Any tips an assembling artillery pieces and particularly limbers

Started by KeithS, 05 March 2021, 10:35:38 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

KeithS

Hi, I am fairly new to 10mm and when I have worked in 6mm/10mm previously it has mainly been WW2 tanks, which are fairly easy.  So having looked at the disassembled parts of Napoleonic cannons and limbers I am a bit daunted about putting them together, so I was wondering if anyone has any tips on how to go about their construction, or would like to demonstrate their techniques.
I'll bring up the rest of the brigade.

Lord Kermit of Birkenhead

The smart answer is carfully. I use superglue put the carriage/vehicle on it's side and dab with a small amount of glue, then put the wheel onto the axle onto the stub. The thing to be wary of is sticking the peice to the surface it's on, hence the small amount of glue. I have only done a few and no cannon, but use the same technique with 15's, there wait for the wheels to set hard then place the barrel onto the carraige, again with superglue, in small quantity, and allow to set hard. Hope that helps.
FOG IN CHANNEL - EUROPE CUT OFF
Lord Kermit of Birkenhead
Muppet of the year 2019, 2020 and 2021

Leon

The best tip I've ever had for putting wheels on cannons is BluTac.  Pop a thin strip of BluTac on your table, align the wheels to the carriage width and gently push them into the BluTac.  Then pop your glue of choice on the axles, place the carriage in between your wheels and squeeze the wheels on.  The BluTac will hold them in place while it sets and job done.  You can pop the gun barrel on while it's there as well.
www.pendraken.co.uk - Now home to over 7000 products, including 4500 items for 10mm wargaming, plus MDF bases, Battlescale buildings, I-94 decals, Litko Gaming Aids, Militia Miniatures, Raiden Miniatures 1/285th aircraft, Red Vectors MDF products, Vallejo paints and much, much more!

Westmarcher

But first of all, do a dry run in case the axle ends don't fit snuggly into the holes and need shaving.

I prefer to undercoat the parts first and, at the very least, paint the parts that are not easily accessible such as the inside of the wheels, etc. (I've tried after assembly and it is no less fiddly).
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

Nirnman

After a long time with superglued fingers and much swearing, I finally found the simplest answer to the problem from watching a
tube video on how to rig a certain company's sailing ships. I put some superglue in a suitable container and using a sewing needle
or similar pointed tool to pick up a drop and apply it to the limber wheel and then attach the body. I do several at a time by which stage
the first has set and repeat with the second wheel. This is also how I now attach the wheels for the cannon and also the gun barrels.
No more superglued fingers and a much calmer frame of mind.

Steve J

All of the above suggestions I use and they work a treat.

Orcs

After initial assembly of wheels i put a blob of superglue on my palate (an whit ceramic tile) and then use a cocktail stick to apply more glue around the join for additional strength.

Its best to leave this overnight after doing that as it often takes far longer than you think to fully dry. I have destroyed several panitbrushes for trying to undercoat stuff that I assembled as much as an hour or two before.
The cynics are right nine times out of ten. -Mencken, H. L.

Life is not a matter of holding good cards, but of playing a poor hand well. - Robert Louis Stevenson

kipt

I have never had any trouble.  After cleaning off the flash on wheels, carriage and tube, I put a spot of superglue (using the small tube glue) on the "axle" and then insert into the wheel.  I do both sides and typically have several pieces to do, so after a bit I go back and straighten the wheels and then superglue the tube.

jimduncanuk

Some folk will have trouble attaching wheels if they are using traditional superglue. It will seep everywhere.

If you use 'gel' superglue then it will stay where you put it and won't run.

And, always best to add a little to re-inforce the joint.


My Ego forbids a signature.

Orcs

Quote from: jimduncanuk on 05 March 2021, 04:25:42 PM
If you use 'gel' superglue then it will stay where you put it and won't run.

And, always best to add a little to re-inforce the joint.


Gel is slower to dry - thats what caught me out with the brushes
The cynics are right nine times out of ten. -Mencken, H. L.

Life is not a matter of holding good cards, but of playing a poor hand well. - Robert Louis Stevenson

Ithoriel

A few grains of Bicarb of soda on one side, superglue on the other. push together, pretty much instant bond.
There are 100 types of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who can work from incomplete data

John Cook

The key thing with superglue is to use just as much as is necessary, which isn't very much to achieve a bond.  Using a toothpick, needle or similar, to apply it is good advice.  Gel is better than liquid glue as it stays, more or less, where you put it.  The more glue you use the longer it will take to activate and trying to apply it straight from the bottle will, inevitably, result in far too much being dispensed.  Consider using a superglue accelerant/activator which will cause it to cure instantly.  

sultanbev

With awkward to fit together metal/resin parts, I put gel superglue on one piece, and contact adhesive on the other. Gives an almost instant bond with just enough seconds to do any last second repositioning.

John Cook

Quote from: sultanbev on 05 March 2021, 08:46:11 PM
With awkward to fit together metal/resin parts, I put gel superglue on one piece, and contact adhesive on the other. Gives an almost instant bond with just enough seconds to do any last second repositioning.

That's a good tip.  I will give it a go next time.  I have used the 50/50 bicarb and water home-made accelerant in the past but the contact adhesive is a new one to me.