Making a set of river tiles

Started by Pruneau, 10 March 2011, 10:07:18 PM

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Pruneau

I started making a cheapo modular set of river tiles yesterday,  with 3 meters plus of river in a variety of shapes.  Still have to work on a few others, like a bridge tile and a lock,
I did some more work on them today, and things are already looking nice, so I put the order up on my blog:
http://secondsquadonme.blogspot.com/2011/03/making-river-set-for-10-mm-phase-1.html
Boardgames: MMP ACW, ASL ᴥ BKC & SSOM - WW2 (In development) ᴥ Flying Lead - Sci-Fi: Shocktroops, Pulp, Spugs ᴥ WH - Greenskins, Dwarfs

http://hiording.blogspot.com - http://runequestfun.blogspot.com - http://secondsquadonme.blogspot.com

ʎɐqə ɯoɹɟ pɹɐoqʎəʞ ɐ ʎnq ı əɯıʇ ʇsɐl əɥʇ sı sıɥʇ

Gandalf

Looks good so far.  You could use the same technique to produce roads.  Are you going to texture the water with something?  I've found the Games Workshop book "How to Make Wargames Terrain" really useful for rivers in the past. http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1130254&_requestid=995594
Have you seen the rivets on that?

nikharwood

Nice tutorial Rudy - thanks for sharing  8)

Gandalf's right too - that GW book is very useful for techniques.

Maenoferren

looking good Rudy, yep How to make terrain book a good one :)
Sometimes I wonder - why is that frisbee geting bigger - and then it hits me!

Arsenus

Good work! It will look good!

I have make a river too:
http://arsenus.blog.free.fr/index.php?post/2011/02/13/Pendraken%2C-d%C3%A9cors-et-abscence%21%5E%5E

I translate:
And yes, I made a river which cost me very little! ^ ^ I needed sheets of heavy paper, a bit of gravel that can be found in pet stores, some paint, glue, pencil and eraser! So I begin by tracing the contours of the river, being careful to keep the same width of bed, and then I painted with wood glue, I glued the fragments and the different scenery!
The shadow of a man can never stand up and walk on its own.

https://arsenus.blogspot.fr/

Pruneau

Thanks for the comments!

For water texturing I intend to keep it very simple: bluegreen with some streaks, and only the texture of the brush, taking care to use a very soft brush and go along with the flow.  After that a bit of glossy varnish should do the trick.  I'm not gonna use water stuff, I want minimal thickness.

I finished all the tiles just now, pulled of the tape, tomorrow cleaning up the lines, adding some detail, sand, rocks, and so on, and coat with diluted glue for a stronger finish, then I'm getting a cheap can of burnt umber spray for the base coat.
Boardgames: MMP ACW, ASL ᴥ BKC & SSOM - WW2 (In development) ᴥ Flying Lead - Sci-Fi: Shocktroops, Pulp, Spugs ᴥ WH - Greenskins, Dwarfs

http://hiording.blogspot.com - http://runequestfun.blogspot.com - http://secondsquadonme.blogspot.com

ʎɐqə ɯoɹɟ pɹɐoqʎəʞ ɐ ʎnq ı əɯıʇ ʇsɐl əɥʇ sı sıɥʇ

Pruneau

Boardgames: MMP ACW, ASL ᴥ BKC & SSOM - WW2 (In development) ᴥ Flying Lead - Sci-Fi: Shocktroops, Pulp, Spugs ᴥ WH - Greenskins, Dwarfs

http://hiording.blogspot.com - http://runequestfun.blogspot.com - http://secondsquadonme.blogspot.com

ʎɐqə ɯoɹɟ pɹɐoqʎəʞ ɐ ʎnq ı əɯıʇ ʇsɐl əɥʇ sı sıɥʇ

Hertsblue

Quote from: Pruneau on 11 March 2011, 08:30:03 PM

After that a bit of glossy varnish should do the trick.  I'm not gonna use water stuff, I want minimal thickness.

I recommend yacht-varnish. Gives a really glossy finish. Needs two or three coats, though.

Incidentally, what did you use for the banks? The Games Workshop book recommends polystyrene (the dense, non-expanded kind) but I've never neen able to find it. :(
When you realise we're all mad, life makes a lot more sense.

www.rulesdepot.net

Paint it Pink

I make terrain boards with integral rivers, or hills, or whatever really.



I'm currently working on some wider riverine delta boards for 10mm Vietnam games, which can be seen on my blog here:

http://panther6actual.blogspot.com/2011/04/mission-up-river.html
Unlike some people, I feel under no obligation to pretend that only one war-gaming scale is true, and that any others 6mm/10mm/15mm/25mm are mistaken; or that I know better than people themselves what is right for them to use. The point is precisely for all war-gamers to decide for themselves.

http://panther6actual.blogspot.com/
http://ashleyrpollard.blogspot.co.uk/

Arsenus

The shadow of a man can never stand up and walk on its own.

https://arsenus.blogspot.fr/

Pruneau

Your tiles are great, but I really don't have the room at home to store that kind of terrain.  I just might start a new project in the new club house: there are already 3 people interested in my 10mm WW2 endeavours, and when you can work with 4 people at once things speed up considerably.  I used to have a 4' by 10' table with 1' by 1' poly morph tiles before we moved to our current -smaller- home.  :(
Boardgames: MMP ACW, ASL ᴥ BKC & SSOM - WW2 (In development) ᴥ Flying Lead - Sci-Fi: Shocktroops, Pulp, Spugs ᴥ WH - Greenskins, Dwarfs

http://hiording.blogspot.com - http://runequestfun.blogspot.com - http://secondsquadonme.blogspot.com

ʎɐqə ɯoɹɟ pɹɐoqʎəʞ ɐ ʎnq ı əɯıʇ ʇsɐl əɥʇ sı sıɥʇ

Kassad

A very good work Paint it Pink. I like your modules!  ;)
2011 Painting Competition - Runner-Up!

Paint it Pink

Thank you. The whole project has been what one might call a "learning opportunity", with what can best be described as a steady learning curve to overcome.
Unlike some people, I feel under no obligation to pretend that only one war-gaming scale is true, and that any others 6mm/10mm/15mm/25mm are mistaken; or that I know better than people themselves what is right for them to use. The point is precisely for all war-gamers to decide for themselves.

http://panther6actual.blogspot.com/
http://ashleyrpollard.blogspot.co.uk/