Undercoating without spraying

[Last Hussar]

Does anyone undercoat with out spraying?

How do I do it?

[mmcv]

Yeah I would use paint on primer most of the time. Lately I've mostly been using this one:

https://www.pendraken.co.uk/black-primer-60ml-6544-p.asp

But I do sometimes use grey shade ones too.

Just make sure you use an old brush as it can dry in hard if you don't rinse well enough. I use a fairly big brush, the primer is somewhat thin so you can blob it on fairly heavily and by the time it's dried it's formed a nice thin coat.

Unless I've misunderstood the question...

[WeeWars]

I can't remember using a spray primer since 2014 when I bought my first brush-on primer. 

http://www.michaelscott.name/1809/blog2015/1809blogpost172.htm

I use a number of browns and greys. Works perfectly. Avoid touching the miniature once primed as the primer can rub off. 

In use here:

228 : Contrast Paints – Supreme Littleness Designs Projects

[hammurabi70]

Does anyone undercoat with out spraying?

How do I do it?

I have never undercoated using spray.  Normal style is to use black or white to cover the model first: white for individuals and black for equipment.  Using acrylics you might like to thin with some water.

[Steve J]

I trialled using GW Black paint straight onto the bare metal this past week, having seen a Little Wars TV video on painting 10mm figures. Whilst not as durable as spray primer, it has worked perfectly well so far and I can't see any problems going forward as I always pick up units by their bases. It also has the huge advantage of not wasting paint (30% or more of the spray is simply wasted) as well as none of the terribly toxic fumes which means spraying outside.

For vehicles I will continue to use spray primer, but might try and 'proper' brush on primer at some point in the future.

[sultanbev]

Never spray undercoat, it always misses parts, undercuts between legs/wheels, etc. Brush all the way. Only undercoat in enamels too, Humbrol are still great.

I do use spray varnish to finish.

[Ithoriel]

I only use brush on undercoat in extremis. Usually because the weather is so awful that spraying outside is unlikely to be possible any time soon and I have a deadline or occasionally because I've taken the blighters outside to undercoat them only to have the rattle can give a brief blerp of paint followed by a brief hiss of escaping propellant and the rest is silence.

I find I miss just as much, or even more, of the figure with a brush as I do with the can. Spraying is far faster too.

Big brush and white, grey or black paint to choice and Robert is your mother's brother!

[Last Hussar]

Is there a particular kind of paint I should try with? I use acrylic,  should I use it as is, or water down?

[Ithoriel]

I use Vallejo acrylics neat to begin with then slightly thinned in a vain attempt to get it to flow into all the nooks and crannies.

Spray or brush there always seems to be somewhere I've missed but since it's never on a surface that is likely to get handled I cover bald spots as I paint the figure.

[fsn]

May I ask why you want to undercoat without spraying?

The thought of undercoating by brush puts a cold shiver up my spine.

(See!)

Granted I am a high volume - low quality painter, but never had any problem with coverage or surface from rattle cans. I'd use an air brush, but rattle cans are so much more convenient.

[jimduncanuk]

Having only been in the hobby for 50+ years I can honestly say I have never sprayed a primer or an undercoat.

I always brush on the first coat of whatever it is and only use a spray for a final protective coat, gloss or matt varnish.

[Ithoriel]

I've been spray painting the undercoats for my figures since the late 70's, I just wish I'd discovered the idea sooner.

My first use of spray paint was in 1964 when I spray painted my Airfix Julius Caesar figure, all six or so inches of him, with gloss red paint. Then brush painted his face and arms bright gloss pink and the gold detailing a garish gloss yellow.

Some might feel my painting hasn't improved much

[Last Hussar]

The reason for not spraying is very mundane.
I am now in a 2nd floor flat, and the only downside (apart from distance to my Regular) is spraying is now difficult.

[fsn]

Oh dear. I am genuinely sorry.

Have you considered a spray booth?

[Ben Waterhouse]

I use brush on primer, the Vallejo ones mentioned above in white.

[FierceKitty]

I am now in a 2nd floor flat, and the only downside (apart from distance to my Regular, and lurching back up the stairs after closing time....)

Omission corrected.

[DecemDave]

FWIW
Having tried various methods over the years, I seem to have settled on Krylon spray (grey) for soft 1/72 plastics because it creates a surface less prone to flaking but brushed on Liquitex Gesso for 10mm metals. This last was a tip from another forumite (Thanks!) as it shrinks into the figure.  Black with grey drybrush after helps to create black lines and hide anything you miss but I use white for horses (then wash/ink over for fast results).

I am also impressed with speed/contrast paints for 1/72.  Not tried them on 10mm yet.  Have finally disciplined myself to paint one project at a time.  Not sure how well they would work over black in 10mm because they can pool blackish anyway. But the good news is that I no longer feel the need to brush on that AP "tone" crap quickshade which highlights the detail but makes everything look muddy.

I also live in 2nd floor flat but have the luxury of a balcony for spraying .  And a lift for lurching.

[DHautpol]

Years ago I tried the GW Black but found it too smooth, such that it felt that you were dragging the paint about the surface rather than having settle where the brush had passed.

I have for many years, used Liquitex Black Gesso under GW paints.  As mentioned the gesso shrinks on to the figures, so even relatively thick applications dry very tightly with the detail clearly visible.  It sometimes shrinks away in places but these can be touched in easily.

It also has "tooth" which means that although it appears to have dried to a very smooth finish, it actually has an invisible roughness which allows it to grip the paint as you apply it.

Gesso is available from suppliers of artists' materials.  It comes in black, grey and white and is used to prepare canvases.

[John Cook]

The reason for not spraying is very mundane.
I am now in a 2nd floor flat, and the only downside (apart from distance to my Regular) is spraying is now difficult.

Aerosol sprays are hit and miss, literally, as they often don't cover fully.  You also can't use them indoors because of the toxic fumes they give-off and that is a real problem for you, living as you do in a flat (every cloud has a silver lining and you don't have a lawn to mow).  In general terms, the main problem is that if you spray too far away with an aerosol the paint dries in flight and you can be left with a grainy effect on the surface.  I had this happen with over 200 SCW figures and spent a very long time soaking them in various different chemicals from meths to white spirit before using cellulose thinners and a metal brush.  Never again.   Aerosols are also not very good environmentally speaking.  So, this is my solution these days.  Thin some ordinary acrylic white paint, Vallejo is fine, about 25% water and apply with a large brush about, a No 8 or larger.  Mine is so old I can't see the size but it is about as big as my thumb (still talking about the brush )  It takes no longer than spraying them and can be done indoors as it produces no fumes. This is the primer onto which the undercoat/top coat will key and it also reveals any imperfection missed during prep.   You can then apply an undercoat if you need to, I prefer white as I find black just dulls the top coat, particularly if it is a colour like yellow or red which are pigment-challenged, and I've never seen the point of black anyway.  Usually, though, I just apply a under/top coat of the principal colour at this stage, one coat is usually enough, thinned a little so it fills the nooks and crannies and lets the highlights show through.  Then I'll give the figures a wash of Vallejo sepia, thinned about 50/50.  Then highlight and finally apply a matt varnish, again by brush.  Aerosol varnishes have issues all their own and also can't be applied indoors for exactly the same reason as aerosol paints.  Lately, though, I've been using an airbrush to prime and this might be your solution to spraying indoors.  You can use ordinary Vallejo acrylic Model Colour but you must thin it, about 50/50, as it isn't really intended for airbrushing.  About 30psi seems fine.  Alternatively use Vallejo Model Air which is intended for airbrushing.  Advantages of the airbrush are that it is quick, but mainly, and this is important for you, is that it can be applied indoors as it doesn't produce fumes, it is unaffected by drying in flight issues and you can apply it very accurately.  The only downside I can think of is the initial investment.  Give an airbrush a go - very good on vehicles. 

[Corso]

After messing up my first few 10mm's with too many layers I prime by brush with whatever the main colour is going to be, I then add a single layer of additional colours, wash and re apply the first layer as a highlight then selectively highlight a few areas