Many gamers will know me from my interest in 10mm Napoleonic gaming and collecting, especially if they've visited my 1809 Blog that has been on the go now for over three years.
The terrain for Napoleonic games fires my imagination just as much as the miniatures and as a result my interest has been spurred into producing some terrain of my own design.
Inspired by the bicentenary this year, I have been diverted slightly into kicking off with an opening salvo of 1815 Waterloo buildings which, I hope, will suitably complement Pendraken's much-anticipated British and Prussian Napoleonic releases.
I'm making a tentative start with a model of La Belle Alliance – a fortuitous name, hopefully, to launch a new venture! I have attempted in the present model to include as much detail as possible given that it is a laser-cut building and of this scale, basing it on what can be gleamed from contemporary paintings and accounts and not so much on later images and current photographs. I have tried to keep the relative scale of the elevations while reducing the footprint of the building at the same time as trying to maintain the overall 'look' of the original.
While there are many laser-cut buildings being produced for other scales, I hope to do my best to provide gamers with an added reason to game in 10mm.
No price as yet but I'd be interested in knowing your initial thoughts.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/waterloo/SLD-La-Belle-Alliance-01)
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/waterloo/SLD-La-Belle-Alliance-02)
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/waterloo/SLD-La-Belle-Alliance-03)
Excellent little model, Michael. Exactly what's needed. 10mm laser-cut buildings are pretty thin on the ground at the moment.
Very well done Michael.
Not a period I'm currently interested in but if I were ....
What about a 6mm Sumerian temple? :)
Currently working on a 6mm Sumerian dockside ... what have you got on offer for that? :)
Are we talking something like decking on posts or stone sea wall?
As far as miniature buildings are concerned, I'd say I have a very 'untutored' eye......But that looks damn excellent to me, Michael !! :-bd
Cheers - Phil
Since it is intended to represent a dockside along the banks of the Tigris/ Euphrates, or possibly one of the larger canals, I've gone for decking and posts. Housing, trade stalls and an admin building/ storehouse on their way from Leven as I type.
Finally finished my little navy but, since I'm in danger of hijacking your thread and diverting attention from your great building, I'll post something in the non-Pendraken part of the forum later.
I have no real interest in 10mm Napoleonic but can appreciate good work when I see it, and that is a nice little model. Good luck with the rest.
Love it! :-bd
Superb!
Will these be commercially available?
Outstanding! i'll have some please??
Thanks everyone for your comments so far.
Quote from: mad lemmey on 09 March 2015, 04:23:13 PM
Superb!
Will these be commercially available?
Yes, that's the plan. Designs have been based mostly on my own projects so far but I'm happy to know what gamers would like for their wargames projects.
That is an excellent mdf building, not my period but if you ever did any ancients/dark ages/medieval/fantasy then I would be interested.
Quote from: Nosher on 09 March 2015, 04:45:10 PM
Outstanding! i'll have some please??
You certainly can.
Quote from: Bodvoc on 09 March 2015, 04:46:55 PM
That is an excellent mdf building, not my period but if you ever did any ancients/dark ages/medieval/fantasy then I would be interested.
Thanks.
Certainly can. What, particularly, is there a lack of at the moment?
Excellent stuff. About time there was more 10mm MDF.
There seems to be very little in 10mm scenery/buildings 10mm fortifications for a range of periods from biblical upwards (and fantasy too could go down well with Pendrakens new Warband rules, such as a wizards tower, think Orthanc in mdf ). Also a range of generic medieval to renaissance style houses could cover a whole variety of periods. I bet the Sci Fi fans would love some slot together factory and urban ruins. and boats, any period.
Quote from: Bodvoc on 09 March 2015, 05:42:51 PM
There seems to be very little in 10mm scenery/buildings 10mm fortifications for a range of periods from biblical upwards (and fantasy too could go down well with Pendrakens new Warband rules, such as a wizards tower, think Orthanc in mdf ). Also a range of generic medieval to renaissance style houses could cover a whole variety of periods. I bet the Sci Fi fans would love some slot together factory and urban ruins. and boats, any period.
Wizard's tower would get my vote ;)
That looks really good.
Just a thought, do the signs show through when you paint the building?
Can we have a windmill please as no one seems to do one in 10mm
One in the Spanish range Leon does.
Very nice indeed... Please keep up the good work.
Quote from: Just a few Orcs on 09 March 2015, 08:55:24 PM
That looks really good.
Just a thought, do the signs show through when you paint the building?
The lettering is engraved so ink in the cuts should do it. Likewise, if you don't want the lettering, a little filler and it's gone.
Marvellous Micheal
:-bd =D> :-bd =D>
Quote from: Fenton on 09 March 2015, 08:57:35 PM
Can we have a windmill please as no one seems to do one in 10mm
Except, of course, Pendraken, who provide one in the Escenografia range of buildings - and it's ready painted.
That building does look pretty good, but these MDF kits take a lot of putting together - and some companies don't even bother with any instructions on paper or online.
Will you be providing any ready made? Or with instructions at least?
I tend to prefer resin or plastic buildings - a bit more expensive but save a lot of time as they're already in one piece.
But if the MDF buildings were good enough i might buy some - seen some 10mm MDF castles but not really impressed with them - think they could probably be done better.
The Sally 4th ones for instance (http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/epages/950003459.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950003459/Categories/10mm_Model_Castle_Kits) look to me like they're shouting "I am made of cardboard" even when pre-painted. Not sure if that's just because they could be done better, or due to the limits of MDF on its own as a material.
Kallistra and The Baggage train do some 10mm castles and saxon and Roman forts that aren't bad, but a wider range of fantasy and medieval fortifications and buildings would be nice.
Quote from: Dunnadd on 10 March 2015, 07:18:14 PM
That building does look pretty good, but these MDF kits take a lot of putting together - and some companies don't even bother with any instructions on paper or online.
Will you be providing any ready made? Or with instructions at least?
I tend to prefer resin or plastic buildings - a bit more expensive but save a lot of time as they're already in one piece.
But if the MDF buildings were good enough i might buy some - seen some 10mm MDF castles but not really impressed with them - think they could probably be done better.
The Sally 4th ones for instance (http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/epages/950003459.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950003459/Categories/10mm_Model_Castle_Kits) look to me like they're shouting "I am made of cardboard" even when pre-painted. Not sure if that's just because they could be done better, or due to the limits of MDF on its own as a material.
Kallistra and The Baggage train do some 10mm castles and saxon and Roman forts that aren't bad, but a wider range of fantasy and medieval fortifications and buildings would be nice.
Dunnadd
Thanks! They do take a bit of happy gluing time. I'm used to making my own stuff in card so it seems to me a great saving in time not to have to measure and cut everything! Fear not, I shall be providing instructions and support online when I get a new website up and running. Like all materials, MDF and the other sheet materials that laser machines can cut have their limitations. I hope to push the possibilities but there is a reason why small-scale laser-cut buildings are not as well-represented in the market as the larger scales: because they can be very fiddly. Hopefully gamers will agree that the assembly time is worth the effort!
I'll be posting more pics. Hopefully you'll be tempted!
Cheers, Michael
I do like the look of this building, good stuff.
It does look a lot smarter than the drawing of the original! Not that bothers me, as I wouldn't be using it in its historical setting.
MDF buildings take a bit of putting together - but this one looks like 2 basic boxes, so should go together well. One thing that I really like on the Sarrisa buildings (and some of the ones sold by Leon) is that they include laser cut card board parts, that add detailing, and help break up the 'flat wall of MDF' look.
Quote from: WeeWars on 10 March 2015, 08:28:45 PM
Dunnadd
Thanks! They do take a bit of happy gluing time. I'm used to making my own stuff in card so it seems to me a great saving in time not to have to measure and cut everything! Fear not, I shall be providing instructions and support online when I get a new website up and running. Like all materials, MDF and the other sheet materials that laser machines can cut have their limitations. I hope to push the possibilities but there is a reason why small-scale laser-cut buildings are not as well-represented in the market as the larger scales: because they can be very fiddly. Hopefully gamers will agree that the assembly time is worth the effort!
I'll be posting more pics. Hopefully you'll be tempted!
Cheers, Michael
Happy to put things together, its the cutting out accurately that I hate.
Quote from: fred 12df on 10 March 2015, 08:38:16 PM
One thing that I really like on the Sarrisa buildings (and some of the ones sold by Leon) is that they include laser cut card board parts, that add detailing, and help break up the 'flat wall of MDF' look.
It's the same board I've been using. However, since we're dealing with a smaller scale I've ordered some very thin plywood to experiment with.
Would the laser machine cut heavy paper or thin cardboard ?
You could do the detailing with this material then.
Quote from: barbarian on 11 March 2015, 08:30:22 AM
Would the laser machine cut heavy paper or thin cardboard ?
You could do the detailing with this material then.
Yes, it can. All the less than 2mm parts including the roof of the model are cardboard.
Here's something that as a gamer I've been wanting for some time. I prefer to cram as many building models as possible into a village or town. I'm not a fan of mixing scales of buildings and figures but I can appreciate why other gamers do it. One alternative is small footprint buildings. I'm experimenting here with very small footprint buildings. These 10mm houses each have a footprint of only 20 x 40mm.
There is no set way of assembling the models. The walls are interchangeable – although it seems appropriate that each building has a door, a chimney and at least one window! There are two extensions with lean-to roofs that can be fixed to any blank wall and a bake-house type chimney for one of them. The three buildings should provide a good deal of variety.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/north-european/NE-Dwellings-01)
You interest me strangely, Sir.
Quote from: fsn on 11 March 2015, 01:22:19 PM
You interest me strangely, Sir.
Hopefully my work rather than me personally. :)
Any price tag yet ?
I may be interested depending on the price.
No prices as yet. These three buildings would come as a set. I'm interested to know what forum members think would be a suitable price based on other 10mm buildings.
I think those buildings would be even better (and more versatile) if they came with optional shutters for the windows - thinking France, Spain, Italy and so on. I would definitely be up for that.
Shutters will be added as soon as the ultra thin plywood supplies arrive next week. :)
Will definitely get a set then.
I think the idea of walls and outhouses that can be shuffled about to create different varieties of building is one worth exploring and possibly extending. My only reservation at the moment (as it is with all laser-cut buildings) is how they can be made to blend in with my stock of existing resin-cast buildings. I have one friend who has totally disposed of all his resin-cast stock in order to use only laser-cut items. And the reason I know is that he disposed of them to me!
Quote from: Hertsblue on 11 March 2015, 03:24:55 PM
I think the idea of walls and outhouses that can be shuffled about to create different varieties of building is one worth exploring and possibly extending. My only reservation at the moment (as it is with all laser-cut buildings) is how they can be made to blend in with my stock of existing resin-cast buildings. I have one friend who has totally disposed of all his resin-cast stock in order to use only laser-cut items. And the reason I know is that he disposed of them to me!
I agree that blending one type with another is sometimes hard. To be honest, I find that different manufacturer's buildings even in the same material can be hard to use together. For my own 1809 project, I think I have at least three different Essling villages! I think one way of using laser-cut models together with resin is to be artistic with filler/modelling paste on the flat areas of the laser-cut models, even just adding a simple brush over of filler to catch a drybrush highlight. But I don't mind the idea of a tabletop covered with laser-cut models. :D I hope to be able to produce enough to allow gamers to do just that. :)
Quote from: WeeWars on 11 March 2015, 01:17:04 PM
Here's something that as a gamer I've been wanting for some time. I prefer to cram as many building models as possible into a village or town. I'm not a fan of mixing scales of buildings and figures but I can appreciate why other gamers do it. One alternative is small footprint buildings. I'm experimenting here with very small footprint buildings. These 10mm houses each have a footprint of only 20 x 40mm.
There is no set way of assembling the models. The walls are interchangeable – although it seems appropriate that each building has a door, a chimney and at least one window! There are two extensions with lean-to roofs that can be fixed to any blank wall and a bake-house type chimney for one of them. The three buildings should provide a good deal of variety.
Cheers, Michael
Now I do like them... :)
I have no use for them (yet)... What about fortifications, middle ages and Middle eastern?
Loving those Michael :-bd
Toptastic Michael!
Quote from: Maenoferren on 11 March 2015, 04:01:26 PM
Now I do like them... :)
I have no use for them (yet)... What about fortifications, middle ages and Middle eastern?
It's all possible. :)
I have a pair of Middle East dwellings done but I'm awaiting a delivery of plywood material as pulpboard has proved to be too weak for the smallest pieces.
Where is this stuff going to be advertised?
I plan to create a new website to advertise the models for sale and include instructions for building them as well as show what I'm working on.
As long as it doesn't get in the way of Esseling!
I haven't esselled for ages.
I've esselled at least three times.
Quote from: WeeWars on 11 March 2015, 05:25:06 PM
It's all possible. :)
I have a pair of Middle East dwellings done but I'm awaiting a delivery of plywood material as pulpboard has proved to be too weak for the smallest pieces.
Most excellent.
Who doesn't like a Gothic ruin? I did this as a little experiment today, inspired by a photograph in a book on German buildings. It has a pretty small footprint of only 27 x 39mm – small enough to embellish a Warband base, perhaps! I'm going to wash a bit of filler over it and see what it looks like.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/gothic/Gothic-Ruin-01)
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/gothic/Gothic-Ruin-02)
Marvellous Micheal :-bd =D> :-bd
Stalingrad, here I come.
What kind of file do you need as I always wanted to design some buildings ?
What size are your material ( 2mm...) ?
As your blog, it's an impressive work. I would be interested by Napoleonic period 1/600 to 1/1 000 scale footprint buildings to add to my maps. I will follow the evolution of your project.
Quote from: WeeWars on 11 March 2015, 11:57:53 PM
Who doesn't like a Gothic ruin? I did this as a little experiment today, inspired by a photograph in a book on German buildings. It has a pretty small footprint of only 27 x 39mm – small enough to embellish a Warband base, perhaps! I'm going to wash a bit of filler over it and see what it looks like.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/gothic/Gothic-Ruin-01)
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/gothic/Gothic-Ruin-02)
It doesn't look anything like fsn....
;D ;D ;D ;D
Well.....I'm VERY impressed ! 8)
Cheers - Phil
Some of this stuff shure is purty... 8)
Quote from: barbarian on 12 March 2015, 07:04:38 AM
Stalingrad, here I come.
What kind of file do you need as I always wanted to design some buildings ?
What size are your material ( 2mm...) ?
Yes, I can provide 2mm MDF. Bear in mind that what is quoted as 2mm, 3mm is in fact imperial size and all slightly larger - this includes all your MDF bases! For example 3mm is in fact 3.2mm. This doesn't usually make a difference but in small scale there is a chance it will - if you deal in multiples, for example.
I'm not stuck with a particular kind of file as I 'print' direct from my drawing programme. What programme do you use to create your artwork?
Illustrator.
.ai
.pdf
.eps
.dwg
?
Okay, that's on my to buy list! :)
Quote from: barbarian on 12 March 2015, 12:44:06 PM
Illustrator.
.ai
.pdf
.eps
.dwg
?
As an Adobe Junky I use Illustrator, too, so ai files are fine. Google "using Illustrator for laser cutting" and you'll get an idea of how you have to prepare your drawings.
This wooden trestle bridge is designed as a stand-alone bridge for 10mm miniatures (although scale applies in this case mainly to the size of the handrail and it could, possibly, be used for other scales). It will come with an alternative 'ruined' section. It has been designed to accommodate miniatures on 20mm wide bases between the handrails. It is possible to support wider bases on the handrails, if desired.
I would like to make this model available ASAP – it was designed (as Leon knows) a very long time ago – but first I have a question for the forum. The supports have some necessarily delicate areas that might easily break. This is just in the supports not the handrail, which appears sound. All should be okay if the model is glued securely before any part is given any chance to break. The model should be fine if it is fixed securely to a base.
My question is related to how you represent your rivers in your games. I could provide a base and extend the supports to fit in the base thus providing a more robust structure. This, however, wouldn't satisfy gamers who would rather have a model that can be used on a flat surface or their own base. I could keep the model as it is and provide an optional base without any fixings. Alternatively if not based, the model should be treated on the tabletop like any delicate assembled kit.
Any thoughts?
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/bridges/Wooden-Trestle-Bridge-01)
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/bridges/Wooden-Trestle-Bridge-02)
All of this stuff looks really good and the bridge is something I might want for current projects, depending on price, as for the others ... who knows where my butterfly interests may land in future!
Quote from: Le Manchou on 12 March 2015, 09:32:57 AM
As your blog, it's an impressive work. I would be interested by Napoleonic period 1/600 to 1/1 000 scale footprint buildings to add to my maps. I will follow the evolution of your project.
That sounds like
A New Range of 2/3mm Buildings! Yes, it's possible. I'll give it a try. I'd imagine they would need to be sold not by the building but by the village! Which part of Europe are you thinking of?
Quote from: Ithoriel on 12 March 2015, 01:15:57 PM
All of this stuff looks really good and the bridge is something I might want for current projects, depending on price, as for the others ... who knows where my butterfly interests may land in future!
Buy me a nice latte in town and that model's yours.
:o :o :o :o
How fast are you making these, Michael ?
Absolutely astounding !
Cheers - Phil
I'd probably settle for fixing the bridge to a base of my on as I have an extensive S&A river system.
Love the bridge; I'd buy one ;)
I would fix it to a base!
It's fab!
Seems fair to have two different trestle bridge versions: one with plugs and a base and one without plugs and no base.
As your blog, it's an impressive work. I would be interested by Napoleonic period 1/600 to 1/1 000 scale footprint buildings to add to my maps. I will follow the evolution of your project.
That sounds like A New Range of 2/3mm Buildings! Yes, it's possible. I'll give it a try. I'd imagine they would need to be sold not by the building but by the village! Which part of Europe are you thinking of?
Well, special buildings like the Granary at Essling, Hougoumont, etc... and a range of houses, farms and churches from Germany, Austria, Spain, Russia, Italy...
Hello WeeWars
Very interesting stuff. I've been looking through what's available in laser cut models from Aliexpress to see what I can use but unfortunately it's mainly 1/100 to 1/72 in size:-
(http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/32237905480/-Alice-wooden-model-small-cute-font-b-houses-b-font-font-b-courtyard-b-font.jpg_220x220.jpg)(http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/32237975369/-Alice-wooden-model-The-ancient-Chinese-Hotel-font-b-houses-b-font-font-b-courtyard.jpg_220x220.jpg)(http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/32238432570/-Alice-wooden-model-font-b-houses-b-font-are-built-on-chopstick-like-stilts-font.jpg_220x220.jpg)(http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/32271361054_1/New-DIY-Beijing-s-font-b-Courtyard-b-font-House-Model-Intelligent-Toy-3D-Building-Model.jpg_220x220.jpg)
The last is listed as 32cm x 22cm base size, more 1/100 than 1/144 (curses)
Some are marked as 1/144 or 1/148:-
(http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/32245729758_1/new-arrival-2014-chinese-font-b-ancient-b-font-theater-tea-house-silk-warehouse-Inn-building.jpg_220x220.jpg)
(http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v1/2024230459_1/SC-1-148-Laser-cut-wooden-sail-ship-model-Ancient-Chinese-Sail-boat-Green-Eyebrows-of.jpg_220x220.jpg)
I have the 1/148 junk in my build pile but the railings aren't as easy as your bridge, they are separate pieces that have to be cut and assembled :o :o and the hull sides are cut using the same template (ie not reversed) so only the starboard side has any decoration when assembled :'( :'( .
Good luck with the venture and I'll keep your site under observation when it gets going.
Cheers
GrumpyOldMan
Quote from: Le Manchou on 12 March 2015, 10:15:16 PM
Well, special buildings like the Granary at Essling, Hougoumont, etc... and a range of houses, farms and churches from Germany, Austria, Spain, Russia, Italy...
I'm already doing some of them in 10mm. We can't tempt you into 10mm Naps? :D
I did a trial today to see what a small house might look like in 3mm. Shall keep you posted.
Quote from: GrumpyOldMan on 12 March 2015, 11:17:54 PM
Good luck with the venture and I'll keep your site under observation when it gets going.
Thanks! How do you feel about 10mm boats made with ultra-thin plywood wrapped around an MDF skeleton? Does that sound robust enough?
Very nice work.
I image you've got quite a list of projects, any chance some Roman and/or Celt type buildings might be on there?
Hello
Quote from: WeeWars on 12 March 2015, 11:41:31 PM
Thanks! How do you feel about 10mm boats made with ultra-thin plywood wrapped around an MDF skeleton? Does that sound robust enough?
That is the method they've used with the junk. The cross section ribs and internal bracing are done with 2mm and the rest with 1mm. Glued with PVA the hull was able to be cut at the waterline without dissolving into tiny splinters (my fear at that point X_X )
I've attached some scans from the kit as received. Sheet A and D are in 2mm. The fine parts from sheet B are meant to be for the railing and stiffeners for the material sails (also precut by laser interestingly).
(Curse this Preview button)
Cheers
GrumpyOldMan
Quote from: GrumpyOldMan on 13 March 2015, 12:19:08 AM
I've attached some scans from the kit as received. Sheet A and D are in 2mm. The fine parts from sheet B are meant to be for the railing and stiffeners for the material sails (also precut by laser interestingly).
Thanks for this. I'll give it a try when the plywood arrives to see how robust it is.
Quote from: Ken on 13 March 2015, 12:06:07 AM
Very nice work.
I image you've got quite a list of projects, any chance some Roman and/or Celt type buildings might be on there?
Definitely Roman – they loved their straight lines! I went to a lecture on Vindolanda on Monday and was reminded that the Roman soldiers got into trouble for growing their veg on the rampart mounds of the fort. Now, that is worth modelling!
Celts, more of a problem. They did like their round houses. But last week I saw some 3D modelling of the latest research into the Northern Picts. The dwellings did look decidedly square. I am following that up.
Cheers, Michael
The Romans did encourage the growth of blackberries on the ramparts too, the excavated ramparts often have bramble roots all over them.
Late summer harvest? :)
I think my inspiration could be that (its 1/285) :
https://arkiegamer.wordpress.com/2014/05/19/turning-point-stalingrad-better-than-cats/
So...
-Residential one floor buildings
-Residential 5-6 stoors buildings
-Factory
-Maybe the Grain Silo
-Maybe oil tank (tricky as they are cylinder sections.)
And one ton of rubble.
My bases for my minis are 25mm x 50mm, I need at least 30mm x 60mm buildings, since I want them to fit in there.
OR, I could do them smaller, and make some big bases (at least 100mm x 100mm but surely biggers too) to accomodate the bases of minis and "respect" the rules of BKC II
:-\
For the residential one floor, I could use a variation of the houses you made for the Napoleonic era.
I'll need to design the tall buildings.
Quote from: Le Manchou on 12 March 2015, 09:32:57 AM
As your blog, it's an impressive work. I would be interested by Napoleonic period 1/600 to 1/1 000 scale footprint buildings to add to my maps. I will follow the evolution of your project.
Look! A 3mm Village! :D
Le Manchou, Is this the sort of thing you were thinking of?
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/3mm/3mm-NE01.jpg)
The doors are 3mm high.
The church is based on Plancenoit Church. And there's a gate house. I experimented, also, with chimneys and walls. Chimneys, I think, should only be included on the bigger houses, otherwise they look a tad too big.
I have attempted to keep the gluing of the model pieces as simple as possible. I think it helps that all the buildings are solid, making it easier to press them together. I could do the roofs in less sections with a thicker material but I purposefully used the material I did to break up the roof surfaces. I prefer the uneven result.
Any thoughts?
Cheers, Michael
I think they would go great with 6mm, although would prefer terracotta roofing colour.
Quote from: Leman on 13 March 2015, 01:44:34 PM
I think they would go great with 6mm, although would prefer terracotta roofing colour.
The colour is up to you. :D
To give a sense of scale, here's a pic of the 3mm buildings with a 10mm mini.
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/3mm/NE02.jpg)
Dear Lord they're small. :o
Amazes me what people can do with las-cutters. :)
Good grief !! :o
Cheers - Phil
Cripes!
They really would look good with 6mm. Just the job for BBB.
Marvellous Michael as always :-bd =D> :-bd
Very tasty!
Impressed :)
They are great but too small. My problem, as with many of you I suppose, is to get an accurate footprint as I wargame on detailed maps. In the Magenta game, Pascal did for me the perfect balance where one building represents several buildings but small enough to get the impression of a village and not a hamlet. When it comes to individual buildings, the problem gets bigger. For example, the château of Hougoumont is roughly a 7cm per 4 rectangle at a 1/1000 scale.
Sebastien
I'm a little confused. Do you mean that they are too big rather than too small? They are to-scale for 3mm figures. If you need a smaller scale or models for a particular footprint, you'll have to arm me more detail of your requirements.
Personally the compromise I might go for if I was doing a similar project would be to go for 50mm-base elements for built-up areas/farms with buildings in the same scale as the miniatures. Game wise, these can simply be for eye-candy/terrain reference. Where building models take up more space than their mapped area, simply shunt their base around when troops need to stand there.
Cheers, Michael
Well, it's not simple anyway. For particular buildings, like the granary of Essling or Hougoumont, it might be a solution to distort their height (make them taller but keeping the acurate footprint) to make them more compatible with 10mm miniatures.
Quote from: Le Manchou on 14 March 2015, 01:50:25 PM
Well, it's not simple anyway. For particular buildings, like the granary of Essling or Hougoumont, it might be a solution to distort their height (make them taller but keeping the acurate footprint) to make them more compatible with 10mm miniatures.
For me it's not the size that matters particularly; it's the effect. We all know how significant Hougoumont was so, if you want an area to be
that important, keep it to scale but mod the rules to recreate it's effect.
I've been experimenting some more with 3mm buildings and the beginnings of a La Haye Sainte.
Cheers,Michael
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/3mm/LHS-01)
:x
Oh wow, that's brilliant =D>
Very nice!
Flipping heck that is rather fab.
:-bd =D> :-bd =D> :-bd
Marvellously marvolous Michael =D> =D> =D>
For goodness sake !! :o
Brilliant !
Cheers - Phil
Superb!
Really impressive.
Excellent work, Michael. And I thought 10mm was pushing it for laser-cut buildings!
Thank you, gentlemen!
Quote from: Hertsblue on 16 March 2015, 09:24:18 AM
Excellent work, Michael. And I thought 10mm was pushing it for laser-cut buildings!
So I was led to believe – before I got my hands on a machine. Of course there are compromises to be made and not to everyone's taste.
Quote from: WeeWars on 16 March 2015, 10:27:02 AM
So I was led to believe – before I got my hands on a machine. Of course there are compromises to be made and not to everyone's taste.
We've got one at work which I have access to; the real difficulty is programming what you want.
Bit of trial and error for me at least :)
That 3mm scaled wall looks really good. I think it is because you have created a lot of detail with the doors and the exposed brickwork, and along the top of the wall too.
The most common complaint against MDF stuff is that it all looks flat - and you seem to have done a good job of making this look not flat.
Looking forward to see what else you produce.
Regarding the earlier discussions around footprint vs height of buildings - I have played around with this a bit, and it seems possible to reduce the footprint a fair degree, while keeping the height correct, and still have the building look OK. I made a template for a cardboard version of the milk factory building near Arnhem bridge, as it had an enclosed court yard on 3 sides so was hard to find standard buildings to use. With this I dropped the footprint to about 1/300 while keeping the vertical heights to 1/150. If this is of interest I can find the files.
Interesting Fred. So, it seems that a good compromise is to double the height. It would be on my 1/1 000 Scale maps a 1/600 footprint building with a 1/300 height. Magenta game was at 1/4 000 scale hence the buildings representing several houses.
Well, smack my gob! :o Very effective and convincing reproduction, Michael. :-bd
Any compromises you've made are hardly discernible. It really does give the viewer a good impression of that side of the actual farm complex.*
[fred 12df - if Michael doesn't mind, I for one would be interested to see how the 1/300 ground scale looks vs. the 1/150 height scale.]
*of course, some nerd will point out that the gate was used for firewood the night before .... am I being that nerd? :-B ...... I'll get my coat ....
Fred
Certainly, all plans and elevations are of interest and will be gratefully received.
To scale with 3mm figures, the frontage of La Haye Sainte complete with a small portion of orchard and most of the garden would extend to 200mm. My LHS is set to sit on a 60 x 40mm base.
I mentioned in reply to Ray that my answer to flat walls is to cover them with a slight wash of filler. This is one reason why I don't see the value in paying extra for MDF kits with pre-painted flat walls. The buildings I scratch-built for my WW1 project are basically flat-walled covered in filler. Of course, it took ages to measure and cut the card to make the buildings. I'm a much happier modeller now with laser-cut card and MDF!
Here's the same Gothic Ruin laser-cut model seen earlier in this topic with a splash of filler and painted – using the MDF 'bricks' as fallen debris.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/gothic/Gothic-Ruin-03)
That I superb; you would never know it's las-cut =D>
Quote from: Westmarcher on 16 March 2015, 01:20:16 PM
Any compromises you've made are hardly discernible. It really does give the viewer a good impression of that side of the actual farm complex.*
*of course, some nerd will point out that the gate was used for firewood the night before .... am I being that nerd? :-B ...... I'll get my coat ....
You needn't get your coat. You're right about a door but it wasn't the front gate. It was the west door of the barn. That entrance in my model will be open, as you say, without a door.
Quote from: Westmarcher on 16 March 2015, 01:20:16 PM
[fred 12df - if Michael doesn't mind, I for one would be interested to see how the 1/300 ground scale looks vs. the 1/150 height scale.]
I don't mind at all. Now, where's the smiley with the halo over its head. Oh, yes, here it is. O:-)
I think this is now appropriate.
(http://m.quickmeme.com/img/79/79af6b3bc5b23131ace1d835c402fa444ebd7cfc574c6b040665280337e74d7e.jpg)
Quote from: WeeWars on 16 March 2015, 01:56:30 PM
You needn't get your coat. You're right about a door but it wasn't the front gate. It was the west door of the barn. That entrance in my model will be open, as you say, without a door.
Well, smack my gob again! :-bd
Wow, and what a great tip about filler.
Quote from: Leman on 16 March 2015, 05:14:31 PM
Wow, and what a great tip about filler.
You're basically rendering your MDF buildings! MDF can initially resist filler so it can be an idea to spread a drop of water on the MDF ahead of the filler – it's a filler, after all, not a render. Alternatively, you might prefer a fine sand acrylic texture gel/medium like W&N and Liquitex sell – more expensive but with more gripping power because it's designed to be spread not designed to fill gaps.
Quote from: WeeWars on 16 March 2015, 01:51:45 PM
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/gothic/Gothic-Ruin-03)
:o :o :o :o :o
Marvellously marvellously marvellous :-bd =D> :-bd =D> :-bd =D>
Those gothic ruins have come out very well - I think the best compliment is to say they don't look like MDF! My gaming group is getting into Epic Armageddon in a big way again, and lots of ruins like these would go down very well.
In looking for the milk factory from Arnhem, I realised that it is already posted on my website - its at the bottom of this page http://www.kerynne.com/games/ArnhemBridge.html
The last photo gives has building in it - just in front of the bridge, to the left side (it has 2 of the roofs removed, and a stand of paras on top). It is less of a courtyard than I remember, its just 2 full sides and a small side.
The plans have brick texture and windows already added - so it is a little hard to see the fold lines. Also I didn't bother adding tabs to the drawings, for some reason, so it might take a bit of working out to see what goes where. So this is probably only about 75% finished - you should be able to work it out, but shout if its not obvious, and I will find the constructed building I have and check out how it goes together, as it was a number of years ago I made this, and I'm now struggling to remember quite how it goes together.
It's for larger scales, but I've found a mix of sand, PVA and a spot of water to mix it glo ops on really really well and looks like daub rather nicely!
Quote from: fred 12df on 16 March 2015, 09:14:12 PM
Those gothic ruins have come out very well - I think the best compliment is to say they don't look like MDF! My gaming group is getting into Epic Armageddon in a big way again, and lots of ruins like these would go down very well.
For Epic, what about taller, more exaggerated columns?
What do you reckon on the columns that came with the starter box?
I don't know Arnhem that well. Is the milk factory an iconic building of the battle?
'The ruins' look terrific, Michael !
Cheers - Phil.
I have a file to sent to you.
;)
Quote from: WeeWars on 17 March 2015, 12:47:49 AM
For Epic, what about taller, more exaggerated columns?
What do you reckon on the columns that came with the starter box?
Taller might be good - it's hard to tell the size of these on their own.
Quote from: WeeWars on 17 March 2015, 12:47:49 AM
I don't know Arnhem that well. Is the milk factory an iconic building of the battle?
I don't think I'd go as far as iconic. But it is one of the key buildings near the bridge. I made it as I didn't think I'd be able to find a commercial one of similar shape and size. The more iconic buildings are the double gable roofed houses, often 3 floors tall.
Here's Placenoit Church again, this time with some changes to the design.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.michaelscott.name/sl-designs/3mm/Placenoit-Church-02.jpg)
Wow!
That really is jolly good. =D>
Very nice, Wee Wars. :) (by the way, what is the kind of 'filler' referred to earlier?)
Interesting result with the 'milk factory' fred - thanks for posting (got me thinking now ....).
Quote from: Westmarcher on 17 March 2015, 01:10:18 PM
Very nice, Wee Wars. :) (by the way, what is the kind of 'filler' referred to earlier?)
I prefer a rough-textured filler for groundwork/rubble.
http://www.michaelscott.name/ww1/ww1blog/ww1blogpost0028.htm (http://www.michaelscott.name/ww1/ww1blog/ww1blogpost0028.htm)
For that reason I stay away from wall fillers that are designed to give a smooth finish. I prefer coloured tiling grouts. These are designed to be tough and gritty. My favourite colour is dark brown but it appears the colour is no longer produced. :'(
For easier application to give MDF a hint of texture, it seems more appropriate to use a textured gel/medium that is designed to adhere to the vertical rather than designed as a gap filler. For small scale models, fine sand rather than pumice texture seems more appropriate.
I am interested, what do you plan, to propose a Waterloo set, a Borodino set, etc...?
Quote from: Le Manchou on 17 March 2015, 01:32:39 PM
I am interested, what do you plan, to propose a Waterloo set, a Borodino set, etc...?
To begin with, I plan to produce enough buildings for the centre and eastern flank of a 3mm Waterloo. Thanks to you I have discovered that 3mm is a good testing ground for up-scaling!
Superb
Extraordinary !.....In a WOW way. :-bd =D>
Of course....What Michael isn't telling us, is that the grid behind his fingers is actually one metre square.....and his fingers are huge !!
Seriously.....SO impressed with that !
Cheers - Phil
Quote from: Westmarcher on 17 March 2015, 01:10:18 PM
Very nice, Wee Wars. :) (by the way, what is the kind of 'filler' referred to earlier?)
I've ordered some of this to experiment with as it's nice and cheap:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00972HQNG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00972HQNG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00)
Pebeo apparently sells sand texture gel in four colours.
It says to apply with a knife but I assume you could use a brush? :-\
I would have thought only to 'finish' and neaten, Gareth :-\....But Michael's going to be the one to say "Yay or nay" here, I think.
Cheers - Phil
Pebeo is a new name to me but they have a vast range of media.
http://en.pebeo.com/Pebeo (http://en.pebeo.com/Pebeo)
When they say knife they mean a palette knife so they're referring to trowelling the paste on with a painter's trowel/knife or shapers tool rather than using a brush. Like most gamers, I imagine, I use a cocktail stick for small areas, a palette knife for large areas and a shaping tool to smooth off the edges.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LONG-TROWEL-LJT-3P-ARTIST-STAINLESS-STEEL-PALETTE-KNIFE-PAINTING-KNIVES-OIL-ART-/390609622285?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5af225d50d (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LONG-TROWEL-LJT-3P-ARTIST-STAINLESS-STEEL-PALETTE-KNIFE-PAINTING-KNIVES-OIL-ART-/390609622285?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5af225d50d)
Quote from: WeeWars on 18 March 2015, 11:28:08 PM
I've ordered some of this to experiment with as it's nice and cheap:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00972HQNG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00972HQNG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00)
Pebeo apparently sells sand texture gel in four colours.
On using it, I can't recommend the Pebeo Black Sand Texture Gel as an all-purpose filler/paste – although it does a good job of modelling small-scale ivy up a wall.
However, I picked up a pot of DecoArt Media Texture Sand Paste and it appears to be perfect for texturing small scale building models.
Cheers, Michael
Hello
It's wonderfull. In France there is an expression which says "Je saigne des yeux tellement c'est beau" If I translate into English that gives " I bleed eyes so much it is beautiful "
I do not know if you understand the sense of this expression
Indeed. We say something similar.
I have designed a 3mm (1:600) model of a Waterloo battlefield building intended to be Decoster's house, a small inn that stood on the roadside between La Belle Alliance and Rossomme Farm. After hostilities, Decoster himself claimed to have been Napoleon's guide during the battle, which earned him much, perhaps unmerited, praise from visitors to the battlefield.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap3mm/Decoster-House-01-480)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap3mm/Decoster-House-02-480)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap3mm/Decoster-House-03-480)
My model of Decoster's House stands on a 20mm square base. It marks the latest redesign of my 3mm Waterloo buildings.
I contemplated raising all the models by 1mm at their base to accommodate a 1mm layer of texture base paste. This is still possible if it is preferred. Decoster's House in the photographs does not have this and it wasn't a problem swirling paste around the glued-down model – but care had to be taken at doorways.
I'm rather pleased with the timber outhouse as it is probably one of the smallest buildings that I'll attempt in 1:600. Also, designing any sort of timber house in this scale is rather daunting. I designed it to face inwards, towards the courtyard, but decided to glue mine down with the main detail facing outwards.
The plan is to sell this house as part of a set with Rossomme Farm and Planceloit Church and Village.
Cheers, Michael
Marvolously marvolous, as always Michael :-bd =D> :-bd =D> :-bd =D>
Superb Michael!
Brilliant! :-bd...again!
I'm not jealous... Much! >:( ;) :D
Good grief ! =D> =D>
Cheers - Phil
Excellent Michael. I'd have them as I have just started a 3mm Napoleonic collection.
Thank you, gentlemen!
Rossomme Farm in 3mm on a 30 x 30mm base.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap3mm/Rossomme-Farm-01.jpg)
Cheers, Michael
How good is that?
=D> =D> =D>
Yes indeed!
Very nice, how many pieces is it made from? Is it a kind of jigsaw, or just layers?
It's only when you see the thickness of the base the you realise how small the buildings are.
He's just showing off now !!
Those are absolutely belting, Michael !
Cheers - Phil.
Those are awesome! Really nice work :o
Very nice
If you would like to advertise them on the 3mm yahoo group then please feel free
There is also a nice 3mm fb group as well
Superb
Thanks, gents!
Quote from: fred 12df on 02 April 2015, 03:34:51 PM
Very nice, how many pieces is it made from? Is it a kind of jigsaw, or just layers?
It's only when you see the thickness of the base the you realise how small the buildings are.
Rossomme Farm is made up of 36 pieces, mostly the roof sections that give the models the tiled look.
I opted for my original plan to make the buildings solid and without the plugs associated with MDF buildings – so, yes, they're made of layers. Being solid, they're easier to squeeze together when gluing.
Quote from: Fenton on 02 April 2015, 04:10:57 PM
Very nice
If you would like to advertise them on the 3mm yahoo group then please feel free
There is also a nice 3mm fb group as well
Those are very good ideas. I will make sure I do when my website is set up for ordering.
Cheers, Michael
:-bd =D> :-bd =D> :-bd =D> :-bd
Thanks, Paul!
Here's a pic of my new 3mm La Belle Alliance next to my 10mm model of the same.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap3mm/LaBelleAlliance-3&10mm-480.jpg)
Cheers, Michael
Man alive, that's a big difference! :o
Don't do 3mm so have never seen the comparison.
I have completed my first 3mm Waterloo pack. It's made up of La Belle Alliance on a 30mm square base, Rossomme Farm also on a 30mm square base, and Decoster's House on a 20mm square base. The three building complexes all stood on the main Brussels-Charleroi road that bisected the battlefield.
The kits comes flat-packed as a single sheet containing 81 pieces.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap3mm/LaBelleAlliance-3mm-01.jpg)
Before I put a price on this pack, I'm interested in knowing how much forum members think is a fair price to pay.
Cheers, Michael
Presumably you will need to take into account cost of laser cutter, electricity used, materials, intellectual cost and some profit, divided by the number you are likely to sell. I would certainly be interested.
So when do we get to buy them then????
Shut up and take my money!!!!!!!!!!
I was thinking £3.50-£4.00.
That sounds remarkably reasonable.
Call it £5 for cash!
I'd say 5-6.
IanS
I'd say £4-£5.
It's not a lot of "product" but an awful lot of design and laser time. :-\
And think of the time a purchaser would save, if he or she tried to produce something like that, from scratch.
Cheers - Phil.
Several hours with monopoly houses....
Anyone got any spare.......
IanS
Quote from: Techno on 05 April 2015, 12:55:18 PM
And think of the time a purchaser would save, if he or she tried to produce something like that, from scratch.
Cheers - Phil.
For sure, although I wouldn't even attempt it. Mine would look like cr@p anyway! :'(
Thanks for the numbers. It really is very helpful. There's not a lot of 3mm stuff to compare prices but Total Battle do a few beautiful resin (50mm square?) tiles for a fiver each. While at the same time, a postcard sized MDF sheet of 28mm add-ons can cost a whole lot more.
Unfortunately, I'm back to the drawing board once more as I have decided (on new information – I don't have any 3mm figures as yet) to increase door height to 4mm. This means lots more redesigning. But, hopefully, this will prove to be the final design that works better with 3mm figures (that are actually 4mm) and with 6mm for gamers who want smaller scale buildings.
Cheers, Michael
At that price I would certainly be interested if you do any for Russia in 1812 :)
I would be using them with 6mm so the extra 1mm would be useful for me
Here's a pic of my 1:600 La Haye Sainte. Because of the corner where the eaves come together, the stables have to have either a card roof or the gap in the corner of the solid roof has to be finished off with filler. To maintain the roof design and because the model's so small, I've gone with the filler option. The holes in the base are there for cocktail-stick orchard trees.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap3mm/LaHayeSainte-3mm-01-480.jpg)
The terrain bases with the wavy edges will be available to order on my new website soon.
Cheers, Michael
Looks really very good.
That really is fantastic. =D>
Excellent work Michael, amazing detail.
kev
These would work fab for blucher
Might be worth approaching Sam on the honour forum to flag these up their
Thanks, gentlemen!
@Nosher That's a good idea, thanks!
Absolutely wonderful !
Cheers - Phil
Quote from: Bodvoc on 09 March 2015, 05:42:51 PM
There seems to be very little in 10mm scenery/buildings 10mm fortifications for a range of periods from biblical upwards (and fantasy too could go down well with Pendrakens new Warband rules, such as a wizards tower, think Orthanc in mdf ).
Quote from: getagrip on 09 March 2015, 07:04:39 PM
Wizard's tower would get my vote
I have designed a 10mm wizard's tower as suggested by members of the forum. It's 140mm high and is 70mm round at the base with an extended stairway. It can accommodate a 20mm round base on it's battlements. I have designed it with the option to include 12 add-yourself (spiky) skewer sticks – not supplied but they are readily available.
I'm keen to hear what forum members think. A door for the doorway? I quite like the open doorway. (A You-Shall-Not-Pass enchanted doorway, of course.)
I can make it available as soon as the business bank account is up and running.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Wizard's-Tower-01-480-B&W.jpg)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Wizard's-Tower-03-480.jpg)
That is a fantastic model and I don't mind an open doorway. I will be buying one.
Looks great ! 8)
Cheers - Phil
Very nice Michael
Terrific looking model.
You could say it needs Moredoors (Mordor?)
You can keep your coat. ;)
Cheers - Phil
Very nice indeed
Take care
Andy
nice work
That's really good. :)
Here is the 10mm wizard's tower undercoated and ready to paint made from the kit that I will put up for sale.
After assembly, I covered the model in a wash of diluted modelling paste (avoiding the engraved detail) then undercoated it with emulsion paint.
I've made some little changes to the original model and a big change to the stairway so that the whole structure now fits on a 70mm round base – a base is included in the kit.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Wizard's-Tower-10.jpg)
Go away. I...DO...NOT...WISH...TO...BE...LURED...INTO...FANTASY!
(Super model, nonetheless.)
I need some technical help here, I'm throwing money at my screen, but nothing is happening.
Nice looking tower, the new stairs are great!
Quote from: FierceKitty on 18 April 2015, 01:16:56 AM
Go away. I...DO...NOT...WISH...TO...BE...LURED...INTO...FANTASY!
(Super model, nonetheless.)
Quote from: Ken on 18 April 2015, 03:27:45 AM
I need some technical help here, I'm throwing money at my screen, but nothing is happening.
Nice looking tower, the new stairs are great!
Most of what they said, absolutely marvellous Michael
Absolutely belting, Michael. :-bd
Cheers - Phil
It just gets better, I want one even more now.
PayPal, cash or cheque?
None of these. You acquire a place like that by challenging the incumbent, staff in hand.
Does it have to have a knob on the end?
Where did I put my spell book?
Thanks for everyone's interest!
Quote from: Ken on 18 April 2015, 03:27:45 AM
I need some technical help here, I'm throwing money at my screen, but nothing is happening.
Quote from: mad lemmey on 18 April 2015, 07:03:18 AM
PayPal, cash or cheque?
I'll be trading under the name
Supreme Littleness Designs. I've put up a homepage for a new website from where (hopefully next week as soon as the bank account kicks into action) you'll be able to make orders by PayPal.
Cheers, Michael
http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk (http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk)
What he said.
Awesome model. :)
I'm launching the Supreme Littleness Designs website and the new venture with the release of the 10mm Wizard's Tower. Pretty apt, perhaps, as another Michael Scott was a famous Scottish wizard, immortalised by Dante, Sir Walter Scott and in many other works of fiction – and 10mm is my scale of choice right now! And it catches the Warband fever that's going on!
http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk (http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk)
And for anyone who'd like to order them all together, there are a couple more 10mm fantasy kits coming soon.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Wizard's-Tower-13.png)
It's Ming the Merciless! Flash, save us!
This Michael Scott?
All the best in this venture Michael. Once things are up and running I will be ordering some of the 3mm stuff to go with my FPW BBB project.
Good stuff Michael. I posted you url on the KOW fb page as there is a few 10mm players there and also the 3mm yahoo group.Hope it goes well
And in English?
valorous stuff Michael. I posted thee url on the KOW fb page as thither is a few 10mm players thither and eke the 3mm yahoo group. desire t goeth well
Superb
For goodness sake ! X_X
Best of luck, Michael.....Though I don't think luck will need to come into it.
Cheers - Phil
@ Fenton Many thanks for that! The more FB likes the better!
@ Bloodaxe You can't imagine my joy when I discovered the name chosen for the main character in the American adaptation of Ricky Gervais' comedy series.
In these far climes, it was my lot
To meet the wondrous Michael Scott;
A wizard of such dreaded fame,
That when, in Salamanca's cave,
Him listed his magic wand to wave,
The bells would ring in Notre Dame !
Well Michael, it appears you have three hurls on a fb wibble wobble in both modern and Shakespearean English. Still none the wiser and probably better for it, unless my lack of understanding should affect your sales.
Quote from: Leman on 23 April 2015, 11:45:00 AM
Well Michael, it appears you have three hurls on a fb wibble wobble in both modern and Shakespearean English. Still none the wiser and probably better for it, unless my lack of understanding should affect your sales.
If might be a wise move to Like my FaceBook page then you'll be posted as the 3mm are released. It's unlikely that I post here on Leon's forum my non-10mm releases as this is Leon's site and I appreciate what it's here to promote.
Cheers, Michael
(The quote is from Sir Walter Scott's
Lay of the Last Minstrel published in 1805.)
Any prospect of 6mm models, Michael? (Yes, I know, there's always one, isn't there)
Quote from: Hertsblue on 23 April 2015, 02:06:10 PM
Any prospect of 6mm models, Michael? (Yes, I know, there's always one, isn't there)
I can assure you there are many more than one!
I've had requests for 3mm for 6mm. Are you wanting 6mm for 10mm? For big battle 10mm I'd reccommend the upcoming small dwellings that have a footprint of only 20mm by 40mm. They almost look like 6mm next to the 10mm La Belle Alliance.
Great looking venture Micheal, I hope it goes well for you
Hope it gose well love the website
Take care
Andy
Nice looking website and models. Good luck.
Nice looking website, though I'd expect no less given your other sites!
Nice models too, you deserve to do well.
Quote from: Womble67 on 23 April 2015, 08:37:32 PM
Hope it gose well love the website
Take care
Andy
Somebody can't spell
goose.
Quote from: WeeWars on 23 April 2015, 03:12:16 PM
I can assure you there are many more than one!
I've had requests for 3mm for 6mm. Are you wanting 6mm for 10mm? For big battle 10mm I'd reccommend the upcoming small dwellings that have a footprint of only 20mm by 40mm. They almost look like 6mm next to the 10mm La Belle Alliance.
Actually, I know it's unconventional, but I need 6mm for 6mm. ;)
Quote from: Hertsblue on 24 April 2015, 08:03:46 AM
Actually, I know it's unconventional, but I need 6mm for 6mm. ;)
What period?
I only have old H&R 6mm. What's the actual height of the new Adler and Baccus releases? Is it more 8mm?
Napoleonic.
Baccus infantry is exactly 6mm ground to eye, he prides himself on the fact. Obviously, headgear adds to that. I don't know about Adler.
Quote from: Hertsblue on 24 April 2015, 04:49:50 PM
Napoleonic.
Baccus infantry is exactly 6mm ground to eye, he prides himself on the fact. Obviously, headgear adds to that. I don't know about Adler.
It's the bit above the eye that needs to get through the door without ducking that interests me. :D
Total Battle's 6mm is doing an excellent job for the 100 Days so I expect it's a different theatre you're asking for?
Yes, Central Europe - 1806 -1809. Mainly Germany/Austria I suspect.
It won't surprise you that I'm working on German buildings in 10mm! :D
The problem I would anticipate with downscaling my designs would be finding a solution for the roof sections. I solved the problem for 3mm (imagine 3mm card roofs!) by incorporating the roofs as part of the building structure. I don't think that would be appropriate for 6mm. It may be that I would need to find a tougher/not too expensive material than the card I use for 10mm for 6mm roofs.
Yes, I was dubious about laser-cutting 10mm buildings before I saw your efforts. However, I'm confident you'll solve the problem eventually, Michael.
'Tiling' card for a 6mm roof may just shred it. Alternatively, not so many tiles? Or textured paper? Something to break up the flatness of the card.
Since we are kind of on the subject of LOTR, Id love to see a Helms Deep set in 10mm.
Quote from: Bloodaxe on 01 May 2015, 05:02:22 PM
Since we are kind of on the subject of LOTR, Id love to see a Helms Deep set in 10mm.
Are you thinking like the film or more like Tolkien's drawings? Tolkien's is more Early Medieval than the High Medieval style used in the film. Also, the rock wall is more integrated in the film's design, which may be difficult to resolve.
This is drawing done by Tolkein of Helms deep
(http://tolkiengateway.net/w/images/a/a9/J.R.R._Tolkien_-_Helm%27s_Deep_and_the_Hornburg.jpg)
Probly more like movie. One part the wall and the other part in the moutain. I'll try to find a decent pic. Maybe something like the sideshow Weta model. Probably without the mountains would be easier.
I thought I'd be able to find a paper model. Havent. Best idea I had was Kallistra castle pieces and throw it together myself.
I've designed a 10mm bridge.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/bridges10mm/Triple-Arch-Stone-Bridge-01.jpg)
It has a footprint of 150 x 50mm. The roadway over the bridge can accommodate a 25mm wide base.
It's not clear in the pic but the roadway and the sides of the bridge have a textured finish.
I plan to put the kit up on my site soon, selling at £5.
Cheers, Michael
Looking good :)
Nice one. I will definitely be getting one of these. :-bd
Looks great but can you vary the width, as I use 30mm & 40mm bases?
cheers
Ian
Getting a model bridge able to handle the width of a base is a frequent problem, isn't it?
Quote from: Sandinista on 02 May 2015, 11:59:20 AM
Looks great but can you vary the width, as I use 30mm & 40mm bases?
cheers
Ian
Can do. I also thought of having a narrower bridge. The present model looks nicely to scale. Do you think that widening it to 40mm might make it look rather out of scale? I could design a larger bridge to suit wider bases but it might bring up issues with ground scale.
Quote from: FierceKitty on 02 May 2015, 12:08:42 PM
Getting a model bridge able to handle the width of a base is a frequent problem, isn't it?
It's an impossible problem if the base represents a formation that would never be expected to cross a bridge without narrowing its frontage.
Kind of what I meant. I've ended up almost always using a timber bridge without rails as a result.
That's a good looking bridge, Michael. :-bd
Tempting .....
Quote from: Sandinista on 02 May 2015, 11:59:20 AM
Looks great but can you vary the width, as I use 30mm & 40mm bases?
One of the reasons I no longer have 50mm (2 inch) wide bases and now have 25mm (1 inch) wide bases for my 10mm miniatures. So the 25mm width suits me perfectly. Suppose you could simply offer a wider version for sale for those who need up to double that width, Michael.
That's a very nice bridge.
Looks very impressive. Can't believe I haven't seen the word Antietam yet.
Quote from: Leman on 02 May 2015, 04:04:56 PM
Looks very impressive. Can't believe I haven't seen the word Antietam yet.
Antietam, Antietam, Antietam. (Enough for you?) :)
Nice little model, in fact they are all nice little models. personally, I'm not overkeen on the chunky bases but that's just me although I've no doubt there is a very valid reason. Whichever size bridge width you go with you will always be asked for a different size.
Quote from: Sandinista on 02 May 2015, 11:59:20 AM
Looks great but can you vary the width, as I use 30mm & 40mm bases?
cheers
Ian
I use 40x20, but i think you can maybe turn them to their side when crossing, to represent them squeezing the formation over it?
Quote from: Subedai on 02 May 2015, 07:00:05 PM
Nice little model, in fact they are all nice little models. personally, I'm not overkeen on the chunky bases but that's just me although I've no doubt there is a very valid reason.
Do you mean the 2mm high 'riverbank'? The card roadway fixes onto it and it protects the card at the same time.
Quote from: petercooman on 02 May 2015, 07:21:10 PM
I use 40x20, but i think you can maybe turn them to their side when crossing, to represent them squeezing the formation over it?
Also, with this model you can (if you don't mind) stand (balance) bases on the side walls.
Quote from: Subedai on 02 May 2015, 07:00:05 PM
Whichever size bridge width you go with you will always be asked for a different size.
How very true. Providing a choice of widths would, I assume, require different bases as well as different road beds? Possibly not practicable on a mass production basis.
Those look great, I need to get me one or two.
V/R,
Jack
There are trolls already; can't find any model billygoats yet....
That's a bridge too far.
The crusaders haven't reached it and put up their distinctive flag yet. Thus the mission objective: "We'll cross that bridge when we come to it. Devs vvlt!"
That is very nice. How wide is the gap between the two banks, i.e. what is the widest river section that can be put in there?
Lovely indeed. Is there a link to your webstore? Probably me being dim/shortsighted.....
Quote from: petercooman on 02 May 2015, 07:21:10 PM
I use 40x20, but i think you can maybe turn them to their side when crossing, to represent them squeezing the formation over it?
Quote from: WeeWars on 02 May 2015, 08:04:18 PM
Also, with this model you can (if you don't mind) stand (balance) bases on the side walls.
You could sit them on top but the curved nature of the bridge suggests they will slide - and it looks naff. Or you could stop your unit at the bridge entrance and then cross the bridge on the next move - but in some instances, this might result in an unfair movement advantage. Or you could re-base all of your units as I did (were based on 2 inch wide x 1 inch deep bases for Might & Reason - now on 1 inch square bases for Maurice, Black Powder & Field of Battle).
The reason I did that was that I was never happy with units on roads or bridges. I play with rules that allow march column and attack column. Units can only cross a bridge in march column. My 1 inch (25mm) wide bases allow my units to adopt this formation and finish their moves at any point on the bridge. For those who use wide bases (1.5 to 2 inches wide), it makes me wonder how one differentiates between the two types of column if using, say, the above rules. It strikes me that march column does not exist - which, I've found, is not a big problem until you hit a narrow gap such as a bridge. If you are not in march column, you need to change formation both at the entrance and at the exit of the bridge (if you want to get back into battle formation).
How do 'wide base gamers' portray that part of the rules? It seems to me that if your unit advances to the bridge entrance in attack column and then magically appears at the other side in the same formation (either on the same move or the next), this confers an unfair advantage on the crossing unit because no halts were made to make the necessary formation changes.
Back to Michael's bridge. Seems to me, the solution is therefore for Michael to offer 2 widths for sale (but I think the wide version may look naff) or for 'wide base gamers' to buy the illustrated example and simply adjust their rules for bridge crossings.
Quote from: Norm on 03 May 2015, 04:35:20 AM
That is very nice. How wide is the gap between the two banks, i.e. what is the widest river section that can be put in there?
The width between the riverbanks is a little over 80mm.
Quote from: Nosher on 03 May 2015, 09:51:00 AM
Lovely indeed. Is there a link to your webstore? Probably me being dim/shortsighted.....
http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk (http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk)
and the FB page:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Supreme-Littleness-Designs/1427541787548130?ref=hl (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Supreme-Littleness-Designs/1427541787548130?ref=hl)
Quote from: WeeWars on 02 May 2015, 08:04:18 PM
Do you mean the 2mm high 'riverbank'? The card roadway fixes onto it and it protects the card at the same time.
Sorry, I didn't make myself clear. I wasn't talking about the bridge but some of the other buildings which looks bang on, the base is more noticable on the 3mm. As I said, there's probably a very good reason why this is so.
Quote from: Subedai on 03 May 2015, 11:14:38 AM
Sorry, I didn't make myself clear. I wasn't talking about the bridge but some of the other buildings which looks bang on, the base is more noticable on the 3mm. As I said, there's probably a very good reason why this is so.
For my 3mm buildings, there really isn't much choice what to base them on. Thinner material like card would be less robust and plywood and metal would bump up the price. I haven't seen any but I'm guessing that most gamers base their 3mm on the same 2mm bases. Standing them alongside (they're never going to fit in BUAs on their big Blucher bases) their heights will match.
An idea I would suggest for 3mm gaming would be to make light infantry markers that can be placed in a BUA to show that it is occupied.
@ Westmarcher
Like yours (as anyone who follows my 1809 Blog http://www.michaelscott.name/1809/1809.htm (http://www.michaelscott.name/1809/1809.htm) will know) my Napoleonics are based on 25mm square bases.
I like the aesthetic of wide bases for wide formations but for Napoleonics I like even more being able to also represent the aesthetic of troops trailing down roads and over bridges – and there were a lot of bridges in the war of 1809!
The truth is that in battle games, model buildings and bridges are simply markers of what they represent. We don't expect 10mm figures to be able to occupy buildings and fire out windows so why should we expect them to be able to cross a bridge?
A bridge model should mark a bridging point but at the actual ground scale it's likely that it's too long to accurately represent where the road narrows and the bridge begins and ends.
As to the width of the crossing, free movement across a bridge should never be assumed. In 1809, certainly, weakened troops regularly blocked bridges and were pushed off to a watery grave by more able comrades.
Thanks for all the comments.
Here's the bridge painted.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/bridges10mm/Triple-Arch-Stone-Bridge-02.jpg)
Although subtle, the textured surface makes a difference when painting the model – it definitely hasn't the normal smooth flatness of most sheet material.
Cheers, Michael
I've been experimenting with designs for a 10mm Helm's Deep as suggested by forum members.
This is a rough/mock up for a wall section. The grey card pieces will all have engraved stonework detail added.
I'll also remove the side doors as they will never be seen.
The battlements of this wall section accommodates two 40 x 20mm bases comfortably. The full height of the wall is a crazy 130mm – and, believe or not, is pretty stable thanks to the weight of the scary stairs that would never pass a health and safety check!
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep01.jpg)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep02.jpg)
Brilliant!
What a transformation! I like that very much! =D>
Amazing. Is the gallery below the parapet as described in the book? Didn't know about that (or forgotten). Very impressive. Should the crenellation be so narrow? I'm not saying this from any knowledge from the book, by the way, but it doesn't look 'credible' (for me) for shielding the men / figures (not that such a thing would necessarily matter for Tolkien).
btw, feedback given with good intent, Michael. :)
Awesome!
Seems a little tall. For Helms Deep you might not need inner works with arrow sits. Just the upper ramparts.
Great stuff!
Maybe a destroyed section and a section with a sewer opening.
Quote from: Westmarcher on 04 May 2015, 05:01:33 PM
Amazing. Is the gallery below the parapet as described in the book? Didn't know about that (or forgotten). Very impressive. Should the crenellation be so narrow? I'm not saying this from any knowledge from the book, by the way, but it doesn't look 'credible' (for me) for shielding the men / figures (not that such a thing would necessarily matter for Tolkien).
btw, feedback given with good intent, Michael. :)
All comments are welcome. :D Much more preferable to online silence. :(
As we began discussing in this post
http://www.pendrakenforum.co.uk/index.php/topic,12007.15.html (http://www.pendrakenforum.co.uk/index.php/topic,12007.15.html)
from Tolkien's drawings, his vision was more Early Medieval (Dark Ages, if you prefer) than the more High Medieval style used in the film. I'm happy to go for a later Medieval style than Tolkien intended if that's what people want. I'd like to add fantastical design elements (like the design of the crenellation) rather than just create a Medieval castle. However, I'm tempted to invent my own rather than copy the work of the film designers – just in case the copyright police get interested.
10mm, I believe, allows the heights of fantasy buildings to be exaggerated, look great and still practical to game with – never mind that none of us would willingly climb those scary stairways! The battlements really give a castle character and I'd want this castle to have a style that looks fantastical – however unpractical. :D I experimented adding detail to the crenellation but I reckoned folk would find the small pieces too frustrating to fix on.
Cheers, Michael
Quote from: Bloodaxe on 04 May 2015, 05:21:24 PM
Awesome!
Seems a little tall. For Helms Deep you might not need inner works with arrow sits. Just the upper ramparts.
Great stuff!
Maybe a destroyed section and a section with a sewer opening.
This could be the general idea for the towers of the Deeping Wall and the wall sections not so high. An alternative destroyed wall section is a must for the Deeping Wall.
Fantastic work, I am starting to save up my money already.
Simple test on the crenellations, can a dwarf see over them?
Quote from: mad lemmey on 04 May 2015, 06:44:08 PM
Simple test on the crenellations, can a dwarf see over them?
Very true! Also those kneeling down Empire hand-gunners and hunched-over orcs and teeny goblins. It's my exaggerated battlements that are on the tall size. But the design is partly to allow small Fantasy types to see over the on-the-low-side crenellations.
It's rather splendid, anyway, Michael. :-bd
Cheers - Phil
Maybe something like this. A separate wall sections and then the main fortress/gate. A destroyed wall section/sewer grate. I just suggest not so big, because with 10mm , it isnt really needed and can cut cost/materials. 1/2 to 2/3 that size would be enough for the Hornburg wall, as that would be around 10x the size of the figures 10mm.
Just all my view of course. Beautiful work.
Marvellous Micheal ;) :)
I checked out those images - it's a model of the film set? The position and design of the tower is very much their own invention?
Quote from: WeeWars on 04 May 2015, 08:54:54 PM
I checked out those images - it's a model of the film set? The position and design of the tower is very much their own invention?
Its a sideshow weta model. Its just something to give you an idea or example from the movie.
Terrific, Michael. 8)
Thanks, yeah, so it's attempting to be a good representation of the movie set.
Here's another mock-up of a wall section frontage, 82mm high. All MDF this time:
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep03.jpg)
And alongside the first one:
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep04.jpg)
I think the shorter wall is better. I wouldnt mind something showing more stone, less ornate. Less crenellations, (or is it merlons?) but have them wider/thicker. There seem to be too many & too narrow. Something like the top of this. Will appaer to give protection, while some of the figures are still visible.
(http://cf.ydcdn.net/1.0.1.32/images/main/battlement.jpg)
I have to admit I was trying to avoid the usual equal width crenel and merlon. It's been done so many times before in MDF and, I feel, tends to emphasise the flatness of the sheet material.
I was going for something taller, slender, more Venetian-like in design just for a change – and which allows for better looking corners. Perhaps, better reserved for an Elven tower of some sort. ;D
However, I don't mind going more in the direction of the movie. But not too close to the design to avoid copyright issues.
Mmm, that would look good on any European field from Roman times onward.
Have you thought beyond the outer wall? If that is 135mm tall, how big would the keep need to be? Just a thought.
The Deeping (outer) Wall is 80mm tall now. The movie's design is on a much bigger scale than Tolkien's original concept. Minas Tirith on the other hand...
Here's a more standard castle wall design. It's under 80mm high. I've doubled the thickness of the battlement to match the wider merlons.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep05.jpg)
I like that one. (the last pic)
I shall try a matching tower design so you can make a Deeping Wall with three wall sections and two towers. I'll leave the optional ruined section of wall until I see what the inner and outer courtyard look like.
I like all of them!
The second one has an Arabic look to it - which is nice!
Quite like the third one as a fairly generic medieval style.
Quote from: fred 12df on 05 May 2015, 05:23:55 PM
I like all of them!
The second one has an Arabic look to it - which is nice!
Quite like the third one as a fairly generic medieval style.
Thanks!
I was originally trying to keep away from a generic North European Medieval style. For some reason I see an ornamental Eastern influence in the elaborate Viking type designs for the movie's Riders of Rohan.
I like the third one the best as the merlons are big enough for the walls defenders to take cover behind from incoming arrows and Such.
In Tolkiens Lord of the rings Appendixes (book not Movies) it is stated that Helms deep was but by Gondor as a castle that defended the Fords of Isen holding a Gondorian Regiment. After the Horse men came to Gondors Aid they were gifted the land that became Rohan.
Part of this land had the helms deep fort.
The Rohhirim would have had no influance upon the architecture of Helms Deep as it was built long before they arrived.
Regards
Sean
Splendid stuff, again, Michael !
Cheers - Phil
Quote from: Sean67 on 05 May 2015, 06:40:29 PM
I like the third one the best as the merlons are big enough for the walls defenders to take cover behind from incoming arrows and Such.
In Tolkiens Lord of the rings Appendixes (book not Movies) it is stated that Helms deep was but by Gondor as a castle that defended the Fords of Isen holding a Gondorian Regiment. After the Horse men came to Gondors Aid they were gifted the land that became Rohan.
Part of this land had the helms deep fort.
The Rohhirim would have had no influance upon the architecture of Helms Deep as it was built long before they arrived.
Regards
Sean
You know, Sean, I had it at the back of my mind somewhere that it wasn't a Rohirrim build. Tolkien's drawings, though, show a wooden type construction that would be quite in keeping with the Early Medieval style that is associated with the Rohirrim and their wooden halls.
Cheers, Michael
There are references in the text to Helm's Deep as a stone fortification. Are posters confusing buildings?
No, just that I see this as a timber construction:
(http://tolkiengateway.net/w/images/a/a9/J.R.R._Tolkien_-_Helm%27s_Deep_and_the_Hornburg.jpg)
I'd always taken the Deeping Wall in that picture to be buttressed stone - just goes to show.
I'd expect stone buttresses to be in front of the wall. Wooden post behind, makes sense. I've always seen them as towers. :)
As far as memory serves, Gimli says he is limited in helping repairs because he hasn't got the right equipment for working stone.
Or she, of course.
Gimli son of Gloin.
About the new not dwarf who is definitely male!
Helm's Deep is a fortress of Gondor originally, inherited by Rohan. So I'd expect a Gondorian or even Numenorean look to the architecture.
I do like this :)
Quote from: mad lemmey on 06 May 2015, 04:46:08 PM
Gimli son of Gloin.
About the new not dwarf who is definitely male!
Remember the shock in the dwarf community when some of their sons start publicly declaring that they are daughters?
Amidst the shock revelation the Gimli could be a girl, here's a matching tower together with a wall (with its design tweaked a little).
The tower is just under 105mm high, the wall section just under 80mm. You can stand 40 x 40mm of bases on the battlements of the tower and 80 x 25mm on the battlements of the wall section.
The tower can be assembled to connect two wall sections either as a straight or as a corner.
This wall section has an optional stairway added.
Using the card around the arrow slit is optional as are the card boulders. But why wouldn't you want to use the boulders, add a splash of modelling paste or filler and give the foundations a textured look?
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep06.jpg)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep07.jpg)
Pretty pleased when I discovered the wall design detail in John Howe's original concept art for the movie:
(http://users.bestweb.net/~jfgm/MovieDesignTTT/images/IMG12.60.jpg)
yes please :D where do I sign
Quote from: Maenoferren on 07 May 2015, 11:46:46 AM
yes please :D where do I sign
Here:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Supreme-Littleness-Designs/1427541787548130 (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Supreme-Littleness-Designs/1427541787548130)
:D
Very nice.
Very nice indeed
Take care
Andy
I have to say that I'm so impressed with the speed that you produce each new 'prototype', Michael.
It's not just the speed, but the 'look' of each one that's so good. =D> =D>
Cheers - Phil
Quote from: Techno on 08 May 2015, 06:28:00 AM
I have to say that I'm so impressed with the speed that you produce each new 'prototype', Michael.
It's not just the speed, but the 'look' of each one that's so good. =D> =D>
Cheers - Phil
Seconded
... and thirded!
Some very nice models and not just Helm's Deep ones, Michael.
Thanks for (I have to say this today, I've been listening to it all night ;D ) the votes of confidence!
I've experimented with a mock-up for a half-tower. You can fit a 25mm wide base on the battlements. For the final version, I'd recommend you to finish off the corners with some filler.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep09.jpg)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep08.jpg)
I would suggest incorporating these into the Deeping Wall and reserving the larger towers for the outer courtyard on the Hornrock utilising the same wall sections.
I'll design a wall section with a sewer for the Deeping Wall and a connecting wall with stairs up to a higher level outer courtyard. The higher level will be based on you having a 50mm polystyrene block to stand the main castle model on. Designing an inner courtyard will be more of a challenge unless you are willing to splash out on a wide outer courtyard to give me space to design something substantial within its walls.
Cheers, Michael
Wow. Truly awesome!
Well that is my Birthday money pending sorted out :D...I just hope I get some now :-\
That curved tower looks really good.
It might be a good idea to extend the stone/brick pattern to all the sides of the walls - even if they will be covered in standard construction, as it will give a bit more leeway in how the towers and walls are assembled together.
I like the stone pattern at the bottom. I cant wait to see your wall with a sewer grate. Maybe a destroyed/breached wall section next? Or a main gate section.
Great stuff!!!
=D>
Quote from: fred 12df on 08 May 2015, 05:28:54 PM
That curved tower looks really good.
It might be a good idea to extend the stone/brick pattern to all the sides of the walls - even if they will be covered in standard construction, as it will give a bit more leeway in how the towers and walls are assembled together.
That will definitely be included that in the finale version. The mock-ups are still pretty unfinished. The half-tower's battlement's floor lacks flag stones. :D I also plan to break up the precision of the stonework slightly with some hand-drawn stones. Not too much, though, in case they stand out too much.
Quote from: Bloodaxe on 08 May 2015, 05:36:34 PM
I like the stone pattern at the bottom. I cant wait to see your wall with a sewer grate. Maybe a destroyed/breached wall section next? Or a main gate section.
Great stuff!!!
=D>
Yes, I should have mentioned that. The sewer will definitely be twinned with a destroyed version.
A main gate is essential to complete the castle. The sections should also be suitable for a non-Helm's Deep fantasy castle. It would be up to personal preference whether they can be used for a historical one.
Quote from: WeeWars on 08 May 2015, 06:26:16 PM
Yes, I should have mentioned that. The sewer will definitely be twinned with a destroyed version.
A main gate is essential to complete the castle. The sections should also be suitable for a non-Helm's Deep fantasy castle. It would be up to personal preference whether they can be used for a historical one.
That sounds great. A set that can be used in several different ways. Awesome.
Might I suggest that a full octagonal tower (à la Caernarvon) would be of assistance to anyone not wedded to fantasy?
Quote from: Hertsblue on 09 May 2015, 09:37:29 AM
Might I suggest that a full octagonal tower (à la Caernarvon) would be of assistance to anyone not wedded to fantasy?
Actually, that might be a fine solution for Helm Deep's central keep. :)
Quote from: WeeWars on 02 May 2015, 08:04:18 PM
Also, with this model you can (if you don't mind) stand (balance) bases on the side walls.
Quote from: Westmarcher on 03 May 2015, 09:53:56 AM
You could sit them on top but the curved nature of the bridge suggests they will slide - and it looks naff.
No billy goats or trolls but at Falkirk's Carronade show today Leon successfully marched a Warband base (100mm x 50mm) over the 10mm bridge.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/bridges10mm/Warband-crosses-SLD's-Bridge.jpg)
Excellent! :-bd
Brilliant
Stonking.......Again !!
Cheers - Phil.
What those two said ! 8)
Cheers - Phil
Thanks, again!
I've designed a possible gateway.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep11.jpg)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep10.jpg)
The emblems can be changed. A horse for Helm's Deep may be more appropriate but those Numenoreans or Gondor guys may have left their mark.
So far, the tower and the wall sections have been designed to accommodate two bases each. The gateway can accommodate two bases as well. One base at the battlements above the gate and another in the room below where boiling oil and hot sand can be thrown down on any attackers (there is an available gap in the floor). It's possible that I may lower the floor of this room significantly so that a troop base can actually be placed in the room (from the rear).
Cheers, Michael
Very, very impressive. I can see the walls flying off the shelves.
Good grief ! =D> =D> =D>
Cheers - Phil
Wow...yep time to get saving :x :x :x
The look fantastic.
I had been vaguely thinking about scratch building some castle walls, but these look a lot better and an easier option.
How long are the basic wall sections going to be? You have mentioned 2 bases, but not sure if this is in relation to all sections are just these. Being able to fit 3 x 40mm bases on a wall section may be good?
Marvellous Michael
Quote from: fred 12df on 11 May 2015, 04:37:01 PM
The look fantastic.
I had been vaguely thinking about scratch building some castle walls, but these look a lot better and an easier option.
How long are the basic wall sections going to be? You have mentioned 2 bases, but not sure if this is in relation to all sections are just these. Being able to fit 3 x 40mm bases on a wall section may be good?
The basic wall section is 82mm wide, same as the gateway section.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep06.jpg)
Designed to accommodate two 40 x 20mm bases (see the pic in the OP). I can see the practicality of a wall section that can accommodate a full Warmaster infantry unit - and I can design one to suit. However, if you have a run of walls and towers an option would be to have one base in a tower and two on a wall. Basically, a tower is not a soft spot for attackers to attack and a very good place for defenders to add supporting fire to comrades on a wall beneath them. However, I'd put a big question mark over allowing field-strength units the ability to retain their unit cohesion and not forcing them to form detachments while fighting in a castle or any other built-up area.
Bases you can fit on the models:
Wall section: 2 40 x 20mm bases alongside one another
Full Tower: 2 40 x 20mm bases one behind the other
Gateway section: 1 40 x 20mm base on top and (if it can be redesigned) another inside the model
Half Tower: 1 25mm wide marker or command base
Ah, yes, Leon - or Mustrum Ridcully as he's known at the Unseen Uni. ;)
Here's the redesigned gateway.
The gateway can accommodate two 40 x 20mm bases. One base at the battlements above the gate and another in the room below where boiling oil and hot sand can be thrown down on any attackers (there is an available gap in the floor).
The model's not designed to have a lift off roof as there's enough access already. However, I left the top off for the photo shoot, and it might help when painting the model before finale gluing.
Three kits - the wall section, the gateway, and the tower - are enough to put together a castle. Shall I properly finish these three kits and make them available first before completing the other Helm's Deep sections?
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep12.jpg)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep13.jpg)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep14.jpg)
Marvolous Michael
I would suggest getting these available and then adding the other Helm's Deep section.
Unfortunately not my thing but more & more tempting ;)
Absolutely belting !! :-bd
Cheers - Phil
Fantastic work.
I love them all, I do prefer the wider chunkier crenellations, if you made the gondorian motief optional it would work for lots of different games. Love them thanks for sharing
Price ?
It is amazing what can be achieved with these laser cutters the amount of detail and the accuracy is truly astonishing.
Take care
Andy
Redesigning for Warmaster Siege
I got hold of an online copy of Warmaster Siege rules. As – I'm assuming – most gamers will want a 10mm fantasy castle to use with these rules, I'm amending the designs so that they conform with my reading of the rules.
Warmaster requires a castle model to be divided into sections 40 to 50mm wide.
Wall section
I'll amend the arch design on the walls so that two sections can stand alongside one another and the design will blend together.
A single wall section will now measure 48mm wide. There will also be a double wall section, measuring 96mm wide.
I'll also produce a ruined single wall section.
Tower
This stays the same. It measures 46mm wide at its base.
Towers should have an entrance at ground level. Adding one would mean having two different towers: a corner and a straight connector. This seems a shame and it may be better to simply assume that towers can be entered from ground level or a stick-on door can be included in the kit.
I'll also produce a ruined tower.
Gateway Tower
I'll extend the walls of the gateway to conform with the redesign of the wall sections so that it is 96mm wide. This - what is in effect a double section – doesn't count as such widthways but as a tower that accommodates a full three-base infantry unit: one on the ramparts, one in the tower, and one at the gate.
A broken door will also be included in the kit.
Sally Port
I'll produce a this as a marker that can be placed at any piece of wall to reveal that it is open.
That should cover all that's essential to play a siege game with the Warmaster rules.
Comments welcomed.
Cheers, Michael
Hi Michael,
not all of us play Warmaster so I prefer the wider wall sections with the archways in one piece, sorry to throw a spanner into the works.
Quote from: WeeWars on 14 May 2015, 10:40:09 AM
Redesigning for Warmaster Siege
I got hold of an online copy of Warmaster Siege rules. As – I'm assuming – most gamers will want a 10mm fantasy castle to use with these rules, I'm amending the designs so that they conform with my reading of the rules.
Warmaster requires a castle model to be divided into sections 40 to 50mm wide.
that might be quite a big assumption - I've played loads of WM, but we've never given the siege rules a run out. I'm not sure many people will want a 48mm long wall - it sounds very fiddly. But a 98mm would be quite good - unless you are playing Warband, then it will be just too small to get a stand on!!
I don't think there is an obvious length to go for, for walls.
The idea of stick on doors and sally ports sounds very useful though.
I know it's very "forum specific" but I'd definitely go 100mm wide - or at least wide enough to fit a 100mm base, for Warband functionality... Would probably fit Impetus sized bases better as well. And Hail Ceaser? At least walls in multiples of about 50mm...
You could make more than 1 set to suit all tastes
cheers
Ian
Quote from: toxicpixie on 14 May 2015, 07:10:20 PM
I know it's very "forum specific" but I'd definitely go 100mm wide - or at least wide enough to fit a 100mm base, for Warband functionality... Would probably fit Impetus sized bases better as well. And Hail Ceaser? At least walls in multiples of about 50mm...
Totally agree with 100mm wide.
Take care
Andy
Thanks for the comments so far.
For walls, you should be able to stand as many sections alongside one another to get whatever length you want without, hopefully, it being too different from the ideal. The importance of the smallest section is that it corresponds to the size not of your bases but of a breached section in your rules.
I must admit I don't know any other fantasy siege rules aimed at 10mm figures. I would be interested to know how other rules handle size of towers, gateways and breached sections. I'm not aware that there are plans for Warband siege rules but I'd be similarly interested in knowing how big-base rules handle not just walls but also the other elements of a castle model because it may be that they'd need a different much larger design all of their own.
I'm not familiar with any consensus on the size of a 10mm Impetus or 10mm Hail Caesar base – except that there isn't a consensus?
I guess you could do sections of 4 cm, 5 cm and 6cm (or any other lengths) so that the customer could compose his wall as he wish.
For big bases games, I guess you put the unit behind the wall.
Quote from: barbarian on 15 May 2015, 12:02:39 AM
For big bases games, I guess you put the unit behind the wall.
Personally, I'd think a section of 10mm scale castle wall that could fit, for example, a Warband 100mm x 50mm base on top would look ludicrous so I can't imagine any other way of doing it.
As long as a breached section is the same size as a standard wall section I don't see what difference the actual size makes. Smaller is probably better, since as said before here you can add more wall sections. If they're too big, you can't take them away.
Unless you're doing skirmish games it's merely representative anyway.
Here's a ruined 48mm wall section showing the redesign of the wall ends that now allows wall sections to line up and make longer walls while keeping the design consistent.
I plan to produce two ruined 48mm wall section designs perhaps selling them together in a pack of two.
The cavity of the wall, which would have been filled with rubble, should be creatively filled in the model with broken up polystyrene, cat litter, or – as I have done – just grout filler and artists modelling paste.
After a adding a splash of filler/paste on the walls, I painted directly onto the MDF with a blend of just two colours from the cheap DecoArt acrylic range. I think my personal preference, though, would be for a less sombre brown sandstone version.
Let me know what you think.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep17.jpg)
Stonking !!
Again !!
Cheers - Phil.
You're making it very hard to resist ;)
Quote from: toxicpixie on 18 May 2015, 03:15:20 PM
You're making it very hard to resist ;)
Excellent! Resistance is futile! ... that sounds like a siegey sort of thing to say.
Here are a couple of sally port marker contenders – I'll be going with the one on the right – designed to mark where defenders can sally forth and annoy besiegers. The sally ports are conveniently 'concealed' by wall buttresses.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/fantasy10mm/Helm'sDeep18.jpg)
Just take our money!
These are looking great.
Well, they are passable I suppose.
;)
Who am I kidding - these are great again. I'm looking forward to a set of these.
yep, saving up my pennies to get some of these :)
Update on 10mm Castle design progress:
I've now finished the main elements of the castle and will post pics of assembled kits some time over the weekend.
I've been hard at work hand drawing the stonework, stone by stone, to give a nice finish to the models.
The gateway has had a bit of a major overhaul and now has a working portcullis.
The kits should go on sale next week leaving me free to complete some Waterloo 3mm kits for June release.
Cheers, Michael
slow down a bit I haven't saved many pennies yet :) :D :D :D
Quote from: Maenoferren on 29 May 2015, 01:08:32 PM
slow down a bit I haven't saved many pennies yet :) :D :D :D
Going just as slow as I can. :D
A Helm's Deep QuestionThis question refers to the height of the Hornrock.
Tolkien says that the stairs from the Deeping Wall rose up to the Outer Courtyard on the Hornrock. I mentioned using 50mm polystyrene sheet to model the Hornrock. Clearly, if stairs go from a 66mm high rampart to the top of a 50mm high hill, the stairs are going to be going down rather than up! Either, we can go for a higher 75mm or 100mm Hornrock or the stairs can go up to a door not leading to the floor of the Outer Courtyard but up to the ramparts of the Courtyard wall.
Anyone planning a Helm's Deep castle got preferences?
Cheers, Michael
In that case I had better save faster.....
regarding the stairs issue, I wont be building Helms deep so not that fussed :)
off to shove my hand down the back of the sofa to see what cash has fallen down there. :D
Start with a brick floor and a couple of work tables. It's not exactly spotless under those tables.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-01.jpg)
Add a few seed trays. And a garden sieve.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-02.jpg)
Place something akin to an ornamental cheese plant in a terracotta pot on the brick floor.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-03.jpg)
The undergrowth tends to attract the most unsavoury types.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-04.jpg)
Now all that's needed is a Victorian greenhouse.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-10.jpg)
The door hasn't seen much gentle use. Leave it open to let some air in.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-09.jpg)
Add some clutter in the form of a couple of boxes.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-05.jpg)
Put one box in a cold frame. The flowers must be tender plants – to use what is, in all probability, a horticultural term. Prop the lid open with a stick. They're tender but they still need air.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-06.jpg)
After all this horticultural exertion a garden bench is a must for a much needed break.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-07.jpg)
There's that suspicious character again. He's enough to put you off taking tea in the garden.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-08.jpg)
The greenhouse in situ.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-12.jpg)
In situ in the garden.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-11.png)
The garden sieve has been carelessly left lying around.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-14.jpg)
And the gardener has neglected some necessary weeding chores.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-15.jpg)
Or perhaps he's been scared off by that dangerous looking chap with the gun.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/Greenhouse-13.jpg)
Excellent stuff 8). I just wish I had the space and money for some real ones!
Ha ha! I'm wondering why I haven't mended the roof of my garden shed!
:-bd =D> :-bd =D> :-bd =D>
Marvolous Michael
That is bl**dy good.
Have you made these?
Or 'just' assembled them?
Either way they are very nice.
Quote from: fred 12df on 04 June 2015, 08:10:09 PM
Have you made these?
Or 'just' assembled them?
All my own work. Apart from the obvious vegetation.
I should be able to make most of the parts – including plant leaves – available to order if anyone's interested in assembling their own 'corner of the garden'. Should be useful for Victorian to Modern, Historical and Fantastical.
Absolutely terrific, Michael !
(Where's the watering can ?.......And the slug pellets ? ;))
Cheers - Phil
Excellent modelling work. Presumably the suspicious character is wielding a Victorian anti-pest device.
That's absolutely stunning work
Take care
Andy
Quote from: Techno on 05 June 2015, 06:15:06 AM
Where's the watering can ?
Modelling one of those sounds like your department, Phil. Don't know anyone who currently makes them in 28mm. But you're right, the gardener is going to kill those plants if he doesn't water them soon.
Just thought: he also forgot to put labels in the the seed trays.
What would Monty Don say?
Marvellous
Quote from: WeeWars on 05 June 2015, 09:54:50 AM
Just thought: he also forgot to put labels in the the seed trays. What would Monty Don say?
I'm not sure, but he'd probably tell you to thin those trays out a bit....Or re-pot some of the individual plants ;)
Cheers - Phil
Better not say anything to the gardener. The local constabulary are somewhat suspicious of the plants he's growing in the greenhouse.
Most excellent work! =D>
The gardener has been extending the vegetable plot. He's always complaining about his aged knees. There's nothing he likes more than raised beds for managing his vegetables.
To begin, a base for the vegetable plot.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/veg-plot/Veg-Plot-01.jpg)
And bases for the vegetable beds.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/veg-plot/Veg-Plot-03.jpg)
Eight pieces of lollipop stick were cut.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/veg-plot/Veg-Plot-02.jpg)
After some light sanding of the waxed surfaces, liquid shoe polish made a good job of highlighting the wood grain of the sticks and weathering them. After that, the ends were marked with a sharp point to represent nail holes.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/veg-plot/Veg-Plot-06.jpg)
Eight pieces of matchstick were cut and glued into the holes in the main base. At the same time, the bed bases were glued to the main base, giving further support to the matchsticks at their corners.
The lollipop sticks were glued around the beds, making sure the nail holes were lined up with the matchstick uprights.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/veg-plot/Veg-Plot-07.jpg)
Wires were glued into the holes in one of the bed bases and a trellis structure was formed that supported a run of very thin wires.
A thin layer of filler mixed with glue was smeared in the area between the beds and cut-out bricks lightly pressed into the paste, and then the rest of the ground was covered with paste and filler – almost giving the appearance of the garden as it looks in winter.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/veg-plot/Veg-Plot-04.jpg)
Cabbages grow so slowly. Paper craft roses were painted and planted instead, producing a healthy cabbage patch.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/veg-plot/Veg-Plot-05.jpg)
And paint and flock did much to bring the rest of the garden to life.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/garden28mm/veg-plot/Veg-Plot-08.jpg)
Very nice.
Though I do find it disconcerting the easy with which you go from a pile of bits, to a lovely finished piece :'(
Wow!
It's a bit like - http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/how-to-draw-an-owl (http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/how-to-draw-an-owl)
Really nice, looks better than my real garden does!
Excellent, Michael !! :-bd
Cheers - Phil
Probably not much of a surprise to some but long before I purchased a laser cutter, I began laser-cut designs for 10mm German buildings to use in my 1809 project. This is one of these designs worked on since those early days. It will be included in a range of German buildings suitable for 1809 and many other wargames projects. I don't plan to put it up on my site just yet but drop me a line if you can't wait as it's good to go.
http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk (http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk)
Cheers, Michael
The German townhouse kit made up of cut fibreboards.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/german/German-Townhouse-101.jpg)
I painted the window panes and frames first before assembling the kit. I brushed gloss varnish on the window panes.
The kit needs nothing more than simple assembly using wood glue. I chose to add some texture with acrylic modelling paste dabbed on with a cocktail stick.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/german/German-Townhouse-102.jpg)
I used a range of natural colours, painted straight on to the model without an undercoat. Now it only needs some neighbours!
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/german/German-Townhouse-103.jpg)
Very nice
Can we order stuff from the website yet?
Yes, please!
Great looking building, and suitable for a number of periods and locations.
Id certainly like to place orders for things from the naps range. How do we go about it?
Very, very effective paint work and modelling 8). Well done!
Marvolous Michael
The step from winter to summer garden is disconcerting and beautifully done ;)
Top work, you must have green fingers?
Quote from: Bodvoc on 19 June 2015, 08:19:26 PM
Top work, you must have green fingers?
;D Only on the tabletop, not in my own garden!
Quote from: Nosher on 19 June 2015, 05:58:30 PM
Id certainly like to place orders for things from the naps range. How do we go about it?
Is there anything you specifically want that I can bump up the design queue? :)
This hobby just gets better!
That looks terrific, Michael !
Cheers - Phil
Quote from: WeeWars on 20 June 2015, 12:25:04 AM
Is there anything you specifically want that I can bump up the design queue? :)
Ive lost track of whats been designed in the range. I seem to recall two bridges. One timber and one stone. This townhouse and belle alliance. Are there any others?
Another lovely looking building.
A small suggestion, should the alternate rows of roof tiles be offset?
Do you have a link, or brand name to the modelling paste, it seems a very easy, and effective method of adding a bit of texture to a model.
Quote from: fred 12df on 20 June 2015, 10:21:49 AM
Another lovely looking building.
A small suggestion, should the alternate rows of roof tiles be offset?
The intention is that they're pantile tiles rather than off-set. Clay tiles come in a variety of colours. I have quite a few red roofed models so I chose to paint this one grey. Perhaps too blue 'slate' grey?
(http://www.roof-stores.co.uk/upload/CMSuploads/images/Old%20English%20Combined%20Colours.JPG)
(http://www.oldhouseweb.com/imagesvr_ce/stories/bitmaps/12239/pantile.jpg)
I can design off-set tiles as well but pantiles were more common for German houses. Pantiles were also common in Belgium - Flemish pantiles were being used here in Scotland as early as the 17th century. La Haye Sainte used a mix of off-set and pantile, for example.
Quote from: fred 12df on 20 June 2015, 10:21:49 AM
Do you have a link, or brand name to the modelling paste, it seems a very easy, and effective method of adding a bit of texture to a model.
I used a cheap Pebeo opaque heavy acrylic paste. It's designed, like paint, to adhere to the vertical so I find it quicker to work with than filler that's designed to fill gaps. Quickly running a cocktail stick through a thin layer adds, I think, a simple impression of wood grain to an otherwise flat surface with minimal effort.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pebeo-Studio-Acrylics-Auxiliaries-Modelling/dp/B00972HPMI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1434803727&sr=8-2&keywords=modelling+paste+pebeo (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pebeo-Studio-Acrylics-Auxiliaries-Modelling/dp/B00972HPMI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1434803727&sr=8-2&keywords=modelling+paste+pebeo)
Thanks for the link to the acrylic paste, I'll get a tube, seems to work very well to add that small bit of texture that is so important in making things look more natural.
Re the roofs - I think the grey had made be think of slate, and they normally overlap, not of pantiles ( auto correct, nearly made that into a naughty sentence :-[ )
I've recommended it on the forum before. It's useful when you don't want a sandy texture. It's also quite easy to mark brick and stone shapes with a pin. In effect, it's just thick paint that holds its shape.
I think you have a point. I might add a bit of a red glaze over the grey and keep the blue grey colour for actual slated roofs.
Terrific looking building which I could use in both the SYW and Franco-Prussian Alsace/Dijon settings.
Quote from: Leman on 21 June 2015, 09:40:44 AM
Terrific looking building which I could use in both the SYW and Franco-Prussian Alsace/Dijon settings.
Yes, I'm going to start calling this range Central European rather than German.
Greetings
Given I have 10mm SYW and 10mm 1809 forces to build, these look very promising.
Edward
28mm Afghan house based on an on-the-spot photo.
A figure on a penny can balance on the top step.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/afghan/Afghan-House-01.jpg)
The original has so much texture detail and colour it's tempting to add much more to the model!
Those stairs don't look very safe!
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/afghan/Afghanistan-House-Raid.jpg)
Cheers, Michael
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Supreme-Littleness-Designs/1427541787548130 (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Supreme-Littleness-Designs/1427541787548130)
marvellous!
wow
Marvellous Michael :-bd =D> :-bd =D> :-bd
As is often the case, realitity can get away with things that would stretch credibility to breaking point in fiction or models ;)
Incredible - I keep scrolling up and down from the photo to the model and back again.
I think your ladder is probably more robust than the original ;)
Quote from: fred 12df on 22 June 2015, 08:01:31 PM
Incredible - I keep scrolling up and down from the photo to the model and back again.
I think your ladder is probably more robust than the original ;)
;D I think the poor squady might agree with you. Another victory for cocktail sticks and barbecue skewers!
that is ace! =D>
It certainly is. :-bd
Cheers - Phil
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/CE-10mm-02-Thatched-Cottages-01.jpg)
10mm Central European thatched cottages available now together with the German (renamed 'Central European') townhouse.
The whole website has had a bit of a makeover so be sure to use the refresh button if you are returning.
Cheers, Michael
http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ce10mm.htm (http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ce10mm.htm)
Those are top!
Like those !! 8)
Cheers - Phil
Cracking stuff once again 8).
Those are fabulous! Best thatched buildings I've seen, by some way. Well done! =D> =D> =D>
Mollinary
:-bd =D> :-bd =D> :-bd
Marvolous Michael, being able to mix and match walls will allow multiple different buildings :)
Absotively top hole, wonderful stuff.
Thanks, gentlemen!
I'm basing the two cottages on one of my 100mm square terrain bases.
http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/bases.htm (http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/bases.htm)
It'll be a built-up area on the outskirts of my 10mm village of Essling.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/CE-10mm-02-Thatched-Cottages-02.jpg)
I've added a wood store and I'm including a road on the base. I now need to design a building small enough to fit on the other side of the road.
Cheers, Michael
very nice :-bd
how do you order
Okay, I get paid on Friday...
Quote from: old smokie on 24 June 2015, 10:23:51 PM
very nice :-bd
how do you order
Just click on the link and Add to Basket.
http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ce10mm.htm (http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ce10mm.htm)
Tasty.
thanks,
just ordered some :)
Very good job :-bd
Quote from: old smokie on 25 June 2015, 08:33:02 AM
thanks,
just ordered some :)
Thanks for your order!
I shall have to think of some small token to add to to your order to celebrate my first order from the Pendraken Forum!
Cheers, Michael
wow :) thanks Michael :-bd, much appreciated
Like I said, I had to design a small building to share the base with the thatched cottages. This is what I came up with: a shingle-roofed shed/cabin.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/CE-10mm-03-Shingle-roofed-Shed-03.jpg)
I can add the kit to what is leisurely becoming a 'range' of Central European buildings.
http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ce10mm.htm (http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ce10mm.htm)
Cheers, Michael
Very nice
Any idea when we will be able to order the 3mm stuff?
Marvellous Michael!
When will the new ones be on your site?
Quote from: Fenton on 28 June 2015, 01:56:48 PM
Very nice
Any idea when we will be able to order the 3mm stuff?
The 3mm designs had to go through a complete redesign when I got hold of some figs and discovered how much larger than 3mm they were. At the moment, I'm just waiting to see if a 3D print designer can add some 3D shapes to what I've already done as some things are just not possible in 2D laser design. I could, though, design some buildings that wouldn't need any added 3D shapes and put them up for sale ASAP, if time is pressing?
No that's fine Nothing pressing at the moment. I will wait for them
Quote from: mad lemmey on 28 June 2015, 02:22:47 PM
When will the new ones be on your site?
Which ones, Lemmey?
I've added the shed/cabin to the range on the 10mm Central European page.
The shed.
Ordered one of each, looking forwards to these.
Make more marvels Michael!
Looking fab, how are the fortifications coming along?
Quote from: Maenoferren on 28 June 2015, 05:30:18 PM
Looking fab, how are the fortifications coming along?
Thanks!
I can make the gateway, walls, sally gate, and tower ready to go - just have to make them pack worthy.
This project seems to be taking on a life of it's own :)
I hope it is leaving you some time for gaming ;)
Quote from: mad lemmey on 28 June 2015, 04:11:20 PM
The shed.
Ordered one of each, looking forwards to these.
Make more marvels Michael!
Thanks for your order! And I will obey that other order!
Quote from: paulr on 28 June 2015, 07:47:52 PM
This project seems to be taking on a life of it's own :)
I hope it is leaving you some time for gaming ;)
Never feel left out, Paul, I can do you a deal on postage to lovely NZ.
Not really but I'm not taking my eye off my own Essling tabletop.
Quote from: WeeWars on 28 June 2015, 07:52:21 PM
Never feel left out, Paul, I can do you a deal on postage to lovely NZ.
Not really but I'm not taking my eye off my own Essling tabletop.
;D
Not feeling left out at all, waiting for the range to grow so there is enough to make an order worth while :-w ;)
Closely following the 3mm for my 6mm Napoleonics and WWII and the 6mm for WWI
I have lots of Timecast 6mm for AWI, mostly unpainted :-[
Quote from: paulr on 28 June 2015, 07:59:06 PM
;D
Not feeling left out at all, waiting for the range to grow so there is enough to make an order worth while :-w ;)
Yes, I know that one very well. It's the Law of Three for local delivery where three items justify the P+P. How many to the other side of the world?
Quote from: WeeWars on 28 June 2015, 07:45:07 PM
Thanks!
I can make the gateway, walls, sally gate, and tower ready to go - just have to make them pack worthy.
Excellent :)
I've designed a 10mm water tap with a trough.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/CE-10mm-04-Water-Tap-and-Trough-01.jpg)
Tempting to stick one on the base with the thatched cottages but it's a bit too posh for those scruffy houses. :)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/CE-10mm-04-Water-Tap-and-Trough-02.jpg)
Cheers, Michael
Great idea!
Hi Michael,
Very nice! Please can I put in a request for your next item to design?
By rights my Franco-Prussian War battlefields - and indeed many wargamers' battlefields across France and Belgium across several recent centuries - ought to be dotted with "calvaires".
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calvary_%28sculpture%29
Of course it shouldn't be too hard for me to scratchbuild some. But it would be quicker and easier for me to buy them, if some thoughtful manufacturer made them. (Maybe someone already does? In which case I'd be grateful for pointers.)
My stuff is all 6mm rather than 10mm, so if you do design one/some, please could you make it on the small side so it is suitable for both scales?
Thanks!
Chris
Quote from: Chris Pringle on 30 June 2015, 12:30:53 PM
Hi Michael,
Very nice! Please can I put in a request for your next item to design?
By rights my Franco-Prussian War battlefields - and indeed many wargamers' battlefields across France and Belgium across several recent centuries - ought to be dotted with "calvaires".
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calvary_%28sculpture%29
Of course it shouldn't be too hard for me to scratchbuild some. But it would be quicker and easier for me to buy them, if some thoughtful manufacturer made them. (Maybe someone already does? In which case I'd be grateful for pointers.)
My stuff is all 6mm rather than 10mm, so if you do design one/some, please could you make it on the small side so it is suitable for both scales?
Thanks!
Chris
Hi Chris
I'm always open to requests! Although I have a substantial design queue at the moment. :)
It's the same for Austrian and Bavarian battlefields littered with roadside shrines, which have confused quite a few gamers and cartographers into thinking that a cross on a map indicates the location of a church. That's a lot of churches!
When you say not too hard, I don't envy you all that figurative detail.
I haven't yet designed any 6mm but I could design a pretty simple structure without any figurative detail. Otherwise, I could design something more fancy that is includes engraved detail, representing the figurative detail.
Cheers, Michael
I recall someone made one in 15mm, sadly I don't recall who! If you could find it, it would make a good model for copying.
Mollinary
The water trough is superb, I've been looking for 'furnature'.
Now do a nice little fountain for the town square, and a pissoir, and I can do 'Allo 'Allo... :D
Hopefully, that water trough will be the first in a line of hamlet/village/town impedimenta. Great stuff.
I would be up for the Calvary too. I have one using N gauge railway stuff, but it was a real fiddle to do!
A printed sheet of crosses and tombstones, and a base board with holes/slots would be fab!
QuoteI recall someone made one in 15mm, sadly I don't recall who! If you could find it, it would make a good model for copying.
Think it's PeterPig
Malbork,
I think you are right, but I cannot find it on their site.
Mollinary
Just had a look and neither can I, but their Scenery page wouldn't display properly; I got a lot of images overlaid.
I may have made mistake because I saw the heading 57 War memorial although no pic. Might have got thwt mixed up :(
Just found this link to a picture of "Nomandy Sprinkles"
Quotehttp://www.peterpig.co.uk/range%2021%20sprinkles.html
The memorial is included but it's not very clear what it looks like and I doubt it's the Calvary we were thinking of
Is this on sale? I can't find the URL...
Quote from: Wulf on 30 June 2015, 03:39:41 PM
Is this on sale? I can't find the URL...
My tap/trough? I'm getting a little confused with all the discussion about other stuff. :-[
I thought of it yesterday and photographed it today. So I could, potentially, put it up tomorrow if I can settle on a price. Any thoughts?
Mine arrived today.
Thank you.
Looking forwards to making these. Like the email instructions idea too.
Make marvels Michael!
got mine today as well woo hoo :-bd 8)
Thank you Michael very nice looking buildings :)
I like the wavy edged bases, I think they will be good for basing skirmishers in 10mm, it would make them easily identifiable
Looking forwards to making these when I get back from holiday, the email instructions are a good idea
And the pump set looks fun too! Thank you.
Quote from: Wulf on 30 June 2015, 03:39:41 PM
Is this on sale? I can't find the URL...
The Water Tap is now listed on my site for sale:
http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ce10mm.htm (http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ce10mm.htm)
That looks rather spiffy ! 8)
Cheers - Phil
The 10mm scenery is really looking very good. I remember seeing a French guardsman using such a trough in the Mars la Tour panorama.
That's my exact thoughts too!
Great minds eh, Lemmy.
Great idea about bases for skirmishers Smokie, diolch yn fawr.
Received my Central European Townhouse, bridge and cottages last night. Hoping to find time to make a start on these today. The email instuctions are a great idea.
Just hope my painting skills can match the supremelittleness of the buildings!
I based it on a village double tap/double trough from Saarland in a book on German buildings.
I was tempted to engrave kein trinkwasser on it. :d
Quote from: Leman on 01 July 2015, 07:03:47 AM
The 10mm scenery is really looking very good. I remember seeing a French guardsman using such a trough in the Mars la Tour panorama.
That'll be 'im:
(http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/4777/gardegrenad.jpg)
Quote from: WeeWars on 01 July 2015, 10:28:31 AM
I based it on a village double tap/double trough from Saarland in a book on German buildings.
I was tempted to engrave kein trinkwasser on it. :d
Capital 'T'.
Ah yes, that's the man, courtesy of Alphonse de Neuville. Cheers Michael.
Amidst the late-night thunder and lightning and the disappointing World Cup performance, I played around with designing a cocktail-stick Mars la Tour cross. It's 42mm high.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/MLT-Cross-02.jpg)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/MLT-Cross-01.jpg)
Michael, that is "awesome"! :o. Now everyone will want one. My only suggestion would be perhaps to reduce the column height by about 5mm, to make it look "all of a piece" if you know what I mean?
Mollinary
Not everyone will want one - I'd like several!
Lovely job.
Chris
Bloody Big BATTLES!
https://uk.groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/BBB_wargames/info
http://bloodybigbattles.blogspot.co.uk/
Quote from: mollinary on 02 July 2015, 02:27:41 PM
Michael, that is "awesome"! :o. Now everyone will want one. My only suggestion would be perhaps to reduce the column height by about 5mm, to make it look "all of a piece" if you know what I mean?
Mollinary
Thanks! The height would be up to the length of the cocktail stick, which can be cut to taste. The pedestal isn't strong enough so needs redesigning. Would you like the steps and the wall included as part of the base? How large should the base be?
Ok. time to think about putting an order in for the use of the Guard infantry and cuirassiers at Mars la Tour.
Gimme.
Great piece. Thinking of trimming down the pillar for my 6mm FPW. What do you reckon?
Quote from: Subedai on 02 July 2015, 02:42:24 PM
Great piece. Thinking of trimming down the pillar for my 6mm FPW. What do you reckon?
I've got some H&R 6mm. I'll dig them out later today and take a photo of them together.
Yes, definitely will have one of those!
Quote from: WeeWars on 02 July 2015, 02:36:53 PM
Thanks! The height would be up to the length of the cocktail stick, which can be cut to taste. The pedestal isn't strong enough so needs redesigning. Would you like the steps and the wall included as part of the base? How large should the base be?
Personally, I think it would have more uses if you do not include the steps and wall, brilliant though they would look. The column on its own, without any base bigger than that necessary for it to stand up, could be used in a lot more locations.
Best,
Mollinary
Quote from: WeeWars on 02 July 2015, 02:45:04 PM
I've got some H&R 6mm. I'll dig them out later today and take a photo of them together.
That would be great.
Quote from: mollinary on 02 July 2015, 03:16:03 PM
Personally, I think it would have more uses if you do not include the steps and wall, brilliant though they would look. The column on its own, without any base bigger than that necessary for it to stand up, could be used in a lot more locations.
Best,
Mollinary
You could always keep the steps and wall as optional extras, mind you, people who use the laser cut bases could probably knock up their own. Just a thought.
Here's the Mars la Tour cross as it is now.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/MLT-Cross-03.jpg)
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/MLT-Cross-01.jpg)
As the pillar is a cocktail stick (or whatever else you'd rather use), it's up to you the height of the monument. The stick fits through all the steps, so is pretty stable. However, a alternative base can be substituted.
Here's a pic with 6mm figs and a Pendraken 10mm.
Cheers, Michael
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/MLT-Cross-04.jpg)
Very cool
:-bd =D> :-bd =D> :-bd
Really good. Must get one plus a water trough.
:-bd :-bd :-bd =D> =D> =D> =D>
Brilliant! Have to get one.
Mollinary
Very spiffy! When do they hit the store?!
Quote from: toxicpixie on 04 July 2015, 09:10:45 AM
Very spiffy! When do they hit the store?!
Any day now. And I've designed another village tap to add a little more temptation.
Splendid :D
I'm all set to finalise the Mars la Tour cross. As this is not a period I have detailed knowledge of, I'm happy to put it out there one last time in case I've not hit the mark.
I think I've pushed MDF pretty much as far as it can go, especially in relation to what can be threaded onto a cocktail stick! I also have to be pragmatic and keep in mind the limited number of these kits that will potentially sell.
I've perhaps heightened the walls but I had an eye on modellers wanting a generous amount of room to add a layer of grout/paste to the ground level as I have done. I left off getting too carried away with the MiniBits static grass not to obscure the model too much!
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/MLT-Cross-06.jpg)
And Édouard Detaille's original:
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/MLT-Cross-05.jpg)
Cheers, Michael
Fantastic. Not just a production but a painting guide as well.
Quote from: Leman on 05 July 2015, 06:34:40 PM
Fantastic. Not just a production but a painting guide as well.
For the tabletop, I wouldn't bother with the artist's ray of heavenly light, though! ;D
Superb stuff!
:-bd =D> :-bd =D> :-bd
Michael,
That is just superb! Just a thought, but do you think the grey in the painting is simply shadow, at least for the column, if not the base? The base is very interesting, with the chipped areas being much lighter. Either way, I want one, and I want it now! :D :D
Mollinary
That is pretty cool
Quote from: mollinary on 05 July 2015, 07:50:01 PM
Michael,
That is just superb! Just a thought, but do you think the grey in the painting is simply shadow, at least for the column, if not the base? The base is very interesting, with the chipped areas being much lighter. Either way, I want one, and I want it now! :D :D
Mollinary
It's a difficult one, isn't it. The chipped areas are definitely a sandstone colour like the top but wouldn't they be in shadow, too? Perhaps despite allowing the rest of the monument to go to ruin, the locals got up a ladder and gave the crucifix a good scrub! :)
Its very cool - while based on a particular real monument, its the kind of thing that would work for almost any European village or town.
With a different top you could have a fantasy version too?
Quote from: fred 12df on 05 July 2015, 08:40:55 PM
Its very cool - while based on a particular real monument, its the kind of thing that would work for almost any European village or town.
With a different top you could have a fantasy version too?
That's a pretty good idea.
Here's the other 10mm public tap I promised – with an inscription in Latin. It's designed to be part of a wall or can stand against a wall.
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/north-european/water/NE-10mm-01-Water-Tap-01.jpg)
Based on this village tap:
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/north-european/water/water-tap-1853.jpg)
I gave into temptation and changed the year to one of my favourites :D The final version should allow the model to be used in the earliest possible period. How early do we need to go?
Cheers, Michael
Lovely model, but I do love the warning sign on the photo :D
Again another superb model.
Quote from: Steve J on 06 July 2015, 07:13:30 AM
Lovely model, but I do love the warning sign on the photo :D
Elf and safety...... ;)
One of these, one of the 'other' tap and one of the first tap please!
Anyone want to use it for English Civil War? It could be dated 1642.
Quote from: Steve J on 06 July 2015, 07:13:30 AM
Lovely model, but I do love the warning sign on the photo :D
I love the contrast with the inscription ;D
Since everyone's going gaga about taps, I offer the first fruits of this morning's idleness:
The 10mm tap is on sale now:
http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ne10mm.htm (http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ne10mm.htm)
Cheers, Michael
The 10mm monument and tap are on sale now:
http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ce10mm.htm (http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/ce10mm.htm)
Remember to refresh the page if you've visited recently.
The other 10mm tap is available on the North European page.
Cheers, Michael
Ordered both! :)
Ordered, along with one tap and a couple of pairs of cottages.
Mollinary
Put an order in for cross, pump and some buildings for the 50 project.
Thanks, gents! I shall get cutting tomorrow – with a break for the Murray match! Hopefully will catch the post on Saturday.
Payday next week... but PayPal's not real money...
Ngh. Must. Resist. Cutting tomorrow, you say?
Paydays a long way off but the monument, both taps and the new shed will be on my payday shopping list ;)
When will Belle Alliance be available?
And theres a lovely looking plank bridge on the site... is this available?
Quote from: WeeWars on 05 July 2015, 06:09:55 PM
I'm all set to finalise the Mars la Tour cross. As this is not a period I have detailed knowledge of, I'm happy to put it out there one last time in case I've not hit the mark.
I think I've pushed MDF pretty much as far as it can go, especially in relation to what can be threaded onto a cocktail stick! I also have to be pragmatic and keep in mind the limited number of these kits that will potentially sell.
I've perhaps heightened the walls but I had an eye on modellers wanting a generous amount of room to add a layer of grout/paste to the ground level as I have done. I left off getting too carried away with the MiniBits static grass not to obscure the model too much!
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/MLT-Cross-06.jpg)
And Édouard Detaille's original:
(http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/images/nap10mm/central-european/MLT-Cross-05.jpg)
Cheers, Michael
Extremely impressive to say the least.
Take care
Andy
very nice indeed
Take care
Andy
Lovely, well done Sir
Got a load of stuff in, and they are indeed lovely (especially the bridges!), but I do have one real issue: I was sent assembly instructions by email. While not strictly necessary anyway, if these are instructions needed for the minis, they should come, printed, with the product.
The thatch looks interesting - some of the thinnest carpet underlay I've seen :D
Looks great Michael, 10mm cool!