Hearts of Oak (well MDF...)

Started by Last Hussar, 09 January 2019, 08:57:05 PM

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Ithoriel

Impressive!

"Quantity has a quality all it's own" As Stalin probably never said  :)
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Last Hussar

Its difficult to frame for a photo - get the whole sweep in, and you just have blobs - show the units and you can't get the scale of the table.

(Unrelated question - the dice are the GW ones - are they 12mm?)
I have neither the time or the crayons to explain why you are wrong.

GNU PTerry

howayman

Really impressive.
Many years ago a fellow gamer said about some unpainted figures in a game "You might as well just use wooden blocks"
Here you are superb painted wooden markers.
Are you going to continue?

By the way. Who won?

toxicpixie

Bonza.

Looks better than any game of FoG-R I've seen before, but Then i do like the big battalions :)
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paulr

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Last Hussar

Not finished it yet, the only other time I've played was about a year ago with Sunjester - just a small game and that was 1st edition.

Its quite table heavy and the only QRs are on a closed Fb group.  I need to amend the ones I typed up for that. After a couple of turns I was in the swing of it, but having only the tables in the book is a pain. Once typed up it will be simple - 1 page per phase.

2 turn the Austrians cavalry moved up, the French made a defensive charge, and the Austrians counter charged. The dice between them were average, except the low ones were with the French. Uhlans followed up, and a regiment of hussars ran away.  In FoG if cavalry take any hit in close combat they are "spent" for the rest of the game, so 5 of the 6 cavalry in the game are below full effectiveness early on.

The Austrians, being unreformed usually need to get within  2 move units, while the French skirmishers project decent power out to 6. The Austrians are going to need their large units to absorb damage (-1 hit for being large) and hope they can overcome the smaller French units.
I have neither the time or the crayons to explain why you are wrong.

GNU PTerry

fred.

Looks very impressive

Are you going to paint the edges of the movement trays to match the green of the figure bases?
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Last Hussar

26 April 2020, 10:05:05 AM #232 Last Edit: 26 April 2020, 10:08:25 AM by Last Hussar
I'm not planning to. As I've mentioned before you can't hide the flat nature of the figures, especially skirmishers, so I'm making a feature of it for that "Brandy and cigars - Billiard table" look. Also everything is one pose per type.  If I was a better painter I might.

The laser also gives the MDF a colour and sheen of real wood.  This is why I haven't flocked the bases either.

Any ideas how I can clean the base edges to remove the paint? (The big tubes of acrylic from "The Works")

I know some people don't like markers on the table, and the trays have the info in them, but again I am making a feature of the table top appearance, rather than making a diorama. Also the rules give the bases as 30mm deep not the 20 I use, so a unit in "tactical" is the right depth with those added.
I have neither the time or the crayons to explain why you are wrong.

GNU PTerry

Last Hussar

I'm calling the game an Austrian victory. French Right flank almost turned, and the Corps is beginning to get fragile - especially that right most division.

Decisive moment was when a French Square (the unit on the hill on the right) came under threat by both infantry and cavalry.  The infantry (in the photo its the large unit on the right by the red dice) charged it, and caused it to retire left wards - away from the charge. Firing from the woods Broke it, causing another unit to Break.  A charge against the Freiwilliger Bn (in the photo its on the central hill, next to the Divisional commander) that was on the left end of the wood (triangle of 3 trees) failed, not only did the French Regiment run away, but the conscripts made their roll, to pursue. Their original tormenters being beyong pursuit range they smashed into the unit to their right, forcing them back into friends who then became disordered because of it.

Although the Austrian Right (left in the photo) has had a bit of a slap, its strong enough to pin the French left.  Davout has decided maybe a withdrawl would be better than a rolling up!
I have neither the time or the crayons to explain why you are wrong.

GNU PTerry

Lord Kermit of Birkenhead

As mdf is absorbent I dont think you will be able to remove paint from the bases.
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toxicpixie

If it's dried quick a flick over with your nail/edge of a knife might flake it off.

If it's dried *in* then one of the very dark browns from the Works (great minds) is almost exactly the match of the laser cut edges on the mdf...
I provide a cheap, quick painting service to get you table top quality figures ready to roll - www.facebook.com/jtppainting

O Dinas Powys

Quote from: toxicpixie on 26 April 2020, 01:06:59 PM
If it's dried quick a flick over with your nail/edge of a knife might flake it off.

If it's dried *in* then one of the very dark browns from the Works (great minds) is almost exactly the match of the laser cut edges on the mdf...

The only risk with using a blade on the edge of the MDF is scraping off the burnt layer and needing to paint it anyway  :(

Swings and roundabouts I guess  :)
(I know, even though it's fantasy  :o  ;)  )

toxicpixie

Yers, it's an awkward balance!

The Works tube craft paint that I think matches the mdf edges nicely is "PNTA-149 Raw Umber" - it's very dark brown in the tube and retains that colour when painted :)
I provide a cheap, quick painting service to get you table top quality figures ready to roll - www.facebook.com/jtppainting

Last Hussar

Using Google Lens to OCR the FoG tables in to a word processor to edit into a precis/play sheet (beyond QR - will be a run through of the turn) realised where I was going wrong. This is why my QR goes through step by step.
I have neither the time or the crayons to explain why you are wrong.

GNU PTerry

Terry37

Really impressive, and a lot of painting involved!!!

Terry
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