Anyone know about ball bearings?

[clibinarium]

On the Resin decals; I doubt they'd survive vulcanization, but I am impressed that they exist at all, its a very clever idea.
The rivet maker; could potentially be useful, but it has the same limitations as punching them by hand as they won't sit above the punched surface. I can see it being useful for other applications though.
The bearings on alibaba; actually came across those the other day, but the quantity and the postage would be overkill for something I just want to try out.
I think the solder balls are the best bet; they come in tiny sizes, large amounts and are cheap. I just need to check if they are likely to stay solid during vulcanization; I've never used solder in sculpting, but I think other people do and its stable? I might check with Leon and Dave.

Cheers for all the suggestions.

[Techno]

I've never had a problem with any soldered parts of a 'master' coming apart whilst in a press, Clib.

From what I understand, the solder that I occasionally use has a melting point of around 188 degrees C.
I don't know what temp the rubber gets up to in a press during the process...but I doubt that it's anywhere as high as 188C.

Having said that......The soldered parts have always been 'protected' by a layer of putty to hide the join.

Dave should certainly be able to advise, I'm sure.

Not absolutely certain what would happen with tiny bits of solder on the surface of a model.

Cheers - Phil

[clibinarium]

Yeah Phil, I've had exactly the same thoughts; it ought to be OK, but there's a lingering doubt in my head.

[Techno]

I'm 95% certain it would be OK, Clib.......BUT.......It would be more than 'tragic' if it didn't, for the amount of work involved.

How soon do you need to know ?
I was going to suggest I send Dave the smallest 'blob' of solder I can 'manufacture', and see what happens to that in the Vulcanising Press, if that's any help ?
Cheers - Phil

[Ace of Spades]

Just a thought here... How about cracking open some shotgun shells? The shot comes in different sizes and (at least in the Netherlands) they are no longer allowed to contain any lead but have to be iron...
Maybe if you know any hunters you could ask them?

Cheers,
Rob

[Techno]

That's a damn good idea, Rob.

I know of one member of the forum who might be able to help (or advise) on that score.
Cheers - Phil

[Aksu]

It seems the smallest shotgun pellet diameter is 1.27 mm, probably a bit too large for this.
Cheers,
Aksu

[Aksu]

This Chinese ebay seller offers free postage. 0.8 mm, 5 quid for 50 bearings.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50pcs-Si3N4-Ceramic-Silicon-Nitride-Si3N4-Bearing-Balls-GRADE-5-G5-0-8-18-256mm-/291465530871?var=&hash=item43dcb30df7:m:m5dywxQUVdEqprdL9L-VC9A
Cheers,
Aksu

[Techno]

It seems the smallest shotgun pellet diameter is 1.27 mm, probably a bit too large for this. Cheers, Aksu

There's apparently something called 'dust' that might be a smaller diameter ? 
How consistent the size would be, is another matter , though.
I'll e'mail Mr 'X'.......Or ask one of the local farmers.

Another damn good find, just above, Aksu. 

We're giving Clib a few options......I hope !

Cheers - Phil

[Ace of Spades]

That's a damn good idea, Rob.

We aim to please!

Cheers,
Rob

[Techno]

That's 'cos our gang is the best ! 
Cheers - Phil

[Leon]

The vulcaniser runs at 150 degrees for a regular mould, but we can knock that down a bit if necessary.

[Lord Kermit of Birkenhead]

Would a lower temp reduce definition ?

[Leon]

Would a lower temp reduce definition ?

Nope, you just need to tweak the duration and pressure involved, as well as the silicon in some cases.

[John Cook]

Have you thought about using lead shot.  Go to http://www.theleadweightcompany.co.uk/lead-shot-ballast.html.  The smallest is 0.3mm.