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Author Topic: My absolute-fecking-nightmare to paint is...  (Read 7963 times)
17-21l
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« Reply #15 on: 25 March 2010, 12:32:06 PM »

 Sad anythng Yellow - I mean how the hell do you shade YELLOW!!!! - stick to 10mm ACW - thats the option.  Agree with red - its the pits. I have painted  for 24 years - most evenings if the Mrs will let me - and I still find horses and horse furniture boring to death - stick with it guys we are the blood line of our hobby ( and mostly classed as wierdo's by the unclean non wargamer disbelievers!!)  Embarrassed
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God Save the Queen
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Steve J
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« Reply #16 on: 25 March 2010, 01:43:17 PM »

Just getting started is my biggest problem. I love the prep and basing part of getting my force together, but from then on, it is often in fis and starts. Once I get going it is ok.
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Fenton
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« Reply #17 on: 25 March 2010, 11:26:27 PM »

Sad anythng Yellow - I mean how the hell do you shade YELLOW!!!! -

Use the yellow you want and mix it with a bit of brown for the basecoat then highlight in the original yellow colour again...works well for cuffs especially
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If I were creating Pendraken I wouldn't mess about with Romans and  Mongols  I would have started with Centurions , eight o'clock, Day One!
snafu
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« Reply #18 on: 30 March 2010, 04:44:44 PM »

Painting US airborne, just couldnt do the beaks on the eagles in the badge ....  lol

thats for u MR harwood....  Tongue Tongue Grin
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nikharwood
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« Reply #19 on: 30 March 2010, 05:50:16 PM »

 Grin Nice, mate, nice - I bet you could though... Wink Cool
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Ben Waterhouse
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« Reply #20 on: 31 March 2010, 11:21:47 AM »

Yellow

Being a shader rather than a 3-colour man; I wash yellow with thin brown ink; does it for me.

(and, heesy of heresy, I undercoat in white!)
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Minenfeld
Second Lieutenant
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Posts: 90



« Reply #21 on: 04 April 2010, 07:23:55 PM »

Our Landing and stairs, a right pain in the bum Wink. Thanks for the tip Nik about painting an area white, to keep the true colour. I always undercoat in black, and my figures are on the dark side.  Hopefully that will lighten things up a bit.
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vtsaogames
Cadet

Posts: 4


« Reply #22 on: 10 April 2010, 08:51:10 PM »

Something that can help with a decent red - especially if you're undercoating in black - is to paint whatever-it-is white first: this will give you a true-tone to start from...this'll also help you with oranges / yellows...

My technique is to prime black and then dry brush white. That gives a good base for red. I do it for all colors but a slightly heavier dry brush (or not so dry brush) when the final color is going to be red. Then the red comes off looking shaded already, since the red over black is not as intense as the red over white.

I hope that made sense.
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Minenfeld
Second Lieutenant
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« Reply #23 on: 11 April 2010, 08:01:23 PM »

Thanks for that tip vtsaogames, I'll give that a try too !
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sixsideddice
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« Reply #24 on: 08 May 2010, 01:52:50 PM »

..... painting 10mm figures, full stop!  Cry

It`s a nightmare in itself stopping my painting hand from shaking like a bad case of DT`s when you`re as old as I feel.

*Sighhhhhs* but I endeavour  Lips Sealed


Steve
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Pawel Chrzanowski
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Posts: 41


« Reply #25 on: 21 May 2010, 09:00:54 AM »

horses, drums and royal livery on coats Sad
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goat major
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« Reply #26 on: 21 May 2010, 09:10:15 AM »

AWI Mounted Commanders. No matter how many times i sit down to paint them i can never seem to find them

 Wink
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Leon
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« Reply #27 on: 21 May 2010, 04:22:43 PM »

AWI Mounted Commanders. No matter how many times i sit down to paint them i can never seem to find them

 Wink

 Tongue
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Last Hussar
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« Reply #28 on: 25 May 2010, 11:47:00 PM »

Really - the Foundation paints from GW go over black really well. The Mechrite Red is a little dark - pre modern dyes weather towards orange/terracotta- but spot on for coverage.

I went into the Milton Keynes branch and explained I needed a green for Russians (when we planned on SYW not WSS) and the guy was really helpful- even testing it for me on a Marine's black undercoated shoulder pad. It is the perfect Imperial Russian green - and good for the bases to!

A mixture of my lack of painting skills, plus the fact I feel 10mm suits fewer strong colours, rather than "every ruddy thread" of 25mm means painting my latest units (WSS as seen elsewhere) has been so much easier. I nearly enjoyed it!
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I have neither the time or the crayons to explain why you are wrong.
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