d_guy,S

Started by d_Guy, 06 December 2016, 03:39:58 PM

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DFlynSqrl

Sounds like a incredible amount of patience to be doing all those heads and weapon swaps.  They look sharp!

FierceKitty

I don't drink coffee to wake up. I wake up to drink coffee.

Ithoriel

Quote from: FierceKitty on 07 December 2016, 05:30:08 AM
Don't stop!

Should that read:

Don't! Stop!

Impressive (if slightly bonkers) amount of conversion work.
There are 100 types of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who can work from incomplete data

d_Guy

 :)

Only two more regiments to convert - so far averaging about eight conversions per regiment of thirty-two.
A substantial portion of the horse on both sides in the Sedgemoor campaign seems to have worn the old style English three-bar pot helmet.
The LoA range uses the slightly fluted pot helm (they are on the way but have not seen them in person yet). Likely I am NOT going to swap heads from ECW or green stuff out the fluting.

I am contracting out the painting of James' army to a member of this forum - so I can concentrate on the rebels.

Incidently, I do plan to do the Scottish portion of the  government army at Killiecranckie - and they are, apparently all going to need bonnets.
That will be a bunch of work!
Sleep with clean hands ...

clibinarium

Side note on the helmeted cuirassiers, they can work for English horse at Sedgemoor, but they are intended for Imperial and Bavarian heavy horse, which is why the helmets are are slightly different. While they are a little different I would happily use them for all types.

d_Guy

Thanks clibinarian! I believe I will take your advice.

The fine line between,  "don't stop" and "Don't! Stop!", often needs outside intervention to establish.  :)
Sleep with clean hands ...

lowlylowlycook

Quote from: d_Guy on 06 December 2016, 10:37:39 PM
Again - thanks everyone for your kind comments

@Fred
I don't have lots of patience for conversions either - but marginally better at it then the actual painting.
I wanted Monmouth's forces to be as varied as possible so forcing myself to take the extra time.
Yes...Yes...No! Not altogether.  :)

Besides the antihistamines I do this:
1. Usually do a light black wash so I can easily see the details (most of the LoA figures are already very sharp in detail)
2. Immobilize the head and shoulders in a small wad of silly putty stuck to the cutting board. This allows a very precise cut to be made and releases the figure (and head) without residue PLUS the head doesn't fly off into worlds unknown.
3. This might be counter intuitive but I use a half inch xacto chisel blade to make cuts.
4.Immobilize the headless figure in silly putty (standing up this time) then add a very small amount of liquid superglue to the neck.
5.Fit the head. I use my fingers (rather than tweezers). Sometimes the head ends up attached to your fingers - pry off and start over.
6.The critical step - after 1 minute - using a wooden toothpick - work very small amounts of superglue gel into the join and slightly above and below. Let sit overnight.

Have done this on about fifty 10mm figures over the last couple years and have not lost a head - since I started working the gel into the join.
I have tried to use gel only - that is the road to frustration.


Interesting.  I've often had the Head flies off to worlds unknown problem.   I'll have to try embedding things in putty.

Leman

Very good work on  those regiments. I particularly like the red regiment and the way it is based with the small clumps of flowers. I've only tried head swaps once, when I produced some dismounted 1870 French dragoons. It worked well but is incredibly fiddly.l
The artist formerly known as Dour Puritan!

d_Guy

Thanks Leman. Yes it is fiddly - but for some reason it's easier for me than painting the dang things. e.g. When I try painting trim it turns into one of those deals like shortening the legs of a chair - never ending!
Sleep with clean hands ...

Westmarcher

Looking good, DG1.  :-bd

Only ever tried a head swop once in 10mm - not a success  ~X( - but might be tempted to try again using your 'working the gel into the join' method.
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

Techno

Quote from: Westmarcher on 08 December 2016, 10:18:31 AM
Only ever tried a head swop once in 10mm - not a success  ~X( - but might be tempted to try again using your 'working the gel into the join' method.

Westie.....Even we 'professionals'  =O =O =O =O =O find head swaps, a right pain in the posterior.....and we have to pin them so they'll (hopefully) be alright when being squished.
I'm pretty sure Clib does quite a few head swaps......Need to ask him how he does that.

In some cases I've found it quicker to sculpt a whole new head.
It's got easier..the more I've done....But it's definitely NOT one of my favourite jobs, even with the Dremel and a 0.5mm drill bit.....It IS fiddly !

Cheers - Phil

d_Guy

Phil, I seriously doubt that my end product would survive the process of making a mold, but so far survives the process of taking their stands out of the storage box and moving them around on the table.  :)

Also - some of mine occasionally have a slightly lopsided head* - as we say "close 'nuff fer gov'ment work" - would offend a professional, however.  :)



* I make up stories for each - "He' s checking to see if is fly is done up" or "He studying the circling buzzards" or even "He's talking to his friend in the rear rank" - and such like!
Sleep with clean hands ...

d_Guy

After yet another major re-basing of my ECW period stuff I had many drummers and officers left over. This provided an opportunity to replace many of the plastic cubes I had been using with Baroque with less intrusive ones:



Officer/drummer for "Disordered", drummer for "Reacted" and a  rock pile for "First Use".
Sleep with clean hands ...

d_Guy

d_guy's Cavalcade of Whimsey

This can be placed in the "Leon and his tireless minions category"
I wanted a more flexible way to build units for Baroque using my existing 1"x 1" stands of figures while also improving their look on the table. I decided to use magnetic move trays were the figures, dice frames, and some scenery elements could be assembled in many combinations. This also gave me the opportunity of moving to a close approximation of the base size ranges suggested in Baroque.

Magnetic film was added to all my figure stands (well over 600 now) and Leon custom cut for me (in inch dimensions) a bunch of MDF bases which also got covered in magnetic film when they arrived. If interested the notes on those procedures are covered here:
https://inredcoatragsattired.com/2016/11/29/another-redo/


The bulk of the new trays are 5" x 1.5" and are used by most foot and horse units.
The example below shows how musket and pike units can be assembled to give a visual representation of historic size:



5" x 2.5" trays are used for "massed" units. The examples below (R to L) are an Irish 1641/42 pike block, Highland clan levies and a large highland warband:


I also got a few 5" x 4.5" trays to use if I ever go back a bit in time and use tercio units. Below are pictured (R to L) an early style tercio, a late style tercio and a large Swiss pike block:


The full blog post is here with more photos and explanations:
https://inredcoatragsattired.com/2016/12/07/using-the-new-magnetic-sabots-with-baroque/
Sleep with clean hands ...

Duke Speedy of Leighton

Very nice ideas there D! 8)
You may refer to me as: Your Grace, Duke Speedy of Leighton.
2016 Pendraken Painting Competion Participation Prize  (Lucky Dip Catagory) Winner