As some of you may be aware I've got a significant number of sabot bases on the way from Leon
The majority of them are 130x55mm but some of them are larger 130x95mm all have a large central hole (for multiple 40x40 or 40x30mm bases) and most of the edges are only 3mm wide
I've not worked much with MDF and am interested in suggestions on how best to glue the bases ensuring good alignment and avoid warping
Is applying weight to the bases while the glue dries, to ensure a good bond and avoid warping, a good idea?
If so how do you apply weight without risking movement and misalignment?
Should I paint before or after gluing?
I made a load for Warband a couple of years ago - and I'm trying to remember what I did in detail, but am struggling. Which suggests that it was very straightforward.
You don't need a lot of glue to get the top part attached to the base - which will help avoid warping. And the glue sticks very quickly on the MDF.
I added dice frames to the corner of mine, which would have prevented adding weight above, I do remember having a stack of them as I assembled them, which would have had a fair bit of weight to it.
I painted after assembly. I wasn't worried about getting some paint into the well were the troops go.
I've stuck dice frames to painted and unpainted bases using superglue, no problems. I've stuck MDF bases edge to edge using PVA glue, again no worries. As MDF is basically wood anything suitable for the material should do. One caveat however, I wouldn't recommend diluted mediums as MDF is absorbent so painting or varnishing first is a must. I give mine a spray with car primer firstjust in case. IMHO.
Them's big sabots! I use small ones but I just use the base with holes stuck down to a bit of card to reduce overall height.
To prevent warping, just put spots of PVA glue along the edges rather than a whole spread. A bit of weight will help, but try not to let the glue spots meet each other - less is more! Warping is mostly caused when a continuous sheet of glue contracts on drying. Movement shouldn't be an issue unless you have very shaky hands! Paint after this dries (leave the glue a day or so), and that'll help fill any gap.
One thing - PVA will give you plenty of time to adjust alignment but once you've left it to dry it'll rip the surface of the MDF up if you try to separate the layers!
Quote from: Wulf on 25 May 2018, 09:04:09 AM
I use small ones but I just use the base with holes stuck down to a bit of card to reduce overall height.
I have been wondering about this - as the 2mm MDF base below the sabot part, really does make quite a chunky construction. I'm thinking of sabots of similar size to Paul's, a 120mm x 40mm hole, with 3-5mm round the sides and around 10mm at the back. I do wonder if that will be very flimsy if done on card...
Quote from: fred. on 25 May 2018, 09:57:17 AMI do wonder if that will be very flimsy if done on card...
You could use plasticard - or just bits of plastic sheet from packaging if you have enough of it. Use superglue in that case though, PVA won't stick it. Glue first & trim the sheet later.
Yes, 1mm plastic card will probably be rigid enough with an MDF frame. I think I have some old signs I could use for this. Ta.
If you don't have enough old signs you should be able to get some relatively cheaply from a sign writers supplier
Thanks for the useful advice, I suspect it will not be too difficult in practice ;)
To avoid warping mdf I use UHU adhesive which I buy from Poundland.
Martin