Technique - Drybrush or wash

Started by Sean Clark, 09 August 2010, 10:31:41 AM

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Sean Clark

It seems to me there are two methods in the world for painting toy soldiers (although there can be some overlap).

Drybrushing

This covers layering too, basically working up from a black or other dark undercoat and adding layers of successively lighter colours. Using drybrushing alone can be very very quick with one or two layers but can sometimes look 'chalky'.

Washing

Usually starting from a lighter undercoat, with washes used for shading. This has evolved recently with various dip methods including Army Painter. The Games Workshop (EE) washes released a couple of years ago, in particular Devlan Mud, some would say are revolutionary.

So as a relative newcomer to 10mm, what is the consensus of you grognards for 10 mm. I come from painting 15mm for a few years using army painter dip. I prefer lighter colours on my figures for them to stand out a bit more. I am thinking of going the devlan mud route over a base coat and one highlight on top of this. Army painter I imagine is too thick for 10mm.

As a caveat I am a gamer not a painter, therefore it is more important to get figures on the table rather than be too concerned about minute detail. When speaking to a well known hobby figure at Partizan some years ago I was given two tips.

1. Paint 1000 figures. Your 1001st figure should look ok.

2. Faces and bases!

Sean
God's Own Scale podcast
https://godsownscale6mm.podbean.com/

Jagger

The Games Workshop (EE) washes released a couple of years ago, in particular Devlan Mud, some would say are revolutionary.

Revolutionary might be a bit of an exxageration.  It has its uses from time to time, IMO.

DanJ

The main point of 10mm figs for me is the mass effect and I use both washes and dry brushing.

For my WW1 armies I prime with white, add the overall uniform colour, add flesh, weapon and webbing details then a good wash with the GV Mud wash, sometimes watered down a bit.

When it's all dry I base them up then dry brush the bases and use a bit of dry brushing with the same colour to highlight the figures and suggest local mud and dust.

For my 7YW french I'm just getting into the swing of them but at the moment I'm priming with white, wshing with GW Black wash then dry brushing with white and adding the other colours.

Overall I'd say try a few experiments until you find a result you like from a method you can keep using for hundreds of figures.

NTM

I pretty much use the method you are proposing.

Prime grey.
Block paint main colours
Wash with thinned black paint
Drybrush highlights on main colours
Pick out details in solid colours
Varnish

Used this for 10mm for a number of years now and also use it for 15mm now which really sped things up there.

nikharwood

Depends on period / army / 'look' etc...but generally I'll use whatever method / trickery / shortcut necessary that fits the job  8)

I'll also experiment a bit too...I can be a bit of a mad scientist at times  ;)

I also tend to fast-paint quite a bit, so my 10mm technique reflects that - as well as the fact that these things are most usually seen at a distance of 3-4 feet.

Some of my basic techniques are linked from here (and are downloadable in PDF form): http://nikharwood.pbworks.com/10mm+Painting+

Oh - and I've heard Devlan Wash referred to as "God-wash"...it's good, but is best thinned a bit for 10mm I think. It's also stupidly expensive for what it is and I think you're better off making your own "Magic Wash" (details here: http://nikharwood.pbworks.com/Standard+technique ) - you can make several for different shades / depth of course.

Sean Clark

Thanks for that Nik.

Do you know if Johnsons Klear is available. I've never looked but across other forums, people report it is difficult to get hold of.
God's Own Scale podcast
https://godsownscale6mm.podbean.com/

nikharwood

Tesco's is your friend...been getting it from there for, what, 10+ years?

arabianknight

I picked up a bottle quick recently at my local ASDA for what it's worth.