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Author Topic: Applying Decals  (Read 703 times)
Noktu
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« on: 16 May 2020, 11:59:05 AM »

Greetings Kamaraden!

I was hoping that you guys could run me through the steps of applying decals. I'm going to try those on some of my painted tanks today, and would greatly benefit from your experiences. Especially with 10mm decals.


Wish me luck, I'm going to need it!
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fred.
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« Reply #1 on: 16 May 2020, 12:53:49 PM »

A layer of gloss varnish, this only needs to be a little larger than the size of the decal - this is important to give a smooth surface, which stops silvering around the edges.

With 10mm decals because they are small I cut a few out and then place a drop of water on them (on a cutting mat or something else water proof)

Then use a paint brush to position. I sometimes use the point of a scalpel blade to carefully pull the decal if I canít get the orientation or position quite right

Dab off excess water

I sometimes use some micro sol if the decal is to go on a complex surface

Let dry

Another coat of gloss varnish on the decals

Then finish the whole model with matt varnish
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Ithoriel
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« Reply #2 on: 16 May 2020, 01:41:47 PM »

What fred said, except that I use a dental pick rather than a scalpel tip.
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Noktu
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« Reply #3 on: 17 May 2020, 07:53:03 AM »

Thank you!

I actually had no gloss varnish to begin with so had to order myself some. Also ordered the new army painter Wet palette, which I will be trying out too.

I might however try applying few decals without the gloss base (On models on their way to Valhalla), just to see the effects of silvering.

Also, I guess the gloss base is of paramount importance as to protect the model from the decal softener alcohol not ruining the paint?
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FierceKitty
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« Reply #4 on: 17 May 2020, 08:24:19 AM »

Warm the water too, for faster action. And dab rather than wipe it dry after application.

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ianrs54
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« Reply #5 on: 17 May 2020, 09:14:55 AM »

Yes wiping would move the thing. I tend to use the pin drill for final positioning
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fred.
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« Reply #6 on: 17 May 2020, 10:48:12 AM »

Interesting that we all use some variant of finely pointed instrument for final positioning

Avoid wiping water away, if I have transferred a lot of water to the model, I try to wick away the water with a corner of tissue.

The slivering depends on lots of factors, if you have little clear carrier round the decal then you will see less of it. If the paint you have used is smooth, then you will see less.
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Noktu
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« Reply #7 on: 17 May 2020, 11:30:49 AM »

Some of the silvering will be dismantled with the finishing coats of varnish? Is the gloss varnish required on top of the decal? Followed with a matte varnish.

Or would just matte be enough to seal the decal?
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fred.
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« Reply #8 on: 17 May 2020, 11:53:29 AM »

The silvering is due to tiny trapped air bubbles between the base coat of paint, and the decal. So I don't think the final coat of varnish will help with this.

By the time I have gone to the trouble of putting the decal on, a little bit of gloss over the top (just of the decal) feels a sensible precaution to protect it. I don't know if it is strictly needed, but it seems worthwhile. It probably depends a bit on what you do with your figures - if they travel to games, then the more protection the better!

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Leon
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« Reply #9 on: 17 May 2020, 11:50:47 PM »

What you need is one of these new decal picker tools:



These are available in the Tools section of our sites: http://www.minibits.net/tools-putties-glues/tools/
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