Hearts of Oak (well MDF...)

[Orcs]

If you want to try an airbrush out on the wooden men come round and try with mine

[Last Hussar]

Cheers. It's more do I have to be outside, due to being in a 2nd floor flat. I'll only use it for undercoat,  so just a cheap one will be fine.

Going to try to remember to look tomorrow.

[Last Hussar]

So, what green for the Russians? Compared to blue, would it be a mid, like French blue,  or are we talking more Prussian Blue as a shade (but obviously green!)

If anybody has a Pantone number as a suggestion,  that would be grand.

[John Cook]

So, what green for the Russians? Compared to blue, would it be a mid, like French blue,  or are we talking more Prussian Blue as a shade (but obviously green!)

If anybody has a Pantone number as a suggestion,  that would be grand.

French uniform jackets are Imperial/National Blue which is a dark blue.  I use Vallejo Dark Prussian Blue.  I haven't painted a Russians myself but the green of Russian uniforms was also very dark.

[Last Hussar]

I thought so. Going to need a dark green. A little worried; I'm thinking historically accurate may be too dark on 8mm figures.

[Steve J]

You will need to go a shade or two lighter to make the green look right, based upon experience. On smaller figures, including 10mm, bright colours work especially when viewed at gaming distances, as otherwise they look very dark and at times almost black.

[Duke Speedy of Leighton]

I base coated the 6mm Russians I did with 'Russian Green', black wash, highlighted with 'Army Green'.

[Last Hussar]

What's Russian Green and army Green, as in which ranges?

I won't be washing, there's no real folds, just score marks to outline belts and divisions,  eg the waist, and to define the legs and arms. Don't know if this can be seen on the photos. I use the thinnest fibre tip art pen, staedtler fineliner I think, in these grooves. The cross straps will just be a white paint pen, I won't outline these.

Anybody know roughly what the "Pantone code" would be?

Plan is to undercoat white, then put a cover (such as masking tape) at waist level to do the jackets. Then faces/hair, then shako/boots/pack. Finish with red for cuffs and collar/shoulders. I might give non red shoulders a go.

[John Cook]

What's Russian Green and army Green, as in which ranges?

Anybody know roughly what the "Pantone code" would be?

Those would be Vallejo shades

I've looked at a Pantone chart on-line and I would think you'd need something like Pantone 350, or darker.  All I can really tell you is that the green of Russian jackets was a pure green, more so than British rifles, dark and definitely not an olive shade.

I would think that the techniques with your figures are quite different from full three dimensional figures, perhaps more like painting flats, though those require a lot of shading to pull it off, so I'm not sure.

[Last Hussar]

The plan is to visit HobbyCraft to see if they have any green dark enough.

In the meantime I've painted 200 40x20 bases, and started labelling the Corps label bases.

To be honest, this is probably displacement activity to find reasons not to start painting...

[Last Hussar]

Delayed update.

The bases were finished a few weeks ago. While I wait for the weather to improve so I can go to the nearby open space to spray I have been labelling the Corps bases - 1 corps in a session when I remember.

Must get down Hobbycraft to see if they have a dark enough green for the uniforms. Currently under consideration is spraying all green, then painting white trousers on top. With the French and Austrians it made sense to undercoat white and paint the French blue jackets on, given the white lapels.

[hammurabi70]

Has anyone tried ANTONINE MINIATURES?  Got an opinion on them?

[Orcs]

Has anyone tried ANTONINE MINIATURES?  Got an opinion on them?

I saw a demo game at SELWG put on by Two fat Lardies using his figure blocks. I was less than impressed.

They looked like blocks with raised braille type dots on them. Personally I think you might as well use  counters or kriegspiel blocks. The board games by GMT are visually more impressive,  they look better than these figure blocks.

If you want small figures to game very large actions I would use Irregular Miniatures 2mm figures - they at least look like figures when painted. Nik on this forum painted the ones on the Irregular miniatures site, and they are impressive.

There is a good site on how to paint them:-
https://sidneyroundwood.blogspot.com/2016/07/painting-tips-for-2mm-figures-and-armies.html

I am sure some one will come along saying they are the best thing since sliced bread, each to his own.
 

[Ithoriel]

I have quite a few Antonine Miniatures though as with most of my collections the bulk are as yet unpainted,

I use a mix of Irregular Miniatures 2mm, 3D printed 2mm and Antonine Miniatures for Strength and Honour.

My Rorarii and Numidian cavalry are Antonine.

I quite like them. Each to their own though.

Images of my Strength and Honour stuff is here - https://imageshack.com/a/icUW7/1

An image below of the army of Pompous Magnus on the march. Numidians by Antonine at front and rear. First legion is Irregular Miniatures, second to fourth and the elephants are 3D printed. The Ballistarii are 6mm Baccus engines with Irregular figures as crew.

Pompous Magnus is, of course, well known for his intervention in the Werarvii civil war occasioned by the tribal chieftain and noble Friend of Rome, Ouitabix, being ousted by his dastardly younger brother Eautibix.

[Duke Speedy of Leighton]

Wow nice!