are that brown shade of blue. But only the ones who are hussars. The horses ridden by the hussars stay their base brown.
192 Russian jackets painted green yesterday.
384 legs next.
Well, at least the leg count matches the jacket count.
So have just finished basing 191 figures. Somehow one broke off an went missing yesterday or Friday. Need to add the standards.
That's the Guards and Grenadiers done - 12 bases of 16. (OK, 11 bases of 16, and one of 15, maybe.*)
*normal line have 16 2 lines of 7, with 2 at the back. The command stands are a bit different because of sharing out 2 strips of 8 command figures among 6 bases. So I think I have one base with a front line of 2/2/2 I think. Because some bases are 2/3/2 figures, the musket strips are cut different, so some bases end up with a 3rd file closer. The 2/2/2 line is because I wasn't sure I could cut the strip correctly to give a 3/2/2 rank.
About to start the Cuirassiers in the guard. What colour are the shabraques? I'm getting both red and blue results in picture search, and no caption but Russian Cuirassier. Tried the words, but getting nothing.
Thanks.
As far as I can find the shabraques are the same as turnbacks. I have opted for one yellow, one red, one blue base, representing Astrakhan, Empress and Emperor cuirassiers - 1,330 of the 2,330 horses. Need to do the rest of the uniform, plus hooves, blazes etc.
I think I might have to paint a few guns, but that than will be all the 1st Western Army except the the Artillery reserve. The ENTIRE 1st Western. All of it. Which comes to 277 points out of the 300 I need... :'( :'( :'(
I think I am a couple or so guns short to paint up the reserve, so Walt is hopefully still cutting. Going to audit what I have to see what I need to do the 2nd Western as well (260 pts I think) - I have suggested to Sunjester a complete Borodino.
However looking at doing a 1813 battle, so half Austrian, half French - look for my command query on the Rules board. Also how to treat the artillery reserve.
Based the Cuirassiers this morning, started on the final 8 guns I have. Unfortunately I need 10 to do the complete First Western Army, so will be short a Horse artillery unit. :'(
Going to make up a few climbers so I can represent horse artillery units - I put 3 guns in a unit; this fits perfectly with Blucher, as you can attach artillery to units, or combine 3 Artillery into one base.
Need to see what I have left over, so I can work out what I need for the Second Western Army.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 16 June 2024, 01:51:19 PMGoing to make up a few climbers
Tensing Norgay
Sir Edmund Hilary
Lord John Hunt
Alan Hinks
Joe Simpson
Eric Jones
LIMBERS - I MEANT LIMBERS!
>:(
Advice please
I am making up a few limbers (as per above spelling mistake). Before I have glued the horses direct to the long pully stick thing - would there be a better method?
It's what I do - I'm sure there should be some harnesses etc, but at this scale it feels unnecessary
Had a look at previous limber in Austrian army.
4 horses, rear right glued on limber, left a bit away, front horses in line, but limber doesn't reach them.
5 limbers done, enough for 5 units of horse artillery, I think (hope) that will cover 2nd Western as well when I do them.
Next day or so paint up some generals for some command bases.
Quote from: fred. on 19 June 2024, 07:14:14 PMIt's what I do - I'm sure there should be some harnesses etc, but at this scale it feels unnecessary
What he said.
Think you've been doing it the hard way!
(https://wofungames.com/cdn/shop/products/10PD_Full_3.jpg?v=1702734947&width=823)
All of your Napoleonic needs - no muss, no fuss. :o
https://wofungames.com/products/napoleonic-10mm-full-pack?variant=44936721072394&fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0BMAABHaylDcxrL_FKJzvzqB7B6Rb5C0OSdvG11SHKONr-0m6afoRkgh3sDXmWxw_aem_uhdyAdy_4m7AUpLGKKCvOQ&utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=paid&campaign_id=120211591785070184&ad_id=120211591847620184 (https://wofungames.com/products/napoleonic-10mm-full-pack?variant=44936721072394&fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0BMAABHaylDcxrL_FKJzvzqB7B6Rb5C0OSdvG11SHKONr-0m6afoRkgh3sDXmWxw_aem_uhdyAdy_4m7AUpLGKKCvOQ&utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=paid&campaign_id=120211591785070184&ad_id=120211591847620184)
Less for more?
Maybe ... but no work involved at all.
Quote from: fsn on 24 June 2024, 06:39:56 PMMaybe ... but no work involved at all.
But Last Hussar likes to come on the forum and tell us how making 385 Czakpa's and pennants is making his eyes go more squiffy.
it also keeps him busy and stops him getting into trouble. Also what else would he do with the taxpayer provided printer and photocopier at work?
QuoteBut Last Hussar likes to come on the forum and tell us how making 385 Czakpa's and pennants is making his eyes go more squiffy.
That's why we're up to . . . (checks) . . . 41 pages for this thread.
No, I like to share the bleedin' misery.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 24 June 2024, 10:10:56 PMNo, I like to share the bleedin' misery.
THanks Muchly.
Always welcome :D
Anyway, I have 3 bases of generals painted up and based, so about as much as I can do towards the 1st Western. Later this week I will look at what I still have, so I can see what I need to order for the rest of Borodino for Blucher. Will also see if I have enough to do the Italians - as mentioned above 1 base of 16 infantry, 4 skirmishers, 6 horse, 1 cannon.
QuoteThat's why we're up to . . . (checks) . . . 41 pages for this thread.
I would point out that at least 2 of those pages are a discussion of naval gunnery range finding in the First World War, among other detritus.
Not complaining at all. in fact, I'm very impressed. You started this project ~5½ years ago, and are still going.
"Chapeau" to you sir.
It's been fits and starts basically due to housing arrangements. Looking at this thread I started the Russians on 1 April this year (yes, I have realised 1st April) and basically had (most of) a playable Russian army by Mid June - 11 weeks.
Need to look through what I have left to decide what's next, as well as decide on what I need to buy.
Plan for weekend was replace the waterproof edging round the bath, then small test game to try and learn O Group.
Then I woke up with stinking cold Saturday. Felt crap all day, and under the weather today.
So today I painted jackets on 24 strips of Russians, and found a further 48 already green. This is enough for 36 stands, 9 units for Blucher.
Yesterday painted the trousers on 24 strips- 192 men - 12 stands - 3 Blucher units. Aim here is to bring the Russians up to 300 points so I can game with them. 3 units is also a lot more targetable. Next will be the boots, that hopefully will quite quick to do - a black stripe front and back.
When these are done then paint up more artillery, though I have a feeling that I will need to order some more.
However the Monoxide detector also went off when I have the boiler on with the airing cupboard door open! That might mean a new boiler. (Don't worry Sunjester - boiler wasn't on Friday, and the detector is fine when the door is closed, the CO obviously not getting in then.) Luckily I have savings if I do need a new boiler, rather than just a tweak. Still £2500 I'd rather not spend.
So the problem with the boiler is it isn't actually connected to the flue through the wall. Trying to find someone who can connect the boiler to outside.
Meanwhile the boots on the 24 strips are now painted.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 24 September 2024, 04:59:46 PMSo the problem with the boiler is it isn't actually connected to the flue through the wall. Trying to find someone who can connect the boiler to outside.
Meanwhile the boots on the 24 strips are now painted.
Surely this is a case of a claim against the Builder if the flat is new enough.
Quote from: Orcs on 24 September 2024, 11:36:23 PMSurely this is a case of a claim against the Builder if the flat is new enough.
Or the Housing Association that still own part of the flat?
Complaint to HA already sent. They may try to invoke the part that says as part owner I am responsible for the boiler. My point to them is that was not connected when I moved in, and their subcontractor missed this on three visits!
Boiler is currently disconnected, so I have no heating or hot water. >:(
Quote from: Last Hussar on 25 September 2024, 07:23:22 AMComplaint to HA already sent. They may try to invoke the part that says as part owner I am responsible for the boiler. My point to them is that was not connected when I moved in, and their subcontractor missed this on three visits!
Boiler is currently disconnected, so I have no heating or hot water. >:(
So the boiler was not "Fit for Purpose"
Having no hot water is a real pain.
Two gas engineers have now told me it is likely that the flue through the wall needs to be replaced with one of the correct length. This means that they will need a ladder or cherry picker to get up to chip the outside setting away, it's not just a matter of removing it from the inside.
Because it is the fabric of the building, this now means I need to talk to the HA, as that is their bit. :'(
What I don't understand is why the gas engineer world hasn't got a way to replace pipes of various lengths easily. I know it's carbon monoxide, so you have to be extra careful, but this does seem a gap in their market!
Quick update (because it sounds funny!)
Talking to HA - I am being, and I quote, "warm transferred" to another team.
Going to paint faces this evening, might do hair as well (pretending to be on topic).
Quote from: Last Hussar on 25 September 2024, 11:45:52 AMWhat I don't understand is why the gas engineer world hasn't got a way to replace pipes of various lengths easily. I know it's carbon monoxide, so you have to be extra careful, but this does seem a gap in their market!
Yes you would have thought they could fit an inner sleeve and seal it up so it was safe.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 25 September 2024, 11:45:52 AMBecause it is the fabric of the building, this now means I need to talk to the HA, as that is their bit. :'(
But as its "their bit" that point the repair and associated costs - plus compensation for all those kettles you have boiled for hot water, and the Fan heater you have had to have running in both your main room and bedroom.....
I doubt you will get the compensation unless you go to small claims court, but the suggestion might make them a bit more willing to pick up the full cost of repair.
As for no hot water - you could shower at work as long as you have a "Soap on a rope" ;D ;D
I took Mother -in-law_ to have a scan at High Wycombe hospital today and two of your colleagues arrived with a prisoner/crook/criminal/scroat/client/resident (Please choose a synonym according to your level of wokeness) handcuffed to one of them. Made me think of the episode of Porridge " A day out" I have just watched on iplayer.
Might not been ours. Could have been Bullingdon.
I have already thought about the Gym showers. Staff use it when the gentlemen are resting in their accommodation during luncheon.
No Russians faces painted. Head us too messed up to concentrate.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 25 September 2024, 08:16:30 PMMight not been ours. Could have been Bullingdon.
No was yours the shoulder straps had A?Y
I HAVE A WORKING BOILER. :D
When they came to fix the flue on Tuesday, they found the burner on the boiler was worn, so kicking out too much CO (and remember this was pumping into my airing cupboard). The flue was relatively easy, the engineer could pull it into the flat and connect it properly.
Looking at it before it was fixed gave the answer why a pipe couldn't just be put in - the flue is in fact a pipe inside a pipe. The CO goes out one, and the other drawers in the oxygen. Because it wasn't all connected up properly it couldn't draw enough oxygen/air. This was what was causing it to cycle, it was shutting off automatically when it couldn't get the oxygen it needed- I'd hear it click off, then on again as minute later. The flue to the outside had never been screwed in, so was either always loose, or had migrated outwards with vibration.
When testing it after fixing the pipe was seated correctly he found that the burner was worn , and so it was kicking out too much CO anyway, thus it needed new burners.
I am legally responsible for the boiler, but the Housing Association said on this occasion they would repair it at their cost. I am guessing they they will be saying to the Subcontractor company "you messed up, you can bear the cost of this one".
The engineer came out this morning, took him about 35 minutes to repair and test. Then I got my first shower in my flat in 2 weeks - I am round Sunjester's tonight, and until the repair was scheduled, I was planning to ask him if I could use his shower.
Yes - AY is ours. Had a look at the system and worked out who it was.
So, no boiler stress - hopefully Russian faces will be painted this weekend.
Well that's a good result
As your going to Sunjesters for a game, I guess no women have contacted you for alternative entertainment.
Not tonight.
I can't find my flesh paint, only pink, which is too pink.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 05 October 2024, 11:32:42 AMI can't find my flesh paint, only pink, which is too pink.
Warhammer in town will be open
I'm going to drop into Dead Universe tomorrow when I'm up there.
QuoteI HAVE A WORKING BOILER. :D
...
:-bd
Flesh paint now bought, 24 strips of 8 Russians now have faces. Collars also painted.
Next shakos and cuffs.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 06 October 2024, 03:44:06 PMFlesh paint now bought, 24 strips of 8 Russians now have faces. Collars also painted.
Next shakos and cuffs.
HAIR - Do the hair before Shako's, Hussar you fool.
Mojo reintroduced, Russians now shakoed, backpacked,and armed, as well as facings done - 24 strips of 8.
Cross belts on 16 strips done. Pkan I Will do the othe 8 tomorrow, then grass, bayonet and base.
This should, if I've done my arithmetic right, bring me up to a Blucher army of 300 points, organised for 1813/14.
Next will be the bag of 4 guns. This will allow a 1812 army.
The difference is there was another division per corps in 1813, so in Blucher terms it goes from 3 infantry + 2 Artillery units per corps, to 4/2.
Great to see your forces reaching "critical mass" LH.
You speak in terms of Divisions, Corps and Armies.....truly a Napoleonic wargamer :)
I have colonels for those fiddly minor units, like battalions!
I play Blucher at "Grand Scale", where 1 base is 4,000 men.
However when I finally finish rebasing my Peninsula it will be formed on the Small Scale. There is no difference in the rules, but the bases represent 1,200 men.
Finished up and based, so I now have 3 more bases of Russians!
What I can't find are the flags I've printed. However, tomorrow will gave a count up to see if I have a 300 point army now available.
ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
Forgot to Rotring Pen the 'detail line' on the Russians just based - the bit scored to give a boundary between lines.
Luckily will not really show up, as jackets are dark green. Would have been nice to have remembered the line between the legs on the white trousers, though.
:'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
I have now flagged the Russians. And possibly just invented a new verb.
Next; packet of 4 cannon. See what my mojo is tomorrow!
Am wondering- surely I have more packets than just that one.
Quick question following this update.
Update;
1st Western Army is short 4 cannon bases, coincidental to the next lot of painting, which is 4 cannons. I will then have all of 1st Western, plus VII corps from the 2nd Western.
Now the question.
At Blucher level, that is base=2-3000 cavalry, a command unit of bases equals a corps, how would the Russians have organised the cavalry.
At the moment I have them nominally in 3 units of 2 bases, with 1 base per unit having attached artillery. Should this be 1 of 6, plus have the artillery as a separate unit of artillery?
(If it should be a single 6 base unit, I can leave the artillery attached if need be.)
Anyone?
The Battle of Borodino: Order of Battle of the Russian Army (https://www.napoleon-series.org/military-info/battles/Borodino/Mikaberidze/OrdersofBattle/c_MikaberidzeOOB1.html)
https://www.napoleon-series.org/military-info/battles/Borodino/Mikaberidze/OrdersofBattle/c_MikaberidzeOOB1.html (https://www.napoleon-series.org/military-info/battles/Borodino/Mikaberidze/OrdersofBattle/c_MikaberidzeOOB1.html)
You'll need to scroll a bit to locate the Cavalry, Cuirassier and Irregular formations.
I believe (but couldn't find any reference) regular squadron strength was 150 in the field.
This gives regimental strengths of 600 heavy or 1200 light horsemen
I'm happy to be corrected on that.
Cossack sotnias numbered 100 (for 500 man regiments).
Thanks.
It's not the strength, it's the usage. 3 units of 2 will play differently to 1 unit of 6.
QuoteThanks.
It's not the strength, it's the usage. 3 units of 2 will play differently to 1 unit of 6.
In this context it's worth mentioning that the Russian light Regiments (10 squadrons, 8 field squadrons and one reserve) were formally divided into two battalions.
This allowed them to operate as two formations, each the same size as the heavy cavalry regiments.
It also allowed light and heavy horse to use a common drill where appropriate.
This overcomes a real bugbear from many earlier Napoleonic rules which fielded cavalry as indivisible regiments.
The British get plenty of zippy little formations.
The poor old Russians and Austrians are stuck with massive hussar regiments (Other light horsemen are available).
Terribly unwieldy in old-skool rules with tight restrictions on wheeling, interpenetration, gaps and formation changes.
The result being the vanguard and scouting arm of the army can barely manoeuvre, and causes massive gaps in its own lines.
Fortunately, rules have progressed, and become a lot less fussy.
It virtually the opposite problem in Blucher!
Because these are high level rules - you are commanding 3-5 Corps, it is assumed that the colonels are doing their job - you don't have to worry about line/column/square etc. The only formation is a base can be 'prepared' - this represents some or all (or some!) of the multiple battalions on a base being ready to face cavalry.
For cavalry each base at 'Grand' scale represents 2-3,000 horses.
At the start of your turn, your opponent rolls 3d6, and keeps the total secret. As you move, you spend 1 Movement Order per base moved, but, and this is the crucial thing in my dilemma, is you move the whole corps before finding if the MO has been exceeded.
So say you have already used 5 MO. You order a corps of 6 bases, this takes your total after movement to 11. At this point your MO is 11. Your opponent then says 'Stop' because he rolled 9.
Thus large corps are an advantage, because if you ordered I corps of 2 bases, your MO is now 7. You order II corps of 2, taking MO to 9, so your opponent says stop - you don't get to activate III Corps. Thus a 1 corps of 6 has an advantage over 3 corps of 2.
Countering that is once you start another corps, you can't return to the previous corps. So you couldn't move 3 units of I corps, then move IV Corps, then return to I corps. However with small corps you can move them piece meal.
You could intend Left-centre-right, but be satisfied if you didn't get the right to move. With a large corps that were both wings you would move Left & Right, risking you couldn't move centre, or move centre, risking you couldn't move the wings.
In my head it is coming down to do Russian cavalry all go together, or do they get fragmented?
I suspect the Cossacks fragment, rest operate en mass as a Corp per army...
The reality was similar to the artillery.
Some parcelled out at deployment time to support the infantry.
The rest held in reserve for use as the battle developed.
It's taken me some forty years to appreciate this.
But it perfectly explains why my six boxes of Airfix figures never felt like Waterloo.
At a more relevant level, it explains why army frontages seldom match orders of battle.
Or why wargames produce bloodbaths with casualties far heavier than (almost) any actual battle.
If you look at the order of battle (I posted a link above).
The 2nd reserve cavalry Corps contains 2 regiments of Dragoons, and one each of Hussars and Lancers.
Using the regiment strengths (4 squadrons for dragoons, 8 for others) and 150 man squadrons, it yields 3,600 Horsemen.
1,200 each of Dragoons, Hussars and Lancers.
I don't know the Blucher rules, so can't advise on whether they allow aggregation of different brands of cavalry.
But that looks like 1 3,000 horseman base and a bit of spare change.
The Irregular forces section helpfully lists 5,600 men under Platov.
Then I think the Russian commander needs to make a decision before the strategic map moves at the start of the game takes place; how does he want to organise the cavalry? I'd say a corps needs to stay together, he can't say 1st is both of I and 1 of III, 2ND is II and rest of III. Effectively what is tactical, and what is reserve.
Once set, it can't be changed. This could have an effect on the pregame, a choice between parts available, vs all or nothing.
QuoteThen I think the Russian commander needs to make a decision before the strategic map moves at the start of the game takes place; how does he want to organise the cavalry? I'd say a corps needs to stay together, he can't say 1st is both of I and 1 of III, 2ND is II and rest of III. Effectively what is tactical, and what is reserve.
Once set, it can't be changed. This could have an effect on the pregame, a choice between parts available, vs all or nothing.
I don't know the rules, but that seems reasonable.
The uncooperative Russians didn't Corps their horsemen in neat parcels of 3,000.
You can probably overflow the surplus from one corps to another to balance the numbers.
Most Corps contain at least one division that mixes Dragoons and light cavalry.
Those light horse would be the first ones detached for scouting, line of communication and bolstering the infantry corps.
Checking the Obscure Battles site which im taking my OOB from (yes, he knows!) 1st, 2nd and 3rd Corps are 2,956, 2,556 and 3,356. A cavalry base in Blucher Grand Scale is nominally 2-3000.
What I went with is 3 corps each of 2 bases, but class them all as "understrength" in the rules.
I have the option of saying 4 bases at full strength, and treating it as a single cavalry corps.
(I'd forgotten about this decision until checking the list.)
It comes down to 4 full strength units that will act together, vs 6 weaker units that will be more flexible but possibly more difficult to activate.
Having finished 4 cannons, I believe I now have all of First Western Army for Borodino at Blucher Grand Scale.
Hazzah!
Well done Sir.
=D> =D> =D> =D> =D>
Now, about the 2nd Western Army?
;D ;D ;D
Are we going to get photos at any point?
Well, you see the photos already posted?
They look like that!
Did you want the whole army laid out?
Quote from: fsn on 10 November 2024, 03:34:09 PMNow, about the 2nd Western Army?
That's up next. Needs to be a figure audit, see what I have left.
Looking for recommendations for Cossacks in the range
Link to range below (page 2)
http://www.commission-figurines.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Commission-Catalogue-2021.pdf
I'm thinking using
Lt Cav. Shako
- Cloth Shebraque (British Light Dragoon)
at the bottom of the page.
They are 8mm tall infantry, about 1/200th, so, allied with the squarish profile, should be ok. Thoughts?
I have based cavalry 6 to a 40mm frontage. I am thinking showing the irregular nature go with 3 Cossacks. this fits in exactly with 1 pack of cavalry; a pack is 12 strips, for cavalry that is 3 to a strip. I need 4 units of 3 bases, so 12 bases. I could up to 4 on a base. If I did this I'd get a 2nd pack. that is 72 figures. Divided by 4 is 18 bases, so 6 units if I wanted them for a more 'irregular' army.
Thoughts?
So, defaulting to "not helping " then?
Having basically enough troops now for 1809 and 1812, I have 3 working armies (with some padding to be done on the Russians; Guards/Grenadiers etc) I am looking at late war - 6th Coalition effectively.
Looking at Leipzig as a 'Model OOB', though will not be doing this specifically (because I'd have to do Prussians). My question is
How do the French allocate their artillery at this point
I am looking at this site
French at Leipzig (http://napoleonistyka.atspace.com/French_Order_of_Battle_LEIPZIG_1.htm)
With this it shows the artillery at Divisional level. In Blucher this would add one artillery (equalling 8-12 guns) to one of the Infantry bases (approx 3 - 5,000 men)
When doing a 'Historical' OOB for Blucher, you take the Corps as a whole. II Corps is 15,000 men + 40 guns, plus 14 guns in the Corps reserve.
Does 4 stands having an attached gun, plus an artillery reserve of 3 guns (=24-36 pieces) sound about right for a French Corps? I think the actual historical is a bit weaker than on the table.
Guns as part of an infantry base act differently to a artillery stand - they add 1 die to shooting up to a range of 2 Base Widths, where as Artillery units get 6 shots of multiple dice out to 8BW. (to clarify, you buy individual guns - you can 1 to a Infantry unit, or combine 3 to get one base of artillery).
Update on 6th Coalition.
Looking at the battles it turns out most of them had Prussians in. The obvious result is I won't be doing 6th Coalition.
However, as a wargamer, we all know I will be buying Prussians...
:-bd That's how you get sucked in.
Someone was asking about the Saxon army and I was looking at my big book of the Saxon army and I've just spent an evening putting together an OOB for a Saxon division.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 26 November 2024, 12:03:27 AMUpdate on 6th Coalition.
Looking at the battles it turns out most of them had Prussians in. The obvious result is I won't be doing 6th Coalition.
However, as a wargamer, we all know I will be buying Prussians...
Have you ordered them yet?
If not, Why not?
Orcs - you know that 'How to make friends and influence people' course you did?
Ask for your money back.
FRaid I'm going to ask the same question ? When youse orderin ?
Need to work out what I need first.
Wondering if I can use some of the Russians/Austrians I have unpainted.
Me: I'm bullied into buying Prussians
Colleague: No you're not.
Me: Yes I am.
Colleague: There are more important things than wargames figures.
So, there is a Christmas card I don't have to buy this year...
Quote from: Last Hussar on 26 November 2024, 12:37:52 PMMe: I'm bullied into buying Prussians
Colleague: No your not.
Me: Yes I am.
Colleague: There are more important things than wargames figures.
So, there is a Christmas card I don't have to buy this year...
;D ;D ;D
So.... I have done a quick look at a Prussian 'Blucher' orbat for Leipzig.
It's looking do-able quite easy. As is the Swedish contingent.
Bugger... :'(
Dont forget the huge British contribution - Rkt Troop
Bugger
All of Prussia at Leipzig is 341 points, game is 300. I have a feeling with little effort I could do ALL of Leipzig at 1 stand = 4,000 infantry; Grand Scale in Blucher.
On the upside, might be easier to paint.
Russian unit = 4 bases each of 16
Prussian unit
Attached artillery, replace 1 base with cannon
'Mixed' - Attached cavalry, replace 1 base with 6 horses.
That sounds like a win
Get some dark blue paint ordered
You're not helping, you really aren't...
What do we know about the Swedes of the period (the country, not the vegetable)?
Which of the major combatants would be the best Army list to base on? What am I looking for in the way of uniforms - I would direct the gentlemen here to the previously published link to the Walt's army lists.
Extract below is from
https://www.napoleon-series.org/military-info/battles/1813/CentralGermany/leipzig/c_leipzigoob.html
Although sources disagree about the composition and strength of the Allied Army-Group, it is clear the Battle of Leipzig was the largest battle of the Napoleonic Wars. The website Armies, Battles, Commanders and Tactics during the Napoleonic Wars gives the Allies a general total of 273,000-396,000 men and 1,050-1,555 guns (120,000-196,000 men and 380-785 guns in the Army of Bohemia; 63,000-70,000 men and 310-360 guns in the Army of Silesia; 55,000-70,000 men and 225-275 guns in the Army of the North; 35,000-60,000 men and 135 guns in the Army of Poland; 35,000-60,000 men and 135-300 guns with detached formations). The Allied unit total� -- 454 battalions and 490 squadrons, excluding Swedish troops -- is broken down into 229 battalions and 234 squadrons (Russian) 115 battalions and 127 squadrons (Austrian) 110 battalions and 129 squadrons (Prussian). By nationality, the estimated 359,000 Allied troops at Leipzig were composed of 150,000 Russians, 115,000 Austrians, 75,000 Prussians and 19,000 Swedes.
At 750 troops per battalion 110 battalions is 82,500. So you need 82 stands of infantry totaling 164 strips or 13 packs.
Cavalry Squadrons were 100-140 men. or between 13,000 and 18,000 cavalry.
Four squadrons made up a regiment (plus one as depot) so a total of 32 regiments.
So at this grand scale make each stand 2 squadrons. A regiment will be 2 bases (12 figs or 4 strips)
you need 64 stands of 2 strips so 128 strips or 11 packs.
So 24 packs would give you the main contingent. Just add Artillery I guess about £55
Sorry, battalion? Oh, one of those minor components
Why would I muck about with minor manoeuvres? 4,000 men to a base for Blucher.
As mentioned above, with the proto-Prussian list I am working on, a typical Blucher unit for Prussia would be 2 stands infantry - 4 strips - 1 artillery piece with 4 crew, and 2 strips of 3 horse.
At this ratio I need about 30ish infantry Strips, 15ish guns, 30 cavalry strips for the infantry, plus 30 strips cavalry (15 stands) and 21 Artillery for 'just artillery'.
Actually Orcs is right this time (when was the last time anyone said that?). :o
He did not say a unit was 1000 men, he said a stand is 1000 men. The last time I looked you were using 4 stands to a unit of 4000 men, so 1000 per stand. That's all infantry, of course, if you are adding in attached cavalry and/or artillery, you need less stands of infantry.
Perhaps you should have taken your socks off for the maths, rather than just rely on your fingers? :d
Conflicted - Have I got to agree with Orcs? Even though he might actually be right?
:'( :'( :'(
Quote from: Orcs on 27 November 2024, 10:09:05 AMExtract below is from
https://www.napoleon-series.org/military-info/battles/1813/CentralGermany/leipzig/c_leipzigoob.html
Although sources disagree about the composition and strength of the Allied Army-Group, it is clear the Battle of Leipzig was the largest battle of the Napoleonic Wars. The website Armies, Battles, Commanders and Tactics during the Napoleonic Wars gives the Allies a general total of 273,000-396,000 men and 1,050-1,555 guns (120,000-196,000 men and 380-785 guns in the Army of Bohemia; 63,000-70,000 men and 310-360 guns in the Army of Silesia; 55,000-70,000 men and 225-275 guns in the Army of the North; 35,000-60,000 men and 135 guns in the Army of Poland; 35,000-60,000 men and 135-300 guns with detached formations). The Allied unit total� -- 454 battalions and 490 squadrons, excluding Swedish troops -- is broken down into 229 battalions and 234 squadrons (Russian) 115 battalions and 127 squadrons (Austrian) 110 battalions and 129 squadrons (Prussian). By nationality, the estimated 359,000 Allied troops at Leipzig were composed of 150,000 Russians, 115,000 Austrians, 75,000 Prussians and 19,000 Swedes.
Are the British included with the Swedes?
I'm using a different site, and the Rocket battery is listed at the bottom of the Swedes, last thing in the list
http://napoleonistyka.atspace.com/Allies_Order_of_Battle_LEIPZIG_1.htm#_Swedish_Corps
Quote from: Last Hussar on 27 November 2024, 03:04:51 PMConflicted - Have I got to agree with Orcs? Even though he might actually be right?
:'( :'( :'(
Wasn't it Cicero who said "I'd rather be wrong with Socrates than right with Pythagoras"?
I'd rather be wrong with Sunjester than right with Orcs! 🤣🤣
(Sorry Orcs)
Where were the 2/73rd at the time? I know they were in Germany somewhere.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 29 November 2024, 09:08:41 AMI'd rather be wrong with Sunjester than right with Orcs! 🤣🤣
(Sorry Orcs)
Unfortunately for you that is not an option here, as Sunjester agreed with me, so that make both of us right and you wrong. So you have to be wrong on your own
>:( :-\ :'(
By The way - Have you ordered the Prussians yet? :)
QuoteBy The way - Have you ordered the Prussians yet? :)
Very keen on "following orders", those lads.
NO!
Want to work out army list first, see what I need.
Any suggestions for Swedish on a uniform match? It will be the hats that will be the biggest difference.
In addition to Swedish hats,
the single Congreve rocket battery at Leipzig (No promises I will get the Prussians) - treat like a Artillery battery?
Its probably best to ignore it. Has 4-6 launch frames so insignificant in terms of Blucher. It's only there because Wellington didn want it.
QuoteIn addition to Swedish hats,
the single Congreve rocket battery at Leipzig (No promises I will get the Prussians) - treat like a Artillery battery?
Paint a figure red (or should it be blue) and make a speech bubble saying "I'm participating".
Quote from: Lord Kermit of Birkenhead on 02 December 2024, 03:25:41 PMIts probably best to ignore it. Has 4-6 launch frames so insignificant in terms of Blucher. It's only there because Wellington didn want it.
I am generally of this opinion! I may do it for the hell of it - it would be 1 base; 4 men + the launcher.
Would add a bit of colour
And a lot of bang!
Worked out the Russians at Leipzig. In Blucher terms X Infantry Corps has 2 bases of infantry and 3 of artillery - There were about 17 bn of infantry and 90 (NINETY) guns.
Look, just because I have worked out a complete OrBat for Leipzig, doesn't mean I am buying Prussians... :'(
Just keep telling yourself that...... :d :d :d
Just so you are prepared for when the order comes, here is a link to the Baccus painting guide for 1812-1815 Prussians.
Very simple uniforms, they should be easy with all the experience you have had.
https://www.baccus6mm.com/_paintingguides/NAP_Prussian-1812-15.pdf
Mr Very Helpful. ;D
Orcs is being helpful...
[puts on "coat of paranoia" and "hat of What's he up to"...]
Quote from: Last Hussar on 05 December 2024, 09:10:54 AMOrcs is being helpful...
[puts on "coat of paranoia" and "hat of What's he up to"...]
Just helping you so that when you have inevitably ordered Prussians you know how to paint them. Then I can help you play a huge Leipzig game.
I would remind you all of my comment from May 2020.
QuoteI did WSS Prussians (real Pendraken). I said I would never paint that much dark blue again, because I'd undercoated black, and couldn't see where I'd painted. Also the French are blue, so boring.
Putting together a 'Leipzig' list for the French.
JUST the artillery for JUST the infantry - no Old Guard, no Cavalry yet -comes to 100 points in Blucher.
A standard game is 300 points. Obviously the French will only get a few Corps, not all 10!
Interesting dilemma; I am using the 'Grand Scale'; I did wonder if I should use 'Normal' (2500 men in a base, as opposed to 4,000) as couple of corps are very small. However even at Grand I have a corps that is 8 units.
The problem I will have is telling which units count as Veteran, and which as Conscript. Any easy way to tell, as it does have an significant effect in the game.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 05 December 2024, 01:39:42 PMThe problem I will have is telling which units count as Veteran, and which as Conscript. Any easy way to tell, as it does have an significant effect in the game.
Paint the rear of the base perhappes ?
No, I don't mean the on table, I mean the actual unit historically. Sorry, reading it back I realise I didn't make it clear.
You said :-
Quote
I did WSS Prussians (real Pendraken). I said I would never paint that much dark blue again, because I'd undercoated black, and couldn't see where I'd painted. Also the French are blue, so boring.
then your very next post said
Quote from: Last Hussar on 05 December 2024, 01:39:42 PMPutting together a 'Leipzig' list for the French.
So wouldn't it be better if your going to paint a blue army to have a different one?- I know you have some but the Leipzig list will probably mean buying some more.
QuoteNo, I don't mean the on table, I mean the actual unit historically. Sorry, reading it back I realise I didn't make it clear.
I think you need to do this be relative strengths of the different sides and anything around units you can glean. I find other scenarios and army lists can be quite useful for this - to at least give a view on proportions.
If a unit did particularly well then you can make them veteran - but given in Blucher this is a whole Corps I would assume it's fairly rare, except for high quality experienced forces. Conscript it perhaps a bit easier as this tends to get noted more (and is a bit easier to tell, as it tends to mean freshly raised troops)
Orcs... shush >:(
Yeah, Fred, should have thought about checking other 1813 scenarios! Glad you pointed this out.
It's really down to two states; "veteran", which is basically 1812 survivors in my head, and "conscript" who are a bit flaky, while still being headstrong; the conscripts in the rules for 13/14 are weaker than a regular unit, but impetuous, which is both a plus and minus. "We're good in a charge!""don't want you to charge, no don't...""CHARGE!"
Any lists people can point me towards, or any knowledge?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 05 December 2024, 03:36:16 PMNo, I don't mean the on table, I mean the actual unit historically. Sorry, reading it back I realise I didn't make it clear.
In that case it's a lot of reading and not fixed, a unit may perfom badly in one battle and extremly well in the next. Fraid it's very subjective.
I knew someone was going to say that :'(
It's not so much 'on the day' performance - that is just bad dice rolling - it's really about who are the experienced units, who, while have an influx of raw recruits, are still basically old hands, and those Boney raised in a hurry at the start of '13.
Worst case scenario is some idea of proportion between 'Veteran' and 'Conscript', including for allied nations. For the Allied nations I am going with the 'Early' list as a guide- if they were sh... not very good in 1809, then they are not very good in 1813.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 06 December 2024, 09:24:56 AMI knew someone was going to say that :'(
that is just bad dice rolling
Which I have to say is a specialism of yours! :)
Add that to Sunjesters "Incredibly lucky dice" and you have a disaster in the game
I would point out, again, the LotR game where my rolling was better than yours. :P
Pity we were on the same side. Against Sunjester. Cheating bastard, rolling good dice...
Finished the French Guard and Cavalry lists for Leipzig
5 Cavalry corps = 131 points
The Imperial Guard = 293 points.
A standard game is 300 points!
An aside thought, while I try and determine proportion between Veteran and Conscript French.
Don't initially mark them up. Say I have 5 Veteran and 9 Conscript units. Put chits for them in a bag, 6 of Vet, 10 of Conscript.
When the French player needs to know if it is one or the other, he pulls a chit from the bag at random to see what the unit is. So if firing (for dice needed), takes firing damage (so you know what to reduce Elan to), facing cavalry (affects conscripts), or charging (bonus to French conscript).
I did something like this for my Napoleonic rules. Each unit had its designation but when first in combat a d6 was rolled. 1,2 down one level, 3,4 stays the same, 5.6 up one level. And then it stayed there for the remainder of the game.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 06 December 2024, 04:19:55 PMAn aside thought, while I try and determine proportion between Veteran and Conscript French.
Don't initially mark them up. Say I have 5 Veteran and 9 Conscript units. Put chits for them in a bag, 6 of Vet, 10 of Conscript.
When the French player needs to know if it is one or the other, he pulls a chit from the bag at random to see what the unit is. So if firing (for dice needed), takes firing damage (so you know what to reduce Elan to), facing cavalry (affects conscripts), or charging (bonus to French conscript).
The principles of war sets of rules used a system like that.
So having posted at The Other Place, new idea.
I'm thinking probably the entire "non-guard" should be conscript. Maybe give young guard as the "veteran line", with just the Middle Guard classified as 'Guard', and Old Guard as (unsurprisingly) "Old Guard".
QuoteYeah, Fred, should have thought about checking other 1813 scenarios! Glad you pointed this out.
It's really down to two states; "veteran", which is basically 1812 survivors in my head, and "conscript" who are a bit flaky, while still being headstrong; the conscripts in the rules for 13/14 are weaker than a regular unit, but impetuous, which is both a plus and minus. "We're good in a charge!""don't want you to charge, no don't...""CHARGE!"
Any lists people can point me towards, or any knowledge?
I'm a little late to this and can't point you to reliable references.
Here's your problem:
1812 in Russia is a complete s***show, units that marched as far as Borodino come home in tatters (or not at all).
1813
Boney organises his young guard, which sweeps most of his veterans into this veteran corps.
Where does he get them? He guts those tattered units.
At the same time he's conscripting more younger men to bring those units back to strength.
The problem:
It's relatively easy to grind through regimental histories, and find locations (and occasionally strengths).
You won't find much in the style of
"Every veteran of 5 years service was transferred to the young guard, and all remaining privates were promoted to corporal".
The simple fix:
In your army: the young guard are veterans, the rest are conscripts (unless you can find a credible exception).
On the table: the conscripts are the ones wearing greatcoats.
This is really what I have decided.
So;
Old Guard class as Old Guard (!) (1 Unit)
Middle Guard class as Guard (1 unit)
Young Guard class as Veteran (2 units)
Everyone else class as Conscript.
Thanks for backing my assumptions up.
So Up to date points with above suggestion
ALL the line II-XI (no X) Corps - 402 points
ALL the Cavalry - 131 Points
The Imperial Guard - 251 Points
Old Guard is 2x'Old Guard', 1x'Guard' - These are the Old and Middle Guards, 7x'Veteran' - this is the Young Guard in two corps, with the 2nd Corps having 4 units, but all understrength. Although the rules say to consider making this 3 at normal strength, 4 and U/S fits the historical lay out.
Am considering making I Young Corps 4 units, with the 2 in 3rd Division 'Understrength', again, fits the lay out.
So thoughts gentlemen;
Rules state units are 3-5,000 men.
If less than 3,000 for HISTORICAL scenarios (only) use the 'Understrength' rule.
If over 5,000 use 'Overstrength'.
All divisions are of 2 Brigades, each of 6 bns.
I Young Guard Corps
1st Div - 6040 Men
3rd Div - 4730 Men
II Young Guard Corps
2nd Div - 5470 Men
4th Div - 5520 Men.
Options
I Corps
3 Units
Or
4 Units, 2 U/S
II Corps
2 Units, both O/S
Or
4 units, all U/S
Or
3 Units
OR
1 Corps called 'Young guard' which ignores the Div/Bde structure and works as 6 units
Further Thoughts.
I'm not giving the Swedish contingent any extra characteristics, such as Skirmish bonus etc. They have an Elan of 6, the Avant Guard is élan of 7 and 'Mixed', (that is, infantry with a cavalry bonus, rather than 1 base Infantry, 1 base cavalry) because of the low numbers of cavalry with the AG. There is a separate Cavalry Brigade, and Artillery unit. Two of the three infantry bases have attached artillery.
The 6 Elan is to represent the limited involvement Sweden had, where as Napoleon reformed the Grande Armee with a sweep of what was left in France, the good units being put in the Garde.
(An Artillery stand represents 8-12 guns. You can attach a gun stand to infantry to represent integral artillery which gives a 1 die bonus to musket shooting, range of 2, or put 3 stands on a base to show a large battery, which trades limited ammo for long range of 8.)
I've decided to blame you lot.
I reckon I can do a Leipzig Prussian army in LWM for under £30.
Under £60 (possibly £50) for a cover all possibilities Blucher army.
:(
Quote from: Last Hussar on 13 December 2024, 12:08:52 PMI've decided to blame you lot.
I reckon I can do a Leipzig Prussian army in LWM for under £30.
Under £60 (possibly £50) for a cover all possibilities Blucher army.
:(
You see sense at last. :)
Quote from: Orcs on 13 December 2024, 12:13:59 PMYou see sense at last. :)
Not a concept I usually associate with Orcs.
That's why there is a Mrs Orcs.
I keep looking at this range.
Then I flip between:
* I'm gonna have the biggest ever army for almost zero cost.
* I'm gonna totally hate painting these.
The second wolf is winning.
They are easy and quick to paint.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/albums/72157675414083037/with/48224124401
Great photos 8)
Steve, here's the thing;
Would I rather do these in 10mm. Yes, yes I would.
Can I AFFORD to do them in 10mm; well, there is the question.
I could put together an army, but it would have to be built to a pretty restrictive list. With the the LWM I have got a lot of variants.
Plus, and thus is a big plus for me, it is really easy to paint masses. You are basically painting stripes.
They look fabulous, really good en-masse and painted.
Combined with your movement trays it's a fantastic looking collection.
My own reticence probably reflects having two existing 6mm armies of around 2,000 figures each.
I doubt whether the MDF figures would blend in with those.
The remaining opportunity for me is if I decide to collect ACW armies.
These do look good - tbh much better than I expected!
They really work well for the large Blucher bases.
A couple of suggestions, paint the movement trays, especially the ones for the commanders. And have you thought about using the little dice frames for keeping the shock dice in position?
Steve, no they are too tall for 6mm. They are more like 8mm.
Fred, the movement trays are unpainted on purpose. If I paint the trays, I'd really need to be flocking the bases. The problem is they are very noticeable as flat, but a 2mm, thick flat. You can't hide this.the cavalry bases especially; head on the look like a vegetable slicer!
If I leave the bases unflocked, then the noticeablity of the trays is not really a thing; the flat green bases are already suspension of disbelief breaking.
What I decided was a "brandy and cigars" look - like beer and pretzels, but dammit we're British!
The frames are actually glued on upside-down; the laser burn gives a richness the plain mdf doesn't have.
These clearly wont have the same aesthetics as full rounded casts.
I've tended to look at them a bit like the (very) old flats.
My impression is that flats require a lot more artistry than blobbing or washing a 3d figure.
Perhaps a better comparison is with the toy soldier type collections.
There was a brief burst of these in my corner of the Internet.
Big figures, typically 42mmm with a gloss finish, rosy cheeks (optional), almost all marching, on bright gloss green bases.
Proper aficionados completed the effect with wooden block styled scenery.
I observe that ready printed perspex? flats are now a thing.
Ready to roll.
I looked that 'Yo Flats!', or whatever they are called. Trouble is the price. And they are FLAT. The LWM are 2mm thick, so there is some depth.
Sunjester and I agree on the 'Three foot' or 'Arms length' rule;
That is, when a unit is held at arms length - the distance you are looking at on the table - does it look alright? Some people here paint absolutely beautiful figures, but 1) I can't do that, and 2) how much difference is there at arms length? and 3) I just don't have the concentration when painting - I hate painting figures.
And, has been mentioned on this thread before, 'Quantity has a quality all its own'; My Russian units for Blucher are 4 stands in 2x2, each stand is 2 lines of 7, with 2 men behind (approximately behind '2' and '6' - the strips are 8 figures long, but a 40mm base only takes 7). So my Russians are 64 figures a unit! Less with the French - one base is replaced a 4 man skirmish base to show 'Skirmish' ability.
Taken to the extremes with Austrian 'Avant Garde' units - of the 4 bases on a unit; 1 Infantry, 1 Skirmish, 1 Horse (6 figures, for 'Mixed') and 1 Gun.
I played #1Son a week ago at Black Powder, where the figures were used in a more traditional wargame way. The Russian units were 'Large' so had 4 bases in a line - 64 figures, with a frontage of 28, on 160mm (just over 6 inches for the Old People here). THAT looks like a line, more than 12 large figures.
This is what I had 6 years ago for the French - I've added to this since then
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lasthussar/48224125276/in/album-72157675414083037
If I'm putting together a Prussian Army might as well make it suitable for early war (pre-1813).
What would be a good battle to base on? - I've got Leipzig for 1813.
Well, after Jena/Auerstedt 1806, there really isn't much of a Prussian army until 1813!
Also, the uniform is very different pre and post 1807
Quote from: Duke Speedy of Leighton on 17 December 2024, 07:26:13 PMAlso, the uniform is very different pre and post 1807
That's alright LH, Looks like Walt does figures for both.
Definitely no.
How different? These are 8mm semi flats
QuoteDefinitely no.
Are you a wargamer? :D :D
QuoteHow different? These are 8mm semi flats
From looking at the Bachuss painting guide, Its different head wear, Coloured chest panels and diffeent coloured Trousers, so quite a bit.
So pick the battle you fancy, and do that army. They will just have to be proxies if you do the battle they are not correct for. Sunjester and I will not point this out when we game with you - promise
( fingers crossed behind back) :)
Well if I need two different uniforms I just won't bother with either. That's money saved.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 18 December 2024, 10:23:50 AMWell if I need two different uniforms I just won't bother with either. That's money saved.
I refer my honourable friend to Orcs' earlier question!
You can refer me where you like - I'm not doing two armies.
I am part way through a Jena-Auerstatd list for the Prussians, however.
Early Prussians are ruddy insane - they are really odd in Grande Scale Blucher.
A standard game is 300 points.
Brunswick and Hohenlohe's corps are both over 150 points. Most Blucher corps have 5-8 units in them; with Hohenlohe there are 13! and Brunswick 11. Tempting to make some paper units up, just to see how they play.
Edit
Brunswick - 154 pts
Reserve - 75
Hohenlohe- 156
Ruchell - 75
Wurttemb'g- 72
39 bases, but only 6 Cavalry, as most cavalry is in the infantry, using the 'Mixed' rule. Only one dedicated artillery base, as most is attached.
So If its 33 bases of infantry @ 2 strips a base that's 66 strips . So 6 packs
Only 1 pack each of Cavalry and artillery, so 8 packs in all or if its 39 stands plus cavalry its 9 packs or £17.50.
That's less than 3 beers including the postage, seems like a no-brainer.
You painting them?
If you need uniform details etc for 1806, let me know
Help, help, I'm being bullied!
Quote from: Last Hussar on 19 December 2024, 07:54:18 AMHelp, help, I'm being bullied!
All below said in soothing persuasive voice.
Just buy the figures and it will stop. :)
After all as a wargamer you know you have to have a complete collection, and your collection has a HUGE Napoleonic Prussian army shaped hole.
You will feel better when you have ordered them.
BUT IT IS TWO DIFFERENT ARMIES.
They just HAPPEN to have the same name...
Quote from: Last Hussar on 19 December 2024, 09:45:07 AMBUT IT IS TWO DIFFERENT ARMIES.
They just HAPPEN to have the same name...
So by your own admission you have Two huge Prussian army size holes in your collection. More reason to buy them
I can't do Prussia 1806 - about a third of the total is Brunswickers, and I don't know what the uniform was; it's hinted on the web that it isn't the 1814 black.
It wasnt - adopted after the 1806 campaign - dont know when - but because their duke died inbattle, so in mourning. Prior to 1806 they used Prussian uniforms. Those 1085 Prussians you are going to buy will do fine.
If I may be of help? According to von Pivka in theArmies of the Napoleonic Wars:
"The uniform of Brunswick's troops until 1806 were entirely Prussian; in that year there were two infantry regiments in bicorns, dark blue coats, white belts, small clothes, black gaiters. The 1st Regiment 'Warmstedt' had red facings, white lace and yellow buttons. The 2nd 'Griesheim' had red facings, lapels edged in white lace having a blue worm and white buttons. Grenadiers wore fur caps with plate in the button colour and backing in the facing colour edged in the button colour."
That should be enough to be getting on with. :)
>:(
I refer the honourable gentlemen to the comments made by Sam Mustafa in the section of the rule book for Prussian army lists.
QuoteThe options presented here are an attempt to approximate an army structure that was unfortunately not entirely rational.
[My emphasis]
The RULE WRITER shrugs his shoulders at the Prussians and walks away...
QuoteI refer the honourable gentlemen to the comments made by Sam Mustafa in the section of the rule book for Prussian army lists.
QuoteThe options presented here are an attempt to approximate an army structure that was unfortunately not entirely rational.
[My emphasis]
The RULE WRITER shrugs his shoulders at the Prussians and walks away...
You are suggesting a lack of rationality is a limitation :-\
On this forum ;D
Quick update.
Well question really (and no, I haven't bought Prussians)
Russian Grenadier hats; are they mitres or are they shakos with the bog brush?
I am specifically looking at VIII Corps
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7DgY4wqIG8C1NauBLWcvB7MkRoCG2WU1c3xppW-WM0mj6XLqJzBuqtrNPk7CBmS6zz-JF39m1ODdbnZj3KKiyi7FmUwaA61AuVjl5xTHHyLlaeCV8DzGnpqdB9rAR6mZH1JZhFq7XQmJG/s16000/Borodino+Russian+OOB+3.jpg
(might have to scroll down a bit)
What hats? I have a suspicion the grenadier regiments might have a different one to the combined battalions, as the latter will be the flank companies stuck together.
Cheers
Pavloski have the noddy hats, rest had standard Shakos possibly with extra cords.
"Noddy hat".
Is that the official historical reference?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 28 April 2025, 02:14:36 PM"Noddy hat".
Is that the official historical reference?
Dunno, ask Big Ears!
Na a wargames one - you know what I meant...
I've decided to do the combined flank companies with the tall "loo brush'.
I'm going to have to make the plume myself. Given the figures are about 1:200 (approx 8mm tall) what do you recommend?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 28 April 2025, 11:16:15 PMI've decided to do the combined flank companies with the tall "loo brush'.
I'm going to have to make the plume myself. Given the figures are about 1:200 (approx 8mm tall) what do you recommend?
Good eyesight and an optivisor.
Prussians would be easier
Assuming at that scale you only want somthing round and that sticks up, and you dont want the fury effect of the loo brush, Brush bristles would probably be your best bet
Quote from: Orcs on 29 April 2025, 04:46:11 AMPrussians would be easier
SHUT UP ABOUT THE PRUSSIANS.
Are they wearing cravats?
They could...
QuoteSHUT UP ABOUT THE PRUSSIANS.
True quote - Napoleon Buonaparte, evening 18th June 1815.
QuoteTrue quote - Napoleon Buonaparte, evening 18th June 1815.
;D ;D ;D
QuoteWhen sorrows come, they come not single spies, but in battalions
So...
I don't know where my unpainted Russian figures are, and I need to make some 'Square' markers up.
And to shut Orcs up, Wally seems to have shut the business; the website is available to buy. Some of the terrain is on the Heroics site, but it looks like I won't be able to but the Prussians.
But more - where the hell are the Russians?
Siberia ?
Quote from: Last Hussar on 06 May 2025, 12:16:36 PMSo...
And to shut Orcs up, Wally seems to have shut the business; the website is available to buy. Some of the terrain is on the Heroics site, but it looks like I won't be able to but the Prussians.
That's a real shame, I have used his really useful trays for most of my figures. Bought £50 worth last year and only have about 3 left.
I blame Last Hussar for not buying those Prussian armies :D :D :D
(https://media4.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTc5MGI3NjExY3R5c3M4bzFoaDlpZWNjczljaDgwMnlxMHJrcWw2N2N0eW13YW9ocSZlcD12MV9pbnRlcm5hbF9naWZfYnlfaWQmY3Q9Zw/h6FObJ8zJjBte/giphy.gif)
What the hell did I do with them?
If I can't find them, Sunjester will have to use the Russians.
No strips = no "prepared" markers
No prepared markers = Russians at a disadvantage v cavalry.
Ergo Sj will have to be the Russians.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 06 May 2025, 10:47:30 PMWhat the hell did I do with them?
If I can't find them, Sunjester will have to use the Russians.
No strips = no "prepared" markers
No prepared markers = Russians at a disadvantage v cavalry.
Ergo Sj will have to be the Russians.
You really think that will offset his "Magic Dice".
His infantry will beat up and charging cavalry, no matter what status
QuoteYou really think that will offset his "Magic Dice".
:d
Quote from: Orcs on 07 May 2025, 12:57:50 AMYou really think that will offset his "Magic Dice".
I've got some Dutch Leopard 2s. They could count as French in 1812, surely?
I wish I knew what I'd done with my unpainted Russians. I was hoping to do all of Borodino. I'll have to look at the spare Austrian and French Artillery and crews if I can't get any more guns.
You might get away with 6MM for the cannon, using larger cannon as proxies, or even Rennaisance cannon.
For the crew you could stick an extra piece of card under their base to make them a bit taller.
In the LWM cannons are cannons - it's the uniform of the figures that might be different.
If I realy can't find the unpainted Russians I'll have to compare them with the French/Austrians/Etc I do still have to see what I can get away with. Flat 8mm should be relatively unnoticeable differences once painted.
Austrians artillery crew were in bicorns though...
Quote from: Last Hussar on 06 May 2025, 12:16:36 PMWally seems to have shut the business; the website is available to buy. Some of the terrain is on the Heroics site, but it looks like I won't be able to but the Prussians.
Oh! B*****r!
I've got tons of Austrians and had decided I needed to buy the French
Quote from: Gwydion on 07 May 2025, 08:49:53 PMOh! B*****r!
I've got tons of Austrians and had decided I needed to buy the French
Time to do swapsies?