Anybody out in Pendraken land got any advice on painting faces please? All info gratefully received!
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This is how I do it, though it may be more involved than you want, but it can be simplified;
Start by blocking in all the flesh with Foundry Spearshaft. Granted, you could use the Foundry Flesh Shade, but it's a bit too subtle at this scale, indeed I use the Spearshaft colour regardless of scale (figure 9).
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g303/clibinarium/AWI/figure9.jpg)
Use Foundry Flesh Light to paint in the details of the face, notice the mid shades are not used as three colours are not needed on small figures and the contrasts should not be subtle. I've shown the stages of this on the hatmen in figure 10, progressing left to right. The brow is done with a dot between the eyebrows and two lines to represent the brows. If you angle these downward slightly, it can give the soldier a frowning, serious look, which I think marching men should have. The nose and cheekbones are done the same way, though the nose should be more of a downward stroke. The mouth can be a flattened circle, much like clown makeup. Finally the jowls can be filled in, but try to keep the cheekbones and the mouth separate. Hands can be done with a solid area to represent the backs and palms, and two rows of four dots or strokes to represent the figures. Alternately, just use four long strokes for the fingers.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g303/clibinarium/AWI/figure10.jpg)
This does take time, but it's not complicated, and I feel it really brings the figures to life. You can of course tweak it to your own liking; for instance a single line for the brow works as well. If any of the lines or dots aren't perfect don't worry too much, I usually just move on. Once the flesh is done the figures are practically finished (figure 11)
From a guide to painting AWI I did a while back.
http://anothersuchvictory.blogspot.co.uk/2009/05/lobsters-how-to-paint-10mm-redcoats.html
Personally, I paint the face a lighter shade of the intended final colour. Wash it with black or dark brown ink. A stripe of the original colour down the nose, a swipe across each cheekbone and maybe a dot on the chin and I'm done.
Quick'n'dirty but it works for me.
Where you bin Mike?
Haven't seen a post from for a few days...
Quote from: clibinarium on 14 April 2017, 06:43:12 PM
This is how I do it, though it may be more involved than you want, but it can be simplified;
Start by blocking in all the flesh with Foundry Spearshaft. Granted, you could use the Foundry Flesh Shade, but it's a bit too subtle at this scale, indeed I use the Spearshaft colour regardless of scale (figure 9).
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g303/clibinarium/AWI/figure9.jpg)
Use Foundry Flesh Light to paint in the details of the face, notice the mid shades are not used as three colours are not needed on small figures and the contrasts should not be subtle. I've shown the stages of this on the hatmen in figure 10, progressing left to right. The brow is done with a dot between the eyebrows and two lines to represent the brows. If you angle these downward slightly, it can give the soldier a frowning, serious look, which I think marching men should have. The nose and cheekbones are done the same way, though the nose should be more of a downward stroke. The mouth can be a flattened circle, much like clown makeup. Finally the jowls can be filled in, but try to keep the cheekbones and the mouth separate. Hands can be done with a solid area to represent the backs and palms, and two rows of four dots or strokes to represent the figures. Alternately, just use four long strokes for the fingers.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g303/clibinarium/AWI/figure10.jpg)
This does take time, but it's not complicated, and I feel it really brings the figures to life. You can of course tweak it to your own liking; for instance a single line for the brow works as well. If any of the lines or dots aren't perfect don't worry too much, I usually just move on. Once the flesh is done the figures are practically finished (figure 11)
From a guide to painting AWI I did a while back.
http://anothersuchvictory.blogspot.co.uk/2009/05/lobsters-how-to-paint-10mm-redcoats.html
Thanks for that tutorial! That was truly inspirational, but I think your quality of work is something I can't replicate. Nonetheless, I shall be saving this link with many, many thanks.
Graham
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Quote from: Ithoriel on 14 April 2017, 06:47:25 PM
Personally, I paint the face a lighter shade of the intended final colour. Wash it with black or dark brown ink. A stripe of the original colour down the nose, a swipe across each cheekbone and maybe a dot on the chin and I'm done.
Quick'n'dirty but it works for me.
I have used this technique after a fashion. How do you stop the wash running? Also, do you dilute the wash first please? Thank you for posting.
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I block paint all my 10mm figures, no shading.
For light coloured uniforms I wash the figure in a 1:1 wash of water/soft tone ink.
For dark coloured uniforms I wash the figure in a 1:1 wash of water/dark tone ink.
It works for me.
I just block paint the faces with a flesh coloured paint and then (normally) apply a Devlin Mud wash over the whole figure. Once on the table you barely notice any lack of highlighting etc, well with my eyes that's the case :D
I tend to use hobby or artists acrylic inks and just dot a blob of ink on the face - unless, like Steve, I'm planning a wash over the whole figure.
I don't usually bother diluting it. If I want a "thinner" wash I tend to use a lighter shade of ink.
I block paint the face dark brown then paint flesh in 5 strokes: across the forehead, down the nose, down the cheeks, a dab to the chin. If the ears show I give them a dab as well. This is the only time I use two colours on a 10mm figure, other than the occasional bit of dry brushing. Incidentally I have abandoned the idea of undercoating in black, except for armour, as I can't make out any detail. Consequently I hand prime in white, block paint, apart from the face, hand apply acrylic satin varnish then use magic wash to apply a little shading. Looks ok on the table.
Leman: what is 'magic wash' please?
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I don't usually bother diluting it. If I want a "thinner" wash I tend to use a lighter shade of ink.
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What inks do you use, please?
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Quote from: urbancohort on 15 April 2017, 09:03:43 AM
Leman: what is 'magic wash' please?
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Go to www.fat-wally.com
Click on Painting Service and it will give you his recipe for magic wash. He is a good painter, but all his examples are 15mm.
Quote from: urbancohort on 15 April 2017, 09:04:23 AM
What inks do you use, please?
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I currently have a mix of Vallejo, Army Painter, Games Workshop, Windsor & Newton, Miniature Paints, Daler-Rowney and AV inks! I'm as see-it-want-it-buy-it with paints and inks as with wargames figures :)
As I use a black undercoat I just use the same 5 strokes method as Leman. I can also recommend the Magic Wash. I use it with both black and dark brown.
MickS
Quote from: Leman on 15 April 2017, 09:14:37 AM
Go to www.fat-wally.com
Click on Painting Service and it will give you his recipe for magic wash. He is a good painter, but all his examples are 15mm.
Hi
The link in the recipe pdf is broken, it leads to some Asian page. Try https://web.archive.org/web/20120424032155/http://www.paintingclinic.com:80/clinic/guestarticles/magicwash.htm (https://web.archive.org/web/20120424032155/http://www.paintingclinic.com:80/clinic/guestarticles/magicwash.htm)
I'll put here in full in case it goes missing one day:-
"Magic Wash
Hello, fellow figure painters. I believe I have finally found the perfect "wash" for miniature figures. A few weeks ago I admired some Boxer war figures of local painter here in Southern California. "Dow the Programmer" told me how to make his "Magic Wash", and I have been trying it out recently. I am stoked by it. Magic Wash blows the doors off of every other wash technique I have ever used! And it is so inexpensive as to be negligible! And it is easier than most other wash techniques!
Here is the recipe:
Buyer's a bottle of "FUTURE acrylic floor finish for non-wax and regular floors" by Johnson & Son. In the U.S. it comes in big 800 ml (27 ounce) clear plastic squeeze bottles for about $7, and was available in both supermarkets I checked. This is more than I can probably use in a lifetime. The clear liquid inside is slightly more viscous than water. I imagine there are similar products in other countries, and I recommend that we identify them.
Pre-mix some of the FUTURE, one part of acrylic finish to four parts of water. This is the Magic Wash stock. I made mine up in a liter sealable milk bottle. Making a clear stock up ahead of time allows the small bubbles which can result when mixed with water to subside over time.
Devote one brush to be the Magic Wash brush. I don't know if this is really necessary, but it seems safer to me, since the formula of the FUTURE finish is different from those of our acrylic paints.
When you are ready to use it, mix a little of the Magic Wash stock with a small amount of your chosen pigment. Stir it with your brush, don't shake it. I have successfully used inks and acrylic paints as wig men TS.
Brush over your figures and allow to dry. It dries just about as quickly as acrylic paints.
It sucks the pigment right down into the crevasses and keeps it there. Doesn't let it "osmosis" back up. And the high areas remain remarkably clear ! I have used black, dark brown, and light tan (for white marble).
And Magic Wash even gives a hard protective coating !! It's not too shiny, but a final coat of dullcote often makes the figures look better to my eye.
What DON'T I like about it? Well, I've mentioned the little bubbles, with a method for avoiding them. The only other "problem" is that, if you tend to lick your brush while painting, the stuff tastes TERRIBLE !! So I have given up that habit when using Magic Wash.
Update 7/23/11 - In the US (maybe elsewhere as well) Future Floor Polish is now called Pledge with Future Shine.
Future is available only in the United States. However it is sold under other names, or there are similar products, available in other countries.
United Kingdom: Klear or Krystal Klear
Netherlands: Pronto Wax for Wood Floors or Parket Plus
France: Klir
Germany: Erdal Glanzer
Australia: Pledge One Go
Xtracolour, which makes military hobby paints, make "Acrylic Gloss Clear" which seams to be repackaged Future.
If your country is not listed, check your local supermarket for a clear, acrylic-based floor polish."
Cheers
GrumpyOldMan
I used to go to Fat Wally's site quite a bit. It doesn't look like much gas been done on it for a good amount t of time now
Hello All again
For Australian readers , the Pledge One Go is no longer available. Some posts have mentioned Pascoe's Long Lifehttps://www.bunnings.com.au/long-life-1l-self-shining-floor-polish_p4460498 (https://www.bunnings.com.au/long-life-1l-self-shining-floor-polish_p4460498) but I don't have any direct experience.
Cheers
GrumpyOldMan
Well I have just been on Fat Wally's page. He has added a vast number of ECW regiments to his Basic Baroque thread, making this a very useful resource for uniforms, flags etc. Further, I tried the magic wash recipe. I clicked on Painting Service, then clicked on Magic Wash Recipe, and the article automatically downloaded to my computer. This is written for the UK public.