6mm painting

Started by getagrip, 15 March 2015, 05:31:13 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Duke Speedy of Leighton

17 March 2015, 07:31:16 PM #40 Last Edit: 17 March 2015, 09:07:59 PM by mad lemmey
Silver sand mixed with red sand.
50/50 days atelier pva.
Leave to dry at least 24 hours.
Ink.
Leave 24 hours.
Base coat, dry brush.
Water/PVA mix.
Leave to dry.
Flock and clumps.
Leave to dry
Vanish

Basically basing can take longer than painting troops!
You may refer to me as: Your Grace, Duke Speedy of Leighton.
2016 Pendraken Painting Competion Participation Prize  (Lucky Dip Catagory) Winner

Westmarcher

Quote from: Hertsblue on 17 March 2015, 04:41:39 PM
So, what is the best adhesive to hold this stuff? The little tutorial on basing seems to be missing from the Baccus website at the moment. Any ideas?   
Yeah. Instructions aren't clear about timescales. My first attempt at the Baccus system had similar results but I now have no problems.

Using a slightly watered down mix of PVA (roughly 2 of PVA, 1 of water but never more than 50/50), I sprinkle the sand on the base, turn the base upside down, give it a gentle tap or two and leave it, usually overnight.

When I apply the ink wash, I dip the brush in the pot to get a generous helping and dab it on, letting it run freely through the sand. I use different size brushes depending on the area to be covered (large for wide areas, thin for getting between figures, etc.).

After leaving it overnight, I then dry brush the base as directed and apply the PVA/water mix again. I then dump a load of static grass on the base, turn the base upside down, give it a couple of taps with my finger, smooth the edges with my finger and again leave overnight. Next day, I get our old hoover out (!) and using the thin nozzle attachment, (very carefully) vacuum off the loose static grass (both this and the upside tapping of the base also helps the grass to stand up).  Works fine that way. Next lot of PVA was bought in a DIY shop. I also used some old Humbrol varnish once at the basing material stage and that worked too.
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

Hertsblue

OK, two things since my last post:

1. I've found the Baccus basing tutorial here:

https://www.baccus6mm.com/includes/howto/base6mm.php


2. I've had another go with the Baccus basing material using a different high-tack PVA. This time - success! When sprinkling on the basing material, which is very light and fine, make sure it's embedded well into the PVA. Leave it to dry for an hour or two, then use Westmarcher's technique of dabbing on the base-coat. And Robert's your mother's brother! The Baccus three-shade drybrushing works well, but normal static grass flock is too long for these little fellows and I shall be going over to the made-for-the-job stuff in the near future.   
When you realise we're all mad, life makes a lot more sense.

www.rulesdepot.net

getagrip

That's really useful Herts :-bd
Buy plenty of Matron's sculpts now!

If he keeps using the chainsaw, the value of his work will soon go up.

Leman

I have used the Baccus basing system successfully for a long time now, except my initial wash is yellow ochre (dab it on) then a wash of brown magic wash (the floor polish, water, ink mix) before doing the three layer dry brush. I find this gives a slightly lighter finish which makes the figures stand out better.
The artist formerly known as Dour Puritan!

getagrip

Just purchased my first Baccus basing pack; will have to see how it pans out ;)
Buy plenty of Matron's sculpts now!

If he keeps using the chainsaw, the value of his work will soon go up.

Leman

I have found that some things run out faster than others. Fortunately most of the components can be bought separately from Baccus these days. First to go for me was the PVA, then I stopped using the brown wash. Everything else is still going strong after five years.
The artist formerly known as Dour Puritan!

getagrip

Didn't realise it came with PVA.

Thought it was paint, sand and flock.

Didn't really look too hard though, just bought on the recommendation.  Loads of folk seem to use it though ;)
Buy plenty of Matron's sculpts now!

If he keeps using the chainsaw, the value of his work will soon go up.

Fenton

I know its not 6mm painting, but I was looking through some old emails and found the old Peter Dennis Hard Core design buildings that Tom Dye sent me some years back

If anyone wants them drop me a PM with your email. I think there is about 10 buildings including a chateau

If I were creating Pendraken I wouldn't mess about with Romans and  Mongols  I would have started with Centurions , eight o'clock, Day One!

Westmarcher

Quote from: Leman on 19 March 2015, 05:44:30 PM
I have found that some things run out faster than others. Fortunately most of the components can be bought separately from Baccus these days. First to go for me was the PVA, then I stopped using the brown wash. Everything else is still going strong after five years.
Me too. Still using the 'replacement' PVA I bought in B&Q but the brown foundation wash is now ready to run out. Baccus want £6.00 for 60 ml. Is there a cheaper alternative that is just as good?
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

Fenton

I use the AP strong tone, but the Vallejo Sepia shade  wash might do the trick
If I were creating Pendraken I wouldn't mess about with Romans and  Mongols  I would have started with Centurions , eight o'clock, Day One!

Leman

Any diluted paint based wash will do for basing.
The artist formerly known as Dour Puritan!

Hertsblue

Quote from: Fenton on 19 March 2015, 07:09:27 PM
I use the AP strong tone, but the Vallejo Sepia shade  wash might do the trick

I used the Vallojo Brown Shade on my first ones. Seems to work fine.
When you realise we're all mad, life makes a lot more sense.

www.rulesdepot.net