Textured paint for buildings?

Started by Lord Raffles, 20 November 2015, 03:43:44 PM

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Lord Raffles

Anyone know of any good textured paint brands to buy on-line?

My local Focus seems to have stopped selling any...  :-\

Leman

I use Windsor and Newton Galeria Modelling Paste. It is white and lightly textured, so you can paint any colour over it.
The artist formerly known as Dour Puritan!

Lord Raffles

Quote from: Leman on 20 November 2015, 04:39:31 PM
I use Windsor and Newton Galeria Modelling Paste. It is white and lightly textured, so you can paint any colour over it.

How easy is it to apply?

Subedai

Depends on the location and size.
For 10mm and larger Middle Eastern buildings I would use pva with a covering of fine sand with occasional gaps where the rendering has fallen off. This can also work on European types to allow some washes and drybrushing. Alternatively on European types, thinned surface filler with a dash of acrylic base colour in it.
Blog is at
http://thewordsofsubedai.blogspot.co.uk/

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WeeWars

20 November 2015, 07:44:24 PM #4 Last Edit: 20 November 2015, 07:47:11 PM by WeeWars
I've found that using artists acrylic modelling paste

www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=pebeo+modelling+paste&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Apebeo+modelling+paste

without added sand makes it easier to get the effect I want with just a little dabbing with a cocktail stick.

www.michaelscott.name/1809/blog2015/1809blogpost199.htm

www.michaelscott.name/1809/blog2015/1809blogpost201.htm

The problem, for me, with sand-textured paint is that I feel that even small patches without texture don't match the textured bits and you have to paint very carefully to cover everything evenly.
← click my website button to go to Michael's 10mm 1809 BLOG and WW1 Blog

www.supremelittleness.co.uk

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2015 Painting Competition - Runner-Up!

Lord Raffles

Could any of you post some pics of your work using the advice you've given?

Would love to see some examples!

WeeWars

If you click on the link above (199) and mouse-over image 1 and 3, image 3 is the MDF model with paste applied.

The link 201 shows the painted model. Mouse-over the image on the right to see the textured finish of the rear of the model.

All the models in the subsequent posts have had the same paste applied. Like this:

www.michaelscott.name/1809/blog2015/1809blogpost215.htm
← click my website button to go to Michael's 10mm 1809 BLOG and WW1 Blog

www.supremelittleness.co.uk

2014 Painting Competition - Runner-Up!
2015 Painting Competition - Runner-Up!

Lord Raffles

Do I require tools to apply these pastes, and if so what ones would people recommend?

Subedai

This in 6mm, a Middle eastern fortification/outpost. Made from cereal card on a old cd base. Fine sand -actually taken from the Sahara Desert when on holiday- has been applied to the walls. At the bottom left you can see where the rendering has fallen off. The palm tree is also home made. The figures -for scale- are an Irregular Miniatures block of Sassanid infantry doubling up as Khwaizmians.
   

Examples of 10mm buildings are:


Again, the basic forms are all made from cereal card with the church covered in embossed wallpaper to represent stones and fine sand on balsa for the perimeter walls; top right, bottom left and bottom right are made from toothpicks with scored cereal card for roofs while the building at centre right is made completely from scored cereal box card. Square woodpile and fences from matchsticks (uprights) with split toothpicks for cross pieces.
Blog is at
http://thewordsofsubedai.blogspot.co.uk/

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Lord Raffles

Very inspiring work Subedai!

How do you add the sand? Do you mix it with glue?

Subedai

Quote from: Lord Raffles on 21 November 2015, 07:27:36 PM
Very inspiring work Subedai!

How do you add the sand? Do you mix it with glue?

Thank you.
I just paint the surface with wood glue then throw sand at it (gently of course), what doesn't stick will fall off and can be reused. I keep the various grades of sand in containers that are large enough to get a model building in so you don't lose any.
Blog is at
http://thewordsofsubedai.blogspot.co.uk/

2017 Paint-Off - Winner!

NeilCFord

Saw this stuff today in my local railway model shop:

http://www.gascupboard.co.uk/textured-scenic-paint-183-c.asp

Haven't used it myself, but looks to be what you are looking for.

- Neil.

Lord Raffles

21 November 2015, 11:49:08 PM #12 Last Edit: 21 November 2015, 11:52:39 PM by Lord Raffles
Quote from: NeilCFord on 21 November 2015, 09:45:08 PM
Saw this stuff today in my local railway model shop:

http://www.gascupboard.co.uk/textured-scenic-paint-183-c.asp

Haven't used it myself, but looks to be what you are looking for.

- Neil.

Thanks, just the sort of thing I'm after!

Orcs

I have often used the DIY Wall Filler. the tupe that comes in a powder and you mix it yourself.  I mix it up fairly thin, mix PVA and water in about 50/50 quantities. More PVA if the object is a poor bonding surface ( ie not wood,Card or paper).  Add some fine sand or make it thicker if you want more texture.  you can use ink or paint instead of water to add some colour to it.

Then just brush it on .  I normally coat it with PVA afterwards

Also for more texture use the Exterior Filler as they are more coarse. The ready mixed stuff is too thick and usually mixed too smooth. Adding another layer can also add texture.  I have even managed to texture a interesting glas bottle to produce a stone Column this way, although I did use the Resin type PVA.

The ready mixed tetured ceing paint can also be used (Polyripple of Polytex in UK) One of the guys at club uses this for all his bases. Its expensive if you do not have it leftover from decorating as its only avaliable in big pots.

You can also get textured paint Matchpots from DIY stores.  THese are normally used for painting rendering.

Colour Party paint produce reptex that gives a stone type effect although it is not very textured

http://www.colourparty.co.uk/paints.php
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