Hi all.
I've recently got into 6mm and think I may need to change my painting style.
So, what's your technique for:
1) Undercoating;
2) Armour;
3) Infantry. This is the one that really stumps me!
Cheers in advance all :)
With 6mm vehicles I undercoat black, then heavy dry brush of main colour,
Then add lighter drybrush of any Camo colour then I apply a wash.
Then a dry brush of main colour again followed by a very light dry brush of bleached bone.
Infantry paint in main cam colour then light drybrush of camo colours then a wash then hands and face.
Regards
Sean
Thanks Sean. I don't drybrush that often but at this scale I think I'm going to have to :-\
I undercoat light grey, paint main colours, then a couple of dry brushes to weather and highlight
One of the keys is to use lighter colours and strong contrasts (if you can) The small areas will look too dark if you use the right colours
Quote from: paulr on 15 March 2015, 07:09:29 PM
I undercoat light grey, paint main colours, then a couple of dry brushes to weather and highlight
One of the keys is to use lighter colours and strong contrasts (if you can) The small areas will look too dark if you use the right colours
Thanks Paul :)
How much detail do you go for on infantry?
Hands, faces, weapon stock, barrel, pack, boots, ...
Maybe webbing depending on pose
Some of my Polish infantry have Eagles on the front of their helmets (well a white blob)
Quote from: paulr on 15 March 2015, 07:25:37 PM
Hands, faces, weapon stock, barrel, pack, boots, ...
Maybe webbing depending on pose
Some of my Polish infantry have Eagles on the front of their helmets (well a white blob)
Wow!
Wouldn't have a piccie would you? :)
I've painted quite a few 6mm figures (all Baccus). I tend
to undercoat in black (sprayed on), then block in main
colours and highlight once. The usual advice when painting
over black, particularly in smaller scales, is to paint the colours
a shade lighter than you normally would expect.
I've tried to include some pics but keep having technical issues.
Instead, here is a link to my Photobucket account which has
loads of pics of Great Northern War / AWI & ACW figures.
GNW :
http://s761.photobucket.com/user/glorfindel-666/library/#/user/glorfindel-666/library/Great%20Northern%20War?sort=2&page=0&_suid=1426450305122036932530067730895 (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/glorfindel-666/library/#/user/glorfindel-666/library/Great%20Northern%20War?sort=2&page=0&_suid=1426450305122036932530067730895)
AWI :
http://s761.photobucket.com/user/glorfindel-666/library/#/user/glorfindel-666/library/6mm%20American%20War%20of%20Independence?sort=3&page=0&_suid=142645035041309410680568821841 (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/glorfindel-666/library/#/user/glorfindel-666/library/6mm%20American%20War%20of%20Independence?sort=3&page=0&_suid=142645035041309410680568821841)
ACW :
http://s761.photobucket.com/user/glorfindel-666/library/#/user/glorfindel-666/library/6mm%20American%20Civil%20War?sort=3&page=0&_suid=142645037322408489078039498212 (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/glorfindel-666/library/#/user/glorfindel-666/library/6mm%20American%20Civil%20War?sort=3&page=0&_suid=142645037322408489078039498212)
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Phil
Thanks Phil that's really helpful :)
Cracking minis too :-bd
For me it is
Spray grey
Wash of Vallejo Black Shade ( watered down)
Paint block Colours
Wash with watered down AP strong tone ink or W&N Peat Brown
If your painting British and using Vallejo use Khaki instead of English uniform as the latter is too dark
Quote from: Fenton on 15 March 2015, 08:24:20 PM
If your painting British and using Vallejo use Khaki instead of English uniform as the latter is too dark
Cheers Steve.
I'm going for German and Russian early Eastern.
I stick figures to either bases or painting sticks, former with superglue and the latter with Copydex, then spray them matt black.
I tend to paint the main colour and wash it then add detail and highlight it. Often finish with a wash on flesh if that wasn't "the main colour."
Spray matt varnish, touch up shiny bits (metal, water, etc) with paint on gloss varnish.
Some finished articles here
http://www.pendrakenforum.co.uk/index.php/topic,11666.0.html (http://www.pendrakenforum.co.uk/index.php/topic,11666.0.html)
Undercoat white, brown wash, main colours, blak wash, a few highlights, job done.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g440/dourpuritan/BBB%206mm%20armies/IMG_1391_zpsd4b5a6b5.jpg)
Thanks Ithoriel and Leman; good advice.
I don't, as yet, know how much or how little detail I want on these.
I usually undercoat black and then drybrush to bring out the detail (the drybrushing completely disappears) but with these guys I'm not sure I'm going to see any of the detail :-\
The joy of 6 is in the mass, not the detail.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g440/dourpuritan/BBB%206mm%20armies/IMG_1387_zps14dc8f75.jpg)
The entire French army for the Froeschwiller scenario in BBB.
Quote from: Leman on 16 March 2015, 08:48:34 AM
The joy of 6 is in the mass, not the detail.
;D
I think you're right, actually, you could apply that thinking to any scale.
Not going to overthink this one; who is going to look at the paint-job on a 6mm German rifleman?
That IS rather impressive ! 8)
Cheers - Phil
Oops!
Yeah, cracking job Leman. :-bd
Hope mine come close.
Black primer, block color, brown wash.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c297/kmfisher/imagejpg3_zps2c4224ac.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/kmfisher/media/imagejpg3_zps2c4224ac.jpg.html)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c297/kmfisher/miniatures/EIRlegions.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/kmfisher/media/miniatures/EIRlegions.jpg.html)
Those are awesome, Ken ! :-bd
Absolutely storming ! (I hate you ! ;) ;D)
Cheers - Phil
They really are amazing; top work Ken =D>
Those are really nice!
Very, very nice. A future 10mm project for me.
Very nice.
Lovely Ken
Never liked doing Irregular armies as it takes too long to make them all look individual, but you have a got a great look
Quote from: getagrip on 15 March 2015, 07:29:44 PM
Wouldn't have a piccie would you? :)
Here are a couple of picces taken at our Nationals back in 2007
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t197/paulreynolds999/tn_100_0037_zpsb594a5f6.jpg)
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t197/paulreynolds999/100_0029_zpsv4ebnxtk.jpg)
Can't see the eagles as infantry taken from behind but you can see the white eagle on a red background on the T34/85s ;)
These days with tanks & moderns I under coat in a primer that's close to te shade I want, detail (not much - headlights, camo, exhaust, flesh/weapon on infantry) then wash down/dry brush up to hit the appropriate colour I want - generally a bit lighter than "reality" so it pops a bit in six mm.
Very quick, looks good en masse. Nice bit of basing and it's golden.
For some Irregular late Romans I've been slowly finishing I actuall just went went under coat, pick out flesh, weapons, shield, cloak or tunic or armour and wash down with GW Reiskland flesh. Ten mins a block if that, and once based up they look pretty funky at wargaming distance!
Thanks Paul; they're fantastic :-bd
Pixie, I think you've about summed it up for me; they are 6mm. I'm not going to be painting eyebrows ;)
I'm lazy; I spray prime the uniform color, then hit the weapons and boots, then hands and face. Stick a lot of them out there and no one will notice ;)
V/R,
Jack
Jack, that's pretty much what I do, just a schwip of highlight or a wash to shade and define and it's done...
Quote from: getagrip on 16 March 2015, 10:00:52 PM
Thanks Paul; they're fantastic :-bd
Pixie, I think you've about summed it up for me; they are 6mm. I'm not going to be painting eyebrows ;)
Thanks :-[
Amazing what a wash and dry brush will do ;)
I think the key is to pick a few items and make sure there is plenty of contrast
When I first picked up some 6mm infantry back in the days of yore, I was baffled and tried to paint them like a "normal" scale figure. Needless to say, they never got sorted. Couple years later a mate was puzzled as to why I found them difficult, so I explained and he said base colour > dab flesh for face/hands > stripe of brown or metal or black on weapon > dab helmet/backpack, done.
My jaw dropped :D
Tehcniques advanced (and simplified, even!) a little since, but yeah. No painting eyebrows for sure ;)
Quote from: toxicpixie on 17 March 2015, 12:01:14 AM
When I first picked up some 6mm infantry back in the days of yore, I was baffled and tried to paint them like a "normal" scale figure. Needless to say, they never got sorted. Couple years later a mate was puzzled as to why I found them difficult, so I explained and he said base colour > dab flesh for face/hands > stripe of brown or metal or black on weapon > dab helmet/backpack, done.
My jaw dropped :D
Tehcniques advanced (and simplified, even!) a little since, but yeah. No painting eyebrows for sure ;)
I'm going to splosh some colour around this weekend and see what happens. ;)
May I extend this discussion to basing? Having finished painting my first 6mm figures I applied Baccus basing material liberally to the bases using my old faithful PVA adhesive. Having left it for an hour or so to dry I decided the time was ripe to go to the next stage and give the bases their brown wash. To my surprise, the wash lifted the material off the bases, leaving them pretty well bald. A quick test revealed that the PVA had entirely failed to hold the basing material on any of the bases.
So, what is the best adhesive to hold this stuff? The little tutorial on basing seems to be missing from the Baccus website at the moment. Any ideas?
Good point.
I'd also be interested to see what people use as flock / grit etc.
Will the stuff I use for 10mm be okay?
Quote from: getagrip on 17 March 2015, 05:39:34 PM
Good point.
I'd also be interested to see what people use as flock / grit etc.
Will the stuff I use for 10mm be okay?
I use the same stuff...Cant remember where I got it but its quite small
I apply B&Q flexible filler, let it set, paint it brown (shade varies), coat with thinned down evostick resin wood glue, dredge with sand, when dry flood sand with brown wash, allow to dry, drybrush with a couple of shades of brown/ beige depending on where in the world the figures are supposed to be, paint areas with wood glue, dredge with green flock, allow to dry, flood flock with green ink, allow to dry, drybrush "grass" with light green/ yellow/ beige as appropriate.
There may be a reason I take so long to get units finished :)
Quote from: Ithoriel on 17 March 2015, 06:17:15 PM
I apply B&Q flexible filler, let it set, paint it brown (shade varies), coat with thinned down evostick resin wood glue, dredge with sand, when dry flood sand with brown wash, allow to dry, drybrush with a couple of shades of brown/ beige depending on where in the world the figures are supposed to be, paint areas with wood glue, dredge with green flock, allow to dry, flood flock with green ink, allow to dry, drybrush "grass" with light green/ yellow/ beige as appropriate.
Woah! :o
I was rather hoping to deploy these bad boys before I retire :D
Quote from: Ithoriel on 17 March 2015, 06:17:15 PM
There may be a reason I take so long to get units finished :)
Yeah, I think there may be a link ;)
Quote from: getagrip on 17 March 2015, 05:39:34 PM
Good point.
I'd also be interested to see what people use as flock / grit etc.
Will the stuff I use for 10mm be okay?
It should be unless you are going for a desert look ;)
As I found with my 1917 project grain size is very important if you are modelling sandy desert
Silver sand mixed with red sand.
50/50 days atelier pva.
Leave to dry at least 24 hours.
Ink.
Leave 24 hours.
Base coat, dry brush.
Water/PVA mix.
Leave to dry.
Flock and clumps.
Leave to dry
Vanish
Basically basing can take longer than painting troops!
Quote from: Hertsblue on 17 March 2015, 04:41:39 PM
So, what is the best adhesive to hold this stuff? The little tutorial on basing seems to be missing from the Baccus website at the moment. Any ideas?
Yeah. Instructions aren't clear about timescales. My first attempt at the Baccus system had similar results but I now have no problems.
Using a slightly watered down mix of PVA (roughly 2 of PVA, 1 of water but never more than 50/50), I sprinkle the sand on the base, turn the base upside down, give it a gentle tap or two and leave it, usually overnight.
When I apply the ink wash, I dip the brush in the pot to get a generous helping and dab it on, letting it run freely through the sand. I use different size brushes depending on the area to be covered (large for wide areas, thin for getting between figures, etc.).
After leaving it overnight, I then dry brush the base as directed and apply the PVA/water mix again. I then dump a load of static grass on the base, turn the base upside down, give it a couple of taps with my finger, smooth the edges with my finger and again leave overnight. Next day, I get our old hoover out (!) and using the thin nozzle attachment, (very carefully) vacuum off the loose static grass (both this and the upside tapping of the base also helps the grass to stand up). Works fine that way. Next lot of PVA was bought in a DIY shop. I also used some old Humbrol varnish once at the basing material stage and that worked too.
OK, two things since my last post:
1. I've found the Baccus basing tutorial here:
https://www.baccus6mm.com/includes/howto/base6mm.php (https://www.baccus6mm.com/includes/howto/base6mm.php)
2. I've had another go with the Baccus basing material using a different high-tack PVA. This time - success! When sprinkling on the basing material, which is very light and fine, make sure it's embedded well into the PVA. Leave it to dry for an hour or two, then use Westmarcher's technique of dabbing on the base-coat. And Robert's your mother's brother! The Baccus three-shade drybrushing works well, but normal static grass flock is too long for these little fellows and I shall be going over to the made-for-the-job stuff in the near future.
That's really useful Herts :-bd
I have used the Baccus basing system successfully for a long time now, except my initial wash is yellow ochre (dab it on) then a wash of brown magic wash (the floor polish, water, ink mix) before doing the three layer dry brush. I find this gives a slightly lighter finish which makes the figures stand out better.
Just purchased my first Baccus basing pack; will have to see how it pans out ;)
I have found that some things run out faster than others. Fortunately most of the components can be bought separately from Baccus these days. First to go for me was the PVA, then I stopped using the brown wash. Everything else is still going strong after five years.
Didn't realise it came with PVA.
Thought it was paint, sand and flock.
Didn't really look too hard though, just bought on the recommendation. Loads of folk seem to use it though ;)
I know its not 6mm painting, but I was looking through some old emails and found the old Peter Dennis Hard Core design buildings that Tom Dye sent me some years back
If anyone wants them drop me a PM with your email. I think there is about 10 buildings including a chateau
Quote from: Leman on 19 March 2015, 05:44:30 PM
I have found that some things run out faster than others. Fortunately most of the components can be bought separately from Baccus these days. First to go for me was the PVA, then I stopped using the brown wash. Everything else is still going strong after five years.
Me too. Still using the 'replacement' PVA I bought in B&Q but the brown foundation wash is now ready to run out. Baccus want £6.00 for 60 ml. Is there a cheaper alternative that is just as good?
I use the AP strong tone, but the Vallejo Sepia shade wash might do the trick
Any diluted paint based wash will do for basing.
Quote from: Fenton on 19 March 2015, 07:09:27 PM
I use the AP strong tone, but the Vallejo Sepia shade wash might do the trick
I used the Vallojo Brown Shade on my first ones. Seems to work fine.