Urbancohort has started this painting thread and is keeping it wholly clear of apostrophes although it is all about his painting skills developing.

Started by urbancohort, 28 March 2017, 08:58:05 AM

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urbancohort

Perhaps someone can advise... I am using matt acrylics, and matt varnish... why do I get shiny patches whilst avoiding getting white patches from too thick layers of the latter?

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urbancohort

Here is the final article. I used Citadel Middenland Tufts to try and recreate the sort of sedge grass (? Not a botanist I am afraid) that might be found in a rather boggy area like the Somerset levels in 1685. Used a dark ink to try to stain the painted sand a bit darker. Now to start on some flintlock/matchlock men and grenadiers.

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Duke Speedy of Leighton

Very nice work on that whole base.
I was not trying to be a grammar nut, sorry, just the apostrophes stop replies.

Sorry
You may refer to me as: Your Grace, Duke Speedy of Leighton.
2016 Pendraken Painting Competion Participation Prize  (Lucky Dip Catagory) Winner

urbancohort

Quote from: mad lemmey on 28 March 2017, 07:55:26 PM
Very nice work on that whole base.
I was not trying to be a grammar nut, sorry, just the apostrophes stop replies.

Sorry
No apologies required! I went to Grammar school and am quite anal about it!

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toxicpixie

Finished article looks great!

I like a spray varnish tbh and haven't had a problem with shiny puddling - some Matt  varnishes are matter than others though...

Another technique I like is similar to Fred's suggestion. A light undercoat (white, sometimes gray, sometimes the base colour if it's not too dark), then block paint and use a wash (magic or "proper" depending on taste) to shade.
I provide a cheap, quick painting service to get you table top quality figures ready to roll - www.facebook.com/jtppainting

urbancohort

So, I now also have the first stand of matchlock men to go with the pikemen. Have adapted my technique and based the next batch in black paint.
One should try everything in life, except for incest and folk-dancing....

O Dinas Powys

Quote from: urbancohort on 28 March 2017, 07:50:52 PM
Here is the final article. I used Citadel Middenland Tufts to try and recreate the sort of sedge grass (? Not a botanist I am afraid) that might be found in a rather boggy area like the Somerset levels in 1685.

Just for the record: sedges are sedges; grasses are grasses; (and rushes are rushes)  :-B

They look pretty effective to me :-bd

Botanically yours  ;)

Meirion
(I know, even though it's fantasy  :o  ;)  )

toxicpixie

Looks good to me! How did you find it - think they're "crisper" for less work, or harder, or... ?
I provide a cheap, quick painting service to get you table top quality figures ready to roll - www.facebook.com/jtppainting

urbancohort

Quote from: O Dinas Powys on 14 April 2017, 09:14:48 PM
Just for the record: sedges are sedges; grasses are grasses; (and rushes are rushes)  :-B

They look pretty effective to me :-bd

Botanically yours  ;)

Meirion
Every day a school day! I learned something new!

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urbancohort

Quote from: toxicpixie on 14 April 2017, 09:26:59 PM
Looks good to me! How did you find it - think they're "crisper" for less work, or harder, or... ?
All I really know is:
1) there is a point when the main colours are on the figure and it is looking truly pants and I want to give up and take up needlework.
2) the figures look better to my eye than the photos show.
3) I am and always have been a looney perfectionist so unless all my figs look like Clib's I won't be happy with them..

Don't know I would describe my efforts as 'crisp' but I think that the high quality of the castings helps.  As I said, I have painted the next batch black as per advice given earlier on this forum.

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urbancohort

One should try everything in life, except for incest and folk-dancing....

Norm

Quote from: urbancohort on 14 April 2017, 10:05:34 PM
All I really know is:

2) the figures look better to my eye than the photos show.


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And that is what matters most. Digital photography can be unkind, especially as out kit and software tends to over sharpen pictures, white balance is seldom spot on and we end up looking at enlarged versons on our screens of things that are not intended to beviewed in that way.

I think you should be pretty pleased with your results.

I have been thinkingof late that I actually spend too much time painting all the detail on 10's / 12's and that I should take a more care-free approach to painting, to get the benefits of 'mass' and faster production that the scale brings.

urbancohort

I have been thinkingof late that I actually spend too much time painting all the detail on 10's / 12's and that I should take a more care-free approach to painting, to get the benefits of 'mass' and faster production that the scale brings.
[/quote]

I know what you mean! I read somewhere that at 300ms ( I think) all that would truly be distinguishable woukd be the coat. However, it has to be said, one of the things I like about the LofA era and 'lace wars' is the gorgeous uniforms of the period. It is part of the draw.

Of course, another issue accuracy wise is colour. Yes, all the British Army wore red coats but pre-industrial processes, how uniform could that be? Anything from light brown to almost white pink would seem to be arguable?


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toxicpixie

What Norm said, in triplicate :)

As I'm in the middle of some big jobs my "personal" stuff is getting very minimal treatment and is currently an experiment in speed over technique ;)
I provide a cheap, quick painting service to get you table top quality figures ready to roll - www.facebook.com/jtppainting

urbancohort

A bad workman blames his tools, but I have noticed my brushes tend to get a bit frayed and that interferes with a crisp, clean paint job. I am using a feldherr paintbrush, anyone recommend a brand or suggest any way of dealing with the fraying please?

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d_Guy

urban,

I use Windsor & Newton Series 7 Sable brushes which are pricey but hold up really well. I rinse them out well then "point" them with my lips (I am too old to worry much about toxins :-) ) then store them with their protective point covers (little tubes). I use them just for the color blocking.  Old ratty brushes for everything else (washes, dry brushing, etc)

I clean them occasionally with this stuff which seems to help keep them like new.
Granted, my brushes are probably used only six to ten hours a week.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492297419&sr=8-4&keywords=The+Masters+Brush+Cleaner


Hope this helps.
Encumbered by Idjits, we pressed on

urbancohort

It does, many thanks! Happy Easter! G

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Ithoriel

I buy lots of cheap brushes and the occasional expensive ones. Both are trashed in less than a month of a regular, painting every day, painting binge.

The main thing that extends the life of my brushes is my other passion ... MMORPGs.

If I'm not painting I'm not ruining brushes!! :)
There are 100 types of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who can work from incomplete data

urbancohort

Started on the grenadier company for a bit of diversion..

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urbancohort

One should try everything in life, except for incest and folk-dancing....