Pendraken Miniatures Forum
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
25 November 2020, 02:32:38 PM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
We've released some handy WWII Drivers & Passengers!
310686 Posts in 18053 Topics by 2269 Members
Latest Member: BKC Grenadier
* Home Help Search Calendar Login Register
+  Pendraken Miniatures Forum
|-+  Wider Wargaming
| |-+  Painting & Modelling (Moderator: nikharwood)
| | |-+  Painting and shading advice
« previous next »
Pages: [1] 2 Go Down Print
Author Topic: Painting and shading advice  (Read 4369 times)
Aughrim1691
Cadet

Posts: 7


« on: 27 June 2017, 07:00:40 PM »

Being new to both the forum and to 10mm figures in general I am writing this in the hope that somebody can give me some advice.
I have previously painted 18mm to 28mm figures. My method of painting is to block paint the figures and then use the Army Painter products to shade them. This has worked so far, but with the 10mm figures it reduces them to a very dark figure, the colours not coming through.
 In short my question is with this style of painting what, if anything, would both give depth to the figures but at the same time retain the brightness of the painting. Your views and help would be greatly appreciated.
Logged
mad lemmey
Marquis
********
*
*
Posts: 21841



« Reply #1 on: 27 June 2017, 08:05:42 PM »

Paint a shade or two lighter than you normally would, then use very diluted armypainter or highlight after washes.
Logged

Off to the Shed of Decency.

Chekov's Gun, Occam's Razor, and Heisenberg's Uncertainty Principle walk into a bar. You won't believe what happens next!

2016 Pendraken Painting Competion Participation Prize  (Lucky Dip Catagory) Winner 😎
jimduncanuk
Colonel
*
Posts: 1035


WWW
« Reply #2 on: 27 June 2017, 08:15:43 PM »

Block paint the figures and then sparingly highlight the figures.

Don't ink them.

Use colours a shade or two lighter than you would use on bigger figures.
Logged

My Ego forbids a signature.
Fenton
Lieutenant General
*
Posts: 5046



« Reply #3 on: 27 June 2017, 09:13:01 PM »

I block paint the figures then wash in W&N nut brown
« Last Edit: 27 June 2017, 09:14:35 PM by Fenton » Logged

If I were creating Pendraken I wouldn't mess about with Romans and  Mongols  I would have started with Centurions , eight o'clock, Day One!
Terry37
Colonel
*
Posts: 1139



« Reply #4 on: 27 June 2017, 10:47:14 PM »

I block paint mine, and then hit them with a weak/very thinned Vallejo wash. When that dries I highlight with a wet dry wash of a brighter shade. So far I have been pleased with the results.

Terry
Logged

"My heart has joined the thousand for a friend stopped running today." Mr. Richard Adams
paulr
Field Marshal
*
*
Posts: 10237


« Reply #5 on: 27 June 2017, 11:21:48 PM »

Welcome to the forum Aughrim1691 Wave

As others have said paint several shades lighter than you would on larger figures.

The smallerr areas appear darker to the eye so you need to lighten them so they will look right

I use a thin black wash on most of my figures so tend to paint lighter still, allowing for the darkening from the wash

Logged

2018 Painting Competition - Runner-Up!
Techno
Guest
« Reply #6 on: 28 June 2017, 07:28:08 AM »

Welcome from me, too !  Wave

Cheers - Phil
Logged
Leman
Field Marshal
*
Posts: 10699



« Reply #7 on: 28 June 2017, 07:48:49 AM »

I am using a black undercoat which I then dry brush with white to bring out the detail. I then paint a highlight colour rather than the basic colour and try to leave recesses with black in them. I have tried many other styles over the years. The other successful one has been to prime in white, block paint the figure and then use a brown magic wash (see Fat Wally's web site  fat-wally.com). At the top of his menu , in red, is his painting service. Click on that and you can then access his magic wash recipe. I most frequently use a brown ink rather than black ink version, as this stops the figures becoming too dark. The magic wash also provides another layer of protection, as I apply it after applying a coat of Vallejo satin varnish.

These 6mm figures were done using the magic wash system:




These 10mm using black undercoat and highlight:

Logged

The artist formerly known as Dour Puritan!
Glorfindel
Captain
*
Posts: 498


« Reply #8 on: 28 June 2017, 09:19:35 AM »

Another option is to undercoat in white and then apply a dark wash
(I use 'Badab Black').   This really brings out the detail, adds a black
line effect and also provides brighter colours that can be dulled by a
black u/c.


Phil
Logged
Zippee
Lieutenant Colonel
*
Posts: 786



WWW
« Reply #9 on: 28 June 2017, 11:35:31 AM »

I undercoat white

Then block paint - a shade lighter than you'd think.

Wash with coat d'arms shader black

Highlight all major areas with a bright/light colour - lighter than you'd think.

Never paint black, black - paint it dark grey and highlight. likewise never paint white, white, paint it light grey and highlight white

French Legere 1809 - 10th Regiment, Battalion III 03 by Zippee Jerred, on Flickr

Austrian Chevaux Leger 1809 - 5th Klenau Regiment 03 by Zippee Jerred, on Flickr

Austrian Landwehr 1809 - Manhartsberg 2nd Battalion 01 by Zippee Jerred, on Flickr

DR01 - Ralph Appleton's Dragoons - 02 by Zippee Jerred, on Flickr

https://www.flickr.com/photos/zippee/albums/with/72157680353106664
« Last Edit: 28 June 2017, 11:37:37 AM by Zippee » Logged

Sunray
Brigadier
*
Posts: 2377


« Reply #10 on: 28 June 2017, 02:56:10 PM »

What a festival of eye candy.   Smiley
Logged
Techno
Guest
« Reply #11 on: 28 June 2017, 07:05:11 PM »

Cor....Those are a bit good ! Thumbs up

Cheers - Phil
Logged
Aughrim1691
Cadet

Posts: 7


« Reply #12 on: 29 June 2017, 03:19:29 PM »

Thank you to everyone that replied with advice.
It looks like there are various ways to achieve a shaded result without turning the figures into an unrecognisable blob.
I'm now going to have to start experimenting!
Logged
toxicpixie
Major General
*
Posts: 4693



« Reply #13 on: 29 June 2017, 04:13:47 PM »

If using a wash as "heavy" as Army Painter (e.g. their own stain or any of the various "magic" or B&Q-tastic replacements) I'd go with white undercoat and a very bright version of the base colour!

I've done a few units like that and it works - specifically some LoA range cuirassiers and grenadiers, as "quick paint" tests. They're not amazing, but they were quick and acceptable. I can see it being exceptionally easy to bugger up and end up with dark blobs, mind, so I'm not sure it's something I'd be very comfortable for other peoples figures or anything I was really feeling desperate for quality on Smiley
Logged

I provide a cheap, quick painting service to get you table top quality figures ready to roll - www.facebook.com/jtppainting
Zippee
Lieutenant Colonel
*
Posts: 786



WWW
« Reply #14 on: 29 June 2017, 05:36:17 PM »

If using a wash as "heavy" as Army Painter (e.g. their own stain or any of the various "magic" or B&Q-tastic replacements) I'd go with white undercoat and a very bright version of the base colour!

I've done a few units like that and it works - specifically some LoA range cuirassiers and grenadiers, as "quick paint" tests. They're not amazing, but they were quick and acceptable. I can see it being exceptionally easy to bugger up and end up with dark blobs, mind, so I'm not sure it's something I'd be very comfortable for other peoples figures or anything I was really feeling desperate for quality on Smiley

Agreed the Army Painter style shades are too dense for 10mm - too dense for 15mm IMO as well.

You need a fine light wash - GW Badab/Devlan and replacements worked well as does CdA Black (although the brown is too ruddy for my tastes). I've had limited success with Vallejo but it is a bit sticky and has a tendency to gloop up and pool badly.
Logged

Pages: [1] 2 Go Up Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!