We have some of my wife's relatives coming to stay this week and as a result I've had to have a good tidy up of my wargames stuff that has been lying around. I've managed to move it all into our bedroom and loft for the time being, but it made me realise that, if I ever finish my lead mountain, currently I've got nowhere to store the finished armies! Am I alone in having this issue to deal with, which I seriously doubt? How do other forum members address this issue? I'd love to know.
Have the same problem. Much easier to store when unpainted. I turned the loft into two bedrooms for the little ones and "claimed" one of the bedrooms that became "vacant".
Been there, solved that.
I built a 17' x 10' hut in my back garden.
A couple of years ago I got fed up with everything in different sized boxes etc
Our local stationary shop sells clear plastic boxes - the standard is A4 and comes in 2 depths - 20mm and 50mm
the 20mm ones are great for most 6mm and some 10mm boxes
the 50mm ones are for 10mm armies with cavalry and infantry standards and a lot of 15mm armies
there is alos a range called Tiger Brand Tuff Storage Box which are A4and are 30mm deep
I've started storing terrain in them as well
Here's one of my 2 storage shelves
It also helps to have a converted garage
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb456/alanmillicheap/Misc/IMG_20181007_1603261_zpstyw2iejk.jpg)
I have a garage, and lots of Tiger cub 40mm deep boxes
I have had things in a loft and a garage and they can suffer in winter, particularly paper and MDF, so be selective what you store there.
For about a year, I have been pretending to go through a 'rationalisation', a slim down in other words .... no me, just the games.
This can need a bit of an aggressive approach, especially for me as I have also decided to increase some of my boardgame side of things over the next few years.
For the remaining figures, the two things I have done is try to convert to boxes / drawers that are as shallow as I can get away with, so that there s more efficient stacking. Secondly I have just bought two of those plastic frames on wheels that have plastic drawers (as sold by Range, Hobby Craft, Homebase, Rymans etc). as they are on wheels, they can be stored pushed up against my bookcases side on and just wheeled out of the way whn I need access to the shelves. One has 8 x 3" deep drawers, ideal for 10mm buildings and the other has 5 deeper draws, which I use for hex tiles and 'things'.
I think for most people, everything to do with wargame storage is a compromise and you can only do what you can only do.
I am very lucky as I have no storage issues.
I have a 13'x17' Den/painting room with a large built in cupboard and 30' of shelving. I also have the loft above the garage. Plus a third of the house loft.
Our garage gets too cold and damp in the winter, as I found out to my cost many years ago, then like an over in the summer! So that's a no go area now. The loft is OK, but again suffers from the same heat issues. Luckily I have gained a load of good storage boxes from work, but just lack space for them. Some more clearing out may help and terrain wise I'm pretty much there, so there is possibly light at the end of the tunnel.
Most of my stuff is in box files, some are double layered inside to mean more figures per box.
Storage is always a challenge
Standardising on one or two types of drawers/boxes certainly helps :)
Unfortunately the local manufacturer appears to have stopped making the drawers I standardised on years ago ~X(
Still looking for a shallow enough replacement in NZ
Part of my figure planning is storage. I use Really Useful Boxes, and plan the army round the capacity, and vice versa.
Quote from: Last Hussar on 07 October 2018, 09:22:55 PM
Part of my figure planning is storage. I use Really Useful Boxes, and plan the army round the capacity, and vice versa.
Yep, really useful boxes. ;)
Quote from: Dr Dave on 08 October 2018, 08:21:03 PM
Yep, really useful boxes. ;)
I have about 80 of them, 4 litre capacity plus quite a few other box types.
I use mainly really useful boxes now. The problem is to finish your Amy you always end up with an empty compartment or two in the tray. This means you have to get another unit or two to fill it up. You then find that to complete the unit you need another tray. This then means you may need another box an this con tines ad infinitude :)
I awoke this morning with a renewed intention to get my wargaming stuff off the floor and force it back to sit on the shelving unit, which I can't easily get at, because of the 'efficient' floor stacks!
I have woken most mornings for many months with the same intention! but today, the Force is strong.
I don't know what the next 12 hours will bring, but there needs to be a radical part to the proceedings, otherwise things just get shifted / shuffled to another place.
There is a mindset part to this, a sort of liberation that needs firm action and in that dear friends, I have no doubt that the local Refuse Centre plays its sad part, as does e-bay and a favoured charity shop.
I used to live in a small apartment and to keep things sensible, there was a golden rule that applied to everything when something new was bought .... one in, one out. That was the only way to keep a tidy ship. It is very hard to apply that to wargaming and since moving, that discipline of everything having to earn its place has gone - that spirit needs to be recaptured.
Hopefully today, I won't just sit there looking at it and something will happen.
Good luck Old Man.
It's a tricky mission.
Some might say your chances are slim. But we have every confidence in you.
Tally ho!
Hope it all goes well and it is a nice feeling when you do finish that clear out cum tidy up.
I have 3 current storage options,
Storage 1: my bigger 28mm skirmish forces are in KR Multicase. (I do need to get more trays to alleviate storage method 3)
Storage 2: all of my 10mm/15mm Multibased armies are in magnetised box files, alongside my 28mm unit based armies which I eventually got round to magnetising most of them.
Storage 3: Everything else sitting in any old box I could find that vaguely fitted.
My eventual plan is to shift everything over to KR and magnetised box files depending on scale and function, but that's a lot of planning time away.
Good luck Norm, I hope the Force remained strong long enough to make some progress ;) :)
Didn't want to leave that story on a cliff edge :-)
I am amazed, the Force stayed strong !
Everything is off the floor and the shelves look fairly orderly and there is spare space. The look is good and the sense of order good for the soul.
The downside is that pretty much everything that was on the floor is now sitting in the garage, though a shed load of cardboard has gone to the junk. I am allowing myself one area of wargaming to come back in, so I need to think where to place the emphasis. My boardgaming stuff is a big bully and it is on the shelves already and I want to expand my boardgaming activity, but focus it more on series games - so which figure element to bring back in;
very small scale, perhaps 6mm and do large pinboard type gaming, perhaps with squares, everything will live in a few boxes.
Do 4 x 3 gaming on open table, can be in 10mm, needs a few more boxes
Do 4 x 3 gaming on my hex tiles (6 or 10mm), two large boxes of hex tiles and several more boxes of varied hex terrain does add surprisingly quite a bit more to the storage stakes., but I am comfortable with hexes.
Do 20mm WWII and 28mm everything else, but just smallish armies on 4 x 3, but most likely 6 x 3. Buildings are big and pretty varied (so plenty) to cover my fave periods. Much deeper boxes needed for trees. My eyes say yes, but my other senses are tingling.
Well done, that man =D> =D> =D>
The first three are all good options, the fourth is rightly setting off storage alarm bells
My solution has been quite radical and won't appeal to a certain type of hoarder. I have ditched many of my books. I have kept the major reference books but novels have gone and other books I will not read again have also gone, thus providing more shelving space for my RUBs,
I've found that most boxes are far too deep for the painted figs, meaning the finished stuff requires a lot more space than the bagged "lead mountain".
I've foudn 2 solutions.
Some while back Ikea sold an upright bathroom cabinet with a 400mm square footprint and steel shelves (also available in glass and plastic).
I got one and about 24 steel shelves which were ideal for a growing collection of magnetic bottom based armies.
The shelves are easily removed for transport to battle sites.
Unfortunately the good Doctor saw it as more storage an filled most of it with it with crap like scented candles and and other trinkets that will be given as gifts to friends.
I've recently solved the problem of transporting multiple shelves with some 16" square Pizza boxes.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075CLTXBV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075CLTXBV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
The Pizza boxes stack nicely on a shelving system, rendering the Ikea cabinet almost redundant.
I'm now looking at getting some 15 3/4" steel inserts for the boxes to do away with any requirement for the Ikea cabinet.
Those Pizza boxes are an interesting idea :-\
I'm pretty sure one of grocery warehouses sells them, I must do some measuring to see if Pikes will fit
It's laborious, but you can cut down the corregated cardboard boxes used for storing sheets of A4 copier paper; the lid needs to be cut down too. The result is light and sturdy, and can be made just the right size.
I agree that the greatest inefficiency of storage is the use of boxes that are too deep for their need. They use to do Box files that look about an inch or so deep. I only have one and have not seen another in years. Surprisingly they were no cheaper than the deeper 3" boxes, which may have ben the reason for their demise.
RUB sell inserts that provide two layers within a box, whilst Warbases now produce Mdf inserts for the four litre and nine litre RUBs that can provide two or more layers. A little more pricey than cardboard, but remarkably sturdy.
I got inserts from http://www.commission-figurines.co.uk these are also sized for 4L and 9L RUB. They come in a good variety of heights. I think I went with 20mm and 35mm ones. The 20mm are great for more modern troops who don't have flags and spears etc. You can get loads of layers these in to a box.
I too have used the shallower box files in the past, but they dont seem to be available, and they were normally more expensive than the deeper ones.
One of my friends puts an extra layer in his box files by putting four wooden supports in each corner, half the depth of the file, and then lays a piece of thick card on these with two opposite corners cut away for ease of removal.
I think if I were to that that, I would also glue a block in the centre for support and then glue a block directly above it on the card insert, using that block as an easy way to lift the insert out.
Natty idea :)
I'd also strongly recommend the Commission Figurines inserts for the 4 and 9 litre RUBs. Works well for troops or terrain with mixed heights. You have 70 or 140mm to pay with, so for example a 9 lt box with 30,35,35,40 is good for terrain and 4x 17.5mm in a 4lt box is fine for 6mm models or 10mm infantry (without flags/pikes etc.). These are a lot more flexible than RUB's own inserts as you can add in whatever internal sub-divisions are convenient. A 20,25,25 combination in a 4 lt box fits a surprising amount.
Those look like what I want - Not come up when I did earlier searches.
Think I need to contact them
Quote from: paulr on 13 October 2018, 08:28:46 PM
Those Pizza boxes are an interesting idea :-
I'm pretty sure one of grocery warehouses sells them, I must do some measuring to see if Pikes will fit
Very cheap if ordered in 50s or 100s. My lead mountain isn't quite that size, so I managed to get 10 x 16" square (and I think 45mm high) at £8.99 from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075CLTXBV/?coliid=I2A9WNHT2QXQUD&colid=NC25S2RGX438&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Most of my forces fit into a single box, but they are a little shallow for standard bearers, pikes etc.
I'm no great pike fan, but have a few "accidental" long spears.
Contemplating chopping down a lidded cardboard box to carry all the height sensitive elements.
I got some pizza boxes from the 'local' grocery warehouse on Saturday :)
330x300x45 came in a pack of 50 for the equivalent of 35p each :) :)
I've started transferring my 6mm troops into them, freeing up my deeper draws for my 10mm figures, particularly my ECW project with all their pikes :)
Thanks for the suggestion
The boxes A4 copier paper comes in can easily be converted to sturdy storage jobs; just takes a few minutes with a sharp knife (or some scissors if you're a certain Taff), and a drop of glue to secure the flaps at the narrow ends. You need to cut down the lid as well as the main box, or you'll have unnecessarily deep results.
Another vote for Commission Figurines inserts. I started using them earlier this year and they are excellent.
The 6mm mdf railway sections from Commission Figurines are excellent and would probably look OK with 10mm figures.
Take a look at Fred's Painting Diary thread for a hobby bits and bobs storage solution. Very nice indeed.
Quote from: Norm on 11 October 2018, 05:48:07 AM
I awoke this morning with a renewed intention to get my wargaming stuff off the floor and force it back to sit on the shelving unit, which I can't easily get at, because of the 'efficient' floor stacks!
:
Hopefully today, I won't just sit there looking at it and something will happen.
:) I feel your pain, brother!
Pizza box request for ideas...
I'm one of the advocates of Pizza boxes for army storage.
It's working well for me form a storage perspective.
However I am starting to face up to the transportation problems.
I didn't plan or implement any magnetic basing solution.
The MDF bases skate about on the cardboard bottom of the box and will inevitably rattle about like pinballs if transported in the back of the car.
I'm looking for a solution that relies on "temporary stickiness" - think like Post-it notes - but I've not found anything yet.
I'm going to cut a cardboard "Inner" to fit inside the box and reinforce the base (Figures weight more than Pizzas).
I hope to cover it with something tacky that will hold the bases when placed on, but allows them to peel off ready for gaming.
Do the good folks of the forum have any ideas?
Double sided sticky tape?
Could try Glu dots? Like blu tack but maybe a bit stronger?
Quote from: steve_holmes_11 on 30 December 2018, 10:55:28 AM
Pizza box request for ideas...
I'm one of the advocates of Pizza boxes for army storage.
It's working well for me form a storage perspective.
However I am starting to face up to the transportation problems.
I didn't plan or implement any magnetic basing solution.
The MDF bases skate about on the cardboard bottom of the box and will inevitably rattle about like pinballs if transported in the back of the car.
What is stopping you implementing a magnet basing solution? All of my bases have magnetic bases cut from magnetic sheet available from Magnetic Displays' Lightweight Range. It is adhesive backed so it's simple to cut to your preferred size, peel back the paper and stick it onto the underside of the base. For storage, I've used two methods. I used to have cardboard boxes which I lined with steel paper (again, as far as I know, still available from Magnetic Displays) but now I use tin boxes (the type you get when you buy chocolate biscuits or shortbread in the supermarket). The tin boxes are obviously sturdier than cardboard boxes - only (slight) 'drawback' is that I have boxes of various shapes and sizes because the tins come from various biscuit and shortbread manufacturers!
Quote from: Westmarcher on 30 December 2018, 01:36:08 PM
What is stopping you implementing a magnet basing solution? All of my bases have magnetic bases cut from magnetic sheet available from Magnetic Displays' Lightweight Range. It is adhesive backed so it's simple to cut to your preferred size, peel back the paper and stick it onto the underside of the base. For storage, I've used two methods. I used to have cardboard boxes which I lined with steel paper (again, as far as I know, still available from Magnetic Displays) but now I use tin boxes (the type you get when you buy chocolate biscuits or shortbread in the supermarket). The tin boxes are obviously sturdier than cardboard boxes - only (slight) 'drawback' is that I have boxes of various shapes and sizes because the tins come from various biscuit and shortbread manufacturers!
I found getting a good match of the magnets to the base more and more difficult as my eyesight required correction.
Another reason, through not a particularly good one, is that I found the magnetic stuff quite slippery, which changed almost any wargame hill into the Cresta Run.
Of course naked MDF is also very slippery, so that problem requires a different solution.
A friend found a solution ... of sorts ... to the problem of magnetic base slippage.
His hills were not flocked but coated with iron filings and spray painted!
Units that spent too long defending a slope could become difficult to remove :)
Quote from: steve_holmes_11 on 30 December 2018, 01:40:55 PM
I found getting a good match of the magnets to the base more and more difficult as my eyesight required correction.
Another reason, through not a particularly good one, is that I found the magnetic stuff quite slippery, which changed almost any wargame hill into the Cresta Run.
Of course naked MDF is also very slippery, so that problem requires a different solution.
Don't
fully understand the matching issue, Steve (I understand you are long sighted but, then again, you also collect/play with 10mm figs). You don't really need the magnet to match the base exactly. For example, most of my bases are 25mm x 25mm square and I cut 20mm x 20mm squares from the 0.55mm thick self adhesive magnetic sheets (which are 40mm wide x 200mm long) and stick them on the bottom of the base. This works equally well with my 10mm (up to 8 ) and 15mm (up to 4) figures on the 25mm square base.
Yes, there can be a problem on certain slopes with bases that have smooth undersides. Fortunately it doesn't happen too often in most games (unless you are doing a re-fight of The Battle of the Pyrenees). My solution was to cut a few bases or sabots from steel paper (I've only cut enough for one and a half units - about 4 sabots - that's how often I need them). I then stuck some thin self adhesive pads (you know, the type you get in the Pound Shop, etc. to stick to the underside of ornaments so that the base doesn't scratch your furniture) - on one side of the steel paper base. My magnetised bases stick to the steel paper base/sabot and the thin felt pad on the underside of the steel base/sabot grips the hill. Voila! No sliding.
(Unfortunately, I can't post photos on this forum but if you want some pics sent to you, drop me a personal message)
Hey,
I wanted to share my storage solution here. I found some nice trays from the H&M store.
https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/productpage.0464712005.html
Size: 5x18x33 cm
By adding floor protectors to the corners, I made them stackable and not moving on top of each other. I find them great for this scale.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7825/45888955124_c6476bb9e8.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cV3TBs)1 (https://flic.kr/p/2cV3TBs) by Atte Von Kraut (https://www.flickr.com/photos/160660234@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7867/45888955044_4515e3f35c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cV3TA5)2 (https://flic.kr/p/2cV3TA5) by Atte Von Kraut (https://www.flickr.com/photos/160660234@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7830/45698748115_9a9cee3dd2.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cCf2Gg)3 (https://flic.kr/p/2cCf2Gg) by Atte Von Kraut (https://www.flickr.com/photos/160660234@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7853/45888954964_602b90a29c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cV3TyG)4 (https://flic.kr/p/2cV3TyG) by Atte Von Kraut (https://www.flickr.com/photos/160660234@N05/), on Flickr
They look good and sturdy!
I use these things https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00TH5A37E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ehmmCb7AECW5G which I find are a good height and size. Clear plastic is easy to see what's in it too without pulling it all out. Though I do like the dark wood trays for the presentation value.
I'm a Really Useful Box user. Lots of different sizes.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Really-Useful-Box-Litre-Transparent/dp/B0771HDM11/ref=sr_1_6?s=officeproduct&ie=UTF8&qid=1546702234&sr=1-6&keywords=really+useful+10l (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Really-Useful-Box-Litre-Transparent/dp/B0771HDM11/ref=sr_1_6?s=officeproduct&ie=UTF8&qid=1546702234&sr=1-6&keywords=really+useful+10l)
I'm trying to standardize on 9L Really Useful Boxes for figures but have some bigger ones for boardgames that I have several add-ons for (I'm looking at you Firefly and Merchants and Marauders :) )
https://www.ryman.co.uk/really-useful-storage-box-9-litre
I am also a 4L and 9L RUB man.
Quote from: Noktu on 05 January 2019, 12:54:31 PM
Hey,
I wanted to share my storage solution here. I found some nice trays from the H&M store.
https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/productpage.0464712005.html
Size: 5x18x33 cm
By adding floor protectors to the corners, I made them stackable and not moving on top of each other. I find them great for this scale.
Ooooh, I like those. Are they available in the physical store, or is it online only?
Cheers, M.
--
Quote from: Raider4 on 05 January 2019, 09:51:50 PM
Ooooh, I like those. Are they available in the physical store, or is it online only?
Cheers, M.
--
Here in Finland H&M Stores mainly sell clothes, so I had to order them online. But their Mailing service is super fast, the order showed up in the nearby post just in 2 days.
Quote from: Westmarcher on 30 December 2018, 02:41:40 PM
Don't fully understand the matching issue, Steve (I understand you are long sighted but, then again, you also collect/play with 10mm figs). You don't really need the magnet to match the base exactly. For example, most of my bases are 25mm x 25mm square and I cut 20mm x 20mm squares from the 0.55mm thick self adhesive magnetic sheets (which are 40mm wide x 200mm long) and stick them on the bottom of the base. This works equally well with my 10mm (up to 8 ) and 15mm (up to 4) figures on the 25mm square base.
Yes, there can be a problem on certain slopes with bases that have smooth undersides. Fortunately it doesn't happen too often in most games (unless you are doing a re-fight of The Battle of the Pyrenees). My solution was to cut a few bases or sabots from steel paper (I've only cut enough for one and a half units - about 4 sabots - that's how often I need them). I then stuck some thin self adhesive pads (you know, the type you get in the Pound Shop, etc. to stick to the underside of ornaments so that the base doesn't scratch your furniture) - on one side of the steel paper base. My magnetised bases stick to the steel paper base/sabot and the thin felt pad on the underside of the steel base/sabot grips the hill. Voila! No sliding.
(Unfortunately, I can't post photos on this forum but if you want some pics sent to you, drop me a personal message)
All clearly stated stuff.
I'm on the lookout for a supplier of precision cut adhesive magnetic stuff - failing that I'll try cutting slightly undersize pieces.
Meanwhile I've found a grid of small blu-tack balls gives a good grip on the underlying surface.
It's main drawback is the time to detach an army from its boz.
Quote from: Leman on 05 January 2019, 06:36:04 PM
I am also a 4L and 9L RUB man.
I am also a RUB man.
I have about 80 of the 4L/9L variety as well as a few larger ones 18L/21L.
I think I need to buy a few more.
Quote from: steve_holmes_11 on 07 January 2019, 10:32:15 PM
All clearly stated stuff.
I'm on the lookout for a supplier of precision cut adhesive magnetic stuff - failing that I'll try cutting slightly undersize pieces.
Meanwhile I've found a grid of small blu-tack balls gives a good grip on the underlying surface.
It's main drawback is the time to detach an army from its boz.
Steve, Litko in the US will do custom cut adhesive magnets
Richard
I put magnetic sheet on the bases of all my figures. Then use metal storage containers, or thin steel paper in box files or RUBs.
As for cutting the magnetic sheet - this is very easy to do with a knife and a ruler. I also cut mine a couple of mm smaller than the base they are going on, makes cutting easier, and picking up figures a little easier.
Quote from: rct75001 on 07 January 2019, 11:49:00 PM
Steve, Litko in the US will do custom cut adhesive magnets
Richard
Thanks, I've bought from Litko before.
Thoroughly recommend their products and service.
Unfortunately the import duties are eye watering.
So UK based would suit me best.
Quote from: steve_holmes_11 on 08 January 2019, 04:00:54 PM
Thanks, I've bought from Litko before.
Thoroughly recommend their products and service.
Unfortunately the import duties are eye watering.
So UK based would suit me best.
I got some good recommendations here: http://www.pendrakenforum.co.uk/index.php/topic,18085.0.html
I use the bases Simon Miller supplies, drilled for rare earth magnets for my TtS 28mm armies. Otherwise I use the rubber rolls used to prevent carpets from slipping to line my storage boxes.
I have all the drawers in my storage chests lined with Grip Mat, which sounds similar to what you have described. It can be seen here https://www.homebase.co.uk/multipurpose-grip-mat-ivory-120-x-45cm_p373922. It works really well.
Aldi has that at the moment - might have to have a look!
Very similar to the stuff I use, except mine is a charcoal grey colour.