Does anyone use the Baccus basing system? I do. The first thing to run out was the PVA. Easy. Buy more in the DIY store. Then static grass. Easy. Buy more from the local (now closed down) Hobby shop. I've now run out of Foundation Wash. Cost for a replacement is £6 plus p+p from Baccus so I'm thinking, what is it? Is it an ink? Could I get it cheaper (and quicker) locally? Any recommendations?
Quote from: Westmarcher on 14 February 2016, 10:29:53 PM
Does anyone use the Baccus basing system? I do. The first thing to run out was the PVA. Easy. Buy more in the DIY store. Then static grass. Easy. Buy more from the local (now closed down) Hobby shop. I've now run out of Foundation Wash. Cost for a replacement is £6 plus p+p from Baccus so I'm thinking, what is it? Is it an ink? Could I get it cheaper (and quicker) locally? Any recommendations?
Not sure what the Baccus option is but I use Army Painter Soft Tone for figures and bases. The acrylic version in the small plastic bottles.
Thanks, Jim. I'll look further into that option.
I use Soft Tone, GW Agrax Earthshade and Winsor and Newton Sepia pretty much on the basis of whatever comes to hand first.
Quote from: Ithoriel on 14 February 2016, 11:38:41 PM
I use Soft Tone, GW Agrax Earthshade and Winsor and Newton Sepia pretty much on the basis of whatever comes to hand first.
You have to be careful with Winsor & Newton inks as they can be lifted by a coat of varnish if they are not completely dry. I usually leave for at least 24 hours before varnishing.
Jim, I paint so slowly these days that letting things dry properly is the least of my problems :)
But you're right, it needs a little more care than the others.
Quote from: Ithoriel on 14 February 2016, 11:45:59 PM
Jim, I paint so slowly these days that letting things dry properly is the least of my problems :)
You're not slow Mike, you're just geologic!
I watch glaciers go by and wonder why they're in such a hurry!
Westmarcher, if you are talking about the brown wash which goes over the basing material I don't use it at all because it has a tendency to lift the grit. Instead I mix a little PVA with a slightly watered down Vallejo Tan Yellow. When dry I then wash with watered down Vallejo Chocolate brown; finally I dry brush with Vallejo Yellow Ochre and sometimes do an even lighter dry brush over that as well. If you are stickking with the Baccus paints, then use the watered down Chocolate Brown with a little PVA added.
Magic Wash, end of. Lasts for decades and you can easily replace it.
I hate it when the basing material comes loose during painting - my solution's been to paint over the basing material (grit) with more PVA so it sets rock solid well-before painting.
I don't know what the foundation wash is, but I basically use GW Agrax Earthshade (brown shading wash) or GW Nuln Oil (black shade wash that I use for metals) or GW Athonian Camoshade (a brown-green shade wash for 10mm Zombies) for my wash needs. No doubt won't help you, but...
Westmarcher, are you going to the Albanich show at Dumfries on the 12th March?
http://solwaycraftsandminiatures.webs.com/albanich2016.htm (http://solwaycraftsandminiatures.webs.com/albanich2016.htm)
Windsor and Newton sepia for me... Any holes get turned into mud patches or covered with flock!
Hi Westie
Mine ran out a while back. I have found that watered down Winsor andNewton Galleria Acrylic "Burnt Umber" matches almost exactly. A tube is about £4
He also refuses to sell the Basing paints seperately. You use far more of the Base coat than the others.
I would like to match the colours so my bases match so does anyone know the exact colours?
Excellent! Loads of ideas to try. I think I'll try the PVA route first because that is what is currently to hand but will compile a list of the other suggestions for me next visit to Glasgow (Art Shop and Hobby Shop there). Thanks again. :-bd
Sorry, Orcs. I've got no clue (as you know, they are simply described as Base, Mid and Top) but some good ideas above that have obviously worked.
The top one is almost identical to Vajello pale flesh.