What type/make/size brush(es) do you use?

[Techno]

Hmmm...

Have to say that when the first batch arrived at the studio, I didn't like them nearly as much as the W&Ns....So like most of the others, I stuck to those.
One of the painters DID prefer the GW ones, as he liked the fact that the bristles were a tiny bit longer.
Cheers - Phil

[Orcs]

I use "The Works" 4 for £1.99  for the majority of my painting. they do fine detail brushes for general painting  and flat ones that are good for drybrushing.

I also use the Pro Arte range which hold the point better for fine detail work

The Works  ones don't keep a point as long as the Pro arte ones but are a less than a quarter of the price, so i buy three packs at a time and throw them away reguarly.

For Bases, buildings and terrain  I use flat brushes from "Tescos" that are flat brushes about 8mm across and only £1.50 for three. They paint quick and are brilliant for soft drybrushing .  

I also use a 1 inch Flitch (windowframe Brush ) for terrain from a DIY store

[barbarian]

Size 2.
Rarely size 0.
The size doesn't matter, it is the tip that matters.

[Roy]

when painting 10mm -

[Undercoating]
Army Painter Monster brush

[Miniature Painting]
Army Painter Basecoating brush (majority of the painting)
Army Painter Detail brush (faces)

[Drybrushing bases]
Foundry Drybrush brush

[Shading washes]
Foundry Blocking brush

[Roy]

The size doesn't matter, it is the tip that matters.

I agree completely  

[Hertsblue]

I also use GW brushes. The first "detail" brush I bought (about eighteen months ago) was brilliant, but the replacements have been fairly so-so. I also use a 000 sable kolinsky from J P Perkins that I bought from the local art shop. It's now started to "hook" after a couple of weeks use. 

[Techno]

The size doesn't matter, it is the tip that matters.

I agree completely 

Same here !
Cheers - Phil

[Matt J]

It's now started to "hook" after a couple of weeks use. 

Why do they do that 

That's why I use GW no matter their other faults, they never hook.

[Hertsblue]

Search me, Matt. 

[getagrip]

Size 2.
Rarely size 0.
The size doesn't matter, it is the tip that matters.

Agree to a point (no pun intended), the length makes a significant difference to me

[getagrip]

Why do they do that 

That's why I use GW no matter their other faults, they never hook.

My GW's never hook; agreed

I know that not cleaning thoroughly really affects them; also, if the undercoat / glue is not completely dry (as in bone dry) this can make them hook too.

I've just bought some brush soap to help clean mine

[Roy]

Now I like a brush that hooks. It allows me to have more control over the paint, especially if the 'hook' produces a straight line effect.

[getagrip]

Now I like a brush that hooks. It allows me to have more control over the paint, especially if the 'hook' produces a straight line effect.

I find it irritating beyond belief; mine are invariably relegated to dry-brushing / highlighting.

[Leman]

Windsor and Newton Series 7 1,0 and 00. Always clean with  artists brush cleaner and preserver afterwards as they cost a small fortune (my three cost me £25) but they last and have made a big difference to my painting.

[getagrip]

Windsor and Newton Series 7 1,0 and 00. Always clean with  artists brush cleaner and preserver afterwards as they cost a small fortune (my three cost me £25) but they last and have made a big difference to my painting.

Just ordered two WNs; size 1 and 0.  Be nice to see what all the fuss is about

[Roy]

Another thing that'll probably set me apart from some, is that I don't like those real hair / sable brushes (or whatever they're made from).

I like the synthetic nylon stuff.

I had an Andrea Miniatures brush that was nylon and since then they've been my prefered choice. I think the Army Painter brushes I'm using are nylon, they don't seem to be sable anyway.  

[Leman]

Never been able to use them as after two or three uses the tip always curves over for me.

[getagrip]

Another thing that'll probably set me apart from some, is that I don't like those real hair / sable brushes (or whatever they're made from).

I like the synthetic nylon stuff.

I had an Andrea Miniatures brush that was nylon and since then they've been my prefered choice. I think the Army Painter brushes I'm using are nylon, they don't seem to be sable anyway.  

Will not and cannot use nylon; they just don't feel right

Also, nylon don't come to a proper point the moment you put paint on them

[Roy]

Also, nylon don't come to a proper point the moment you put paint on them

Hmm. They work okay for me. Strange that.

Though, some't similar, is a conversation I was having yesterday with a chap who mainly uses pva or cheap superglue to stick stuff together as he can't get away with Loctite superglue. Me being the exact opposite. Tried lots of different glues and it's Loctite that I swear by (and not just when I glue my fingers together).

[getagrip]

So my WN series 7 arrived today and I have to say I'm very impressed 

As to comparisons, it's about 5mm longer than a GW brush end to end (so no real difference there) but the WN handle is 1mm bigger in diameter.  This may not sound huge but a 20% difference creates a considerably different feel in the hand.  I like a fatter handle which is why I can't use some other brands and so WN it is for me from now on.

Only problem is the price, they're about 2.5 times more expensive.  Time will tell if they last longer.  They certainly put down colour beautifully