Order arrived-now to paint them!?

[CarlLeyland]

Hi Guys,

My orders from Pendraken arrived and I have to say......oh, they are small.

Of course that is the attraction to this scale but I now realise how easy some have you have been making this look! The WW1 Russians are based and ready to recieve some attention but I worry that they will be a jot more difficult than anticipated. 3 figures on a 30mm square base seemed to look like real open order to me, no bunching up with automatic weapons trained on you.

Any hints or tips would be appreciated, I have read a few how to's but they all seem to refer to more colourful periods.

Cheers

[Subedai]

It all depends on your painting style and method in other scales, you may try to adapt your usual method but it doesn't always work. I -like some others- nearly always use a black undercoat and blocked on bright colours -usually a shade lighter than in real life so they stand out a bit and always use light rather than dark coloured bases as this will also enhance your figures. In relation to their larger cousins, 10mm are a hell of a sight easier and quicker to paint, but that only means you will get more of them quicker!

[Leman]

Always happy to help. With my first batches of Russians I used Vallejo Greenstone with a wash of Army Painter soft tone ink. Like most figures start at the inside and work your way out. I usually start with faces - base coat of brown, e.g. Vallejo Beige Brown, then high points with Vallejo Sunny Tone Flesh. Some painters swear by white undercoat and some by black. It's a matter of taste, but what a lot don't do, which I think is essential, is to PRIME, which is different from undercoating. I use Vallejo White Primer, then undercoat using ordinary white or black paint. Use good quality brushes as well, such as Windsor and Newton series seven.



Not my greatest photo but you get the idea.

[Ithoriel]

Unlike Leman, I never prime figures and I start with the main colours and add things like hands and faces as almost the last things painted. I use a black undercoat, paint things lighter than they will end up and use ink washes to get most of the shading done, picking up highlights again afterwards.

I trash brushes regularly so use cheaper ones rather than the likes of Windsor & Newton.

Main thing I would say is try a few variations and see what works for you. Black, White and Grey are all used as undercoats by people and good results are possible with all of them, for example.

Lighter shades than you'd use on bigger figures and the effectiveness of lighter bases I would agree with though.

[Fenton]

After many years of using black and then grey undercoat I have now moved onto brown.lI use the AP brown then block in colours quick wash in AP strong tone ink then a very quick highlight in the original block colour and I'm done

I find using brown really speeds up the painting horses and leather items

[CarlLeyland]

Hey thanks for this!

The lighter base and base coat is a great tip, the picture helped as well. I usually use a black base so I will stick with that and crack on with your tips in mind. I will see how these  first batch turn out and then maybe order some (I have this big list already) more.

Can I ask what do you use for buildings? I read previously that 6mm was used and now this seems to make sense! I do hope they turn out OK because I purchased "Triumph of the Will" which looks like it would be perfect for this scale.

Thanks again, this forum is really helpful.

[Ithoriel]

I will fess up now to being the resident grouch who cannot abide 6mm terrain with 10mm figures. I do not like to have my troops fighting for possession of wendy houses

Reduced footprint 10mm is my preferred option for those who can imagine that 24 figures are a battalion of 600 men but can't get their heads around the idea that therefore a house represents a hamlet.

Personally i use 10mm scale terrain with 10mm figures.

As ever, whatever you're happy with is fine, it's your game after all.

Thanks again, this forum is really helpful.

I would say that as a group the forum members are well read, well informed, well intentioned and well crazy

[CarlLeyland]

Haha love it Mr Grouch. Yes I probably agree that when I see a 15mm house being used with 20mm figures I feel sick....I know what you mean. Any good resin 10mm scenery that I may have missed?

[Duke Speedy of Leighton]

Timecast

[CarlLeyland]

Never looked for buildings as I always scratch built them for 28mm.....looking at Timecast now thanks

[Ithoriel]

Pendraken do a range of buildings, though it's being revamped so several items are out of stock.

Hovels (http://www.hovelsltd.co.uk/) and Total Battle Miniatures (http://www.pendraken.co.uk/Total-Battle-Miniatures-c33/ or http://www.totalbattleminiatures.com/index.html) have some good 10mm items too.

[Tawa]

Timecast

*yoink!* 

[Leman]

Try these:



10mm buildings.



6mm buildings

[Techno]

Very useful comparison piccy's , 'Bob'.

Cheers - Phil

[Womble67]

Personally i use 10mm scale terrain with 10mm figures.

As ever, whatever you're happy with is fine, it's your game after all.

Totally agree with those comments

Take care

Andy