Making hills out of polystyrene question.

[Westmarcher]

In the past, when some electrical item was purchased, I have invariably found myself unable to discard the polystyrene packaging without wondering if I can use it to make some kind of terrain item, usually a hill. Unfortunately, it is many years since I've actually acted on this impulse and when I did, I recall that my first attempt to glue two pieces together to form a layered hill did not go well because the glue I used was the wrong type and the polystyrene melted! 

So, the question to the forum is, what's the best adhesive for sticking polystyrene together? I have three square blocks roughly 20 cm x 20cm x 1 cm thick and I fancy gluing two together for the bottom layer of the hill but I wish to leave the third piece 'loose' (to give me the options of a higher hill or extend the ridge). Also, I don't have any plastic card, just ordinary card.   

[Techno]

Can't swear I'm right, Westie....But from memory, PVA was the adhesive to use.

Cheers - Phil.

[Bodvoc]

PVA, allow plenty of time for bits to dry before doing further work. Wood glue strength PVA is the best, the cheap PVA you get in pound shops is only really aimed at gluing paper and card together.
Have fun and maybe show us the results :)7

[jimduncanuk]

Ditch the polystyrene packaging Westie.

Real wargamers use styrofoam (blue or pink).

PVA is still the best for attachment.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Styrofoam-Modelling-Foam-FREE-POSTAGE-TO-UK-MAINLAND-CHEAPEST-ON-EBAY-/252703986554?hash=item3ad654d37a:g:N8UAAOSw0HVWAaGy

[Norm]

PVA

and NOTHING with a solvent in it (as this eats the polystyrene) - so this also means don't spray the completed hills will car spray type stuff - use a water based paint like a cheap emulsion.

[Roy]

I used PVA, then skimmed a light coat of plaster filler over the polystyrene to give it a bit more impact absorption.

[Orcs]

I used PVA, then skimmed a light coat of plaster filler over the polystyrene to give it a bit more impact absorption.

It also helps if you make up the filler using PVA .

[Luddite]

Good quality wood PVA and lots of it. 

Water bases paint. 

More PVA.

[Sandinista]

I used PVA and then covered the hill in papier-mâché for added strength

Cheers
Ian

[lowlylowlycook]

I don't have a huge amount of experience but I remember there being some evidence that when gluing large pieces of foam together PVA wouldn't dry in a reasonable amount of time. 

Recently I've been experimenting with some scraps of insulation foam that I got for Christmas and I've used a hot glue gun and some filler/spackle.    I've also experimented with some textured spray paint that doesn't eat foam. 

[Womble67]

My guide for Making Hills & Mountains hope it helps.

Take care

Andy

[Subedai]

PVA all the way. I always put flat, weighty things on top so that the glue is forced into the two layers creating a stronger bond. Once dry I use strips of cheap masking tape -in a papier-mâché style but without the waiting time- to make the hill surface and then cover with a layer of PVA and sand for texture before painting.

MickS

[Westmarcher]

What a great forum this is. Thank you one and all. Your responses have exceeded all of my expectations.   

My objective was simply to join two pieces of polystyrene together at minimum cost and effort - when it comes to terrain, I'm one of the "throw a felt cloth over some bumps" brigade - so, on reflection, the subject heading could have been worded differently.   

So, on the one hand, "sorry," but on the other, "brilliant!" - what a good resource to refer to in future. PVA it is then and whatever else I can scrounge from around the house to follow up on your ideas! Cheers!

[Roy]

Oh yes, I forgot to mention cocktail sticks.

Put one piece of polystyrene on top of the other, pierce both with a couple of cocktail sticks. Paint hills green, sticks brown. Finish by forcing some clump foliage onto the exposed cocktail stick tops, now pretend they're trees. Repeat many times for a wooded hill.

- Hmm, this started off as a P' - take comment, but it actually sounds quite cost-effective.