Gluing figures to bases

[industrialtrousers]

I generally use some UHU-like contact glue from Wilko. It gives you time to change your mind if you get a bit punchy and find you've stuck the opposition on by mistake or a moment's inattention. when that's dry I just fill in any gaps with a thin layer of plasticine and paint sand/flock.

[Noktu]

I use a large flat file to steam through the bases, and apply Loctite 60sec gel (20g tube).

The gel superglue lets you position the wonky ones quite nicely. You get those sometimes even with all the filing

[Terry37]

Late to the party here, but I use plain old Elmer's White Glue. It does a nice job of holding the figure, with just enough give if needed, but mainly so if the element were dropped hopefully the figure(s) will pop off rather than break. Have only had it happen one time and thankfully the figures popped right off. Not sure that would happen if I used a super glue type.

Terry

[Leman]

Well I've just learnt something the hard way. I usually temporarily fix my figures to a wooden rod using Copydex. For a change I tried pennies only to discover, when I came to remove them, that Copydex reacts with coin metal so that it doesn't actually set but remains a sticky mess.

[FierceKitty]

Ahem... my coat please...

Thought parrot to parrot was Polly cement?

No, Pollyfiller.

[Lord Kermit of Birkenhead]

That's terrible, take your sh*t off and get out !!!

[fsn]

Well I've just learnt something the hard way. I usually temporarily fix my figures to a wooden rod using Copydex. For a change I tried pennies only to discover, when I came to remove them, that Copydex reacts with coin metal so that it doesn't actually set but remains a sticky mess.

That is an experiment I am going to try! 

[Leman]

Why would you want somebody to take their shirt off, unless it was Iggy Pop.

[Zippee]

Well I've just learnt something the hard way. I usually temporarily fix my figures to a wooden rod using Copydex. For a change I tried pennies only to discover, when I came to remove them, that Copydex reacts with coin metal so that it doesn't actually set but remains a sticky mess.

trust me leave it for a year and the copydex sets  - sets like some kind of wonderous space age technology wonder-glue. it's a quite bizarre reaction but i can't get them orcs of them coins, no matter what I try, saoked 'em, heated 'em, used power tools - short of melting the whole thing down the two are essentially one now (actually they'd still be one if I melted them down but . . .)

[Womble67]

I used to use two part epoxy but I swapped to superglue due to speed. However I do occasionally use PVA if I want time to move the figures about.

Take care

Andy

[lowlylowlycook]

Hmmmm, when I did my portable Kings of War set I found that the textured medium I used for the bases was enough to stick the minis down.

[mmcv]

I had to reglue a few of the glue gun 10mm figs after flocking the bases, though I suspect that was just from the glue not being hit enough on my first batch as the rest are fine.

For the 2mm I've been sticking figures with super glue, then PVA over the base followed by a fine sand, then primer, paint, flock etc.

Though having a hard time not getting sand all over the figs so textured medium might be something worth investigating.

https://imgur.com/a/IZEkQcH

Overdid the shrubbery a bit in these so need to pare it back a bit.

[Leman]

I find Winsor and Newton Modelling Paste, painted and dry brushed in greens and buffs avoids causing the figures to disappear - 3mm ACW

[mmcv]

Picked up a bottle of high density modeling paste to give it a go. I've already used all my 25mm bases and haven't really anything else but 2mm in the lead hillock at present, so will have to wait until my order from Leon arrives this week to try out.

[mmcv]

Tried out the modelling paste, after about six hours the 2mm were firmly fixed in and textured, will have to paint up and see how it looks.

The 10mm didn't quite hold the model, not sure if I needed more paste or it's just not strong enough. Or I didn't leave to dry for enough time. Nice base texture though.

[steve_holmes_11]

I had never come across modeling paste, but on checking it looks like Artex for the arts and crafts hobbyist.

Is it essentially the same stuff as those textured basing paints, but without the pigment?

[mmcv]

No sure as I've never used texture paints but suspect it's similar. The one I got was white but there did seem to be colours available. It starts off quite light and creamy like a shaving cream but firms up with a little bit if texture and paints up nicely when dry.

[John Cook]

I used textured paints in my 15mm days, back in the 1980s, I can't remember the make though.  I do remember they were quite pricey and didn't go a very long way.  They were certainly effective. 

There is another, cheaper, solution.  About 20 years ago I had an extension built at the rear of my house.  The builder left behind an almost empty bag of Hanson Sand and Cement Mix, the kind used for laying bricks.  I found it worked perfectly for all kinds of basing, and other terrain-making tasks.  There was enough to fill a half-litre plastic container and when it was gone I bought a 5kg bag of the stuff from Wickes, for a less than £5 as I remember, which I've been using for at least 15 years.  It is not even half empty yet.  You can add poster paint to colour it, dry or ready mixed, to produce a textured paint, though I hardly ever bother as the mix dries to an earth colour. 

I usually use plasticard bases and fix the figures with superglue, PVA glue if I'm using MDF.   The base is then painted with a fairly thick layer of PVA, slightly thinned, enough to cover the bases of the figures, and dipped into a container of the Sand and Cement mix.  The PVA is damp enough to cure the mix and you can work it while it is still damp.  I apply a second coat of the mix if I need to, which isn't very often.  Once dry it can be painted but I have hardly ever found that necessary.  I just dress it as appropriate for the region in question.