6mm painting

[toxicpixie]

Jack, that's pretty much what I do, just a schwip of highlight or a wash to shade and define and it's done...

[paulr]

Thanks Paul; they're fantastic 

Pixie,  I think you've about summed it up for me; they are 6mm.  I'm not going to be painting eyebrows 

Thanks 

Amazing what a wash and dry brush will do

I think the key is to pick a few items and make sure there is plenty of contrast

[toxicpixie]

When I first picked up some 6mm infantry back in the days of yore, I was baffled and tried to paint them like a "normal" scale figure. Needless to say, they never got sorted. Couple years later a mate was puzzled as to why I found them difficult, so I explained and he said base colour > dab flesh for face/hands > stripe of brown or metal or black on weapon > dab helmet/backpack, done.

My jaw dropped

Tehcniques advanced (and simplified, even!) a little since, but yeah. No painting eyebrows for sure

[getagrip]

When I first picked up some 6mm infantry back in the days of yore, I was baffled and tried to paint them like a "normal" scale figure. Needless to say, they never got sorted. Couple years later a mate was puzzled as to why I found them difficult, so I explained and he said base colour > dab flesh for face/hands > stripe of brown or metal or black on weapon > dab helmet/backpack, done.

My jaw dropped

Tehcniques advanced (and simplified, even!) a little since, but yeah. No painting eyebrows for sure

I'm going to splosh some colour around this weekend and see what happens.

[Hertsblue]

May I extend this discussion to basing? Having finished painting my first 6mm figures I applied Baccus basing material liberally to the bases using my old faithful PVA adhesive. Having left it for an hour or so to dry I decided the time was ripe to go to the next stage and give the bases their brown wash. To my surprise, the wash lifted the material off the bases, leaving them pretty well bald. A quick test revealed that the PVA had entirely failed to hold the basing material on any of the bases.

So, what is the best adhesive to hold this stuff? The little tutorial on basing seems to be missing from the Baccus website at the moment. Any ideas?   

[getagrip]

Good point.

I'd also be interested to see what people use as flock / grit etc.

Will the stuff I use for 10mm be okay?

[Fenton]

Good point.

I'd also be interested to see what people use as flock / grit etc.

Will the stuff I use for 10mm be okay?

I use the same stuff...Cant remember where I got it but its quite small

[Ithoriel]

I apply B&Q flexible filler, let it set, paint it brown (shade varies), coat with thinned down evostick resin wood glue, dredge with sand, when dry flood sand with brown wash, allow to dry, drybrush with a couple of shades of brown/ beige depending on where in the world the figures are supposed to be, paint areas with wood glue, dredge with green flock, allow to dry, flood flock with green ink, allow to dry, drybrush "grass" with light green/ yellow/ beige as appropriate.

There may be a reason I take so long to get units finished    

[getagrip]

I apply B&Q flexible filler, let it set, paint it brown (shade varies), coat with thinned down evostick resin wood glue, dredge with sand, when dry flood sand with brown wash, allow to dry, drybrush with a couple of shades of brown/ beige depending on where in the world the figures are supposed to be, paint areas with wood glue, dredge with green flock, allow to dry, flood flock with green ink, allow to dry, drybrush "grass" with light green/ yellow/ beige as appropriate.

Woah!

I was rather hoping to deploy these bad boys before I retire

There may be a reason I take so long to get units finished    

Yeah, I think there may be a link

[paulr]

Good point.

I'd also be interested to see what people use as flock / grit etc.

Will the stuff I use for 10mm be okay?

It should be unless you are going for a desert look 

As I found with my 1917 project grain size is very important if you are modelling sandy desert

[Duke Speedy of Leighton]

Silver sand mixed with red sand.
50/50 days atelier pva.
Leave to dry at least 24 hours.
Ink.
Leave 24 hours.
Base coat, dry brush.
Water/PVA mix.
Leave to dry.
Flock and clumps.
Leave to dry
Vanish

Basically basing can take longer than painting troops!

[Westmarcher]

So, what is the best adhesive to hold this stuff? The little tutorial on basing seems to be missing from the Baccus website at the moment. Any ideas?   

Yeah. Instructions aren't clear about timescales. My first attempt at the Baccus system had similar results but I now have no problems.

Using a slightly watered down mix of PVA (roughly 2 of PVA, 1 of water but never more than 50/50), I sprinkle the sand on the base, turn the base upside down, give it a gentle tap or two and leave it, usually overnight.

When I apply the ink wash, I dip the brush in the pot to get a generous helping and dab it on, letting it run freely through the sand. I use different size brushes depending on the area to be covered (large for wide areas, thin for getting between figures, etc.).

After leaving it overnight, I then dry brush the base as directed and apply the PVA/water mix again. I then dump a load of static grass on the base, turn the base upside down, give it a couple of taps with my finger, smooth the edges with my finger and again leave overnight. Next day, I get our old hoover out (!) and using the thin nozzle attachment, (very carefully) vacuum off the loose static grass (both this and the upside tapping of the base also helps the grass to stand up).  Works fine that way. Next lot of PVA was bought in a DIY shop. I also used some old Humbrol varnish once at the basing material stage and that worked too.

[Hertsblue]

OK, two things since my last post:

1. I've found the Baccus basing tutorial here:

https://www.baccus6mm.com/includes/howto/base6mm.php


2. I've had another go with the Baccus basing material using a different high-tack PVA. This time - success! When sprinkling on the basing material, which is very light and fine, make sure it's embedded well into the PVA. Leave it to dry for an hour or two, then use Westmarcher's technique of dabbing on the base-coat. And Robert's your mother's brother! The Baccus three-shade drybrushing works well, but normal static grass flock is too long for these little fellows and I shall be going over to the made-for-the-job stuff in the near future.   

[getagrip]

That's really useful Herts

[Leman]

I have used the Baccus basing system successfully for a long time now, except my initial wash is yellow ochre (dab it on) then a wash of brown magic wash (the floor polish, water, ink mix) before doing the three layer dry brush. I find this gives a slightly lighter finish which makes the figures stand out better.