Faces in 10mm

Started by urbancohort, 14 April 2017, 07:17:01 PM

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urbancohort

Anybody out in Pendraken land got any advice on painting faces please? All info gratefully received!

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clibinarium

This is how I do it, though it may be more involved than you want, but it can be simplified;


Start by blocking in all the flesh with Foundry Spearshaft. Granted, you could use the Foundry Flesh Shade, but it's a bit too subtle at this scale, indeed I use the Spearshaft colour regardless of scale (figure 9).



Use Foundry Flesh Light to paint in the details of the face, notice the mid shades are not used as three colours are not needed on small figures and the contrasts should not be subtle. I've shown the stages of this on the hatmen in figure 10, progressing left to right. The brow is done with a dot between the eyebrows and two lines to represent the brows. If you angle these downward slightly, it can give the soldier a frowning, serious look, which I think marching men should have. The nose and cheekbones are done the same way, though the nose should be more of a downward stroke. The mouth can be a flattened circle, much like clown makeup. Finally the jowls can be filled in, but try to keep the cheekbones and the mouth separate. Hands can be done with a solid area to represent the backs and palms, and two rows of four dots or strokes to represent the figures. Alternately, just use four long strokes for the fingers.



This does take time, but it's not complicated, and I feel it really brings the figures to life. You can of course tweak it to your own liking; for instance a single line for the brow works as well. If any of the lines or dots aren't perfect don't worry too much, I usually just move on. Once the flesh is done the figures are practically finished (figure 11)


From a guide to painting AWI I did a while back.

http://anothersuchvictory.blogspot.co.uk/2009/05/lobsters-how-to-paint-10mm-redcoats.html

Ithoriel

Personally, I paint the face a lighter shade of the intended final colour. Wash it with black or dark brown ink. A stripe of the original colour down the nose, a swipe across each cheekbone and maybe a dot on the chin and I'm done.

Quick'n'dirty but it works for me.
There are 100 types of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who can work from incomplete data

jimduncanuk

Where you bin Mike?

Haven't seen a post from for a few days...
My Ego forbids a signature.

urbancohort

Quote from: clibinarium on 14 April 2017, 07:43:12 PM
This is how I do it, though it may be more involved than you want, but it can be simplified;


Start by blocking in all the flesh with Foundry Spearshaft. Granted, you could use the Foundry Flesh Shade, but it's a bit too subtle at this scale, indeed I use the Spearshaft colour regardless of scale (figure 9).



Use Foundry Flesh Light to paint in the details of the face, notice the mid shades are not used as three colours are not needed on small figures and the contrasts should not be subtle. I've shown the stages of this on the hatmen in figure 10, progressing left to right. The brow is done with a dot between the eyebrows and two lines to represent the brows. If you angle these downward slightly, it can give the soldier a frowning, serious look, which I think marching men should have. The nose and cheekbones are done the same way, though the nose should be more of a downward stroke. The mouth can be a flattened circle, much like clown makeup. Finally the jowls can be filled in, but try to keep the cheekbones and the mouth separate. Hands can be done with a solid area to represent the backs and palms, and two rows of four dots or strokes to represent the figures. Alternately, just use four long strokes for the fingers.



This does take time, but it's not complicated, and I feel it really brings the figures to life. You can of course tweak it to your own liking; for instance a single line for the brow works as well. If any of the lines or dots aren't perfect don't worry too much, I usually just move on. Once the flesh is done the figures are practically finished (figure 11)


From a guide to painting AWI I did a while back.

http://anothersuchvictory.blogspot.co.uk/2009/05/lobsters-how-to-paint-10mm-redcoats.html
Thanks for that tutorial! That was truly inspirational, but I think your quality of work is something I can't replicate. Nonetheless, I shall be saving this link with many, many thanks.
Graham

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urbancohort

Quote from: Ithoriel on 14 April 2017, 07:47:25 PM
Personally, I paint the face a lighter shade of the intended final colour. Wash it with black or dark brown ink. A stripe of the original colour down the nose, a swipe across each cheekbone and maybe a dot on the chin and I'm done.

Quick'n'dirty but it works for me.
I have used this technique after a fashion. How do you stop the wash running? Also, do you dilute the wash first please? Thank you for posting.

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jimduncanuk

I block paint all my 10mm figures, no shading.

For light coloured uniforms I wash the figure in a 1:1 wash of water/soft tone ink.

For dark coloured uniforms I wash the figure in a 1:1 wash of water/dark tone ink.

It works for me.
My Ego forbids a signature.

Steve J

I just block paint the faces with a flesh coloured paint and then (normally) apply a Devlin Mud wash over the whole figure. Once on the table you barely notice any lack of highlighting etc, well with my eyes that's the case :D

Ithoriel

I tend to use hobby or artists acrylic inks and just dot a blob of ink on the face - unless, like Steve, I'm planning a wash over the whole figure.

I don't usually bother diluting it. If I want a "thinner" wash I tend to use a lighter shade of ink.
There are 100 types of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who can work from incomplete data

Leman

I block paint the face dark brown then paint flesh in 5 strokes: across the forehead, down the nose, down the cheeks, a dab to the chin. If the ears show I give them a dab as well. This is the only time I use two colours on a 10mm figure, other than the occasional bit of dry brushing. Incidentally I have abandoned the idea of undercoating in black, except for armour, as I can't make out any detail. Consequently I hand prime in white, block paint, apart from the face, hand apply acrylic satin varnish then use magic wash to apply a little shading. Looks ok on the table.
The artist formerly known as Dour Puritan!

urbancohort

Leman: what is 'magic wash' please?

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urbancohort

I don't usually bother diluting it. If I want a "thinner" wash I tend to use a lighter shade of ink.
[/quote]

What inks do you use, please?

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Leman

Quote from: urbancohort on 15 April 2017, 10:03:43 AM
Leman: what is 'magic wash' please?

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Go to www.fat-wally.com

Click on Painting Service and it will give you his recipe for magic wash. He is a good painter, but all his examples are 15mm.
The artist formerly known as Dour Puritan!

Ithoriel

Quote from: urbancohort on 15 April 2017, 10:04:23 AM

What inks do you use, please?

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I currently have a mix of Vallejo, Army Painter, Games Workshop, Windsor & Newton, Miniature Paints, Daler-Rowney and AV inks! I'm as see-it-want-it-buy-it with paints and inks as with wargames figures :)
There are 100 types of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who can work from incomplete data

Subedai

As I use a black undercoat I just use the same 5 strokes method as Leman. I can also recommend the Magic Wash. I use it with both black and dark brown.

MickS
Blog is at
http://thewordsofsubedai.blogspot.co.uk/

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