How to apply washes to 10mm

[Subedai]

Magic wash works very well as a top coat, but it is not flat matt. If that does not bother you (and it hasn't bothered me in the past) then it does a very good job. I find the black magic wash makes much more of a difference than the brown.

True, but then again I give all my chaps a coat of matt varnish at the end anyway so it doesn't matter. I think it depends on what you are washing on what colour to use. Browns, reds, flesh and yelllow I use the brown, whilst for blue I use black. Plus it depends on how much brown is in your wash.

[Fenton]

I use the magic was method myself. Works well with 10mm

[Womble67]

All I do is paint on all the  basecoat colours. Give a generous application of shading wash of GW Agrax Earthshade (brown colour). Use the basecoat colours, or a highlight colour to pick out the detail. That's the method I use for any and all scales.   

Thats exactly how I do it

Take care

Andy

[Orcs]

If washes are so important to wargamers why is it when you go to shows there seems to be quite a few wagamers that use washes but don't wash!!!  

[Shecky]

I've experimented with a number of wash/dip methods for 10mm and have pretty much settled on one limited method. I only use a dark flesh wash, I think it's Citadel, on the face and hands of my figures. Otherwise I just use a black primer, apply the block colors and highlight. For horses, I paint them any shade of light brown or tan then use a brown wash to darken the horse before painting the rider, reins and saddlecloth.

[Techno]

Just as a matter of interest....And to go marginally off topic.

Do folk wash (as in, clean) their figures before painting/spraying on an undercoat ?

When I start slapping on the putty, I find the greenstuff sticks more easily to a metal dolly if I've given it a quick clean with 'thinned' washing up liquid (and a really old, splayed brush.)
If I've used Dr Emmel on a figure that I'm converting, the same thing applies, otherwise I get lots of tiny metal shards mixed in with the putty.

Cheers - Phil

[Duke Speedy of Leighton]

Nope

[Subedai]

Me neither. used to wash plastics but never metals.

[chalkie]

I've only washed plastics.

[Roy]

Washing miniatures:

Yes, but only resin stuff or 28mm miniatures that really need a good paint job.
If I'm going to convert the 28s, using green stuff, I will wash the model first.

Hot, soapy water. Toothbrush (not electric) to gently scrub the miniature. Pat dry on a towel, once cleaned. Placed over a radiator on a piece of kitchen roll to properly dry for a number of hours.
If resin: I'll then coat the whole model in pva (white) glue to seal the surface prior to priming with paint.

Its surprising how different a metal miniature looks after washing. Brighter for a start, and at the bottom of the wash basin can be seen the oils and dirt the miniature carried from when it was cast and packaged. So it does actually make a difference, I've found. Just whether its worth it, if all you're doing is slapping on some paint, is debatable - I know I don't wash every figure.   

[Orcs]

I wash plastics and resin, but not metal figures.

[Leman]

Sometimes I wash figures, but I always wash resin scenic items, especially the rubbery ones from TBM.
Thanks for the tip on PVA with resin items.

[paulr]

I always wash all figures

[Womble67]

I occasionally wash metal figures if they feel greasy otherwise I just slap paint on

Take care

Andy

[FierceKitty]

Even with its enormous vocabulary, English still makes a single word perform multiple and sometimes incompatible tasks, with room for unpleasant misunderstandings.