Painting 10mm tanks

[acctingman]

Hello all

First post! 

Going to start painting some 10mm tanks. This is what I was thinking.....

I'm going to prime white (yes, no)?
Base coat
Wash (I've read about applying washes with toothpicks...what's that about)?
Highlight

Couple questions

1) Is there a brand of wash you prefer? Would black acrylic thinned with water work?

2) About the wash. I've read somewhere that people apply their washes (on 10mm) with toothpicks to just the areas of concern. Does this work well or am I better off with the old way?

3) Mud on tracks....how the bloody blazes do you get this effect? Is 10mm still too small for those MIG muds?

Thank you for any tips/suggestions!

[Sandinista]

I prime tanks with a darker colout af the final colour, and apply lighter shades then give it a black wash then a light dry brushing in white.

I have never used toothpicks to apply washes, and just use watered down paint rather than inks.

I use the arms length rule for my 10mm figures, if it looks good at gaming distance then job done 

Cheers
Ian

[Ithoriel]

Firstly, welcome to the forum actingman!

The forum is, in my experience, friendly, helpful, supportive, informative and regularly lunatic ... I like it

I base vehicles and do so before painting. Like Sandanista I undercoat in a dark colour ... black! I paint on basic colours, wash with Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade or a Flesh Wash (which is a dark brown). Then I drybrush highlights before finally painting details. Apply decals, if required, varnish and Robert is your Mother's brother!

I prefer inks to thinned paint for washes - that may just be me though.

Toothpicks - useful for certain terrain projects but I don't use them for painting.

Here's one of mine finished - I leave it to you to decide if the technique works for you but I'm happy with the result.

[paulr]

Welcome to the madhouse forum

I undercoat a light to mid grey then paint, wash (diluted paint) and dry brush as described

The risk with a white undercoat is it showing if you miss a bit.

[Techno]

A very warm welcome to the forum, 'A'.

The forum is, in my experience, friendly, helpful, supportive, informative and regularly lunatic ...

I think Mike has summed things up perfectly !

Cheers - Phil

[petercooman]

Welcome!


I paint my tanks in a basecolour, then wash entirely with a brush, then drybrush baecolour again or basecolour with a little khaki mixed in. then do tracks and such, and after everything is done and before varnishing, i lightly drybrush the track area with vallejo dark earth texture paint. then varnish and done.

[Norm]

I would do all of the above.

I find to scrub a VERY DRY brush over the vehicle as a final job helps to give a weathered look at this scale.

Mud can be made by mixing brown paint with a very small amount of bicarbonate of soda - though at this scale, this is best saved to use not on the vehicle, but rather on any base that you might be thinking of using, at the point that the tracks touch the ground.

A matt varnish helps protect the final job.

I don't glue turrets. These are heavy objects, if one slips out of your hand, you want the turret to fall away rather than suffer gun barrel damage as you hear that painful noise of the model hitting the floor.

[Lord Kermit of Birkenhead]

I drill and fit the radio antenna - undercoat black, paint the base colour, add cammo, paint the tracks then dry brush with banana yellow. Then add any decals and varnish. Seems to work on all scales.

IanS

PS - welcome