I continue to struggle in getting a right 'formula / technique' for dipping - regardless of scale.
I suppose in some respects part of the fault is that I just want to gloop on a 'dip' and for it just to work, without it totally ruining all the work done or then needing substantial highlighting to recover the figure and lose the gloominess.
Anyway, my latest trials and tribulations seem to be getting me nearer my goal. I am just doing some 12mm Union leaders and have inked them (read liberal brushing all over) with diluted inks from Army Painter. The figure doesn't 'pop' but does have a natural look.
I have got an empty Vallejo type bottle filled with water and 20% flow aide from Winsor and Newton's artists acrylic mediums. I am then essentially making an ink and water mix in the ratio of 50/50, but adjusting the inks to suit the figure. So for earth tones I would just use strong tone but for my mainly dark blue union, I have used both strong tone and dark tone (like mixing blackish and brownish inks) - the mix looks like 1 of black, 1 of brown and two of water, keeping my 50/50 ratio.
Anyway, it seems to be working ok, it unifies the figure, dampens down some of the brighter block painting and gently shades in a way that is present but not too obvious.
to protect the highlights from the ink, after block painting I use satin varnish, wait 36 hours and then ink and then wait 24 hours and mat varnish - hopefully this will prove to be a good general method of getting reasonable results while keeping up the production line approach to getting units onto the table.
Any chance of a piccy, Norm ?
Cheers - Phil
Phil, will mat coat today, base tomorrow and then put up a pic.
I try and deliberately paint figures lighter, knowing the wash will tone them down
Quote from: Norm on 18 April 2015, 06:01:27 AM
Phil, will mat coat today, base tomorrow and then put up a pic.
Excellent !
Look forward to that.
Cheers - Phil
Cool.
I use Windsor and Newton inks myself, more expensive but great.
Or... B&Q acrylic wood stain, at massively cheaper cost! ;)
Alternatively you can use the Magic Wash method like wot I does.
Youtube tutorial here:
http://www.google.co.uk/url?url=http://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DgR3aIAth5qU&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&sa=U&ei=cXkyVbXANIP0aorggbAH&ved=0CBUQtwIwAA&sig2=Hgg9EYcrGbvmuXsFNv-IrA&usg=AFQjCNErBx4EeNjwGw2sCwgOMpZGthO9Pw
I swap between W&N and AP inks. If the figure has a lot of white or yellow I go for W&N nut brown as it doesnt dull lighter colours down as much otherwise I use AP especially on figures with lots of metallic colours or flesh
Mick - I have the Future, but am not keen on the smell.
Fenton - a few days ago I spilled my W&N black ink over my hand, which turned instantly black and is a toughie to get out of rough, tough, craggy, cracked, manly hands. In a tantrum I threw both the black and the nut brown in the bin ..... you have me regretting the nut brown thing because that has a much gentler stain, but the black is very intense.
I have never used the black . I only use the nut brown or is it peat brown because it was recommended on the Baccus site
Quote from: paulr on 18 April 2015, 06:01:47 AM
I try and deliberately paint figures lighter, knowing the wash will tone them down
basically this.... keep the basecoats and colour blocking a shade or two lighter than you want your final colour to be, then a wash or dip brings it down to the shade you want
I often basecoat with AP colour primers and drybrush the models first, paint details and then wash
Seems to me you just have to keep experimenting. I keep a notebook of my trials and tribulations with paints, washes and varnishes,n so I have a record of what worked well for me (Windsor and Newton black in for example) and also what to avoid in future.
I have put a photo up on my 'Commanders' site to give an idea of how this latest ink experiment is working for me. You can click on the picture to enlarge.
LINK - http://commanders.simdif.com/video-links.html
Well that looks very effective to me. Nicely muted shading.
Looks fine to me as well.
You may ask for alternatives to explore new methods but the bottom line is that they are your figures, painted by you to a standard you are happy with, so any method you want to use is fine.
:-bd =D> :-bd
Certainly works for me :)
I use Army Painter Dark Tone as can be see on my LoA posts. I find it works very well. I do apply it with a brush!
Working on some Army of Tennessee figures in Confederate drab, which require quite a good wash to achieve the faded, lived in look I'm after. The AP soft tone gave a pale yellowish hue, which is acceptable as an AOT 1864 colour. Next tried dark tone, which gave a colour nearer to lightish khaki, again an acceptable colour. Will experiment with an even lighter base colour with strong tone again. Confederate drab can vary in colour as it is undyed sheep's wool. However it is likely that a unit would have the same colour jackets as they would have been issued at the same time.
Never used the army painter stuff but i am going to give it a try for my LOA stuff.