Can someone tell me if there's a difference between FLESH and FLESHTONE in the Vallejo range? I'm having big problems with two of my Vallejo paints, Model Color 815 Basic Skintone & Sunny Skintone (label damaged, can't read the number). Neither covers at all well, but both bottles are well over half full, so I'd rather not buy new bottles & find the replacements are no different...
I was thinking the Tones are different, and provide less colour, but then I realised I have two bottles of 860, one 860 Medium Flesh, one 860 Medium Fleshtone...
To be honest I find 018, Flat Flesh, to be best for European skin and 019, Dark Flesh, for N.African and Middle Eastern skin.
Yes, annoyingly, I seem to have a half dozen pots of flesh colours, but no Flat Flesh.
You don't know about the question of a difference between "Flesh" and "Fleshtone" though?
I've got 017 Basic Skintone which I never use now because I discovered Flat flesh. I find Basic Skintone too light. Some Vallejo colours seem to require an inordinate amount of shaking before they will give up the part which enhances opacity.
Interested to note that the Sakura acrylics I use no longer produce a "flesh tone"; it's now called "light orange", which I must say I prefer.
What you need is Vallejo Heavy Skintone, it's an extra opaque (pigment heavy) will cover in one coat easily. I feel like a Vallejo rep, this is the second post in a minute were I've pushed Vallejo Extra Opaques, but they are fantastic.
Quote from: Mickey Sims on 10 September 2014, 09:09:48 PM
What you need is Vallejo Heavy Skintone
I do use that now, having got my Vallejo flesh paints into a bit more order. However, I've also discovered the Foundry flesh paint ranges, specifically the African tones, and will be trying their Caucasian colours sometime (although only 3 of the 6...)
Quote from: Wulf on 11 August 2014, 10:58:46 PM
...but then I realised I have two bottles of 860, one 860 Medium Flesh, one 860 Medium Fleshtone...
If the code number is the same then it's the same paint, just a different name on the label. They have tweaked the names of some of the paints here and there, but the code numbers have always remained the same as far as I'm aware. Sometimes they have a RAL code on the label as well, which is the universal code for the pigment makeup. If that matches then they're identical.
Quote from: Leon on 10 September 2014, 10:19:25 PMSometimes they have a RAL code on the label as well, which is the universal code for the pigment makeup.
Slightly diverting my own topic here, but I misread that at first as RLM... which reminds me, what's the best Vallejo colour for RLM02? From those available via Pendraken, please (no Panzer Colors).
I use Vallejo 955.
I use Coat d'arms flesh, coz I'm sad like that... ;)
That makes two of us then, Will. Flesh and Sunburned Flesh are my standbys.
Still using Vallejo Flat Flesh over Burnt Umber.
Quote from: Dour Puritan on 12 August 2014, 10:11:01 AM
I've got 017 Basic Skintone which I never use now because I discovered Flat flesh. I find Basic Skintone too light. Some Vallejo colours seem to require an inordinate amount of shaking before they will give up the part which enhances opacity.
Store them upside down. Just make sure you have a needle or peice of wire handy before squeezing.
IanS
Have you come across their new extra opaque Game Colours yet?
I was thinking the Tones are different, and provide less colour, but then I realised I have two bottles of 860, one 860 Medium Flesh, one 860 Medium Fleshtone...
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I usually use Vallejo 70.860 Medium Fleshtone for all European types and have had no problem, though I undercoat with white - just shake well. Some pigments particularly 'yellows' are less opaque than others. I used 70.815 Basic Skintone for my ECW figures, which did look a bit on the pink side at first but once washed over was fine.
Try using Flat Flesh.
It goes nicely with a bottle of Chianti.... I'm told.
... and some fava beans?
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D